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Timmy!

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Timmy! last won the day on December 5 2018

Timmy! had the most liked content!

About Timmy!

  • Rank
    Hooked For Life
  • Birthday 10/06/1971

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    Sandy Eggo

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  1. Looks good! Very unique addition. I think his name should be Devil! SF, Timmy!
  2. How ‘bout this one? Panda dog! Love, Me
  3. Hello again! I’ve been busy printing and prepping parts. The skeleton and first layers of detail are ready for final fitting and assembly. Everything received a coat of black epoxy primer, for two reasons to seal the FDM printed parts and fill machine marks and layer lines on the CNC cut, and resin printed parts. I mixed up some chromate color with Tamiya yellow and green and sprayed a base color layer. A few days later I received some MRP paints...I've been looking a paint solution since the demise of Floquil. Great paint, and I super happy with the results. Anyway, I sprayed a thin layer of MRP chromate over the Tamiya color and I was pleased with the mottled effect and overall fidelity of the base color. Details were painted in their appropriate colors, then the parts were sealed with Future. A layer of lamp black and burnt umber oils, thinned with Japan dyer was applied, then promptly wiped away. This dirtied up the surfaces and created a good back ground for the details to come. Assembly is underway, with some printing successes I'm looking forward to share in the next installment White parts CNC cut acrylic and styrene, green/blue parts are resin printed, and the dark gray part in the middle was CNC cut, top and bottom halves the make up the cockpit floor and nose gear well overhead. The nose gear well half had a printed detail appliqué added. Primed parts Base Tamiya color Weathered parts Detail composites This stuff is coming up. These are the console panels that were cut from 0.040” styrene on the CNC mill. Thanks for tuning in! Timmy!
  4. Those are called EAPS, Engine Air Particle Separator. (Pronounced “eeps”). Yes all identical. They unlatch at the rear and swing forward to allow engine intake inspection.
  5. This answer is a usual case, there are exceptions. There are two times the blades are folded, to fit in a hanger or to store in the “bone” (the parking area on a ship). The folding operation is complicated in the sense that, there are a lot of things that can go wrong and can cause damage. Folding the blades required many eyes watching the operation to ward off mistakes. As a rule of thumb, because the 53 is so complicated, if operation is not necessary it’s not done to keep things from breaking. Keep in mind the MH squadrons are shore based, they generally don’t deploy on ship, Marines however do, and can get very quick at folding up blades and tail, especially when on work ups or deploying on a ship. Therefore, I suspect you’d see far fewer MH’s folded than CH’s. Folding is most common on a ship and panels are definitely not left open in that environment. On shore they are folded for storage and not left open either. If the aircraft are in the hanger for heavy maintenance, the blades are very often removed entirely. It would be a rare case to see a bunch of panel open with the blades folded. However, the #2 engine and oil cooler, platforms can be lowered, and the upper doors opened for pre-flight inspection. You can open the dog house above the cockpit and the #1 and #3 engines no sweat. As an aside, it was a true joy on preflight to walk the spine to inspect the tail rotor while the ship was underway and the tail hanging over the catwalks and water....not. in general, thing aren’t left open unless active maintenance is going on. Although it was common for an aircraft to be on the line with all 3 engine compartments, dog house, oil cooler and #1 and #3 EAPS open by a motivated crew chief who has his aircraft ready for the pilots to conduct their preflight. This courtesy was usually held for the CO or Maintenance Officer or pilots in good standing with the Flight-line shop. Blades spread and untied of course..... Hope that helps, Timmy!
  6. Flew Ch-53E’s in the Marine Corps....whatcha got?
  7. For anyone willing to attempt this type of conversion, I have uploaded some files to Thingiverse. Some of the parts are meant to be printed on resin type printers and others for CNC milling. Part descriptions will indicate what method best suited for production. Enjoy and thanks for watching the project. Timmy! P.S. Plans will be published at a future date. I'll post here when available. Goshawk Parts
  8. Totes dope yo!! Magnets look like a choice solution! Timmy!
  9. Well kids.... I started all over again... New thread because the old one was just devolving into a endless stream of do overs. THIS THREAD SHALL NOT BE WHAT CAME BEFORE...THIS ONE WILL BE A FINISHED PROTOTYPE MODEL!! So a few months back my good friend Paul Fisher lost his home and wonderful workshop to fire in Paradise, CA. I am so happy he and his family escaped and in that light the mention of what comes next seems so trivial. Paul was in possession of the masters I had completed at the time of the fire so an opportunity to build a better model arose. Considering the magnitude of the work I previously completed, I started thinking about how to speed up the build. As many of you know I have turned to CNC and SLA type 3d printing to augment the hand building of the model. Until recently I had eschewed the use of FDM type printers due to the inaccuracy of the prints, and significant post processing required after printing model parts. Cost also was a factor, nothing was worth the investment versus the risk of poor parts. Enter the Tiertime Cetus MKIII. This little printer was cheap, precise and worth a gamble. The main feature that attracted me to the printer was the linear guide rails and bearing blocks. These almost guarantee accurate movement of the axises of the printer. With a price in the $300 US range it was worth a try. With the printer in hand and after some tweaking with the assembly of the printer I managed to print dimensionally accurate parts. One inch cubes were printed and were measured by digital caliper only a few ten thousands of an inch from true, and square adjacent surfaces measured with a machinist's square. So I ordered up 7,000g of PLA filament and started a-printing. On a similar journey I ordered up an Anycubic Photon MSLA printer, though this journey was much longer because the Photon required much more significant modification to get true parts. Out of the box it made fantastic parts in terms of detail. However, they parts didn't fit with others, they were skewed in the Z or vertical axis. The modification was much too complex to detail in this post, suffice to say the machine was disassembled, parts were machined true, linear rails and bearing blocks added and a new parts were machined to make it all work. Parts that came out of the machine post modification were exceptional! Now that I have three machines working simultaneously part production has definitely accelerated the pace of this build. I have also made some design changes. Outside of getting another chance to improve the model's accuracy, simplifying and streamlining the build has been a chief consideration. So the model will still be "skinned" in aluminum sheet but only where there are removable panels, the remainder of panel detail will be scribed in to a layer of primer paint. PLA is a difficult material to sand and also hygroscopic and needed to be well sealed. I'm using 2 part automotive epoxy paint (paint and hardener) to fill and "glue" the PLA layers together. The result is a surface that is much easier to sand and finish. You can see a few of the PLA parts were the black primer has been applied and finishing has started. Lastly my machining skills have improved to the point where the acrylic parts now have machined in details, rivets and reinforcing layers etc. Here's a shot of the parts so far. These parts represent the main components of the fuselage from the nose to the engine faces. More detailed photos coming as assembly commences. This will be a prototype model, so I will be finishing this one as I go, so you can look forward to finished assemblies going forward. Thanks for checking in! Timmy!
  10. This build is LITERALLY like a Phoenix. Big update soon. Thanks for checking in! Timmy!
  11. Sponson drawing. Hope this is useful to your model. I cleaned it up a little bit and added known dimensions in inches. Timmy! Looking forward to the build!
  12. The MH is differences derive from it’s mine sweeping mission. So all of the external differences you mentioned plus the sled and winch system, rear view mirrors so the pilots can see the sled in the water. There are triangular plates on the aft section of the fuel sponson where it meets the ramp area. The fuselage is identical, we had some CH’s that had the mounting points on the fuse side where the big fuel sonson of the MH would bolt on. Other differences that i’ll mention but would have no bearing on the model are upgraded engines and some nice avionics stuff. The engines had a more robust hot section to cope with the continuous high power settings needed for sled towing. The MH secondary mission after the Navy got rid of their CH’s was to haul cargo and personnel (a$$ and trash) long distance shore to ship. So they had some better navigation gear. The HSI I remember particularly because that wou;d have made life nicer in the CH. Both were Old Skool steam gauge, no autopilot but altitude hold and simple SAS (Stabilization Augmentation System), the MH just had some “newer steam gauges.” Hope that clears up things up a little... Timmy!
  13. Well it better be a CH-53E! HMH-461 to be specific! IRONHORSE!! .....sorry for yelling, I got excited. It’s been 2003 since I last flew one but I remember The Hog well. Happy to be a resource! Definitely excited for this build, I expect great things ahead! Timmy!
  14. Peter nice shot! I chose 109 because the Marine Corps is represented. Yep...full effort on the Jag! Glad you like the model!
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