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About jenshb

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    Hooked For Life

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  1. Aha...that was a new one to me. Thanks for pointing that out Kagemusha.
  2. The Academy kit was first released as a C, then as a Sufa with AFV CLub releasing the kit as a D Block 52+ with Republic of Singapore Air Force decals. There is a separate tailfin for the Sufa/Block 52+ and a tailfin with the wide base for the C and D models. The fuselage has a flat spot that corresponds to the larger "footprint" of the C/D tailfin base. An A/B tailfin would require a new fuselage preferably as the panel lines either side of the tailfin base are different.
  3. Like how you illustrate your changes on the model with very clear reference photos. Well done. Jens
  4. Is this set available anywhere? Won a Hunter in the raffle (thanks reconspit!), and thinking of converting it to the prototype...
  5. It is interesting to compare this Eurofighter kit with their Rafale. The Rafale is gorgeous (lacking only proper air intakes), but the Typhoon... it's almost like Revell couldn't be bothered trying. I'm wondering if Revell decided to make a better kit of the Rafale than what Heller would do to steal their future sales, whereas they knew Heller wouldn't make a Typhoon...
  6. Since there is still no two-seat F-16 from Tamiya, we can conclude that life isn't fair
  7. I have the Sufa kit, and it gives you pretty much all the parts in the box for a regular D with the wide wheels (no "flat" main undercarriage doors included, so only possible to make a Block 40 and above) - the instructions show a long list of parts not for use. You can build it with either a GE or P&W engine as both types of intakes and exhausts are provided, though I would recommend the Zactomodels corrected intake for either as they are a great improvement (check out the Zactomodels website) and an Aires GE F110 exhaust. I think the wheels for the Sufa are unique to that variant, so you may want to source aftermarket wheels for a regular D. Res-Kit have announced F-16 wheels in 1:32; the early A/B wheels, current AM/BM wheels, Block 40-52 and the Sufa wheels. The Block 40-52 and the Sufa wheels look identical to me, and unfortunately they don't seem to cover the earlier Block 40 wheels that look similar to the JASDF F-2. If I have missed anything out or wrong, feel free to correct, but these are the steps to make a USAF D: Step 1-4 - the kit only gives you the ACES II seats with the fixed pitot tubes on the headrest so you may want to modify these if your subject has the later/current flip-out type. Step 5 - this shows the Normal Shock Inlet (NSI) that is applicable to all P&W engined and early GE powered aircraft. The latter would require the "flat" gear doors however. If your subject has the MCID (aka "BIg mouth") intake, use the corresponding parts on the runners, or the Zactomodels improved parts. Omit part K28, and if applicable replace with part D37. Step 6-8 - build as per kit. However, the compressor, part H1, looks more like a GE F110 to me rather than the P&W F100, part no C65. Step 9 - the raised spine is not needed, so replace that with the fairing, part K17. Use part K53 to plug the hole as per the instructions. Step 10 - do not fit the conformal fuel tanks, but fit K35 - the gun panel. Step 11 - open the holes inside the nose if your subject has the IFF aerials (aka "bird slicers") fitted. And join the upper and lower fuselage, trapping the cockpit. Step 12-14 - undercarriage, no change there. Step 15 - omit parts K7 - K12. The instructions will have you fill the exhaust outlet in front of the port main gear well. Don't. Fit part C55 instead. Step 16 and 17 - This builds up the P&W exhaust and fits it to the fuselage. Omit the photoetched parts as well as K36. Choose closed or open speedbrakes. Step 18 - Assemble the wings - remove the "beer can" antennas from the leading edge of the wing if not applicable to your subject. The static dischargers (parts B13) are better off to be added a lot later in the build. Step 19-20 - assemble wings , flaperons and stabs to the fuselage. Step 21 - replace the Sufa tailfin with parts B11 and B12 that has the complete tailfin. Add the rear parts B7 and B8 as USAF vipers don't use the parabrake housing, parts B1 and B2. The outlets, parts B14 and B15 must be added to the tailfin base in front of the blisters - their location are marked on the fin with pegs. Step 22 - radar if you fancy showing that off. Step 23 - instrument panel glare shield for front and rear cockpits. Add K5, K29 and L17 if your subject has the HUD repeater box. Step 24 - build as per kit, but replace parts M18 and M19 with D49. Step 25 - add the ladder if you want. Step 26 - add the "bird slicers" if you opened up the holes in step 11. Omit parts M11, M17 and PE4. Do not use parts M20-M23, but use parts L18 instead. Step 27 - Add the LAU-128 wing tip launchers (part F29). The kit provides two of the older style launchers (parts J46) as an alternative. Don't know if the USAF is mixing these launchers, so check your references. The legal load when mixing AMRAAMS and Sidewinders is AMRAAMs on the wingtips, and that requires the LAU-129 launcher on the wingtip. Step 28 - The USAF does not use the 600 gallon tanks, only the 370 gallon tanks. The kit provides the later/current style pylon for stations 3 and 7, but not the PIDS/ECIPS. They don't seem to be a common fit to USAF Vipers anyway. Step 29 - add air to ground munitions if you feel like it. Step 30 - assemble fuel tanks, but save the 600 gallon tanks for another day. The AN/AXQ-14 pod is a guidance pod for the AGM-130 I believe. Step 31 and 32 - the instructions show the AIM-120B, but you can build the AIM-120C by using the smaller fins also on the runners (parts F16,17 front and F47, 48 rear). The USAF does not use the Python AAM, but 2x AIM-9L/M are on the runners too. Step 33 - this adds the Litening II targeting pod and the AN/AAQ-13 LANTIRN navigation pod. The LANTIRN targeting pod (parts E26, 27, 31, 32, 39, 40, 43, 44 as well as the Sniper pod (parts K4, K6, K13-16 and L20) are included in the kit too. Step 34 - adding pilots And then it is just a matter of painting and finishing your model. Jens
  8. Another clue to a painted finish is the panel surrounding the exhausts - that tends to be darker than the surrounding panels on bare metal aircraft, so I agree these must have been painted silver/aluminium.
  9. How well do the gear doors fit in the closed position? The separate leading edge slats are a nice touch for a dynamic in flight display. What is the plastic like? I have heard horror stories about their F-86K that doesn't bond properly...
  10. Oh, a Hunter! That could be interesting...and a Cold War Jet to boot... Thanks to Reconspit for donating it. Jens
  11. That's a rather blunt leading edge and a good fix. It's one of these things that once seen cannot be unseen, and with all the other effort you're putting into the model, would annoy you if going uncorrected. Jens
  12. Maybe the pilot was a great storyteller...? Or the chap who applied the zap was?
  13. Any connection with Shakespeare? https://biography.yourdictionary.com/articles/why-is-shakespeare-called-the-bard.html
  14. Didn't they say they would also be releasing a 1:72 Boeing 707? That will be one heavy lump of resin...
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