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Howdy folks, With 2019, LSP's 20th anniversary, and our celebratory Multi-engine Group Build all mere days away, I thought it time to announce another of our celebratory initiatives for the year ahead. For the duration of our 20th year, we'll be holding a series monthly raffles, with prizes donated by a range of vendors and sponsors. To be eligible for the raffle for any given month, you simply need to have started a build in the Works in Progress forum that month. Simples! Note that placeholder threads started solely for the purposes of claiming eligibility for a prize will most likely be excluded. We're looking for active builds here! Think of this as a way for us to extend the prize-giving beyond the Group Build, and offer similar rewards to those members who feel the GB is not for them. I haven't decided yet whether to announce the prizes in advance, or keep them up our sleeves as surprises. For now, all I'll say is that there will be a single prize each month, drawn from a range of kits and aftermarket products from many of our generous vendors and sponsors: Barracuda Studios RB Productions MDC Archer Fine Transfers Silver Wings Kitlinx/PCM Kinetic LSP We may have further prize announcements as the year progresses, and would like to thank the companies listed above for their amazing support. Also, stay tuned for more 20th anniversary announcements as they become finalised! Kev

Hi all, I started another Mustang, now all opened. P-51D-5-NA Maj. George E.Preddy Jr.1/32 Tamiya EagleCals decals set for Preddy HGW wet transfers & seat belts Barracuda cockpit, battery, wheels, pilot seat, cockpit decals. Colours MRP, Gunze, Alclad II. Eduard PE set - exterior, Look instrument panel.

My Revell Fw 190A-8 added with Brissin resin and eduard's PE most of the marking are painted on the heart and nose art are from Eaglescals

If you get the Detolf, you can install some wire clamps on the vertical supports which will allow you to double the number of shelves. I did this with the one I have and will be doing it on the new one as well.

I am a bit disappointed in one of the new Lancasters. Some serious shape issues, decals are thick and sticky, one rivet is missing from the port wing, no cockpit or turret details.

Great subjects so far. I'm planning to join the GB but I have to much to choose from. I have a large amount of twin engines in the stash: - Ju88 A1 or A4 - He 111 H6 - Me 262 A or B - Horton 229 (already past 25%) - He 219 - Ta 154 - Bf 110 (G2 conversion) - Fw 189 - Ar 234 - He 129 (GMF version, not going to build that one with the upcoming ZM kit) - P61 But I do want to do something bigger. What about three, four or even six engines? I'd like some opinions.... - What about a He111 H22? Or in other words a Heinkel 111 with a V1 buzz bomb under the wing. Three engines.... If I'm going to build that I'm using Profimodeller's conversion and a Special Hobby V1 kit. - Or just build the B17G from HKM. Four engines. I really like the paint scheme from the aircraft 'Bit o lace': - Or B17G 339119 with two JB-2 Loon cruise missiles (i could convert the Special Hobby V1 for that purpose). Six engines! What to choose? Wouter

Wow did my wife hit this one out of the park!! She said now I can bring my models up from the basement lol

Hi All, I hope everyone has had a brilliant Xmas. Over the holiday i found time to finish the construction of the Typhoon, Ive got to say bringing the major fuselage and wing components together was a major challenge and came together gradually as i stitched it together over several days using various forms of persuasion! All ready for paint now, but as you might notice in the last pic and maybe under the influence of too much mulled wine I've decided to briefly stop this build and start my car door typhoon! It seemed to make sense as i can use all of what i have learned with this one to hopefully make quick progress and will complete this one all closed up and have some plans for which markings to do which will hopefully contrast nicely with my bubble top! Thank you for all of the kind comments about my work, its a real pleasure to be involved with this forum. Wishing everyone a happy and healthy 2019! Cheers Matt

Getting back from my Christmas trip yesterday evening, this morning I managed to fire up my digital camera and after playing with lighting for a while, was finally ready to take some glamour shots of my finished Chinook. Its final resting place will be in a perspex display case with these patches I received from LSP member and Brahmans Chinook crew member in Afganistan, Craig Hartnett. Craig was an invaluable help on this build, providing photos and advice throughout. Without further adieu, CH-47D A15-104 Crux Australis "Dusty Blonde" Kit: Trumpeter 1/35 CH-47D Aftermarket: Eduard's Big ED set for the CH-47D Paint: Model Master and Tamiya Custom: Scratchbuilt CSAR hoist and NavSat Comms antenna.

My wife and I are going to Ikea after the holiday to buy me a display case. Now that I am retired some models are nearing the finish line. I get to keep it upstairs to. Rick

Carl- I just added bits of styrene, wire and lead foil for the belts and buckles. ( Pssst, it's all gizmolgy and made up ) You do get a IP decal and a little pilot in the kit but I didn't like either of them. I thought you'd need something in there as that's a pretty big and clears canopy. I finished up last night, Here are the beauty pics. If you want a quick bit of fun you cannot go too wrong with these little kits, A better modeller than me could really make these little gems shine. I had a quick blast and enjoyed myself immensely I look forward to the TF-104 and the kits in the Freedom range. Thanks for looking in.

everything is painted and weathered and ready for final assembly side window highlighted with dark wash I was trying to depict repairs painted over gun barrels mounted finished exhausts engines ready exhaust soot creating surface ready MRP clear Smoke applied as a base layer exhaust glued in place and layer of MRP Exhaust soot applied thanks for looking jan

It's helpful to think of RAF flying wires as 'blades' (for cutting through the air) rather than 'wires', which tends to suggest round section twisted wire rope. Although the latter is certainly commonly used for control cables and some bracing applications. RAF flying wires can be confusing to map on an airframe because from head on to the airstream they look as thin as a twisted wire cable, but from the side show their longer airfoil section. Different airfoil sections can also be in use on the same airframe. The catalogue picture below illustrates a variety of them with various thicknesses and terminations . The two views below show the different thicknesses presented by the inter-strut bracing and aileron connectors on a Gladiator depending on the viewer's perspective.

I think those that are worried about things like ejector pins are missing out and maybe always having everything totally correct and present before the glue comes out are missing out on a wealth of modelling that they might enjoy even more if they perhaps dipped their toe in to 'upskilling' their modelling. I think I started truly scratch building when I was 14 and that was constructing locomotives [ working ] from Plasticard and making my own drawings becuse what I was interested in there wasn't a kit for. Don't be scared of the scalpel and having to do things twice you will improve with time, I did and you will be proud of making something that is not just sticking things together but involves some ingenuity as well and then building a kit won't be so daunting. trust me. Graham

Looks like the Revell HMA.8 version of the Lynx has finally been released. It’s been five years since their last boxing of the kit as the HAS.3, and long enough that the actual aircraft has gone out of service, but better late than never. Interestingly, the early boxings of the first release, the German Mk.88A, actually included a sprue with many HMA.8 parts, including the IP, Sea Owl turret, IRCM jammer, and the cabin rescue hoist (which could be used on the Mk.88A too). There were some parts missing in the Mk.88A kit that prevented you from just building a HMA.8 out of the box, though. Link to kit Link to instructions

Awesome! Coincidentally, my wife today said I should get a display cabinet for my models so I wonder if there's something in the water... Carl

I will start with the fact that it is difficult to combine cheap and good. I will try to offer you really good models one more expensive the second cheaper. The first one is more expensive, but very good 1:48 scale model, great detail and very good fitting. I mean the entire family MiG-29 from GWH version is your choice. The second option is cheaper but also a great model from Kinetic Su-33. The effect you get is very good and it's straight from the box. Important, you will not need a bucket of putty. Ready model

afternoon ladies Many thanks Jay - I think it still needs a bit of fettling but it is better than the wonky version there before - I too could not find the loft drawing David Glen used on his 1/5 scale one so I used the one you mention and a whole load of photo's I have a cunning plan for that actually - I have some 3D printed exhausts on the way from model monkey, have scaled the structure inside the cowlings from drawings and for the exterior panels (that define the aperture shape) I will likely create etched panels for the skins - two reasons - 1) they will be factory spec in terms of outline & 2) they will be a different tone to the rest of the panels which seems common on P51's, I guess they used a different metal / thickness on the real one... so, the Xmas break meant some time at the bench and I am powering on with big structural stuff - it makes a nice change from all the tiny details in the cockpit.. ..first up, I traced the gear doors from drawings to create a template, cut thisfrom card and used it to create the area to cut out for the main gear bays - this whole process took a day before I was happy with the position as it was at variance with the outline HpH had on the surface so I questioned what I was seeing and doing repeatedly... ..you can see the template and the two big holes below.. ..then it was time to add leg mounts - I did what I did for the Spitfire by braze soldering some brass tube onto brass plates to act as spigots to add lathe turned gear later on.. ..these were then epoxied into place.. the perspective makes them look a bit out, but even if they are, they will be cut down to stubs just to act as positioning for the MLG later ..for the roof of the well, I cut out some black card blanks that fitted, and matched these to drawings of all the stringer & rib positions so I could scribe what goes where onto litho to actually line them.. ,,before I could fix the roof position I had to check something... ..in the cockpit, the floor where the control stick goes is actually the top of the wing, so I had to make sure the cockpit pod with the floor did not foul the bay roof. To do this I had to get the pod into the fuselage and into position... I had never done this before, so it could all have gone horribly wrong... ..thankfully and a few fist pumps later it all fitted fine... it's tight, but it fits ...now I could fix the gear bay roof and you can see how the scribed lines will help position all the structure to go in here (and there is tons of stuff...) ..will probably add the walls then look at other big bits like stabilisers and the air scoop under the wing.. feels good to have some wind in the sails and who knows, I may make Telford next year TTFN Peter

No, no, no! They added little round tabs to the outside of the parts for the pins to hit, which you snip the tiny attachments off before assembly. No pin marks to remove.

Next update: Used the Dremel which made incredibly fast work of the overlap, holy cow. Need to really watch using that! This was before a little more fine-tuning and to get the gaps to close up some more. Still used some filler, but much better than this looks here. One down side is that I THOUGHT I had sealed the nose and filled it with the liquid gravity. But I must have missed something as the cockpit shortly filled up with the tiny graphite balls. Ugh. This is how much graphite poured out, even with some still glued into the nose: Oh well, will drill a hole via the nose gear well and refill that way (and reglue!). Here are some of the pics - I used two shades of Model Master Acryl over the Dull Aluminum base: Dark Green and Drab Green. The Olive Drab just did not look like the photos I saw. Using the two greens (over the Dull Aluminum) I'm hoping gives me more of a varied and faded finish. Here is the base dull aluminum, with a few spots of USAF Light Gray sprayed in a few random blotches: And the Dark Green added: and with the green drab applied but difficult to see the varied nature of the paint. The wing root gaps are not great, but look worse in the pictures than they appear. The dark splotch on the left wing is the gloss coat to get ready for the wing marking: Ditto on the fuselage and rudder - getting ready for the decals (tomorrow): Shame the camera is not picking up the tonal variation of the paint. Here is another attempt: Hopefully decals tomorrow!

Nice camo job! Mine arrived just before Christmas and my wife was home at the time. She was suitably impressed until she saw the wingspan.

Thank you all for the positive comments! I appreciate all of the support and hope to get this build on track now that my modeling mojo has returned. I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas! I pulled out the 262 build the other day and had a look to remind myself where I was at. The fuselage is all buttoned up as are the wings with the engine nacelles attached. The landing gear legs have been painted. I noticed that that the oleo for the nose gear had lost its shine. I had elected to use the metal nose leg that Trumpeter had supplied. I didn't know how to address the eventual tarnishing of the metal so I decided to use the kit plastic nose gear, of which Trumpeter supplies two. I first cut off the oleo scissors. There is a considerable amount of weight in the nose to prevent tail-sitting so I wanted to reinforce the nose gear with a long brass tube shaft. Using the completed nose gear as a guide, I re-did the brake line attachments. The brake line can be threaded on later so I'll remove it so that I can paint the nose gear. One of the things that was holding me up on this build was the addition of the small control rods in the wheel bay. The instructions from the Aires resin set is vague at best so I kept ignoring the placement of those rods. I hunkered down and got them in finally. I guess I'm ready to attach the wings to the fuselage. The fit is not the best here so I'll have to be careful to ensure that I have a good cement bond all the way around. Here is a test fit showing the view into the wheel wells.

thanx all for the continuing support the vertical tail is now fixed to the fuselage, i am still working on the control surfaces the rear radome is a modified resin corsair part from Harold 73 by karl holubar, auf Flickr 74 by karl holubar, auf Flickr