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airscale

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Everything posted by airscale

  1. evening folks Hi Tim - the only place I know of is where I got mine, but I got 100 x sheets bigger than A4 - I don't know if they do smaller amounts - it's called Jade long runs There is nothing here beyond you Thunnus, in fact I think if you for example lost the main gear door on one of your glorious Fw190D's you could and would scratchbuild one equal to, or better than the kit part - it's all about shapes and basic construction, I just make it look fancy it was time to sort out the under wing area - quite a lot to do here.. the wing join needed filling, the flap housing in the fuselage needed doing, the lower keel parts needed making etc etc .. I started by filling and fairing the wing join - I also added some false flaps so I could fill and sand over them and leave a perfect outline for the recess.. ..here masked up for a shot of primer so I can see whats what.. ..you can also see the big hole at the front - thats where I ripped off the fairing I had made before as it was wrong.. ..the false flaps doing their job well - these were just bits of litho exactly the shape of the recessed flaps bordered in tamiya tape.... ..once it was primed I added the ribs right at the end where the flap meets the fuselage.. moving forward, there are no drawings I can find of the forward fairing - I just have to go off photo's and in fact this whole area has been really hard to interpret in terms of the fairings & LE wing root fairings.. ..you can see behind the cowl flaps is a ducted fairing from the back of the radiators (the dull ali fairing on the right..)- this I made ages ago and now I find it's not quite deep enough, or long enough ..I remade the fairing to meet that ducted fairing and used the cowl flaps to understand and set out the geometry of the fuselage edge... ..I did my best to interpret it and compensate for the earlier error - you can see the fairing below the cowl flaps - this should be as long as the cowl flaps are... ..these pictures belie the amout of making, re-making, measuring, re-measuring etc that has gone on in this area and I am still not entirely happy.. ..I reshaped the cowl flap borders, the leading edge fairing area and still think there is more to do.. ..I also need to cut the slots in the forward fairing for the big ammo ejection chutes and do a lot more finessing here.. ..once I get all the keel parts made, the shapes & fairings right I can start skinning it all, though there is a lot going on under here so it will take a while.. TTFN Peter
  2. I have a great way to solve the tape problem... ..don't put any on
  3. Congratulations Jay - you have reduced me to a gibbering wreck... those cowl flap mechanisms are just unbelievable quality - so uniform and clean. I have said before about how I cheat by designing bits like that in PE and then proudly building up little kits of parts, but to make them from nothing and make them look like factory parts like that is an unbelievable talent glad the decals finally arrived - they look great in place Peter
  4. howdy folks Hi Matt - I use the proprietory adhesive cleaner that goes with the cement I use - it dilutes it to any consistency I need and in fact I found recently that I can almost take it down to the consistency of water and it still works as a contact adhesive Hi Craig - thanks that is a great tip - I will try it Hi Tim thanks - yes there are a couple here and here - good luck and if you have any questions just ping me Hi Pete - it's really simple - I just leave a slot in the skinning and get some Albion Alloy ali tube of the diameter I want and score it at 1 - 2mm spacing so there are ridges on the tube. You need to apply enough pressure that you get a good score line, but not so much that you actually cut the tube. Then I put it on a bit of tape and run it up and down a sanding stick so a flat forms - be careful peeling the tape off as the tube is now weakened at all those score lines and you have the hinge part ready to add so, just a small update today, but a pretty big step forward as the wings have been added... ..the model was laid on plans and levelled in all axis - the right dihedral was already fixed from the slide tubes added on day one of this build.. then they was epoxied into position and left to set.. ..with the wings added, it was time to understand and set out the fillet structures.. seen here on the real one, they are quite substantial.. ..I used drawings to create templates and then mark out the borders using lining tape, bulked out with tamiya tape.. ..also added a brass definition shape at the back of the fillet to define the scalloped outline, and a little card section at the leading edge.. ..then P38 filler was added and shaped - I thought I had done things in the right order by skinning some of the wings & fuselage, but actually it made for a harder task in doing some pretty agressive sanding & shaping right next to a buch of finished panels.. ..you can see a missing panel by the access door - that was victim of a slipped dremel and will need to be remade... ..then a first coat of high build primer was shot to see how it looked.. ..it's certainly close - a bit of fettling needed and then it will be fine to carry on skinning.. TTFN Peter
  5. very well said - I think this is how most of us feel so sad, she was the nation's soul Peter
  6. Just my opinion but this is all on the seller.. Ebay collects the tax and issues a unique code to be put with the address We do this every day from our store By not putting the code in a visible place on the parcel, the postal system of whichever destination country where the tax was due has no way if knowing it was paid so is seeking it from you (plus fees) The seller is responsible for labeling that tax has been collected as per the eBay terms of service and in my view for your costs Peter
  7. Jay - I have the advantage of knowing exactly what you are doing... find the drawing, scale it, make the sub components, make the part... however, the threshold for the level of iddy, biddy bits I would go down to and actually be able to reproduce is waaaay lower than yours, and the ability to have the engineering accuracy to make parts that actually fit together rather than just representative shapes shows this is what I would call extreme modelling - in fact it's not even modelling, its scale reproduction - you have a God-like talent for this... very, very impressive Peter
  8. just stunning.. when I grow up I want to be able to paint like that... those prop blades are hyper realistic Peter
  9. hi everyone thank you so much for stopping by and your kind replies Hi Craig - I did consider 3D printing and I sort of tried it, but they are quite organic shapes and I am not very good at those so soon decided to just make and cast them like I did with the Spit Thanks Andy - those pics are lovely - I really like they show the tonal difference in the stainless steel exhaust panel which is reassuring as I made this in PE out of laziness, but actually it is good having it in nickel silver as it contrasts with the litho Hi Paul - thanks. Good question - I think it could work - I wanted to do an HK Lancaaster as a Lancastrian, or a B17 as a Boeing 307 Stratoliner, both of which would lend themselves well to skinning, but then if you tried it on say a Spitfire it might be a bit too hard as the compound curves would be pretty tight and I think skinning a smaller model would be pretty tricky. Not impossible, but hard I would say Hi Tim - I am not sure what that is? I have my 3D designs printed, and as yet have not had to use a 3d print as a master for casting resin, but sure it would be pretty straightforward - that or resin printing is neither of these things in which case the answer must be no Hi Thomas - the trick to making holes & cut-outs is to do them first when you have more material in hand - just scoring around an access panel for example means I can drill a hole and score into the corners then hold the sheet in a hold & fold and neatly break out the panel. The flap ribs however were designed in PE so it may be you are seeing things I didn't actually make I moved onto start skinning the upper nose - this is aa complicaated little area with the big caarb intake and two gun fairings meaning it's not a simple task. one plus is that the anti-glare panel is painted over this so I had decided to not try and skin the gun covers but see if I could get away with fairing them into other sheeted areas.. ..first step was get a tape template of the central skin panel covering the carb intake & mark the rivet lines in situ so they are right vertically & horizontally.. ..the template is removed and put on a sheet where the borders are scored, rivets added and in this case a Prestone access paanel cut out.. ..with that panel laid down it sets the borders of the main upper cowling panels.. ..same process repeated.. ..both sides done at the same time so the rivet patterns carry over both sides & line up.. ..those panels were made up - it took a few tries to get them right and good neat panel lines where they meet top and bottom.. ..the black dyno tape is where I need to add material next time i try, and the top panel was perfect but I laid it down in the wrong position and it got stress wrinkles on removal so a hours work became scrap pretty quickly.. ..when they were right they were fitted.. you can see where the gun covers have just been cut around and a small nose panel added & faired into the Carb intake casting at the front.... ..then the skins were masked up ready to fill the gaps around the gun covers.. ..filled and primed with mr surfacer but sanded back.. ..and then a template used to score the panel line for the gun cover fairing.. ..and the nose cap of the fairing scribed & the whole lot cleaned up - I aalso went over any rivets that needed it.. ..not happy with how the raised rivets at the front of the main panel came out, but it is what it is... ..the panel behind this has two piano hinges, so I made up the full set and added the top one first, bordered by the hinges... ..then the side panels were added using the same masking & thin contact cement process.. ...both side panels added.. ..and the area is about as complete as I can get it before adding the wings & fillets as these need to be there for subsequent panels.. ..I guess its wings on soon and working up the considerable wing fillets.. TTFN Peter
  10. Such tragic news Mike, I am so shocked and my heart is just broken for you I read your post a few days ago and immediately sympathised as my wife goes into hospital on Tuesday for an operation for the same cancer and I thought how I felt for you and almost felt what you were going through. But this, this terrible news has just floored me. I can't imagine your pain and what you and your loved ones are going through My deepest sympathies, you are in my and I am sure everyone's prayers So sad Peter
  11. very nice job Craig - these are about THE most challenging parts when skinning and you have nailed it!
  12. Max, this model and those period pics are mega motivation the IP looks fab
  13. MRP do a nice colour called insignia white - its a sort of light ivory and worked great on my P51
  14. OMG - this is my wet dream project of yours Tom So, so glad to see it back and with a real kick-start using Cees's project This is going to be wonderful to watch and with those big gangly U/C legs going to be as much an engineering challenge as a modelling one great stuff Peter
  15. evening ladies Hi Jay - as little as possible! it's a pre-war NMF with old style USAAC markings and a nice striped rudder... ..I just can't bring myself to paint them.. (yet...) Hi Nighthawk - thank you it will be at Telford I expect - on the LSP stand as a WIP - will be putting the P51C in the comp and this one probably the year after.. so, to skin the nose area the anchorpoint is the exhaust panels so these absoloutely need to be in the right spot. I had made a PE panel for the stainless steeel panel that surrounds the exhaust outlets and used it to mark out the correct position of the aperture. I had made one earlier but it turned out it was in the wrong spot so I just filled in the hole and did it again.. ..the panel is taped down and the corresponding one on the other side put in exacty the same position.. ..the panel outline was scored so I could position it later... ..the exhaust pipes were made up from brass tube and filler to make a master to cast copies in resin - the actual outlet is an oval so it was compressed with pliers.. ..and as each side is different (they curve upwards on the V1710) two had to be made ..and with refining two masters were finished and put in rubber.. ..casting 12... ..the ports themselves were ground out with a dremel so the pipes are more hollowed and deeper and the whole lot primed.. ..used the panel positions to fix the exhausts after a base paint coat.. ..added the small rods between each one - there is a metal fairing in here too on the real one, but so little can be seen I skipped it... ..and then fixed the panels in position.. ..now that is done I can start on the nose area..:) TTFN Peter
  16. beautiful work Max - I fell in love with aircraft of this period when I did my Fury - seeing this come together has got me all tingly again Peter
  17. incredible!! I can't keep up with the progress you are making Jay and maybe thats my only word of caution - perhaps slow down a little, afterall this is the skin on YEARS worth of work - six months on an engine and 6 days on a paint job I think it looks wonderful by the way - i hate painting and can offer no advice I am afraid, but the finish you have is looking stunning, if very difficult to replicate i would also recommend getting those decals on soon - they are on the way as it is hard to put them on over a textured matt finish without them looking like 'stickers' stunning, and truly an inspirational build Peter
  18. evening chaps thanks for stopping by and your kind words lets get down to it Hi Jay - so the leading edges were riveted before annealing as I marked out the rivet lines on the tape template so used them to lay out the pattern while the metal was flat and stiff. Once fitted, even after sanding the imprints are still there and can be lightly gone over again if they fade.. the fillets? well this post is just for you... Chuck, I am blushing and humbled that such a hugely talented contributor here would say such things you really are too kind. The beauty of posting here is we learn from each other and inspire each other in equal measure and I feel I have got better since that Spit. If anything maybe I was punching above my weight but was very lucky it worked out. I don't think I will ever win at Telford again, that was just a surreal experience where stars aligned - an aircraft hadn't won for 5 years, an Englishman for even longer I think, plus it was a Spitfire so I think I just hit a sweet spot on the day Thanks again though Hi Denzil - hows things? I think this is the one - all I know is it's called Jade Long Runs though it doesn't say that on the page as far as I can tell so, onto progress.. I wanted to get the rear fuselage skinned so I could take care of the tailplane / fin fillets, so started making up panels - this one is one of two that surround the fuselage access door.. here all masked up ready for contact cement.. ..then completed the upper panel and the door - also added the panels behind the clear vision panels at the rear of the cockpit as these needed to replace the ones I made previously to represent the early version.. ..you can also see the foam pipe lagging I use to protect the litho trailing edges of the fin & tailplane and a tape template for the shorter top fuselage panel with edges & rivet lines marked out.. ..the door will have a piano hinge added later.. ..with the skin all around the tailfeathers completed it was time for the fillets - these are in 3 parts - an upper and two lower with a nice set of compound curves to work into the metal... ..here you can see how the skin panels have been recessed into the filler fillet I made a while back when I fitted the tailplane.. all this needs filling as all these edges and ridges would show through soft annealed metal if it was burnished over it.. ..you can also see the fillet outlines defined by tamiya tape.. ..P38 filler used to close the gaps.. ..sanded and used the curved blade in a scalpel to scrape away the filler to the tape edges so I knew where to feather into.. ..filling any little holes or divots.. ..shot of primer to check the surface is as smooth as I can get it.. ..masking removed and now I have a good clear surface to burnish the fillet parts onto.. ..the borders are then set out again with 2mm tape to give a demarcation ridge into the metal when burnished to determine the shape of the fillets.. ..the top part starts out as a sheet with a slot cut in it for the fin - then it is worked using hardwood or balsa blocks and where the curves are acute a tiny ball pein hammer, taping it to hold position as I go... ..here the shape is forming and some of the edges being defined by pressing into the tape borders.. ..initially, the metal looks creased and kinks, but normally it can be worked enough to get a good finish - this is why its so important to have a solid smooth substrate beneath it.. ..now the part has been cut and glued down.. ..the same process for the two lower fillets.. ..and after wire wooling and adding the rivets the job is done.. ..enjoyed that think I might move to the nose upper cowl as that has about the scariest metalwork coming in this model and I can get all the top p[arts done before I attatch the wings and get the lower panels sorted.. TTFN Peter
  19. Sorry to hear that Damian We found the same for my wife who is having an operation in September so thoughts are with you All the best Peter
  20. thanks chaps - just waiting for the 2nd test shot as PPD have been busy it's taking a while.. ..interesting idea.. ..there are parts of the Vb that lend themselves to being better in PE and parts that might be tricky.. I would be willing to look at it if someone can provide a canopy / windshield to test on - you will get it back unmarked and with a couple of sets if it works out just PM me if available Looking at the new planned Mk IX, may work for that too.. Thanks Peter
  21. afternoon all Hi OBG, thanks for dropping by - the tape is just decorators masking tape and the litho is 0.2mm so i guess there is a tenth of a mm in it - it is pretty close largely because it's slightly textured.. The litho is sheet aluminium used in the litho printing process - it's called Jade Long Runs and I got 100 sheets from Printing Supplies Direct I have no idea how to navigate their website or what their minimum order is, but Geoff (Ironwing here) put me onto them years ago and I just emailed a chap called Brian You can probably get it elsewhere & I have got it on ebay before, but that is after it has been used and I found when I abraded it with wire wool I was getting coloured hues in the metal (reds, greens, blues etc) so went straight to source recent work on the P40 has focussed on getting the cockpit 'pod' completed and onto the fuselage as this was holding up many other things. I got as far as skinning the tail feathers before I had to move on.. ..the filler fairings were slightly cut into so the skin will sit under the litho fairings that cover this union - I need to refill over the join or it will show through when burnishing down the fillets.. ..To get the cockpit pod oriented, I mocked up where it sat and added braces so I could assemble the instrument panel mounts and all the final components.. ..once that was fixed, I built out the IP mount and installed it.. ..now I knew the area I had to fit the guns into so made up the mounts and ammo bins into one assembly. The guns were little PE kits and the cocking levers (I assume) were ground with my dremel from sheet aluminium - at 6mm tall this was pretty hard ..the guns were then added to the assembly as were the throttle control rods and any final bobbins before the whole thing would be fixed in place on the fuselage.. ..the floor and control column also added - I can add the seat later.. ..I also removed the panels under the rear canopy glass as these are different for the early version I am doing and I had incorrectly added fuel & oil fillers... ..I actually installed the cockpit pod and filled it to blend it in before I realised I had it slightly out of position - very frustrating as I had to carefully remove it without damaging anything which took hours of concentration.. ..with it safely removed I also realised I should have got the windscreen area right before I mounted the pod, so it was a useful quirk of fate I got it wrong. I got the few drawings there are of the early windscreen and built up a 3D structure of templates - filled the bulk with balsa and then P38 filler... ..this was refined and a plastic card blank pulled to help set out the area where the windshield meets the fuselage skin. I will cast the blank in resin so I can polish it to a smooth finish before vacforming the windshield.. ..the card blank was used to add two structural 'ears' that appear on the forward cowling where there are two hatches on the upper surface.. by carefully positioning the blank I could CA where the contact was needed for the ears and know the windshield part will match with these.. ..the cotton is used to assure a true centreline through all components.. you can also see the damage on the forward fuselage where I had to chop out the poorly positioned cockpit pod.. ..the cockpit pod was finally fitted and faired in with the surrounding fuselage structure.. ..starting to look like a P40 now.. TTFN Peter
  22. Well Jay, you continue to amaze - this is all looking so real Going back to some of your questions about priming & weathering, I have a little experience that may be helpful from your note, you clearly know more about etch priming than I, but two things to watch for when I did my P51 wings were 1. the etch primer ages and becomes ineffective after 12 months - I guess its the active ingredients that start to wane, but make sure you get fresh stock (see Phoenix Paints in the UK for details), and 2. the etch paint needs time to etch, so apply it and move onto something else - I left the P51 wings for 4 weeks, which may be too much but what I am saying is don't prime and then topcoat immediately after As for weathering, again two recommendations 1. put some chipping fluid (or hairspray) where you want to see YZC after applying it - eg leading edges, around access doors etc - I would keep this quite restrained though and then after top coat gently wire wool ('0000' grade) the entire surface. What this does is give a lovely realistic sheen and takes paint off high spots like some panel edges, rivet tops or surrounds and where you have put a 'breakaway' layer like chipping fluid or hairspray, will leave just the YZC rather than the bare metal. trust me it is very effective. The second tip is flory dark model wash - this is a water based pigment that you just brush on, let dry and wipe off. Great depth can be found by wiping it off with a wet tissue or rag and by varying how much you wipe off you can control how weathered the surface is. On my P51 I virtually removed it, but it had already settlied in all the rivet heads and panel lines so looked very realistic Anyways, I would get back to the mule and test out these methods or any others until you are happy with what you see - I am sure the results will be stunning One question I have is how the rear fuselage will mount to the centre section? The panelling is so complete up to that point does it fit so well you don't need to do any filling or adjustment? TTFN Peter
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