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  1. Spruebrothers lightning deals for $79.99.
  2. Well done. The whole package of helicopter and figures looks very impressive. If I may note, there appears to be an alignment issue in the tail rotor blades. It could just be a trick of the angles of photography though.
  3. Very nice build. Love the subject choice too. Not often seen. Well done.
  4. I'll go against the trend and say that while I think the finish looks fine I do think you can find something that looks more authentic. One possibility might be some rough buffing with a dremel tool. The buffing wheel may be able to give you the grain patterns you're after. It's a thought to try on some scrap maybe.
  5. That is outstanding. The way you've mastered contrast in both the painting and photography is phenomenal. That's got to be the best presentation of a model I've seen in a long time. Well done.
  6. Doesn't barracuda do some E-F tires? Would those not work?
  7. Suggestion for a set of 1/32 legacy Hornet landing gear for the Academy kit. G-factor seems to be OOP and either way your sets look better.
  8. Hoping someone at MPS or on the forums can help me with this. I just got done painting a 1/32 Korean war Sabre. Mission Models 003 Aluminum over their standard black primer with Mission Models yellow for the ID bands. It looked pretty good though the Aluminum gave me fits and took three tries to get right. Any attempt at wet-sanding the 003 would result in the paint dissolving and turning into a gooey mees. But I got there. I used Mission Models Dark Aluminum for the gun panel and exhaust and it went down fine. Then I put on the first gloss cote using Alclad II Aqua Gloss. I've used it before with MM paints and it was fine. The entire model except the yellow bands and the Dark Aluminum panels went dead flat. This was kind of cool as it's the type of flat aluminum I want for an in-theater war-weary machine, but not what I want before applying decals. The Dark Aluminum panels and the yellow ID bands came out nice and glossy. One note that I'm nor sure is relevant, the airbrush kept clogging so I sprayed the Aqua gloss at higher-than-normal psi (30). No runs, good gloss on the color panels. Dead flat everywhere else. I figured I must not have had good coverage so I started to spray a second coat. That paint instantly started cracking under the spray. I quickly aborted and waited for it to settle, hoping the cracks would go away. This happened. Only the aileron has the second coat. You can see the paint is cracked and discolored. Also, the yellow ID band appears to have shrunk as the inboard edge has been distorted and the band has SPLIT along the trim tab panel line. What is going on here? I've never seen this before and have no idea why this is happening. I removed the Aqua Gloss from the aileron with water. It took up the 003 aluminum with it but didn't budge the yellow at all (what was left of it). I'm terrified to do anything with the rest of the model. Any help? Matt
  9. Beware the HPH engine though. It is oddly lacking in detail and doesn't really capture the unique look of the R2600 cylinders. In my opinion the best 1/32 R2600 is the one in the Trumpeter TBF/M Avenger kits. I dearly wish Vector would do an R2600 though. Not sure why they haven't.
  10. On wingtips: The wingtip is way too thick. Honestly this was more noticeable to me than the airfoil cross-section issue. As I've been trying to work a fix for the airfoil I'm finding that forcing the wingtips into a narrower shape may be next to impossible due to the way the wings are molded and internal stresses in the plastic; even after stripping out all the internal ribbing. At this point my solution is to slice the wingtips off and 3D print new ones. Alternatively you could do some very careful thinning of both the leading and trailing edges though I fear that in order to get the wingtips thin enough you would need to remove so much material that you would alter the shape of the wing in plan view. Also the kit wingtips have both -J and -D navigation lights molded on. Personally I'm fine with this. I find it much easier to remove the light for the version I don't need then to scratchbuild a light for the version I do need that isn't there. I just the wish the instructions mentioned that the modeler needs to do that. For a B-24H or later delete the lights on the tops and bottoms of the wingtips and just leave the ones on the outer edges.
  11. On props: Props diameter is too small by about 5 scale inches. Thats about 2mm per blade. Doesn't sound like much but it means the props are undersize by about 5%. Prop boss diameter is also undersize by 1mm. This is actually quite a bit more noticeable when comparing to pictures of the real thing. Prop blade shape is off from the hub to about the middle of the blade. The blade is flared much too widely near the hub. The maximum blade width should be at a point near the middle of the blade. In fact, the width of the kit blades at the middle point is dead on right. It's just that the segment between the middle and the Hub is mishappen and too wide. The blades could be filed to shape or hopefully Quickboost will produce some better blades. Prop hub dimensions generally seemed okay other than the boss. The outer halves of the blades also seem good for shape other than the issue of the entire blade being too short overall.
  12. 11' 7" diameter Hamilton standard. Early blades were thinner than later blades. The change was somewhere in the D production line if I recall correctly.
  13. I don't think it's quite as bad as it's being made out to be. I think some of the hyperbole is a bit... ridiculous.
  14. It's part of an Electronic warfare system called Carpet. A few B-24s in each group were fitted with it to disrupt German flak radars. Unfortunately the flak could still get lucky and Miss Lace was actually shot down by flak as the last combat loss of the 461st BG. Carpet had three fishhook antennas in clear domes near the front of the plane and an additional antenna towards the rear. More on Carpet and other countermeasures here: http://www.cdvandt.org/rcm_vs_wurzburg.htm
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