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hello again fellow modellers Hi Jay - it's just a cheap Chinese one, but seems perfectly adequate for my needs - I just need to learn how to use it Ahh - that is one good looking Spit - but having done one, I doubt I will do another (especially as it was my favourite Mark..) They are really useful - thanks Chek, I have lots of resto shots, but very, very few of it actually finished so these are brilliant! ..I have been away much of the week, so just a little more done - but each part is one more step towards completion! ..firstly, the control column was finished & painted - I just need to work out what to make the canvas gaiter from as all the materials I have the weave is over scale.. ..and dry fitted in place.. ..next, the rudder pedals... these are in Lopes Hope... a very obvious feature is the writing on the faces ..this was taken care of by making PE parts - here the rounded shape is being imparted by taping & rolling over some brass rod.. ..soon the base pedals were made.. ..then a kit of parts assembled, including the forks that hold them.. ..I checked and only the bottom of the assembly can be seen, so all the upper gubbins was pretty much ignored.. ..and these were then painted and some light scuffing - washes & weathering will come much later... ..thats it for now.. TTFN Peter

I started my adventure with modeling four years ago. And I wanted to show you one of the models from the beginnings of my modeling passion. At the beginning I apologize for the pictures - I know that they are very weak but I did them without studio lighting. The model is the F-8E Crusader Trumpeter 1:32, the model quite easy to build I had small problems were with the air intake. I think that you already know that I always make models straight from the box and try to present heavily exploited machines. Such painting makes for me the models are less "plastic" do not look like toys. Ovcourse it's my opinion.

The stub wings and tailplanes were next. Once done, these were glued in place. So quite a bit done. A fair bit left too but it's moving closer to completion.

Next up was more masking. Finally, time for the light grey to be applied. Here's all the various masks. I kept them on a sheet of waxed paper in case I needed to do touch ups. Which I was expecting due to the various lumps and bumps.

Here are the final set of shots taken outside on a cloudy day. Glad this one is over - largely my own fault having dropped it and that fact that Trumpeter and the UK distributor off now spares parts service whatsoever (I tried several times with both and received no response). The kit had the very extensive Eduard series of sets, Aires cockpit, exhaust and wheel bays, Avionix cockpit etc There are a number of mistakes - small tanks, early exhaust when it should be the later one. I am sure there are a bunch more. I also noticed post photographing that I have knocked the fuse extenders so that are not all equally spread. I was pleased with the effect of reducing the pin cushion divots that Trumpeter wanted to pass as rivets.

So, with the help of Peter of AirScale I acquired some clear F-104 IP cards, custom made by a gent Peter deals with. Amazing! I could not have done this part without him, so cheers to Peter! . Its basically a clear sheet of acetate with the 104 instruments printed on it, including many MANY extras in case for when I screw one or more up. You can see the clear sheet here with the Eduard panel taped on top of it. Near perfect fit! An impromptu session in front of a light gives a very general idea of how things will go, but in this case it looks a bit more washed out than it will with the smaller and less intense light behind it: A bit mis-aligned in my haste, but you get the general idea. It will be much more realistic looking with a less harsh light, and not having the halo I light around the outside of the IP either.:

The school holidays are upon us now so the BUFF has been seeing a little action... I've not been happy with the rear turret set up, and I feel the kit's parts don't accurately resemble the real aircraft. Please excuse the terrible photo here (quick snap with the phone camera that I didn't realise was so out of focus) but as you can see... IMG_1127 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr ... it's not even close to the real deal... Tail Turret by Thomas Probert, on Flickr (Used for illustrative purposes only) So, it was out with the hacksaw, and I removed the kit-supplied turret and began by building up the basic underlying structure with some scrap plastic card and some brass tubing for the gun housing: IMG_1135 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr This was then all blended with filler, and sanded to shape. I then added the radar domes from some scrap 500lb bomb noses as the kit parts were too small: DSC_0172 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Pretty happy with that - we'll see what it looks like under some primer in due course. As I explained in my earlier update, the kit panel lines are rather inconsistent and they've all been filled and an initial coat of primer applied. I've now begun to scribe my own panel detail onto the model - here's the nose: DSC_0179 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0160 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Undersides: DSC_0168 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr DSC_0177 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr The mid-section join has disappeared which is a bonus: DSC_0181 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I've begun working on the spoilers - vanes still to be added: DSC_0174 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr She's looking a bit of a mess at the moment, but I can assure to that progress is being made: DSC_0158 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Until next time, Tom

IMHO , the prop should be visible. There is always something visible enough when a prop is turning If you don't place the prop, the viewer often has the feeling that Something is missing. To me no prop and blurred prop are no good enough compromises. That's the Reason why I prefer for the prop to turn whenever it is necessary for my model, most of the time, I put a small motor in there

Paint!!! I have applied the gull grey topcoat. I seem to have applied it a little heavier than I wanted because the preshading has all but disappeared. Oh well. I am not going to touch this for a week as I have a terrible habit of leaving fingerprints everywhere. When I do get back to it I will be masking all of the bare metal areas. Later, Dan

I made a bunch of progress over the last couple of days. I got the canopy glued onto the fuselage. The fit wasn't perfect so I glued it on sections. Once the back section was dry, I glued the gunner's part. Doing it this way pretty much eliminated the big issues and left a couple small seams that I filled with sprue glue. The benefit was I got a nice secure bond between the canopy and the fuselage and it self leveled as it dried so I didn't have much sanding to do.

Hi Matt. Applied primer coat . Will sand smooth, preshade and highlights.

Some random pics of our wedding and the absolutely STUNNING surroundings we were in........ The wife near the mouth of the lake, with skies so utterly vivid blue it almost looked fake at the time The view outside the courthouse we got our marriage licence in The wife and I right after the ceremony at nature's altar Wife and I at the actual spot we held the ceramony at For some reason I felt the need for a forest version of Captain Morgan On the way home from said ceramony Heading up to the summit of Mt Massive@ 15,000+ Mt Massive Summit Back at the Lake after the ceremony.... The weather was absolutely perfect, as is Colorado every time we visit. Cheers!

HI everyone, I've finally joined the fuselage to wings. It's been a bit of a struggle to get the surfaces as clean as I like, but I feel I've got much done. Here's some pics: I've filled the upper fuselage gun troughs, and replaced the hitherto closed radiator flaps with new flaps made of card. With all of the control surfaces at neutral...or closed, I felt this was a change needed to make the model more engaging to the eye. The original radiator flaps had only 8 external and 8 internal flaps represented in the molding. It took me quite a while to find a useful picture because all of the surviving TA-152's and FW 190D's use the Jumo 213 engine whilst the TA-152 utilizes the DB 603 engine. I found some pictures of the radiator arrangement on the Heinkel 219 Uhu which also utilizes the DB 603 engine. After a lot of looking, I finally decided that twelve inner and twelve outer flaps were required. I also just remembered that I need to make 12 pushrods for the flaps... All of the trailing edges needed a bit of work to make acceptably sharp. It actually took up a fair bit of time. Of course, that meant that I lost all of the raised detail on the control surfaces. Never fear... Silhouette Portrait is here: I found a drawing of the FW 190's framework online and imported it into my Silhouette software. After cleaning it up a bit, I cut the masks and used a few thick coats of Tamiya Matte Red to give me back the raised detail. There's a bit of overspray to remove.... I'm going to have to pin the stabilizers, too. I was going to show them dry-fitted, but they looked a bit too droopy that way. Thanks for looking! Gaz

The -3 windscreens had a armored glass behind it and appeared to be rounded in front and no upper brace. The -5s had armored glass glass Incorporated in the windscreen and appears flatter on the front with an upper brace The top drawing is a -3 and the middle and bottom are -5 Canopies. However there may difference among productions runs

Once the canopy was dry and I had sanded the bit of filler down, I masked it off and sprayed a coat of black. This was followed by Gunship Grey. Then I started on applying the paint masks. DN Models make a set of these which is the reason I got the kit.

I took few shots today, for all of you guys who purchased the Big Lanc. Cheers Martin https://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/6774-lancaster-mk-x-fm-159-nanton-alberta/?tab=comments#comment-94450

Box art http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/product?productid=3194 http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/product?productid=3193

After making sure the clear IP silhouettes fit as they should, it was onto the cockpits themselves. I had previously tested the fit of these in the fuselage separate from each other, but took this opportunity to unite the two cockpits while they were temporarily held in the fuselage, so fit would not be an issue later. I glued the two ejection seat mounts to their respective pit areas, then after careful alignment, glued the two pits together as per the instructions. After that, the two C2 ejection seats slid nicely down the rails into position temporarily. I then mocked up two heads I wasnt going to use for my Master Details pilots, and proceeded to put them in place to see how they fit, and to see if I had any clearance issues with the clear parts. To my surprise, they actually fit really well, and I didn't have any clearance issues, nor did it seam like I was going to have too much trouble customizing hands and arms to match up with the control stick for the pilot either. I took some extra time and using one of Radu's fine saws, I liberated all 5 main glass parts to the F-104 cockpits. Another (good) surprise here, as not only did I not seem to have any clearance issues with the pilots, but all of the glass parts fit really nice, not even requiring finger pressure to line up. All of this, including all 5 canopy parts, radio and rear access hatches are all just loosely sitting on the fuselage here. Even so the fit is evidently good, and should only improve once all parts are exactly where they should be: The radio and rear hatches fit well too, but will just need some very slight pressure on them when gluing to get them in the perfect spot they need to be to allow the canopy parts to all sit there they need to be: All for now gents and gentettes! I've got to go home and make a vid of the lighting setup for Richard, and hopefully will get that fixed as soon as possible so I can move on and finalize the power situation. Cheers!

Sunday's efforts here with wings painted and decaled. Being and older WnW kit the decals behaved perfectly and settled down without issue. Wings now ready for some weathering and install Gaspatch turn buckles in readiness for rigging. Regards.. Andy

Small motors make sense. Some of the clear disc attempts can look ok too, but I'm not so convinced by the photo-etched versions. I overheard a comment once at a model show that the photo-etched prop blurs looked like someone had attached a fern to the front of the aircraft, and I haven't been able to get that out of my head now. Richard

Thanks guys! six years, it would be fast and wonderful. I have an idiopathic slowdown(bradykinesie) that started at least three years ago and the sitting position is uncomfortable beyond ten minutes. I must to stand up or lie down Add to that the work on the new house the last two years the time goes fast.. The gestures are much slower and less strong and precise and the motivation is down, but posting here makes me want to continue and finish this project I have a design problem to fit the landing gear on firewall and this prevents to continue. In the meantime, I'm working on the pilot's canopy. Remains to be done: - propellers* - engines* - landing gear struts - canopies* - rear wheel - firewall* - seats* - machine gun mounting - instrument panel* *in progress Then mold and cast all these items furnishings as levers, levers, radio, electric boxes, will remain to made by yourself. Six years yet? May be less, hope it . I return to the workbench....

Got some washes on, placard decals from the Barracuda set, a little touch up painting, and a final dull coat. My Yahu IP is on backorder, so this is as far as we go on the cockpit for now. Mar on the starboard sidewall is where I had the oxygen hose attached, but realized with test fitting that it needs to go on after attached to that fuselage side. [/url] My second attempt at HGW belts was much better than the first. I threaded the belts through the buckles while they were still on the sprue, which made things much less likely to go pinging off into the ether.

First rough fit for the new exhaust, I really like this printing from MODEL-MONKEY, the parts are really clean !!!

The only way we would know for sure is by knowing the Bu Number on the tail

Thanks guys! Anyways, sawed of the short tail, and test fitted the new long tail. Had to go at it carefully, but I think this is good enough. There’s still a small step, the resin tail being a little wider than the kit fuselage.

Like this? Kev

https://www.modellbau-koenig.de/en/Literature/other/B-17G-Big-Bird-Modelling-Guide

I'm rather pleased with the outcome of my problematic canopy. I used the centre section canopy for the aft one (thanks for the thought Kag!), put the "fake" one inside the forward section and then glued one edge first and once dry, I then "eased" the other edge out to take up as much of the lip as possible. A little touching up to do but nowhere near as much as I thought I was going to be faced with:

The dreadful thread drift syndrom!

Have I missed something? Why did a thread about the 1/32 Eduard Legion Condor Kit morph into BoB Hurricane talk?

OK, here are the last 6. Are you bored yet? There are over 80 separate parts mounted on this splinter shield including helmets, cooling tubes, spare gun barrels, phone boxes, and tool boxes. The long baskets alongside the shield (and on the backs of the big gun turrets) are floater net baskets. They contain netting with flotation around the perimeter and are used mostly in conflict to aid those fallen or knocked overboard. Overall view of the aft deck. View of the stern showing the catapults and recovery crane. The ship carried (2) "Spotter" float planes whose job it was to search out enemy ships and to also "spot" where the big 16" shells were landing. The big 16" guns could fire a 2300 pound projectile a distance of over 20 miles, meaning the gun crews could not see where their shells were landing. The float planes were shot off the catapult by dummy 5" shells and were retrieved by the crane at the stern. Close up view of one of the catapults. These two were nightmares to build! The cradles for the float planes are mounted, but I have not built the aircraft yet. Close-up of the stern. The crane was another %#$@ to build! All the framing had to be built up piece by piece. You might have noticed the rows of slotted racks around the insides of the 40mm gun tubs. These are ammo racks that hold the magazines for the 40mm guns. Here is the stern. I really don't like that ladder up the hull. It's not professional at all. That whole area looks tacky, plus, I need white letters, not black I have to do something about that - but not till later! OK, so that's what it looks like now. Thanks for looking! Larry

I set aside the Hind for pretty much all of June as I thought I'd misplaced the intake cones and wasn't up to looking for them in my pile of organized chaos....I mean workbench. Turns out they were still on the sprues. So with those recently found, I started back up on it. I fitted the intake cones and then the pilot's door. The fit is nice but I wanted to make sure it was flush with the fuselage and didn't get pressed in too far. Next up, I sanded off a mould seam line on the canopy and polished it up. The gunner's canopy is a touch warped so I have glued it on in steps. This way I got it to line up much better. There's some interior detail to add to the canopy and then I can install it.

Thanks! Fursnake (that's her name, my wife named her) hasn't been as interested in hanging out while I'm at my bench lately. But if I'm reading in the living room, she's there.

great work on the tail, looks MUCH better

Well 1 step forward, and two back as they say.............. I went to do a 2nd full lighting test with just the original 4 AAs and no go......................it basically did nothing. Plugged everything in the exact same way I did on the test that worked prior to leaving for the wedding and nada. Nothing. None of any of the lights I plugged in worked in any capacity. I tried 3 different sets of brand new batteries, to no avail. Ive got good current coming out of the power box, but nothing is making it to the PC board. Ive sent a note to Richard of MSM lighting, and he responded almost immediately, letting me know he can help. Im going to send him a vid of the works tonight to see if it may be a faulty PC board or not, so will have to put the power stuff on temporary hold. So, I had to move onto other things.............like the cockpits that are in dire need of work, as nothing can be moved ahead on until the cockpit and the pilots are 100% figured out.............more in a min.

MRP are fine with Alclad Primers and clear coats.

Yep, dad was into quarter scale (actual 1/4th scale vs what others so incorrectly informally call 1/48th) R/C for most of my childhood. I saw him build lots and LOTS of giant scale R/C ships. That was back in the days when you could get away with making a quarter scale R/C ship for under a $1000 USD. Not so today, as you can buy working 5, 7, 9 and even 18 cylinder engines starting at around $1,500. Back in the day, dad had a quarter scale P-47 and it was BIG. It had Eaglestons markings, with full (old school hydrolic) retracts and even charcoal filled dummy bombs that he could release over the field on a run. I distinctly remember back in those days, unlike today, you had "flags" at the flying field with your frequency (today's R/C radios all have oscillating frequency generators, so you never have to worry about being on someone else's "frequency") on it you put up, so you wouldn't get mixed signals and crash with someone else flying on your frequency...............One day dad put his frequency flag up on the flying fields display rack for all to see, observing another new pilot there he'd never seen before had a different frequency up on the rack. Dad put the P-47 in the air with confidence as the other pilot was still prepping his training model for flight. What did didn't know is that pilot had mistaken his frequency for another and put up the wrong flag, thinking he had another radio than what he actually had. Of course it was on dads same frequency, and as soon as the guy turned his radio on, the big Jug when immediately to full throttle, and while the guy on the ground went through his flight control checks, the dads P-47 did the same, going up and down yawing right to left and finally a burst of full throttle and down elevator about 10 feet from the ground sent his jug into the asphalt, and a MILLION little silver and yellow pieces. After that day, I was old enough to understand the amount of time and money my dad lost that day, and I have stuck to my plastic static models ever since.

A friend of mine sunk all of his summer work savings into an RC glider during his senior year of high school. He bought it from someone that had built it from scratch. It essentially looked like a Grob glider. The upper canopy lifted off for access to the battery and controls and there was a small eyelet at the extreme nose for a tow rope. The problem lay with the fact that the nose section - containing the battery and the tow eyelet - was a separate piece from the rest of the airframe. So, one day, my friend prepped for his maiden flight. His other friend grabbed the tow rope, got the slack out and started running along. Before long, the glider was soaring under her own lift. Just when our friend was ready to release the tow rope, disaster struck. The nose/canopy piece separated from the remaining airframe under the strain from the tow rope. The battery immediately disconnected from the controls as the nose piece fell to earth. The glider, with its center of gravity completely out of whack and its controls frozen due to lack of power, rapidly pitched vertically up, stalled, and smacked the asphalt at about 50mph, shattering it into thousands of pieces of wood, plastic, and my friend's tears.

I don’t want to hijack this thread but I went ahead and did an ‘eyeball’ CAD drawing of 1/24 scale tie-down strips for laser cutting. I’ll start a separate thread but just wanted to mention it here. Here’s a test-cut, the overall sheet is sized to fit a legal-sized envelope and contains ten 8-3/4” tie-down strips. The material is a cabinet-making product called Polybak, a resin impregnated paper product that super-glues fabulously. It’s .018” thick. Look for a separate thread. Jimbo

So basically, it's all a bit blurry.

My point exactly! In real life, you're looking at continuous motion. A picture is a "freeze frame" of an instant in time: in that instant, a prop blade travels in a small arc and is the camera captures a blur for that arc. @red Dog great models above, but of course the camera captures exactly what it would capture on a real aircraft. I must admit I'd put a small motor in any models where I wanted a moving prop if my skills were up to it. In the meantime, I'm happy with the trompe l'oeil effect of no blades.

I once took a video from the right cockpit seat of a turbo Otter during takeoff, I could see what the camera could see (digital camera) when played back several hours later there was a prop blade not moving and stuck at about the 1:00-1:30 position on the camera viewer. By eye I could see nothing of the prop during take off and flight... weird

Sadly, yes. The usual error of painting the interior in US Interior Green throughout was made. B-17s were unpainted internally - only exposed metal on the flightdeck was painted bronze green. There is some evidence emerging that Douglas-built Forts had their radio rooms and some section of rear fuselage painted, but there's no definitive information as to what shades of green and also what batches. However, your best bet, if you're concerned about accuracy, is to paint a WWII-era B-17 aluminium inside. Tom

No, I put a post up in the Venders forum asking if anyone had one for sale and another member sorted me out.

That looks fantastic, Carl! Great work. Kev

This is nearly all out of the box, a few scratch built parts to add some detail in the cockpit is all I added. I used the decals from the Tamiya F-16 Thunderbird to make up for anything I couldn't do with graphics. I used Maketar paint masks for all the scallops & curves on the bird and 3M fineline tape to connect everything together. I used MCW (Model Car Works) lacquer paints mixed to the correct FS colors for the Thunderbirds. The nozzle and cockpit is done with Vallejo paints and varnish. You can find a detailed work in progress build in Group Builds: Stars and bars. I decided to do tribute to the outgoing F-16 and I found the perfect art on the USAF site. This poster was created by SSgt Jon DuMond of the USAF Thunderbirds and they had a 3mb file available for free download, perfect. The key for me was the 2 F-16's outbound in the visor reflection. I used watercolors to blend the photo into the base and wrap it up into the F-35A Thunderbird. My bird is the Solo Lead with pilot and crew from the 2004 season reflected on the F-35A. I hope you enjoy these. I keep learning from everyone elses posts so I I've tried to add detail in the WIP that may be useful to others. If you see something you'd like to know more about drop me a line. And if you know the secret to the perfect build, or even a few of my model building dilemmas as detailed here, feel free to post it up. Chris

Here's post #2 of this set: A lot of people have asked me what I'm going to do with this ship when I finish it? Truthfully, I have no idea! I definitely am going to enclose it in a protective case to keep the dust off, but other than that, I haven't decided. I'm thinking of possibly displaying it for a while and them possibly donating it to the Veterans Home here in Grand Rapids. Who knows - that's a long ways down the road. The light gray deck is in place just so you can see where turret #2 is located. Nothing has been done to this part - it's just as it came out of the box. Aside from all the brass parts, the entire ship was this color. Everything except the decking (which is real wood, by the way) has to be painted either Haze Grey or Deck Blue. Here's a closer look at the foredeck and anchor chains Adding the 6 chain stops was a real pain in the you know what! The little red things with white handwheels are high pressure fire suppression water valves. As I said before, the deck railing has not been added, nor has the 20mm AA guns and flagstaff at the prow. This is a close-up view of the foredeck just behind the anchor chains, showing the various detail on the main deck. First are the windless and brake controls, then the (2) 20mm Oerlikon anti-aircraft guns, various hatches and vents, and then the (2) quad 40mm Bofors gun positions, along with their respective gun directors. The storage boxes are ammunition lockers for the respective guns, and the torpedo shaped things behind the 40mm gun tubs are the (2) paravanes This is a shot of turret #1. There is a structure that is located between turrets #1 and 2 on the main deck that has not been added yet. It won't be added until Deck #1 is glued in place. I glued fender washers under the deck and magnets inside the turrets to hold them into place. That way they can be rotated and removed if necessary. The gun barrels are brass, believe it or not. Yeah, I know, why would you pay for brass gun barrels and then paint over them. I'm sure all of you know why!!! This shot shows the back side of the breakwater and the equipment located there. Also, note the helmets for the gun crew and the loudspeakers mounted on the rear of the 40mm gun tubs. A lot of this detail was added by me and did not come with the kit. I have a set of plans for this ship that are 9 feet long that shows all this extra detail. Here is turret #2. It has a 40mm gun position on top of it where turret #1 does not. You can see why!! Also note the 20mm AA guns on either side of the ship. The small diagonal tubes mounted on the front of the splinter shield are spare gun barrels. Cooling tubes for hot expended gun barrels are located inside the splinter shield, as are more crew helmets. The two valves just aft of the splinter shield are refueling ports for when the ship is refueled at sea. all this is extra detail that does not come with the detail kits. Overall view of the starboard side of the fore main gun battery This is the part I'll be working on next. There is a ton of brass detail that gets added to the sides, along with wooden decking similar to the main deck. I also plan to grind off some of the doorways and show them open with brass doors. The (4) rectangular protrusions along the sides are where the 5" gun mounts are located. There are 10 of them on this deck and the one above. This is just astern of Deck #1 and the location of turret#3. There's a lot of detail around here including 20mm and 40mm gun positions, winches, hatches, vents, hose reels, and fire suppression equipment. The long, grey device on the side of the ship swings out and ladders lower to dock small boats that come alongside. OK, this is another 10 photos. There are 6 more which I will post in the next one - #3

Haven't had a single moment of modeling time since the wedding, but now that we are back and unpacked, I had a chance to look at the base that finally arrived for the F-104. This is from the same company I used prior that worked out so well for my Extra 300 (base was partially ruined by my own hand, but no fault of the manus). Anyway, this is a custom made base, 3/4" top beveled 6" x 12" in heavy black acrylic. Its quite heavy, and should work well for the 104 since most of the weight will be toward the middle/back of the model. I had the company I purchased the base from drill a 7/8" hole (same exact size as the clear support rod) at a 40 deg angle in the base before they ever sent it to me. I was not sure it could be done cleanly by a professional let alone myself, so they agreed to try to have it drilled prior to payment, and it worked out wonders, as they shop they had do it, obviously did it with some precision, as there is no scaring, scratching or any other obvious blemishes from the drilling (dirt and oil from my hand of course, that wipes off easy): The clear rod that I will use to support the model once done, fits like a glove into the hole they drilled. This also gives you a decent idea of what the AOA will be on the finished model: The clear rod of course will be cut off flush with the bottom of the base as dictated by the F-104s fuselage and how much of the "exhaust" I want showing, and how tall I want the overall model when finished. It wont be short that's for sure!! I'm really anxious to get back to the bench and have a go at a full lighting test with the 9V. Cheers till your older!!

Exactly. The problem isn't CGI, it's how it's being used. An example of what can be done when the folks involved know something about flight physics:

I pictured this ... Another one bites the dust Congratulations sir.