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John Everett

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About John Everett

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  • Website URL
    http://www.coldbasementmodels.com/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denver, Colorado, USA
  • Interests
    Hiking. Biking. Models

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  1. Just realized I've not updated in a long time. There's progress: There's been even more added to the engine bay. But I don't have pictures of it yet. Thanks for watching! John
  2. I meet a lot of modelers who say they have this kit. But none of them seem to be building it. I'll be adding some interior detail.
  3. Thanks for your interest and for following the build. It wont go all the way through. There's still the need to break the sheet along the scribed line. Depth: about 8-9. This doesn't matter so much. Just so long as it's anything greater than about 7. Speed: slow. I set speed to 1. I have lots of time. Force: Middle. I use about 15 or 20. It is just plastic and doesn't require too much to cut. Passes: 2 or even 3. Two seems to be best. 3 or even 4 (I tried that once) doesn't seem to make much difference. Yes - Premium blade. The blue top blade is sold as a "durable" or "tough" blade. (It's also almost twice the price.) It does seem to last longer than the standard. And, obviously, a new blade is better than an old one.
  4. With the Cessna finally finished I've been able to turn more attention back to the long languishing Grumman Tiger (1/20). I've been making good use of the Silhouette Cameo cutter for wings and control surfaces. .015" styrene in the Cameo Repeating shapes are laminated into a solid whole.
  5. Cessna is done. A few pictures here and the whole series (and everything else- including the red Cessna - I've ever built) on the website link. http://www.coldbasementmodels.com/?page_id=334
  6. This is MRP brand lacquer. In midnight blue and light blue (some kind of Russian interior color) MRP is available at this site in the US: http://www.hobbyworld-usa.com/Store/index.php?controller=history
  7. Painted the Skyhawk logo using a mask from the Silhouette Cameo cutter as well as added the MRP light blue to the trim stripes. Cowling removable via magnets.
  8. Ready for decorative paint. And a public service message about the Silhouette Cameo cutter and similar devices. The kit comes with a nice vinyl sheet of letters in the proper size and font. But it doesn't cover all of the possibilities which I need for this model. (I'll need several more # 3's) First the sticky vinyl letters were placed on a black paper background and scanned on our printer/scanner. The Cameo cutter uses free software ( https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/software ) which allows any image to be imported and manipulated prior to cutting. Here, my scanned letters and numbers can be resized, duplicated, arranged and changed if needed. (Note that the slant of the letter is different between the left and right side of the airplane. - This is where the kit's included letter sheet was invaluable.) If you're cutting film from a large roll, you may be able to forego using the sticky mat which comes with the cutter (Shown here is a roll of Oramask 813. But there are dozens of brands out there. I like this stuff because it's slightly ridged and doesn't flop around too much when it's peeled from the backing paper.) Use the "frame" (a simple box drawn around the desired mask) to help place the individual letters with correct spacing and alignment. Peel the "box" away and leave the letters in their proper position ready for the dark blue paint. I'm waiting now for my buddy to confirm that this is what he wants before I paint it. If this stage is incorrect it can't be fixed. There's too much about the Silhouette Cameo cutter to try to explain here. But if you're interested in this system, they cost about the same as a large Wingnut Wings kit and they can scribe thin plastic sheet, as well. The best thing you can do is to download the free software from the link above and start tinkering. It takes about a day to learn and there's tons on YouTube.
  9. If you've never used a material called Parafilm, you may want to give it a look. It's sort of like clingwrap meets wax paper. Once you stretch the material it becomes slightly tacky and holds well to the smooth plastic of clear parts. I've used two layers here for safety. (Two layers also seems to make the stuff easier to remove after it's been in place a couple of days.) Mister Surfacer and Mister leveling Thinner mixed about 40/60 respectively. Detail isn't bad for a 40 year old kit. We'll be painting it in this scheme with the dark and light blue and a US registration number: We haven't decide yet if we want the wheel pants or not. But there will most certainly be the Cessna logo on each wig tip.
  10. Update: Magnets! The friend for whim I'm building the model wants it displayed with the cowling closed. But it seems a shame to hide all that detail. So I've used tiny, rare-Earth magnets to allow the top half of the cowling to be removable. If you've not considered these little items for securing bombs or other externals to your Large Scale Models, you may want to think about it.
  11. The kit is a bit of a love/hate for me. The interior cabin, instrument panel detail and engine construction are fantastic. But there are dozens of small things which are most certainly right out of 1983. The attachments of the wing struts is rough and ill-fitting. You will need to carve and rebuild those places with epoxy putty. The transparencies fit quite well. But the plastic is thick and distorts the views to the inside of the cabin. The model uses long, squishy springs to attach the various flight control surfaces and flaps. (I think the idea was to allow the model to articulate.) But this results in surfaces not mating up very well and requiring a lot of minor hand work to get them to fit snug. There's also a lot of surface detail which would be obvious in a newer model which is absent here, such as pushrods and refueling handles. But it builds into a very unique and accurately shaped model if you're willing to deal with the multitude of minor inconveniences.
  12. An overdue update on the Cessna. I wouldn't have used the poorly sculpted pilot figure. But the friend for whom I'm building the model wanted one. Fuse is joined and cockpit enclosed. The engine will only have limited visibility so I'm not going all out with details.
  13. Brief update. Slight work on the interior and too much effort expended in making a truly bad pilot figure slightly less bad. (But still pretty bad.) Adding in a few fun details Once the "pilot" is painted, I've got a few more baggage details to finish and then can enclose the fuselage.
  14. I was at home most of the day and was able to spend much of the time with airbrush in hand. The interior is about 70% done t this point. The kit is based on the 1973 model of the C-172. The airplane we're duplicating (to the degree possible) is a 1977 version. Cessna factory propaganda from 1973: A similar propaganda picture from the later, 1977 model: This is a photo of the revised, 1977 instrument panel. The kit part isn't perfect. But it's pretty close. I've used clear, sticky disks cut from laminating sheet as instrument glass. I know from experience that this model has a very bad problem with "tail-sitting". One needs almost a quarter pound (120g) of weight in the front to keep it on the nose wheel. Fishing weights and lead shot do the trick here. This will be about half the required mass. For as much as the intense blue of this interior might bother me, 1977 did offer the buyer "other options". The two halve may be enclosed by the end of tomorrow. If so, we can expect the exterior painting to require a couple of weeks.
  15. I'm not sure, exactly. It was Aves. But any putty which hardens to an easily sandable consistency would work just as well. The real trick is to wet-sand down to at least 2000 grit and then prime it with a filler primer like Mr. Surfacer cut about 50/50 with Mr. Leveling Thinner.
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