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The Luftwaffe training unit at George, the 20th TFTS did use Block 63 F-4Es with serials in the 75-0628 - 0637 range. Perhaps these were attrition replacements. When used by the unit, they wore GA tail codes and (from top down) black/red/yellow stripes on the fincap. They were fitted with TISEO cameras in the wing leading edge and had standard F-4E slatted stabs. At least one was shipped back to Europe, as 75- 0636 was photographed at Fassberg in November 2007 still in US markings with the fin stripes but with GA code removed. It's likely they were just transferred from other USAF units based at George as some (75-0632, 0633, 0634 and 0637) have all been photographed with the blue fincaps of the 562nd TFS before the German colours were applied The 562nd was likely transitioning to the F-4G at the time of the handovers (early '80s). In your photos above, 72-1257 became 38+47 with JG71 in a photo I have dated May 1990, and 72-1116 became 37+06 and had a career with JG71 in the 70s then with JG73 and JBG36 in the 90s.

Sad to report that my father-in-law who I spoke about in this post in February passed away yesterday. Not from COV-19, but he'd lost the ability to swallow and his time ran out. I'll still get the model as a memento to him to remind myself of the many aviation related conversations we'd had over more than 40 years.

Very nice job on the camo scheme and the figures too. I've often thought the 219 isn’t a plane you'd like to be piloting in for a crash landing.

Whoa, Blank Belly, bam-a-lam Whoa, Blank Belly, bam-a-lam Given the quality of the rest of the panel lines and an understanding of why, would an increase in number of parts in those locations be desirable. I'd suggest not but there are other opinions. The intakes are an interesting point. Rather than a two piece longitudinal split which is the most likely approach to be taken by most manufacturers, I'd prefer to see shorter sections that could be easily cleaned up if moulded in halves, with spanwise joints. Such an arrangement would just appear as ribbing joints if visible at all. Either that or resin trunking which can only be aftermarket. Perhaps the Italeri release will spur the resin industry to produce some, which would very likely be adaptable to the Revell kit.

The Italeri kit will have to be very special to improve on the Revell kit. The Revell panel lines on their Tornado are far superior to the Italeri ones seen on their F-104. It will of course include parts missing from the Revell version, so swings and roundabouts.

A very nice Beau model with a lot of really good detail. Just needs to be paired with a Ju 88 C-6 night fighter!

Getting back to staying safe from the COVID-19 virus, I'd like to draw your attention to my post of 13th March pointing out virus survival for 14 days. Various well-meaning people preferred to accept some reports of much shorter persistence on surfaces times, including those from the WHO. However today the CDC has warned https://www.cnbc.com/2020/03/23/cdc-coronavirus-survived-in-princess-cruise-cabins-up-to-17-days-after-passengers-left.html Recommendations for dealing with that can be found in my original post here. (Short version alcohol wipe down where possible)

Come on without, Come on within. You won't see nothin' Like the Mighty Fin.

It looks very similar to the tones on the pre-grey Viggen trees and meadows scheme

That T-tail is almost as impressive as the HP Victors! You've blended the bullets in well.

The nature of the windscreen rippling on the first releases in Europe looked like heat shrinkage caused by premature ejection from the mould. Two bought kits and two Revell replacements, all faulty. Yet some bought at the same time elsewhere had perfect examples. It's likely only better management of mould cycling time is all that was required, and not new moulds.

First things that jumped out at me were the Jag really does use lo-pressure tyres. And those AdA ejection seats look very last generation.

One of the problems is that your model is in danger of looking ineptly painted (by you) rather than 'authentic'.

Thanks for that, and well spotted about the rotation direction. I just skimmed right past it when I noticed the ring was missing. While the fan blades are just about doable with a knife at home and some sheet, it's the reinforcing ring that makes it both more authentic and viable.

Hey thanks Simon. In harder times, I've actually used leftover bathroom silicone sealer to make moulds for small items like wheels. It takes two or three days to cure for a blob about a half inch thick and an inch across, but what's the hurry? The benefit of using silcone is that you can flex the part out of the mould, which you can't with milliput. Plus you'll get more copies from the same mould