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About jenshb

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  1. Been there done that...now I keep my models out of the oven:)
  2. ResKit also make 1:32 scale wheels for the F-5A - yes, the A. When I queried about this via their Facebook page, they seemed to know "something" without spilling any beans.
  3. Well done for learning CAD - now you can make (almost) anything!
  4. Astonishingly good! If you need some representation of stitching under the rib tapes, could you apply Archer rivets first and then a strip of decal film? The HGW rivets will probably be too "flush" to give definition.
  5. What about the Hataka Swedish colours? They are available as lacquers too.
  6. The MD-80 series was to my knowledge only available in two fuselage lengths; the 81/82/83 (differences were internal) and the shorter 87. The MD-87 had an extra bit stuck to the top of the fin that is shared with the MD-90 series.
  7. Another terriffic race car from your hand Pascal...
  8. One method I have used in the past is to apply an acrylic clear coat over the colours, and instead of MicroSet, I brush some Tamiya acrylic thinner (X-20A I believe) over the area where the decal goes. This dissolves the acrylic clear coat and turns it slightly milky, then apply the decal over it. The dissolved clear coat will glue the decal to the model. Also, the Tamiya acrylic thinner will act as a solvent to soften the decal and make it conform. One word of warning though - you need to act quickly to ensure the decal is in the right place before it softens to the point wher
  9. Don't know how I missed this thread, but have looked through all pages. Fantastic crisp and clean and neat work!
  10. Just imagine what they could do with a couple of squadrons of Spitfires...:)
  11. The Doyusha kit was first off the block for injection kits. Welsh Models brought out a vacform way before, which I think is better in terms of shape and proportions. Detailwise the Doyusha kit is also a bit "clunky". The Minicraft I would say is a slight improvement on the Doyusha kit, but still not as refined as the scale would require. Both of these are -200s. The Zvezda kit (also released by Revell) is the -300ER version and in terms of detail and moulding is far, far better. Don't know anything about the Eastern Express kit, but they tend to be more "limited run" in nature.
  12. Those vents came out looking good! It's an exercise in patience and perseverance, but it's paying off.
  13. I think Tigger made the same discovery about white spirit dissolving decal film - in his case it was Tamiya decal film for an F-117. I tried to do the same on a couple of decals from the Tamiya F-14, and while it removed the decal film after a bit of rubbing, it also removed some of the inks. Luckily it was an experiment with surplus decals:)
  14. -38 would be the original customer number - presumably QANTAS, and the (ER) would be Extended Range. Boeing designated the last two numbers for customers which they retained whatever aircraft they ordered. Braathens SAFE had -05, so their 737-200s they ordered in 1969 had the designation 737-205, with the added QC for the airframes with a cargo door on the forward port fuselage to allow them to be quickly converted to carry cargo instead of "self-loading cargo". Later, BU operated 737-405, 737-505 and 737-705s and then they went belly up.
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