Leaderboard

Hey all, the rivets are all down on the fuselage. finally. you are gonna lose some rivets to shop rash. when I repair those spots which are typically one to three rivets, I mark their location by leaving the decal paper next to the repaired rivet(s) so I know where to come back to and smother with solvaset- Might lose some more as I handle the model adding some parts before paint. I’ll inspect it for lost rivets again before I black prime it- cheers Pete

Then it was time for the main rear gunners glass, the main canopy, and the windscreen (in the ZM kit are one part). I must say, the Ki-45 certainly isn't in the history books with any of the legendary twins of WWII, but it has some surprisingly attractive lines......especially all cleaned up: The fit at the back of the main gunners hatch glass I assume is very good, but I pooched mine a tad and it will need some adjusting: The next step was masking all this glass. With the help

Finally some paint... Obviously there is no decal for this model and everything will be homemade. I started by doing decals artwork for this one but knew that the light coloured decals on the darker colour skin wouldn't work. Luckily I had access temporarily to a cameo 4 and cut some masks. I tried to cut stencils but it seems these were either too small or my experience with the hardware is too limited Anyway, In the end I will try with a mix of masks and decals. All this to explain this weird looking first colour patchwork It's always ea

I decided to start this one with the engine. The detail on the P&W R-1830 Twin Wasp is pretty soft, and there are mold seams running down the sides of the cylinders which are very hard to remove without wrecking the cooling fins. Fortunately, since this engine will only be visible from the front through the cowling, I can focus on just tying to make that one angle look decent (like the false-front buildings on a Western stage set). The main parts, sort of cleaned up: Rather than trying to do any drilling, I went with the quick/dirty solution of gluing plu

new company to me from Hungary they have opening weekend with Buy 1 Get 1 free offer 3D instrument panels https://www.rfstudio.hu/# https://www.facebook.com/pg/Red-Fox-Studio-112301346967714/posts/?ref=page_internal F-117 F/A-18E Mirage III E/RD/O A-10 P-38 Bf-109G Fw-190A-8 Me-262 P-51

Once that was done the PE was rolled until it fitted the curve of the resin I also choose to hollow out the inward facing side so that some of the holes in the PE would not be blocked. Marking the holes with pencil. Create an hollow with scalpel #11. Forgot to take intermediate pictures of the process, but once the resin was glued in the correct position, the remaining missing frames were fabricated from plastic sheet. I will put these aside until I am ready to fabricate the operating mechanism. But fo that I will ne

Doing some cleaning and sorting of things amassed on my bench the last few months. Sorted out decals, start to file them. No room. File drawer is packed tight. Dig through file headers. Armor instructions and aircraft instructions. Dig them out, go through them. Instruction sheets back to the 70s in both piles. Talk about a trip down memory lane....

Today's goal.......

Tight fit for the interior parts in the cargo area.

This is me ... I have a big bag of extremey fine powder that I have no idea where I got it or why I have it.

So "camouflage" or not, this isn't a low-observability paint scheme ;-) That photo is too cool in tone, BTW - the actual colors are yellower. Overall I'm pretty happy with how this is going. But more work to do. There's one tiny area where the masks lifted the base coat of paint (in a highly visible spot, of course) so I'm going to have to fix that. Plus I need to mask and paint a lighter-yellow ID band around the rear fuselage (if I had been thinking carefully I probably would have done that MUCH earlier and then masked it off). I'm going

Right, here goes update # 1. thinking I want the speed brakes down I first tackled the forward speed brakes to see what is what. First observation: the holes in the speed brake do not line up with the framework of the resin body. Fisher would have you glue them in the centre of the PE, but that will cause the framework to obstruct the holes - and I cannot imagine that would be a desired aspect of the speedbrake. So here is my solution - not a perfect copy of the real item, but good enough for my purpose. On the left is my first try, on the

QUICKBOOST 1/32 B24J Liberator Propellers for HBO QUB32258

I've built the Revell kit last year and did not encounter any problems, at least none that a little elbowgrease wouldn't solve. And howling with the wolves, I've sold my 2 Tamiya kits and bought me another Revell kit. And btw, the kit decals are excellent (maybe Cartograf?). But we all have our preferences, don't we! Lothar

Hello, a new update on this model. The IP cover was panted and weathered. I replaced the HUD's glasses with thin clear plasticard sheet. Then I removed the molding line from the front canopy section. After a good polishing session the part was glued into the fuselage. A thin stripe was applied in front of the windshield to simulate the defog vent. Here some details added to the speed-bake vane. Now my Legacy Hornet is ready for the painting stage... CIAO! Piero

2nd prototype

Per their overseas marketing person in an email recently, they are a very small family company with limited resources, so they can't keep everything continuously in production. Despite what's been written in some places (which is ridiculous on its face), their products are not "limited run" or "limited edition" in the sense that they will never be reissued. The individual boxings/decals may be, but they've already reboxed their 1/48 F-4J at least three (or four?) times already. It's a juggling act between creating new product and satisfying demand for existing product. Given patience and e

OK, calling this one done for now. One of these days I'll get a pretty backdrop and use a real camera, but for now, heres a quick look at her in all her flourescent glory!

Ok, lots to see................... I have finished with the major re-spray of the metal areas. In addition to re-spraying all of the very shiny Airframe Aluminum with Stainless Steel I have also given the entire model a light dust coat of Aluminum to try and blend in everything so that the panel contrast is toned down a little. I have also un-masked all of the previously painted white areas. These areas will contain squadron markings. I will be adding yellow stripes. Lots of cleanup and fine touchups to go but here is the basic scheme.

Finally got this one finished and also tried my hand at building a base. AK Real Colours Eagle Cals Barracuda Wheels Barracuda Cockpit stencils Ultracast Pappy Boyington AK Terrains Palm Tree - from Ebay seller in Thailand It's a great kit. I have another in the pile for a later date. Thanks for looking. Simon

Hi All, small update. So, after seeing the pictures of the fire extinguisher control box mounting arrangement, I was doomed to having a crack at representing it! I decided to try and fashion the lower mounting frame simply by drilling and carving out the platform on the kit part which had been sawn off from its previous location on the side wall frame. The upper mounting bracket is a spare PE part. The bungee bearers on the side of the box were made from sections of 0.5 mm rod and the bungee cord represented with 0.2 mm copper wire. The kit control box is slightly oversize so I couldn't easily

Still IMC most of the time I'm afraid, Jack! Well, more time at the bench, then. Anyway, I'm filling and sanding now, not worth a picture. To show the thought that went into the making of this kit, here is a picture of the partly build-up interior as it would be OOB: Floor, carpets, skid plates, seats and parcel shelf are all moulded in different colours to enable finishing without paint. The same holds for the controls and instrument panel (not shown). The result is convincing enough for sombody who is not very experienced and would have t

Pete, Actually you shouldn't lose any and a primer coat will have a negligible, if any affect on adhesion. The way you are doing it now is fine and you should not lose any rivets by handling the model. When I did my Wildcat build I glued a part in the wrong place and in the process of fixing it I had to do some sanding around the rivets. As you can see in this photo, the rivets took sanding without coming off. Try it yourself on a scrap part. There's only two ways to remove the rivets once they're on and dy; pop them off with your hobby knife or sand them off.

I was going through some boxes and found a complete RC car that wasn't assembled. It was still in the box. Couldn't remember buying it or where it came from. I finally got around to working on it recently and it's almost done.

I clean up often. So there is not much nostalgia involved. Not much history build up you mentioned. I used to leave myself post-it notes when I was working so after 3 weeks I could start back up with least amount of delay. Boring I will admit.

How about instructions for the Aurora MBT- 70? I also found a bunch of Shep Paine diorama tip sheets.

I think the number of people who buy and build multiple kits of the same subject is greater than you think. That said, if I could buy only one, I’d choose the Tamiya.

I started off this past week by breaking out my A6M paint mule, and spraying a fairly opaque (much more so than I will be on the model) layer of the MRP 177: Next I applied some camo masks I pulled from my Silhouette cutter. Here I have to say I used a 1/2 sheet on the cutter and it spat out the mask sheet before the whole wing was done, so I had to just randomly put together some camo bits. That did NOT work out well. I ended up hating the arranged look of the ones I chose: It didnt look bad when I just had t

With the yellow base coat completed (dang that took a lot of paint, even over a white undercoat - I guess that's yellow for you): And masked up for the camo. Even with the masks pre-made on the Silhouette it was a few hours' work to get this all sorted out. It did not help that I apparently screwed up re-sizing one of the images I traced so that the masks for the top of the upper wing were too short and had to be amended with tape. And with the light green color sprayed. Even though the lacquer is dry to the touch in a few minutes, because I

Bit of sunshine on the patio this afternoon - so am opportunity to cut and sand the various castings I'd made for the Navigator's panel, without getting the house full of resin dust! These are very rough shapes just now - but shout give me a head start on making an F3 looking rear cockpit: Everything still needs properly squaring up - including the currently tapered screen casings - and the panel below needs a re.do to F3 pattern - but it's a start! Iain

I do not know why but I do not like lit displays. When a plane is parked the probability to see them up is very low. Typically, you need to add some ground crew, electrical connections and so on. Another option is to put the plane rolling or even in flight with a pilot figure. However, these two scenarios are rarely chosen by modellers. So, why doing such a choice whereas this also increases the risk to get a toyish look? Eduard regularly made the same choice. I'm always puzzled by that...

This is just amazing, the fidelity of these products takes our hobby to an entirely different level. Thanks for sharing these photos. I am really impressed at the fidelity and the possibilities that 3d printing brings to the hobby. And it is still in its infancy. Just amazing! Cheers Alan

Tempted with the Spitfire, Mustang and 262. But for elegance for me it's the Me163B Matty

The Whirlwind was designed with leading edge slats but I believe these were wired shut early on in it's career. TRF

I think we all feel "nostalgic" when we clean up our work areas Mike! I sometimes find things I had completely forgot about!

they have it on their FB page as a new release which should be available soon Dave

I've heard exactly NO discussion about what type of equipment is used to create these things. Is it some variation of a 3D printer? Is it a Russian secret weapon?

Today update. Now Landing gear and Engine.

Talking of geometry, after a very busy day in the garden I started to look at the interplane struts, which scrub up quite nicely and have the usual SW wire core to act as location points. I did a trial fit to see if the wire needed trimming (it does move within the resin sheath too) - just a tiny amount to come off perhaps. The unknown however is what the forward lean angle is - sometimes given in SW's instructions but not this time. I reckon it's about 70 deg: but of course with biplanes there is always a knock-on effect with accurate location of upper wings, of ca

Hi there guys My mojo has returned! I'm in the middle of scratch building a auxiliary DC generator for the rear section. I have seen photos with the generator in the rear and I'm defo going to put it in mine as it looks fun to build and will make the rear section look more busy! This afternoon I sprayed it with my new airbrush (Paasche H... as my old Badger gave up the ghost before my summer break)...and will post it on my next update! As for now I will give you a quick update on the trailing antenna mechanism that I have made for the rear section. It w

Good afternoon guys. I have put a few nuts on the sides of the barge and have done work on detailing the gearbox. Hope you like.

Indeed. That’s something I like about the Quinta ones. All MFDs are powered down. Being the heretic I am I have several 1/48 sets from Quinta on the way.

I may just be me but I would rather build one Tamiya P51 than three Revell, despite not being interested in displaying the engine.

I recently sold my Trumpeter F-117. These lovely looking IP’s wouldn’t be possible without one’s own sacrifice. I love this awesome hobby! &@$@#!. I hope they do an F-14D.....

Same for me Jan : the promotion seems not to work. Nevertheless, I made my purchase and will see what comes in the box. Stefano

Ah, ghosts of builds past. I try not to save too much. The only instructions I have ever kept are WnW because they are just too nice to toss. I always have old parts laying around that haven't made it to the spare parts box yet. I do keep all the spare decals though. As big a work surface as I have I end up with so much clutter I just have enough room to fit the model.

Still working on the stencil decals. So far the bottom and left side are done. I'm still looking for the stencil that says "You can call me Ishmael".

Hi all! Didn't make too much progress last week on the Tiger Moth , apart from some trimming of the plug for the front seat. As I have a second kit I want to build, and before all the measures and references are put away, I decided to correct and detail the parts of that kit before getting too far in the present build. Notably the Apoxy Sculpt in the end of the fuselage and the rectangle openings in the bulkheads. Easy to compare and measure before the kit is closed up! This is the lower fuselage panel that holds

I love the Silhouette machine. This was the first try at making these masks - all applied with no issues. I'm going to need to be careful with the 4s on the cowl that cross the raised lip between panels - they need to be firmly pressed down right before painting as they don't stick for long...