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About titan

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    LSP Junkie

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  1. Very nice build. Love the subject choice too. Not often seen. Well done.
  2. I'll go against the trend and say that while I think the finish looks fine I do think you can find something that looks more authentic. One possibility might be some rough buffing with a dremel tool. The buffing wheel may be able to give you the grain patterns you're after. It's a thought to try on some scrap maybe.
  3. That is outstanding. The way you've mastered contrast in both the painting and photography is phenomenal. That's got to be the best presentation of a model I've seen in a long time. Well done.
  4. Doesn't barracuda do some E-F tires? Would those not work?
  5. Suggestion for a set of 1/32 legacy Hornet landing gear for the Academy kit. G-factor seems to be OOP and either way your sets look better.
  6. Hoping someone at MPS or on the forums can help me with this. I just got done painting a 1/32 Korean war Sabre. Mission Models 003 Aluminum over their standard black primer with Mission Models yellow for the ID bands. It looked pretty good though the Aluminum gave me fits and took three tries to get right. Any attempt at wet-sanding the 003 would result in the paint dissolving and turning into a gooey mees. But I got there. I used Mission Models Dark Aluminum for the gun panel and exhaust and it went down fine. Then I put on the first gloss cote using Alclad II Aqua Gloss. I
  7. Beware the HPH engine though. It is oddly lacking in detail and doesn't really capture the unique look of the R2600 cylinders. In my opinion the best 1/32 R2600 is the one in the Trumpeter TBF/M Avenger kits. I dearly wish Vector would do an R2600 though. Not sure why they haven't.
  8. On wingtips: The wingtip is way too thick. Honestly this was more noticeable to me than the airfoil cross-section issue. As I've been trying to work a fix for the airfoil I'm finding that forcing the wingtips into a narrower shape may be next to impossible due to the way the wings are molded and internal stresses in the plastic; even after stripping out all the internal ribbing. At this point my solution is to slice the wingtips off and 3D print new ones. Alternatively you could do some very careful thinning of both the leading and trailing edges though I fear that in order to get the win
  9. On props: Props diameter is too small by about 5 scale inches. Thats about 2mm per blade. Doesn't sound like much but it means the props are undersize by about 5%. Prop boss diameter is also undersize by 1mm. This is actually quite a bit more noticeable when comparing to pictures of the real thing. Prop blade shape is off from the hub to about the middle of the blade. The blade is flared much too widely near the hub. The maximum blade width should be at a point near the middle of the blade. In fact, the width of the kit blades at the middle point is dead on rig
  10. 11' 7" diameter Hamilton standard. Early blades were thinner than later blades. The change was somewhere in the D production line if I recall correctly.
  11. I don't think it's quite as bad as it's being made out to be. I think some of the hyperbole is a bit... ridiculous.
  12. It's part of an Electronic warfare system called Carpet. A few B-24s in each group were fitted with it to disrupt German flak radars. Unfortunately the flak could still get lucky and Miss Lace was actually shot down by flak as the last combat loss of the 461st BG. Carpet had three fishhook antennas in clear domes near the front of the plane and an additional antenna towards the rear. More on Carpet and other countermeasures here: http://www.cdvandt.org/rcm_vs_wurzburg.htm
  13. The secret is that I've made every mistake possible. After making all the mistakes the only possible course of action left is to finally get it right. Usually. I do use a variety of plug-ins. I honestly can't remember them all but here are a few: Curviloft by LibFredo - great for generating complex curved surfaces as long as you can define their boundaries Curvizard - good for joining, smoothing, exploding curved lines BezierSpline - Great for creating splines that you can then smooth out with Curvizard Mirror - Makes a mirror image of your selected
  14. Started in on the instrument panel for fun. First step was to scan the kit part. This is fairly imprecise but it does help me with matching the outline contours. This in turn will make installation into the HB cockpit easier. And started adding instruments. There are actually two types of Privateer instrument panels, an early type for the first 274 aircraft, and a late type for all subsequent airframes. Below is the start of the late type. I've still got a lot of buttons, lights, etc to add but progress is good. The Ginter book has been an invaluable reference.
  15. Another note, that plane had the earlier Martin A-3C dorsal turret. The A-3C had a symmetrical lower-profile dome. The one in the kit is a not-so-great representation of an A-3D where the profile rises towards the rear of the turret.
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