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1/32 Hasegawa kits HGW rivet set, wet transfers Barracuda wheels Eagle Cals #104 Aires wheel bay, engine, gun barrels Avionix cockpit All colours MRP

This time model from WW II times, I generally avoid model aircraft with a propeller. I definitely prefer modern aviation. However, from time to time I make a model for someone to order. I present to you such a model F4U-1A Corsair model from the Tamiya skal scale 1:32 This is one of the best models I've built, all the elements fit together without a problem. Model made straight from the box with one addition from yahoo. I invite you to watch, I hope that the model looks good.

A little detailing on the refueling probe and fairing.

I've been wanting to build this one for some time now but when I saw Model Monkey had been working on 3-D printed cockpit and tail plane update sets I decided it was time take the plunge and dust this kit down. When my update parts arrived I have to say I was super happy with the quality of these 3-D printed parts far far better than any I had seen before. I have always wanted to build a RCAF coastal command machine with a full complement of rockets so I also ordered the Aviaeology "Canadians in Coastal Command # 1 "decal set as well. Very impressed with the packaging from Model Monkey, everything carefully bubble wrapped and in perfect condition on reaching me. So first things first I will carefully remove the cockpit tub from its printing blocks and check the fit between the fuselage halves. As you can see, the quality and detail of the 3-D printed part is pretty flawless but needs some careful work to remove the tree from the main part. So with a quite day at home planned I'm looking foward to start breathing some new life in to this old kit! Regards. Andy

Hello Here is my last built: Hasegawa P-40N reboxed byEduard. Nice kit. Easy built I used guns from Masters and tried the eduard Look dashboard. Markings are a bit of what if as I screwed up the decal sheet with fat spills from cooking.... stupid... Anyway, with some leftover from previous kits I managed to figure something convincing. (or so I think)

Hasegawa Ki-61 1/32 Alley Cats conversion cockpit photoetche Brengun exhaust Quickbost colors Gunze C

I have several WIP photos I can add them.

Trumpeter Su-27 1/32 finally finished... I tried to build heavy weathered Flanker based above polar circle with units called “ Guardians of the North”. I used Zacto intakes, nosecone, missiles and pylons. Aires Cockpit, wheel wells and exhausts. Armory resin wheels. Front windshield is a scratch build as kit part was really bad in shape. Colors - MRP paint including silver primer, transparent paints and metalizers. Tamiya panel liners and weathering Masters used. WIP here:

My biggest regret is that I never finished this. I put hundreds of hours into it, full scratchbuilt interior, pretty much every component had scratchbuilt or aftermarket add-ons. Just never could make it to the finish line. While in storage, she got damaged, making it even less likely that she'll ever get completed. Sadness....

I made a new intake to replace the kit part, I'm not sure what is on the top and bottom in there ???

Ideally, if you get to a compound/convex curve that you cant get the foil to go over try bumping up the strength/thickness of the foil you are working with on that part. Contrary to what common sense would say, using substantially thicker and stronger foil for compound/convex curves, saves tearing and a lot of headache. The thicker foil (I normally use Reynolds Wrap "Extra Strength" or Reynolds Wrap "Extra Heavy Duty" foil for this purpose. And yes, forgot to add that if you add a bit of dawn to the foil mixture things do spray better, but you still may get some beading if the surface is oily. Id still recommend cutting the spray foil with 91% alcohol as like with most things, it sprays more consistently than cutting with water. Id also experiment with and buy every/all different brands, thicknesses, and types of foil you can get your hands on after you get the cut mix of bleach down with spring water ( dont cut it with tap, as occasionally hard water can make the mixture less effective) as different types of foils seem to react differently and can get different results in the bleach mix: There are all different types/brands/thickness here, and all gave different but interesting results: Some with more golds and reds and a rainbow effect, and others with a more dull titanium look: :

Had some spare time tonight so i thought I’d try out the bleach technique to get some different tones to my foil. Haha, what a hoot that was! Honestly I read the part about not letting it sit too long. An hour is toooo long. In this first photo image these pieces of foil were twice as tall. The 2nd picture is that lower half drained from the mason jar... Here is a shot comparing foil treated with bleach, pennies, and fishing weights vs foil treated with just the bleach diluted 50/50 with water to get some yellow hues. maybe this weekend I’ll get to foiling the wings. I need to find the post on how to spray the adhesive with an airbrush first. Having fun! chris

Hi guys, This is a twin of my previously posted F-16A Netz #234 . That was a double build of old Hasegawa kits representing now retired F-16A Netz of Israeli Airforce. AIrcraft F-16A Block 5, S/N 78-0311 was delivered to Israel in June 1980. Originally assigned to 117Sq. "The First Jet Sq.". On 7 June 1981 Netz 107 took part in Operation Opera, piloted by Amos Yadlin, and was the second F-16 to strike the Osiraq nuclear reactor. Netz 107 scored its first aerial kill on 21 April 1982 when pilot Zeev Raz shot down a Syrian Air Force MiG-23. During Operation Peace for Galilee it shot down 6 more Syrian aircraft. On 9 June 1982, Eliezer Shkedi shot down two MiG-23s, although one was shared with another pilot. On Friday 11 June 1982 pilot Eithan Stiva shot down four Syrian aircraft. It finished it's service in Dec 2014 and is stored at Hatzerim IAF Museum. The kit itself is very old Hasegawa mold with raised panel lines and rivets. I had to scribe and rivet whole surface and wings. Hasegawa plastic is hard and brittle so this part of the build was a nightmare. I gave up to rescribe the bottom of the fuselage and decided to use airbrush and weathering in my favour. I used following extras during build: True Details cockpit for F-16A... . Glareshield is too wide to close the canopy so I had to build both kits with opened canopy. GT Resin exhaust for Academy kit Aires wheel bays for Academy kit Scale Aircraft Conversion metal landing gear for Academy kit Profimodeller Wheels Center tank from Tamiya F-16CJ kit Sidewinder register - converted from Tamiya's F-16CJ AIM-9M Tailart and insignias are airbrushed using my homemade masks. Other decals are from Isradecal. Paints: Mr Paint colors and Mr Paint washes Thanks and regards,

I pulled this kit from the SOD where it has been rotting for at least 4 years. It's the really nice Hasegawa kit with some Eduard etched parts, CMK resin bits (weapons bay), kit decals (except for the national markings for which I used home made masks from Tamiya tape), paints used were Gunze throughout: I hope you like what you see. Modelling isn't as easy as it used to be, hands have become shaky and eyesight is diminishing, but I still enjoy it. Lothar

I spent a little time on the Harrier this week, I installed the auxillery intake doors on one side of the fuselage, the majority of photos that I've looked at shows Harriers sitting on the ground that aren't running have most of the auxillery doors closed with the exception of the top 3 on both sides of the canopy and the 4th down partially open. I have also seen some photos that I think were taken on a windy day where some of the lower doors were partially open on one side of the aircraft and not the other.

Mix the bleach 50/50 with water like you did and increase the pennies a bit. It also may help to chop up the lead too. As to spraying the adhesive , I've found the best way is to use MS foil adhesive, cut it about 50/50 with water or alcohol before shooting it with the air brush. Make sure you thoroughly clean the surface to be sprayed, as any oils will cause the thinned foil glue to bead up on the surface. You still may get some beading of the glue on the surface when you spray, but a little bit shouldn't hurt. I would also make a point of including a full and thorough cleaning of your air brush with lacquer thinner ideally (91% alcohol will also work, but do not use 70%) *right* after you spray. If you miss a cleaning after spraying foil glue thru the AB, you may have a very big problem on your hands. The glue can dry in the smallest of crevices, and shooting foil glue through an AB requires a much more in depth cleaning I found than after shooting paint.

DAk departure by Tony Taylor, on Flickr

1/32 Hasegawa kits HGW rivet set, wet transfers Barracuda wheels Techmod decals 32011 Aires wheel bay, engine, gun barrels Avionix cockpit All colours MRP

Dragon's future release: DRA05114.........1/35 Sikorsky SH3H Seaking

Well as promised I have started to sort through my shots, weather was poor day one with wind and rain resulting in the jump been scrubbed, as indeed was the case 75 years ago, ok I will upload as and when sorted, some starters for you, but first the US tribute overhead Duxford en route to Normandy.... all of these are better on Flickr full-size, US Flyby by Tony Taylor, on Flickr Ok onto the Daks... 7 in the air and 7 (just) on the ground Dakota heaven 7 ship flypast by Tony Taylor, on Flickr Departing day 1 for failed drop due to weather Dakota heaven by Tony Taylor, on Flickr Dakota heaven departure day one by Tony Taylor, on Flickr Departing day 2 for France Dakota heaven on silver wings by Tony Taylor, on Flickr Ohh and better have some cover.. Nellie B by Tony Taylor, on Flickr

Howdy folks, Ray Peterson is back with another book review for us: ASBL La Porte d'Hoves Luftwaffe Gallery: JG 5 Special Album #4 "Fighters of the Midnight Sun" Thanks, Ray! Kev

With a day at home I spent this morning removing parts from the support tree's which is tricky as the resin used to print these parts is pretty brittle so its a case of slowly but surely! A test fit of parts shows all location points/ etc on parts to fit to the tub are slightly over size and need trimming to fit. Here is the cockpit tub with seat, instrument panel and a few other bits and pieces test fitted. The control column is a pretty delicate part with a lot of support tree to remove. and as careful as I was I sill managed to break it Fortunately I still have the broken parts so some careful reconstruction required. Speaking of broken parts I found one of the fuselage halves had a massive crack in it coming from the wing root area. Here it is with a large amount of Tamiya extra thin applied. I'm thinking I need to be pretty careful with this old plastic as I dont want to have these numerous repairs going on and I've not even started removing the old internal cockpit location tabs etc. My plan is to get the new cockpit tub fit sorted between the fuselage halves before moving on to a re-scribe of the airframe. Thank you all for looking in on this one and hopefully I can do some justice to this old kit. Regards. Andy

Yeah, baby!!!... about time, Lets hope.

A rinse off w/alcohol or warm soapy water will stop the bleach reaction. Yes, egg shells work. It really depends on what region you are in as to if it will work or not. Eggs around here work great, but had a freind on the East coast who tried it, and bought every brand of egg he could find and never did get the full reaction to work. If you do try it a couple of things to keep in mind: - after boiling and peeling the eggs, re-use that same water and dont dump it out, its key for the reaction. - you can also keep the shells in the water with the foil - dont do more than 1 or two sheets of foil at any one time. If you have two foil pieces touching or overlapping a "shadow" of untouched foil will appear in that area and may ruin an otherwise cool colored section of foil.

Here's my Trumpeter Me262 Night fighter, started ten years ago. I have put a lot of work into my representation of serial number 110306 and hope to get it done once in my lifetime... http:// http:// http:// Chris

Hi all, The aileron control cable exterior turnbuckles now fitted. Next step - fit the upper wing, Mike

After wards, the decal on the tail number, at the rudder also broke up. I deduced it may be due to not enough sealant. During the process of removing it, I lifted off some paint. But since I didn't attached the decal, I decided to place it aside, and decide later if I reprint another decal, or just mask it. Anyways, I now decided to place clear gloss, did a panel line wash, and started weathering the kit. Looking at different images, the undersides of the P-51D was very dirty, so I aimed for it as close as I can From what I understand, smoke stains from USAAF aircraft was mostly dark gray, so I went with it. Light at the end of the tunnel, finally!

Duxford Dak Chalair by Tony Taylor, on Flickr Duxford Dakota N341A by Tony Taylor, on Flickr Duxford Dakota Finnish by Tony Taylor, on Flickr Duxford Dakota Flyby by Tony Taylor, on Flickr

DAk departures -4 by Tony Taylor, on Flickr DAk boarding by Tony Taylor, on Flickr DAk Landing by Tony Taylor, on Flickr Duxford Dak Swissair by Tony Taylor, on Flickr

And the images just keep coming.. DAk departure silver wings by Tony Taylor, on Flickr DAk departure -1 by Tony Taylor, on Flickr DAk departures -2 by Tony Taylor, on Flickr DAk departures -3 by Tony Taylor, on Flickr

That is indeed “Red 9” CAT. I was also saddened to discover 21C went belly up, I hadn’t acquired all the toys I wanted! And I would say it did influence me to get back into this hobby, also. That is an impressive collection you have there! Here is another angle of “Red 9” with the Fort. I love the lines of the radial engine FW’s. It’s a beautiful airplane from any angle, except on your six I suppose. Cheers, David

Hi all, The inner aileron pulleys and the inner wing control lines are done as well as the trailing edge support wire. Once I've added the control cable turnbuckles it'll be time to tackle fitting of the upper wing, Mike

Wonderful start to this one! Personally I found that spraying the foil gets by far the best consistent result. I cut the glue with 50/50 with 90% alcohol and sprayed two light coats on each piece of foil, allowing the first one to dry before doing the second. Always sprayed across the foil in two different directions. I did try using water, but also got some beading, plus it took too long to dry. Had no issues using alcohol - story of my life really! I also never had any problem with the glue drying in the airbrush. I used my double action brush and had the glue sitting in there for typically up to an hour before shooting alcohol through it and refilling. I'd fully strip it at the end of each session. For burnishing, artist paper blending stumps are great. I also used rounded toothpicks for the fine details. Always start from the centre and work out. Using the paper pencils allows you to use their edge to work the foil over the edge of the piece without tearing. For those pieces like ailerons I used two methods. The best was foiling both sides using one piece of foil by placing the piece on the foil along the sharp edge and working it over both sides of the part. Took some practice! The other way was simply taking the foil over the sharp edge to the first panel line on the second side, trimming it and then doing the rest of the second side. Easier, but not quite as nice. You're right though - keeping everything clean is the biggest thing. 90% alcohol is your friend. Using vaseline to protect the panels beside the one you're working with is the next biggest thing. Enjoy! Very therapeutic. Mike

Would that Focke-Wulf be 'Red 9' by any chance?

Greetings all! A lot of progress and a good deal of head scratchin’ since the last update. Waist crew door only needs handles and paint now. Hinges are doctored pieces of the PE sprues. First coat is on {MM Dark Green Enamel 50/50 with Testor’s Airbrush thinner} over thinned flat black enamel preshading (wings only). I’ve never done preshading before and I thought it was pretty dark before the first coat of color, so I freaked out a little and opted for post shading for the fuse. Now I’m concerned I’ll lose the wing preshading after a second coat. I was handed this color when I asked for suggestions for camo B-17’s at my local hobby shop, can’t say I’m pleased with it. It was pretty fuzzy to the touch (that’s on me) after the first coat, so I carefully rubbed the fuzziness away with gloves from work that are mildly and finely abrasive. It did lighten it up. But I’ll do the second coat darker, and weathering and hope for the best. It is a fictitious Fort anyway, I could just take it all off and put Candy Apple Red lacquer on it I guess. J/K Awaiting the weathering of the weighted main wheels. Lots of fussing remains with the demarcation line between grey/green {I do like where that line falls on the forward fuse here and will try to hold that line}, de-icing boots, not to mention rivets and scribing. One big issue remaining are steps and seams in the port wing roots, as of now not glued. The two fighters are actually two of the toys I bought for my dad way back when, but in the same scale. Tonight I’ll get it on its own wheels, see what can be done about the wing root, and deal with a few areas of overspray, and bombay doors (open). The aftermarket flaps await attachment as well, but that is for another (long) day. As always, suggestions are welcome, especially on this crazy green. I know we would be hard pressed to find two ETO combat veteran camo B-17’s with the same shades of green, but I don’t know that I ever seen one anywhere quite like this, and I can no longer ask my father. Thanks again! David

Thanks for your positive comments and support. Last pictures before painting.

DId the Alleycat D coversion some years ago - an absolute delight. I used the Eduard kit (as prescribed) and some years later I did a unmodified Eduard kit... it was actually easier to add the Alleycat nose than use the Eduard standard nose. That's how good it is. Highly recommended

LOOOLLL my view exactly - if it's doomed, then it is binned - but postponed is something entirely different

Dear all, I keep on working on camera bay with the pair of windows cut in 0,5 mm plexiglass. Everything is just a first dry fitting for now. Cheers Eric

In an effort to move this one on a bit, I pushed through and got it finished. Just in time for this weekends Model Expo in Melbourne. All in all, an enjoyable build of an interesting aircraft. My normal `just finished' photos. Studio photos to follow soon. I decided to leave the rockets off due to them being quite fragile and they didn't add anything to the look of the completed model. It will live on my all resin jets shelf for the time being. Thanks for following on!

Guys, i'm back! This time not with something in 1/48 or smaller. That thing... It's the Trumpeter kit, my second 1/32 scale model, and it's quite huge It's so ever slightly bigger than the F-15 in lenght and even in wingspan, which impressed me a bit. Alright, let's do it. I plan a rather slow and longer build. Some may know very well the quality and what's in the box, but i'm gonna make a thorough review these days whatsoever. Here is just a quick glimpse: And of course, i'll take advantage of the AFV Club's tinted canopy, cause i think it's absolutely necessary for a good looking F-117. I cannot tint such a huge canopy by myself and not leave any trace of dust, etc. In 1/48 or less - it's ok because the little imperfections are almost invisible, but this one is one, enormous and two, with perfectly flat straight sides. I'll also use the GTR Wheel set that i didn't use in my F-15E. The kit tires are from very hard rubber and quite small in size. I have the original dimensions of the plane's tires and did the quick measurements. The GTR tyres are perfect. Only the front tyre is a bit smaller in diameter so i might still use the kit's rubber tyre for the nose wheel. And on the other hand, i know that the F-117 had just about the same avionics as the F-18 and just about the same landing gear as the F-15, so that's the perfect moment to use the gorgeous GTR tyres and wheels. And finally, the extra PE screen for the FLIR and DLIR. This is obligatory as well, because the provisions for these sensors are huge. I did a little mistake though by getting the 4x6 screen mesh in believing that the holes are rombs. Yeah, they are rectangulars... i couldn't notice that on the photos and this is my firt time using such a PE screen. Nevertheless, i think i can place the screen at an angle so they can look as rombs. I plan to start from the landing gear and make everything moveable again, for "2 models in 1" - in a parked and in-flight mode. The canopy, the gear, all the control surfaces and the bomb bays will close/open. As for the airframe - i have no idea yeat, but i think it will be one of the early Nighthawks, something Desert Storm-related in a full stealth mode with all the lights and antennas retracted and without the two RCS enhancers on the sides. Quite weathered as well. I'm only looking for a pilot figure and if i cannot find any, i plan to get the F-16 resin figure+seat set by Aires. But i'll wait on that one yet. Nighthawk!

MiG-23ML "4644" 1. SLP. Planá airport, České Budějovice, 1991 -first take-off of the aircraft was made on November 27, 1982 - fly to Czechoslovakia to ČB 22. 12. 1982 - total air raid 1136h and 41 minutes - The last flight took place on 26th October 2000 by Maj. Zdeněk Ouda Model: Trumpeter, Scale: 1/32 Author: Petr Pícha Photo: my frend Miloslav (thank you) Accessories: Aires-cockpit, nozzle, Wheels bay, avionics Eduard- photo etched part-exterior, Quickboost-cooling of aggregates Master-pitot tube, sparkers Linden Hill-Decals Customization: partially modified air intakes, APU-23, APU-60 -Helping keel - exhaust and suction channel of the turbostrarter - undercarriage legs -IR sensor -Other little things More Photo + building: https://www.leteckemuzeumliborezy.cz/mig-23/

Realistic, tasteful simply outstanding work Miloslave. Tonal breakdown of the olive drab shade looks fantastic, Bravo! Cheers M.

Excellent result!!

As far as I know, no final book was ever dedicated to the Ju-88 nightighter with a really interesting set of pictures. You only have chapters in Ju-88 books. I think one of the best references I got was the Trojca Ju88 volume 2 but it has more plans than anything else. Generally, books dedicated to German nighfighters have a better coverage than the Ju88 books and, by the way, the situation is quite similar for the Me110G4. Out of my memory, the old Model Art dedicated to Luftwaffe nightfighters is an excellent reference on that topic. Hth Thierry

Been a while since I caught up with your build. Looking great David! Good tips to know about the fit problems with the top and ball turrets too. I'll keep that in the back of the mind. You'll have this done in no time! Craig

Really looking forward to this one, Andy! Kev

Thanks Ron! Not too many parts to put together now. I’ve been doing the little stuff along the way so today i worked on sanding. Decided to start foiling with some basic shapes. To prep I’m using a ceramic tile as my flat nonstick surface . Bare metal foil adhsive, bondo spreader, flat brush, scissors and straight razor blades. clean parts with a lint cloth...my lesson learned, return to my auto painting days and the phrase, when you think you’ve got it clean, clean it again! Dang it’s hard to get a good picture of a reflective surface with an iphone. Take a look ver these. For those of you who’ve “been there, done that, bought the hat” could you let me know what issues you see and how I might improve? Here I found that i needed to start setting the foli from the other direction first. When i redid it I started burnishing from right to left. This made it so the foil laid into the step without “tenting” over the edge. See how i tore it at the bottom of the groove... Here’s a few shots of the part And finally, here’s a little experiment I’m trying. The trailing adges are sooooo thick. I looked at sanding then but alot of fine detail along the edges would be lost and I don’t think it will look nearly as nice if I have to redo it. So I took the foil out over the edge a bit and then sealed it. It seems to make a pretty nice, sharp edge. Will have to see if it deforms over time and with handling. Up close it’s got a little step to it but from an arms length away I don’t think you can tell. What do you think?