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Hello all, This is my attempt at the Revell kit with Quickboost exhaust, Eduard set and HGH Seat belts Paints: model master and AK real colors. This was the first-time using AK paints since I cannot get the model master any longer. With that said, I really enjoyed using the AK and have started to buy more. The decals came from one of the Kagero books. I also riveted the skin. Thanks for looking. Rod

Hey there! It's been a while again... beside playing around with useless stuff I'm not going to finish anyway, I managed to make some progress on the Twosair. I have decided to close the forward fuselage before attacking the cockpit as it'll remain easily accessible with the fuselage closed. So out came the automotive body filler and the scribing tools for a first sanding and scribing session. I will have to further modify the foward fuselage as the radome and the are a just behind it are not circular enough in section. Note the "excellent" fit of the Aires avoinics and wheel bays. All of them are between 2 and 2,5mm short; funny enough, the height is OK. Another view at the Aires parts. The corrected intake looks rather good but in this view, the slightly misshapen radome and front fuselage section are obvious. This will be adressed next.

Well, didn't feel like sanding. So painted the tail instead! Oddly enough a 1/48th Aardvark from the Furball sheet fits perfectly. (Not saying its too big for 1/48th, they just went through various sizes as all the antennas were added to the tail). Also dis the nose while I was at it. Really not a fan of rhe black noses, but thats what the squadron had at the time. The scratch built donkey d*** turned out pretty well i think! Peter

Since I no longer have a deadline of Aug 18 to complete this I have slowed progress. But there is some progress. I have build a rotating bomb bay from plastic sheet that fits into the opening on the bottom of the aircraft. Onto this I have added 3 3d printed racks. I then added some additional details with plastic sheet and assorted bits. And with some bombs in place. Leading edge slats. Slowly but surely, Dan

While waiting for some hobby tools to come in to continue work on Wildcat 097 I began to keep my promise to the crew chief of Super 62, Paul Shannon and build his MH-60L "Rude Dude". Rude Dude was the original Super 62 in Mogadishu, but was down for an engine change when the Oct.3rd mission began. Here's a pic of Rude Dude in Somalia with TF-160. So tonight I started on the cabin and cockpit area. The cockpit floor was painted Tamiya NATO Black and the non-slip stripes were painted Tamiya XF-54. The cabin floor was just shot with a gloss coat so I can lay a AK wash down into the crevices and tiedown areas when it's dried. 1 small step in the beginning. More weathering will come later. Chow for now! Tim

Yes those Speys are quite different at the front. A chap on Britmodeller used to work on them and called them ECU Guide Vanes. Here is the first test print, yes they were the CAD images. Take a look at Kerrys skills! Going to be tricky to paint! Thanks Damian, that means a lot from you buddy! Thanks Thanks Kev, I really appreciate that. I need to work fast though before my 32nd P-3 Orion is here, or I might get distracted! LOL, thanks mate. Hey was it a 32nd Mossie you brought? And this is just a quick pic to show the blending of the Tamiya Kit section and the WH conversion as well as correcting the panel lines. Once I have stopped being so fussy on this area I can rivet it. Then onto the cockpit...did I mention I hate doing cockpits? Thanks again gents, your likes and comments mean the world to me!!!!! Cheers Anthony

Hi all! Another few weeks have passed and time for another post!....done quite a bit so it will be a big post! I have finished both waist guns except for the ammunition belt which I will have to think about as it won't be easy! First off I had to make the swivel mechanism that holds the gun in the perspex....so this first photo shows the wooden stick I will use!....just thought you might like to see the stick!!!! After sawing a piece off and drilling a hole and sanding....this is how it looked.... Next photo shows the 2 plates that the swivel mechanisms are bolted to... here we have it glued to one of the window frames.... The next photo shows a dry run of the fitting of the MG....and looking at it I must remember to take the sight post off the end of the barrel as that's for the MGs without the compensating sights on! I rummaged through my collection of clear plastic packaging and found a suitable piece to make the perspex for both windows apertures. I already half built the guns a few weeks back and now it was time to finish them off.... ....and here they are completed .... I had to do a little research on the K-13 Sperry Compensating sights that I wanted to add to these guns....so after searching the internet and gathering the photos together I started out on the sights... The sights took me a week to make as they are tiny and quite complicated but got there in the end....here are both the guns with the sights attached and all painted and ready to fit into the fuselage...... I glued both guns onto their mounts through the perspex and added a little more detail ..like the control cables (that I haven't a clue what they actually operate.....something to do with.... adjusting ...something!!) .... Any how here they are in the fuselage...... Going to have to rack my brains now for a solution on how to make the ammunition belts bend and twist from the ammo boxes to the guns.....so see you next year! All the best and thanks for looking in! Fozzy

thank you all small progress on the pit The only aftermarket im going to use are the belts from hgw Thats it for now Mark

WNF G10 at Planes of fame, unrestored cockpit, notice the wood floor and the asymmetrical bulky cannon cover, cheers

Back in May I was cruising along through life and modeling without too many cares. Making progress on my latest overly-complex 1/32 warbird. Then my wife was diagnosed with colon cancer - very much out of the blue, no reason to suspect anything wrong. Despite really wanting some sort of distraction at times, I found myself utterly unable to focus due to stress and lack of sleep. My manual dexterity was similarly shot. I was actually afraid to ride my bike for a while (I have been riding and racing for 40 years, for context) because my reaction times were so poor. So needless to say I had to hang up the modeling tools, and most everything else, for a while. Fast forward a couple of months and (I am thankful every day for this) my wife is recovering nicely post-surgery, with pathology indicating that the cancer was found early enough that it was removed completely and hopefully won't recur. Now that I'm not full-time on nursing her back to health any more, and I've finally recovered a bit from the stress (which was vastly more debilitating than I expected it to be), I wanted to try and get a bit of model mojo flowing again. I didn't feel up to diving back into my 1/32 Airacobra just yet, so I pulled something small and simple off of the shelf - I wanted something that just required basic skills, would involve no research, no scratchbuilding, no decisions. Seemed like this should fit the bill. It's a simple kit. That builds into basically this A/C: I'm afraid I didn't (still) have the presence of mind to take many pix while building - it was hard enough to remember how to do the basics & not screw them up... This is mostly assembled - I decided to attach pretty much everything but wheels, main gear doors, and props before painting. Looking pretty in primer... And with the fuselage painted gloss white Hoping it will come together quickly now. It's nice to be building again - contributes to life feeling more back to normal...

Blast from the past. Jake Melampy photo of yours truly climbing into the mighty viper. This is a learned-skill..literally someone has to show you how to do this the first time, or you’ll really embarrass yourself.

Well... Had I sanded them off prior to getting everything glued together, it would be a lot easier! It's just a lot of sanding--easy enough to do, but complicated if there's something in the way. Case in point, if you look at the port side pic above, you'll see the raised panel just in front of the stab. It's the last one to be obliterated, but I keep putting it off as the stabs are in the way. As for riveting, I'm keeping it simple and just going w/ what Tamiya had. If I'm sanding a particular area, I pre-drill them a bit deeper w/ a pin-vise. Same for panel lines--I just use a PE saw to make the lines a bit deeper. As for the ALE-29, I haven't a clue. I can't seem to find them on any pics--they're most decidedly there on their next deployment. Will have to dig back into the squadron history to see if it says anything. The toughest part about the Phantom and frankly anything flying over Vietnam in this era is the number of changes made to the airframes. Just when I think I have something figured out...Boom! I discover something else. There's likely a TON of stuff I've missed, but at the end of the day, it'll look like a B. Even better is that I think the scene will prevent people from digging too deep and realizing that certain rivets are missing. That's the hope anyway! -Peter

I made some more progress toward paint today. Today i focused on the fuselage stars and bars and the prominent “HV A” that bookend the stars and bars. this is, again, my first experience with vinyl masks. I didnt make these but i did recently buy a silhouette cutter, and i really like a lot about them. They are pretty transparent, so you can easily see panel lines and landmarks through the mask material, which helps in accurate placement. there are some difficulties, too. Particularly on masks with small cutouts, there is a tendency of the mask parts to grab and not let go, separating from the carrier tape and being left at a spot that is not where you want to affix the mask. unlike, say, a wet decal, the mask is ALWAYS sticky, not just before it sets up. It was difficult to get the hang of it. If you just lightly rest the mask on the surface, it moves with the slightest input, breath, a moved finger, etc. too much contact and, although it can be removed carefully, you cant just shift the mask a fee millimeters. If it really grabs, you need to carefully use a scalpel or similar, and make sure you are picking up all of the cutouts, and you basically start over. after doing several placements, and being happy with where they ended up, i started to get a feel for how much contact i could get away with. I could not figure out a way to just place the mask correctly. Every time, there was a need to tweak, for example, making sure the stars and bars were as close to horizontal as possible, or that the HV and A seemed level. Although you can see through the mask, its not “clear”, so you need to be touching the surface to see panel lines. The stick on them is excellent, they stay where you want them, and its easy enough to remove them, although tedious, i was positive they arent sticky enough to damage the surface. i ended up memorizing the relationship with the features the mask had on the left upper part of the cutouts, lightly let that part stick, then immediately did the same thing on the lower right corner of the mask. Then a quick height check, is the top of the A where it should be, then a panel line alignment, i.e. is the cross piece of the H Level, etc. now “all” i have to do is figure out the lower fuselage invasion stripes, then the wing stripes, then the flaps and gear doors, and its on to real paint. photos: the masks are cut for closed intercooler doors, and i have to check photos, but i think all i need to do is eliminate the door blue vertical line, as it would be concealed on a retracted door, and extend the white to the front edge of the door instead of a blue border. if that makes sense. thanks for looking! Bill

Cheers, Rich - and yes I'm a frequent visitor! Howdy folks, I've been busy working on the stabilisers of the big Sunderland of late. As usual, the first job was to scribe on the panel detail: I did contemplate removing and scratch-building the elevators, but there is some really finely moulded rib detail that is actually well worth keeping. I'll need to add the hinges and with a dark wash along the hinge line when painted, I think they will look fine. Each section was cut from the backing sheet and sanded to shape, ensuring the correct depth and thickness. As you can see, the fit was pretty good when test-fitted: Given the fact that the stabilisers are likely to get whacked periodically during the remainder of construction, I wanted them to be nice and sturdy so I have added a plastic card spar, as well as the usual scrap sprue treatment along the leading edges. I've also opted for a brass tube spar system that will fit through the fuselage and offer a really strong set up: The stabilisers were then trimmed carefully and added to the rear of the fuselage - careful consulting of plans ensured they are in the correct position: The careful trimming of the mating surfaces, along with the spar structure ensured only a lick of filler was needed along the fuselage to stabiliser join. She's starting to take shape now: She lacks a bit of stability at the moment, so I better get cracking with the fin... Until next time, Tom

https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10802007 Just a rebox of the Italeri GR.4 kit for the Japanese market. Looks like the only thing new is a couple of seated pilot figures. Italeri had previously reboxed the F-35A kit with Japanese markings, and has been doing it for a long time in their 1/35 armor range.

"Hi, I'm Snort," is how he introduced himself to me one day not that long ago. We were in the Draken hangar in Lakeland, Florida, and Snort had just flown one of their former Kiwi A-4Ks back from Nellis for a periodic phase inspection...Of course I knew who he was; I knew all about him, but had never met him. He was as matter-of-fact and down to earth as all the cliches. But he was different, and in the best ways. I suppose I absorb news like this similarly to how other people react to the news their favorite pop star has died suddenly...but I'm just snobbish enough to think that it isn't the same thing. I'd gotten to see Snort's F-86 airshow routine, and had long known of his legendary status in Navair history. I'm not sure legend adequately covers it. It's a gut punch and simultaneously a comfort that he was in an airplane, doing what he naturally did his entire adult life. Fair winds and following seas, amigo.

I'm still trying to come to terms with it. Even if you didn't know him, you knew of him. (NavAir, especially the Tailhook navy is a pretty small community). If you went to any airshow in the last three plus decades, you likely saw him perform. He always put on a hell of a show. Smokin' Joe Ruzicka has a good tribute here: Final F-14 Demo Crewman Remembers Legendary Tomcat Demo Pilot Dale "Snort" Snodgrass (thedrive.com) -Peter

Amazing! Juraj

I'm not sure if it has been posted already. But it might be of some interest here, I think: aeroscale.net/news - Insignia Paint Mask Set for 1/24 Fokker Dr.I Triplane 1/24th dnmodels.com - Insignia Paint Mask Set for 1/24 Fokker Dr.I Triplane – designed for MENG kits Juraj

Hi Everyone, I’ve been away (off grid) in Arizona for the last week but, now that I am back, work on the cockpit and other areas has recommenced. On the port side of the fuselage I completed the surround on the oil tank and drilled out the point where the filler goes. I used a piece of 1.0 mm styrene rod for the filler neck and punched out a 1.5 mm disc to represent the cap. Weirdly the image above doesn’t show the ‘3D’ nature of the modification. I’ll take some more pictures as I progress that will show it. Further progress was made on the port side framing. I put in the control rod that link the throttles in the front and back cockpits as well as the same for the elevator trim control: It was only after looking at this photo and comparing it to the real thing in the photos kindly provided by Max and Alain that I noticed the elevator trim control rod was positioned too low. So, once back in Virginia, I set to fixing that: Notice how much higher on the elevator trim lever the control linkage is? My fixed version is below: The eagle eyed will spot that the spherical knobs on top of the levers are also present in this shot as well as the control cable that goes to the engine. The knobs are made from ceramic balls scavenged out of a water filter. Just one filter will provide any modeller with a lifetime supply of 1/32 control knobs (and 1/32 ‘coal’ from the carbon chips that are also in the filter). Once those parts were in place I shot Tamiya grey primer over the frame and took a look at it with the 0.1 mm styrene floor in place: Then I took my first tentative look at how it may look when closed up: I had managed to get a copy of the Cox drawings in the last week. Max was absolutely right about the dihedral being wrong on the lower wing: This head-on shot of G-ANEM shows the dihedral difference between the upper and lower wings clearly… Matchbox thoughtfully provided a really chunky connector to seat the lower wing but unfortunately with only a couple of degrees of dihedral. So, it was out with a bowl of hot water and some rubber gloves. The next two shots show before and after submerging in boiling water for about 5 seconds , bending and then setting under cold running water: Before: After: That’s all for now, more to follow soon! Kind regards, Paul

Well after being distracted by the Tempest and Spitfire IX plus the nice weather I am back with the Hurricane, first job as usual is to paint the undersides, looking through my battered (and still very useful) Ducimus Camouflage and Markings I have several choices, but the one I have opted for is set out below. However before I fire up my airbrush I want to make sure that I am on the right track as it has been a bit of a slog to get this far and I don't want to spoil it. Looking at lots of photos bottom middle seems the most likely. But before that on with the build, the landing lights were not as nice a fit as I first thought and gave me some headaches but they are fitted now and while not perfect will have to do. The wing tip lights were drilled and a spot of green and red paint applied to represent bulbs and the back painted silver, these were then fitted and masked off. The windscreen fouled the gun sight so it was carefully removed shortened and replaced, using some masking tape to stop it disappearing into the fuselage. The windscreen was then fitted and gaps filled with Mr Surfacer. The underside amber lamp was made up using an amber Little Lenses lens with the silver backing disc removed, the dimple in the fuselage was opened out a little to make it fit. The radiator front and rear, landing lights and wingtip lights were masked off ready for painting the undersides. Looking further along the build the topsides do look as if the fabric paintwork faded a lot so will be working out what to do to get the same effect. And another one Cheers Dennis

Many thanks, Kev. Here's picture of my daughter (she's 5) holding it - as you can see it's a large model! All the best, Tom

Hi everyone, My modelling time is pretty much done for the weekend. All of spent on these rocket tubes. I have to wonder why they never used fin stabilized rail mounted missiles like everyone else. The second tube was much harder than the first. But once I had the brass rod mostly covered by brass tube, it got easier. I used a lot of eyeball gestimation on angles. After the second set was dry-fitted, I took a photo and used and editing program to check that they weren't noticeably divergent. Obviously this isn't the best method as I'm not even sure that the camera was square to the work. Later I used card to make the hooks on the wings. Here they are just waiting for wiring and the last few pieces of PE: The assemblies are quite heavy. So heavy that I used a drill to bore out the center of each rocket. I also modified the outer parts of the rockets so that they could slide past where the points of the support rods pierce the tube sides... that's why they look so rough. But once I put the PE endcaps on, they won't be seen. I had to make them so they could slide all the way through. I would have taken more dry-fit photos. But aligning everything is akin to coaxing a praying mantis into an envelope, I reckon. Thanks for looking!

Thanks as always @Derek B Well i have to admit to a bit of burnout here. Correcting and replacing surface details on this right hand side is mind numbing and hard to motivate myself to carry on with all those rivets! Anyhow I have still done a little bit each night and the Phantom builds here have been hugely inspiring, thanks guys. I put my head down today and tidied up some more areas at the back end where the resin and plastic join (from where I earlier cut the conversion fuselage into 3 sections). only a couple of panel lines to do now and continue working on adding the fasteners. Then I can do the rivets. I will leave the best part of this post until the end as it's the main reason to update you all because I dont really have a lot to show from spending hours on the surface detailing. Here are some results of all my fine tuning, see nothing really looks different, but I really hope it pays dividends with the final result Then as a bit of a side track for me was to take a look at the lower nose profile and how I was going to fix it. I added some thick plasti card to the front, more on this later) and removed a couple of antennas that are not present on Brit Tooms. A suitable section of the original Tamiya fuselage section was cut out of the back for the Aux air doors in the back. Still yet to add some surface details before I make them too thin and add a bit of internal structure Anyway the big news and main reason to post is this......... Kerry said, well I made a 'Hot' section, I may as well make a 'cold' section!!! Isnt he awesome! He said to me that the NZ IPMS Nats are coming up on 8-10 Oct in Auckland where he lives, so I am going to see if I can finish this beast up to take up there. I will do my best and it gives me a target! I probably wont enter it as I have let my membership slip for quite a few years and I am not into competitions or placing anymore (I used to judge them as well) but happy to bring it up to display if nothing else Thanks for looking all, and until I have more to show.... Cheers Anthony

Thanks guys, now finished. I'm glad I made the effort with her! Matt

see more recent 2022 posts for updated info since original obsolete post This next AOAdecals sheet was in the making for awhile and of course KH bellied up in the meantime, but this weekend I still went ahead and finished the last squadron I planned to cover. This preview image (ignore the pink) is simply a data dump to show most of the schemes' decals, the actual layout of the sheet(s) hasn't begun yet and also not shown yet is a separate data/stencil sheet. Estimating a fall/winter release. Due to space restrictions not sure if all will make the final cut, as of now could include up to sixteen(!) options: HS-5 Nightdippers (HH-60H & SH-60F) HS-11 Dragonslayers (HH-60H & SH-60F) HSL-51 Warlords (SH-60B) HSL-43 Battle Cats (SH-60B) HSM-46 Grandmasters (MH-60R) HSM-48 Vipers (MH-60R) HSM-70 Spartans (MH-60R) HSM-73 Battlecats (MH-60R) HSC-9 Tridents (MH-60S) HSC-11 Dragonslayers (MH-60S) HSC-15 Red Lions (2x MH-60S) HSC-22 Sea Knights (MH-60S) HSC-28 Dragon Whales (MH-60S)

All I can say is threads like this, where a guy can take a lump of vac, or less in other threads, and beat it into a convincing airplane, make me feel a bit wanting, since I am just pushing well fit parts together with glue, like a chimp. I love threads like this. Keep going, Dan!

That looks great Dan! Matt

Many of you will have come across this Gentleman , the first pilot to be trained directly on the F-14 rather than converting , warbird pilot , and all round US aircrew legend died in a plane crash this past weekend , I came across him in Tomcat reference works, he became so closely associated with the aircraft that virtually no reference book on the type doesn't have a Snort story somewhere in them One of the most famous F-154 pilc of all time was flown by him https://theaviationist.com/2021/07/25/dale-snort-snodgrass/ That link gives a decent overview of his life and career ,

Some really nice efforts going on here Dan. Thanks for sharing this with us.

Mavbe if you view it from some specific point, it looks "right", like the skull in Holbein's The Ambassadors

Thanks, pretty pleased with it. I masked the letters on the tail and they came out surprisingly well. More importantly, it motivated me to get going. I built out all the pylons last night, and filled in all the holes for the antennas, (which I'd opened up before deciding which jet i was building). Slowly plugging along!

Wow. I’d missed somehow and I’m glad I stopped by. I love watching a master at work - this is already shaping up really well, Ben! All the best, Tom

Awesome conversion work, Ben! Kev

Wow on two accounts Anthony; first, the mountain you have had to climb to find your mojo again after that soul-sapping riveting session (and yes, it will be worth it), and secondly, that Spey compressor intake section, it's totally awesome! (huge kudos to Kerry here). Whoever is lucky enough to obtain 3D printed copies copies of Kerry's compressor and exhaust sections will be extremely fortunate as it will make conversion of the Tamiya F-4J into a Spey powered British Phantom that much easier. However, your conversion is exemplary Anthony and probably provides more inspiration to other modellers than you would ever appreciate - keep up the good work on this incredible build. Derek

love it!

Yeah man

This aircraft is impressive as the 1/72 Airfix model but I’ve never seen anyone tackle this beast in 1/32!! You certainly have my respect and admiration for doing such a good job with this one. I look forward to seeing the completed project.

Tom, I always enjoy seeing your progress and I'm always amazed at how quickly you seem to do it (I'm sure at times it doesn't feel that way though!). A questions for you about vacformed kits: When you're sanding off the excess material around say, the stabilisers, how do you hold onto/move the part in order to sand it? Awesome work as usual! Craig

Hello guys I found this cute "motocar" and I thought it will be nice to carry and lift some fuel tanks or NURS containers for my future 1/32 scale MiG planes. So the model is from Aoshima at 1/32 scale, and it is great to build from the box. Of course I add some additional parts like outer fuel tank, exhaust pipe and some rocket launcher containers to lift So here it is: And as always thank you for stopping by, and hope you will like it Cheers

one is with closed bays, and the another one with open bays.....

Here the pics of the progress..... the model on the left is the Zvesda 1/72 Su-47

Thanks for the assist Thunnus. I'll give AK a look, the local hobby shop has them. I think they also have the MRP line. Last night I stripped about half of the Vallejo paint off, I just have to strip the tail planes and the rudder. The underside is looking pretty good so I'll leave that as is.

Holy smokes, it all looks so good! That compressor face…! Too bad it’ll be buried, it’s a work of art!

I never realized that Spey engines had this strange configuration of stator blades (or are they fan blades??). Very British anyway ... These are CAD images I presume? Can't wait to see them printed. Cheers Rainer

As far as I can tell, the only issue with the wings is they are too thin. This, combined with the too-tall main gear tires, causes the model to sit almost level, instead of with the F-100's characteristic nose-up attitude. It's easily fixed by replacing the kit wheels with resin replacements (I found Renaissance's to just be copies of the kit wheels) and cutting ~3 mm from the tops of the struts for the 1/32 kits. Ben

Thanks to a few words from Kais, and finding that my original plan wasn't going to work, I cemented the card fillets to the bulge sections: Then I test fitted, pulled apart filed and sanded... re-test-fitted... pulled apart again... until I finally got it to the point where I reckon I can call it good. It's quite a funky wing design. The kit has some nice engineering features... that are a PITA when it comes to getting stuff right. YOu have to do everything in perfect order... you can't reverse the order of parts going together. Anyway... with that done, I considered cleaning up the parts... filling behind the card with black CA and then sanding it all smooth and continuing with assembly... but then I had a second thought... I need to prepare for the WfGr 21 rocket tubes and mountings before I get the kit too far along! I'm not one to seek perfection when I know it goes beyond my abilities and supplies. Basically what I did was use some photos of an Eduard set, and use them to help me 'engineer' the parts I came up with. So, I had to take pictures supplied by friends with the Eduard AM... resize them to meet the parts I've found and do a little math to tell me where to drill. The intersections of tape mark drilling points in the polished aluminum tube. The mounting brackets of the rockets will be .5mm rod enclosed in .7mm tube. This way I can space the parts to imitate detail. Here, the tube and .5mm rod are held in situ by blutack. I'm not sure of the angles, but I'll fiddle with it some tomorrow. I lightly sanded the tube to give the primer something to get hold of. The prospect of trying to work around these tubes is daunting as there is little, fragile detail to add to the wing, yet... and then there is all of that other assembly and weathering to complete. Thanks for looking!

The wings of the Tamiya Ki-61 are not suitable for a Ki-100. A new mould is needed. To explain, the wing-to-fuselage fairing of the Ki-100 was wider and as a result the rectangular "waffle iron" treadplates near the edge of the fairing were moved further outboard. On each wing near the edge of the wing-to-fuselage fairing there is a circular access panel for the fel tank that is surrounded by a treadplate. If you look at the shape of the treadplate around this circular panel it become evident where the difference is. Radu

Nose wheel well done! So far, no problems. I also started the cockpit.

Stickers! Well actually decals and masks. Dan