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Here are some of others of the same aircraft I took back in 2012, if need be they can complement the ones from Panzerrob for that walkaround.

Chassis:

That's the spring...

And we have resin! Cheers, John

Busy week so far but managed to complete the basic camouflage scheme which is a bit different as 5F had from what I understand an experimental scheme quite different from a typical RAF scheme. Pretty happy with how its turned out so far and will definitely be a slightly different looking Birdcage Corsair that's for sure! Regards. Andy

Evening guys and gals, More progress on the mammoth B-52 project to update you on. I've been beavering away on the cockpit and flight deck of late and have built a basic interior using the Sanger seats with a few mods. I've also used the Sanger control columns even though they were, in my humble opinion, a little oversized: There's scope to add more detail here but life is too short to waste time on making things that'll never be seen! I've made and added the escape hatches for the ejector seats above the pilots: And then the canopy was protected whilst some filler was added to blend everything in: With the filler dry everything was sanded and blended in: I'm quite pleased with that - the blackout curtains made from kitchen foil look the part, too! As I'm making this as a late 1990's to early 2000's machine, I've also made and added the ALQ-155 fairing on the nose from Milliput - these have since been removed on current BUFFS due to various avionics upgrades. There's a little more sanding and some scribing to be done around this area, but I'm almost there with the forward fuselage now. Happy days. Tom

Finished this off this evening. I had some fun weathering her.

As it was in 2013, when I saw it. The paint was kind of fresh then, it is not the original painting and colors. Eight years of natural weathering seems to have given it a better looks, as the dark green is now more natural, but the light green and the tan need maybe another decade or so to come close the real thing

The cad drawings on their website show the brakes openable but looking at the aft fuselage part, Jetmads too seem to have changed their mind.

I could sure do with the SF version...

Starting in on the aluminum coat. Before: First phase: The "fabric" effect on the ailerons is pretty subtle. A little bit easier to see from a different angle. The ailerons are still a bit too shiny for me. I may mask them off and give them a shot of clear flat. But then I'm going to weather the whole surface to some extent, so maybe that's superfluous. We'll see.

I've been busy at work the last three weeks. But there has been small progress. Panel paint beginning. "Carpeting" in the baggage hold. Fuel injection lines and "spark plugs".

Photos are great, Rob! These photos are ones you took, right? If so, can I grab them and create an entry on the website? We have a walkaround section. That way they would be easier to find then searching for them within the forums.

Well, the Barracuda wheel set doesn't include a resin tail wheel and I decided I would prefer that. The Reskit wheels and the 'donor' (TBM-3) for the extra wing tanks arrived. So I guess I don't have any excuse for not starting.

Hi all, I hope it is okay if I post several Viggen photo's here! The quality isn't great, but maybe they can be of help for the Jetmads Viggen builders. Moderators, is this is considered a solution of this thread, please remove the photos! The photos were taken at Aviodroom in the Netherlands, were this aircraft is stored outside in the open. And finally 2 cockpit shots: As I said, the quality isn't great, but I hope you enjoyed them anyway! With regards, Rob

I finished this build today a bit before noon. It is one of the "Brown Box" WNW kits that they sold near the end of their existence last year. The aircraft represents the Albatros DVa flown by Hans Böhning, a 17 victory ace assigned to Bavarian Squadron 76b. I thought the color scheme was eye catching and wanted to try out the wood decals from Proper Plane, so decided to build the aircraft in those colors. I also used a Proper Plane "Prop and Pipe" set, as well as some Taurus spark plugs, Gas Patch turnbuckles and Spandaus and HGW seatbelt. The figures are by Model Cellar and were fun to build and paint. Ernest The first of a few "in progress" photos. The engine has not been weathered yet. I scratched the ignition wires and control cables. Close up of the engine, still in factory fresh condition.

I know I'm a little late to the JB Weld party, but I've known people that fixed cracked engine blocks with that stuff. I haven't gone that far but I've used it to fix broken pot handles, cat littler scoops, toilet flush handles and other things essential to survival in the modern world. One of the few things that actually lives up to its claims.

When the WWII RN is rejecting a carrier plane, you know it's got some serious issues...

For the blades I did airbrush it on- I thinned the snot out of it, but it worked really well! cheers Pete

The thing about the arming lever on the seat is that it has a strong spring and may cause injuries if untrained people, like museum workers or visitors, somehow try to close it. That's why it is always kept closed.

Hey all- almost ready to hang the blades. A shot of AK Dust & Dirt thinned with mineral spirits got that dusty look I was aiming for. You can see the blade on the far right is showing its bottom side- no evidence of The brass rod(s)showing- JB Weld to the rescue! cheers Pete

Personally, I always find it somewhat rewarding to see a biplane fuselage at a stage where it can sit on its own legs - it feels like a defining moment! Great work on the side intakes Peter - more challenges overcome! I assume that the panel cut out (which appears to be equal-distant on photographs) is simply to allow easy panel removal and installation? I hope that your exhaust repair goes smoothly and without too much difficulty. Your work is amazing in its ingenuity and I hope that your techniques and experiences are captured somewhere and are highlighted in huge letters so that we will always be able to readily find and refer to them! (not just for me, but also for all current and future model makers as well). Thank you for sharing your inspirational work. Cheers Derek

Thank you everyone for your feedback on my build. I'm glad you're all enjoying it so far. I've gotten the first paint stages done now. Started with the normal pre-shading of the fabric sections, then laid down a base coat of "silver dope." I used MRP Super Silver and MiG Traffic Grey for the dope paint. Then it was mottled with straight Traffic Grey, and blended back with one more coat of the dope. The mottling is very subtle, but it's there, and changes via light and the direction you see it at See, slight shift in the viewing angle, and it disappears into the background That's all for now. I'll try to get the metal panels done during the week, then probably the topside green next weekend. Let me know what you think. Matt

Hi Guys welcome to my new project ! In the spirit of always trying 1 new thing per build (aka self torture) here is what ive decided to try for the first time, A Dual build! I first went over the top with this idea by building a Academy and a Hasegawa 1/32 F-18, then realizing that just 1 of those boxes is biger then my bench i placed them back in the stach and pick out these 2 build details : 1 X HobbyCraft F4U-1D OOB 1 X Trumpeter F4U-1D HGW VF-17 Decals 1x vector cowling paints will be a mix of humbrol and AK real colors I had in mind to try to find some leftovers from Tamiya kits (engines and cockpit ) as ive seen many modelers replace them with the brassing, but i was rellly motivated to stat these now. But if anyone has spares ... Wink wink Hope you enjoy! here is a tease of the second night at the bench

I hate to say it but this was kind of brought upon themselves by the poor business decisions they made (IMHO). I WAS a customer for some time before going to other options who could better fill my needs. Still sad. Mark Proulx

Thanks, Jeff and Chuck. I was just expecting the crisp demarcation, and will work on how to do this, but will weather these and see how it looks. Speaking of landing gear, I got my little package from Hiroboy.com, which is a model car website. I was kind of blind ordering, looking mostly for parts I can use on the brake lines of this and other upcoming planes, so I did order a variety. I figured that if the parts, which are labeled as suitable for larger scale cars, were too big, I can just use them on engines. Here's what I got. First up is a resin 90 degree .8 mm hose joints, HD03-0237, that I thought would be perfect for the hard line to rubber line joint at the oleo scissors, Tough to judge it here on my office desk, but I think these are around the right size, that's a large paper clip for scale I will put a landing gear leg next to one this evening if I get the chance. I think these might work. Next up, These hose fittings, "Top studio 1.1 mm Hex Fitting, Tapered" Tough to show the detail and give any size perspective, so I took another one with that paper clip opened to show the diameter. They look like they would do well as the terminus of the rubber lower hose to 90 degree elbow at the oleo, but I need to see them on teh legs to make sure. I think these will work nicely at the transitions. Next we have "Non plated hose joint set", this is an assortment of shapes and sizes of straight and angled connectors, including Ts Here's a shot showing the assortment Lastly, I got some electrical connectors, sort of greeblies for adding detail, but with no specific use planned I had sort of forgotten that I was waiting for these, now I can select which parts look the part and confirm that they are the correct size for what I want, but I am pretty excited.

The most frustrating part of the whole build was the sliding portion of the canopy. I've rebuilt it several times now. I wanted to eliminate the step at the bottom of the kit clear part, which fit into the skirt around the bottom. The front frame on the kit part also didn't sit properly against the opening of the bubble, leaving small gaps on the side and top. I sanded the entire step off the bubble, which required adding a strip on the inside of the skirt to hold it. Once I was happy with that the bubble had to be polished and dipped in Future. Once the bubble was attached I had to build the framing at the front, once again out of plastic card shaped to the opening. The rivet pattern was redone using a riveting tool. It's not perfect, but it's better. I wish there was a replacement aftermarket canopy available... Reskinned: Primed and rivets applied...one more light sanding to level things out. Better, good enough...don't want to jinx things by doing anything else. Also had to create a set of rails to replace the "working" versions in the kit. Evergreen "I" beams sanded and drilled.

How are these decals printed? From the picture, the colour of the sample doesn't even appear to be consistent across the entire area, so that makes me think the colour on the sheet - and therefore the logo - may be off anyway. The sample certainly doesn't appear to match the photo of the real aircraft as it looks "stonewashed". The logos are small, so any colour difference is likely to be not very noticeable, so I would go with a colour that matches your perception of what you can see across a wide range of photos. Having said that, if the all the aircraft Compass had were placed side by side, they might not even match eachother:) Comparing the three colours you have sprayed, I think MrColor 328 looks the closest to the photo, and isn't too far off the decal sample in terms of brightness (i.e it's not too dark or light) although the hue is more washed out on the sample.

Would have thought the explosive charges for the seat would have been taken out for museum aircraft, so it doesn't matter which position the arm/disarm lever is in. Oh, and I certainly wouldn't use that aircraft as a reference for matching colours...

Putting some color to my adversary today! This is a custom mix of a yellow from an ‘81 Ford truck and gloss white. 3 to 4 light coats is covering nicely. In the close up photos the 1:1 scale bird has some serious fading of the yellow, plus some corrosion type patches and strips that I’ll add before i do the other camo colors i think. The strips of primer showing are where the green and brown will go to try and get some of the variation i see in those colors.

I think that's code for she wants one.

Superb pics - my wife looking over my shoulder just mumbled something about "Bloody Idiot".. Hmmm, she may have a point

Tired of looking at this one on the SOD. Got a hand full of paper towels, cup full of Mr. Color Leveling Thinner and sat out on the rear porch. Half hour later, i got this. Stuff took off the paint, clearcoat and decals quickly and with no damage anywhere. Will have to refill a couple of spots, but this is close to repaint as is. Now i have to think what i will do for decals. Really want the Norm 72 scheme, i'm pretty certain i have the needed decals, but after the trouble with silvering, may rethink this...anyway, i will restart this build. Don

Airframe under a coat of primer and pre shaded. looking at colour pictures of these birds the lower surfaces do seem to have a greeny hue to them on many images, these were painted with US mixed paint as close to FAA spec as possible so I decided to go with a lightened mix of Tamiya Sky. Hoping to get the rest of the colours on over the Bank Holiday weekend. Regards.Andy

Hi all, This kit does present the modeler with challenges, to put it mildly. The supplied kit itself comprises of parts which are solely resin and unlike many more up market companies, ‘Omega Models’ do not reinforce parts, such as wing struts, with metal rods. This makes the supplied resin struts very weak when flexed. All of the resin parts have mold ‘flash’ that will need to be removed and larger items, such as the wings, do have some warping, which is not uncommon in resin kits. The kit does not supply many parts required to make this an accurate model, for example an instrument panel, all of the necessary wing float struts, all of the centre engine bearer struts etc. The lower wing one piece molding is not the correct shape according to the drawings supplied. The kit parts have no locating pegs or holes, which can cause alignment problems during assembly. The instructions supplied for assembling the model are virtually non-existent, being only several sheets of photo-copied data with only one section view of the fuselage internal parts. The remaining sheets are the kit contents and basic three-view drawings and some small colour profiles.The kit instructions do not give assembly instructions, apart from the two side drawings and they only list parts with no exploded assembly views. Also, some of the information refers to different versions of this aircraft, not the kit supplied Series 2 (1552) model. The decals supplied are of reasonable quality but are not the normal, ‘cookie’ cut slide transfer. Instead the decals are printed on sheets of carrier which covers the entire sheets. Therefore if used, each decal will need to be carefully cut out from its sheet before application to the model. Also the surface of these decals is easily damage, such as from being scratched, so if used, care is needed handling these decals. The kit does supply any ground equipment, such as a basic ‘beaching’ trolley or trestles. Anyway, The basic hull has been prepared as well as a modified 'Wings Cockpit' figure (LSK 07A). Mike

Awesome! That looks killer Pete.

Pete, do you airbrush the AK dust on? I only ask, as I’ve only just discovered the revelation of spraying their filters onto paint jobs to alter hues and tones.

One of my major wants was the Hobbycraft 1/32 A-36 Apache. l got the P-51 and the 51A models but trying to get the A-36 was a long time coming. On the weekend l was checking my Ebay lists when the kit popped up at a reasonable price and with buy it now button. Of course yours truly jump right on it and it is now making its way to the stash which is in boxes right now for the big move to bigger digs. Maybe l can sneak it into one of the boxes before the wife sees it lol Hacker

Marder III please if this is OK with Gazzas Rick

Rib tapes, the old skool way Richard

Yet another kit from my ongoing deal(s) with LSP_Ray. While I have this same vehicle as a Tamiya version, that kit suffered from a severely short shot front fender, almost impossible for me to fix. Since I have sort of a "thing" for SPAA weapons, this kit, weighing roughly two pounds, sure fits the bill, and I'm thrilled to have it. Thanks a bunch, Ray.

Thanks for sharing. A LOT of memories just came flooding back and too many stories to tell (2058 and the Jedi Transition was one of those special spots). I agree w/ Pig too btw--you were always too busy to actually pay attention to anything other than the task at hand. That being said, I vividly recall a flight off Western Australia. Probably a couple hour drive north of Perth/Freemantle. We happened upon a small group of four wheelers parked on a moon shaped cove. We circled back around and gave them a good 15 minute air show before proceeding inland with our hair on fire. No people to file noise complaints and no controlling agency (ATC) that I remember. After herding roos down low we headed back to the boat. One of those flights that made you ask yourself, "And I'm getting PAID for this?!"

No pictures, as I was on a roll. I finally got the pneumatic lines made--they were a bear. Took me five attempts to get it looking acceptable. Problem being that it's 3 lines in parallel, which is pretty hard to do, even in real life. Once that was done, I actually got the back cockpit together and stared futzing around with the front cockpit. Hence the reason for no pics--went from exasperation to the 'zone' and kept on going. It's actually kind of fun to sort through the puzzle in my mind and figure out what goes where, and how to make the pieces. Pictures soon!

Decals on, which came from the spares box. Lathered up in Mr Mark they went down without too much of a fight. Now onto the weathering. These things got pretty filthy, so I've been washing with pigments, chipping the paint and I'll paint in some repaired areas and fading later.

Last version , dark yellow as a base. This is how it will be

Painting continues. This time with some Tamiya Sky. Followed by Tamiya XF 22 grey. It's meant to be RLM 02 but its much closer to slate grey and works well for this purpose. More masking, then some Tamiya XF 24 which suits pretty nicely for dark sea grey. Right, not too bad. Some touch ups with the brush to do, but otherwise it will be onto gloss and decals.

Thanks for the paint recommendations folks. In the end, I just shot it with Tamiya primer. I think with a bit of weathering, it'll look the part. Here's the slow March. First layers of paint...need to weather it and blend some more. And some washes. -Peter

This one is eventually finished. I still need to get a figure and base before posting it. In the mean time a few photos with the iPhone. Enjoy Nick