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John Everett

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About John Everett

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    LSP Member

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  • Website URL
    http://www.coldbasementmodels.com/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denver, Colorado, USA
  • Interests
    Hiking. Biking. Models

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  1. It's up on floats and the engine, at least three of the four cylinders, is installed.
  2. It turns out the floats I built were too large. I think I might have been using numbers for a larger set, like for the Cessna 206 or C-207. There were also some bad spots which I knew could be corrected if I made the commitment to constructing a new set. Thus, five days later, we have new floats! The red and grey parts of the paint scheme are also complete. I'm hoping to have at least the model finished by end of May. But then I've got to start getting work done on the 1/20 shop scene. Better, thinner float compartment hatch covers. (.005" styrene cut on the Silhouette Cameo.) Rivet lines done on the Cameo rather than with a rivet wheel. Second time around I knew what I wanted to change. Work will now switch around to airframe completion and then mounting to floats.
  3. Realized I've not updated the Cessna in a while. But if you're on Facebook you've probably seen these already. To help answer common questions about the vinyl masks and painting: 1. Cameo Silhouette cutter using the Silhouette Studio software (Free download if you want to goof around with it before spending the money on a cutter.) 2. Oramask 813 vinyl sheet (blue) 3. Painted with MRP brand paint mixed with a little Tamiya Gloss White or Gloss Red to increase opacity and thinned with a few drops of Mister Leveling Thinner to slow down the dry time and allow for smoother finish. All sprayed through a cheap-a$$ Iwata Neo. 4. Windows were masked with Parafilm. (Neat stuff. Looks like wax paper. But stretch it and it gets mildly tacky and sticks well to non-porus surfaces. Fun fact: Both the masks for painting AND the plastic sheet for the floats were cut with the Cameo.
  4. The black is just Tamiya Semi-gloss black (X-18). The "Cessna tan" is mostly Tamiya Buff (XF-57) with just a little brown to darken it slightly.
  5. The instruments are just images stolen from around the internet, arranged carefully with Microsoft Paint (or similar program) and then printed at best quality to photographic paper. The plastic sheet of circles was cut on an Silhouette Cameo cutter. Additionally, I want to open up some of the inspection panels for the model. Drill out the spot for the inspection cover and then add a small sheet plastic ring, cut on the Silhouette Cameo. The blue stuff is a vinyl masking film called Oramask. I'm hoping to be able to use for for the inspection covers after it's been painted.
  6. The two halves of the airplane are together. I was able to make contact with the current owner of the airplane which I wanted to replicate. He was good enough to send me photos of how the airplane currently appears.
  7. An update to the Cessna. It may be a few days before I know how I'm going to go for the color of the interior. But there's a lot I can still get done if preparing the cabin for a maintenance diorama. Replaced the kit floor (bad fit) with one which fits a little better. This is how I'll be displaying the model, interior still in, but carpet and seats removed. There were a dozen ways to handle the interior trim of the C-172. In this case I'm planning to go with a combination of hard plastic headliners and trim overlapping fabric headliners. (Early to mid-1970's style) Examples of plastic panels over fabric liners.
  8. About 1mm thickness is the heaviest you can get a reliable break in the plastic. Most of the time I'm using it on 1/2mm and 1/3mm. 1/3mm is what's pictured above but the walls and main bulkheads of the float bodies are 1mm for strength.
  9. Generally, yes. These won't be the amphibious version, though. I was worried that wheels installed in the floats would be a weak spot and eventually have trouble holding up the weight of the model. I couldn't find any cross sectional views for Wipline floats, only the most general dimensions. So I'm calling these "Wiplineish". They're close but not perfect.
  10. I blogged two other copies of this kit here on LSP. This third one will be considerably modified from what came in the box and be mounted atop a set of floats. Parts are scribed on the Silhouette Cameo cutter using their free download software, Silhouette, Studio. Slow and careful follow up with a #11 can help a lot in safely removing fragile parts after they've been scribed on the Cameo. The wire segments are solidly CA'ed into each mounting position and then each wire is anointed in epoxy and slid into the tubes until set. The foam core jig holds it all in place. Wallace approves. The final paint scheme hasn't been decided yet.
  11. It's done. And it's a good as we might expect from a model first produced almost 50 years ago. (Documentation contained in the box indicated that this particular model might be more than 40 years old.) And for my next trick! ----- Not actually sure yet. I still have another copy of that 1/20 Cessna SkyHawk.
  12. GeeWhiz. Has it been two months already? Paint is on and much of the heavy work is complete. I'll finish up the details and get it photographed in the next week or so. Window to hull fit here...not so much. I think the fuselage side may have warped a little during its four decades of storage. But this side fit very well. I started work on the base this morning. I'm not sure how much effort I want to make there. But I'm thinking yachtboard helipad.
  13. Just realized I've not updated in a long time. There's progress: There's been even more added to the engine bay. But I don't have pictures of it yet. Thanks for watching! John
  14. I meet a lot of modelers who say they have this kit. But none of them seem to be building it. I'll be adding some interior detail.
  15. Thanks for your interest and for following the build. It wont go all the way through. There's still the need to break the sheet along the scribed line. Depth: about 8-9. This doesn't matter so much. Just so long as it's anything greater than about 7. Speed: slow. I set speed to 1. I have lots of time. Force: Middle. I use about 15 or 20. It is just plastic and doesn't require too much to cut. Passes: 2 or even 3. Two seems to be best. 3 or even 4 (I tried that once) doesn't seem to make much difference. Yes - Premium blade. The blue top blade is sold as a "durable" or "tough" blade. (It's also almost twice the price.) It does seem to last longer than the standard. And, obviously, a new blade is better than an old one.
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