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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/12/2019 in all areas

  1. X15

    WNW Fokker DVII

    Hi everybody, Really happy to show you my last built, the famous WNW Fokker DVII, with HGW seat belt and Aviattics decals. Paint with Gunze and weathering with oil paints. Have nice building for 2019 !! X15
    12 points
  2. Thanks! I have started to add some different weathering effects now that the markings have been completed. The chipping on the wing roots needed to be toned down a bit, so I removed the tip of my airbrush and sprayed a lightened and thinned mix of SMS Forest Green around each of the chips. Removing the tip allows for very tight lines to be sprayed. The different colour green suggests fading and underlying primer. I will add a panel line wash as well as other effects to this area soon A good clear picture of a similar B
    11 points
  3. Hi to all I present my new MWP (metal work panels) project based on the Italeri Mirage IIIc 1/32 scale model kit: I chose the version (optional) ECT02 / 02 Côte D'or Dijon-Longvic 1970 (NMF finished) Aftermarkets: Eduard BigEd: part 1 & 2 Eduard Brassin: Wheels resin parts Scale Aircraft Conversions: landing gears Master (Air): Pitot tube & adapter for Italeri kit Berna Decals: for version ECT02 / 02 In this first session of work: I assembled, detailed and modified the cockpit: Te
    10 points
  4. Now the intakes present a much bigger problem, because they don’t exist at all and so far, there are no after-market ones available. Phase Hanger Resin is making some, but after at least 10 attempts to contact them and get a real date for delivery, I gave up and for the first time, tried to make some of my own. With small engine intakes and a fairly straight forward trajectory, I found some 5/8” OD/1/2” ID PVC pipe and gave it a whirl. Let’s call these “Econo-Intakes”, because they are nowhere near as good as resin ones, but they are better than nothing- and waiting for some to show up one
    8 points
  5. Thanks guys! This will no longer be a black-base build. I've done and sprayed the whole thing silver. Decanted Tamiya AS-12, thinned with Tamiya Lacquer thinner and some Mr Leveling thinner to help even out the coat. The plan now is to establish the putty lines and then apply hairspray over the wing roots to facilitate chipping afterwards. Not sure if I'll add some mottling to give the camo some tonal variation... maybe some color other than black.
    8 points
  6. Tonight I had some time while the wife was talking to her mom...can you say 2 hours lol. I made a splitter plate for between the intake and the fuselage. Dang this is small. It's 0.010 styrene. I made a spacer so I could hold it in place while using a needle to apply the CA. There's a 1st for me haha. Finished product! Some sanding and a little primer, then repeat for the other side. I'm getting closer to primer for the whole plane. I keep telling myself that...I thnk to keep the mojo up because every time I go into the workshop
    7 points
  7. That together with Mike's pictures is enough proof for me! Styrene strips added. I wasn't going for accuracy but more for a busy look. Two very very tiny bits added. The valves on the right console. They consist of stretched sprue and copper wire with (hardly visible) blobs of PVA glue on the tips. They're not perfect but that's the best I could do: Quick and easy was the installation of the HGW rudder pedals with their straps from Tamiya tape. Afterwards I was in the mood to do some more fiddly stuff. I started with the ca
    6 points
  8. Ok, finalizing things and rapidly heading for paint............... I had to rebuild a tab on the horizontal stabilizer I broke off, as well as getting the Revi 16b gunsight finished, as well as a multitude of other little things. First up was the gunsight since I had to put that in before mounting the windscreen (Apparently I also need to finish sand and repaint some of the pit sidewall/rear bulkhead too). Uggg, the macro lens is NO ones friend: Next up, I got the two rear engine cooling scoops mounted p
    6 points
  9. still some red overspray to correct. one stencil decal is applied. they work good (this means the F4U-5N decals will be availible - they are at the printer) man, black planes are hard to photogtaph.. 92 by karl holubar, auf Flickr 93 by karl holubar, auf Flickr
    5 points
  10. mark31

    where east meets west

    primer is on still needs some filler and sanding on some places so i know what to do Mark
    5 points
  11. Thanks Bryan! The answer is yes, as I will show again below. Peter, you make me blush, especially coming from the Master! Feb 12/19 Thankyou Gentlemen! With the front fuselage done, it’s now time to attack the rear fuselage. Before I go any further, many of the modifications I’m making I found in the LSP Kitty Hawk F-5E SIG thread, so thank you to everyone who pointed these out before. You guys tell me what’s wrong with this kit, and I’ll try to show how to fix them! My jet doesn’t have the chaff and flare disp
    5 points
  12. Just got a notice yesterday that Leading Edge Hobbies in Kingston, Ontario will be closing in June. The two brothers who owned the shop have decided to pursue other avenues and spend more time with their families. They have been a fixture in Kingston and area for 25 years, and have always been helpful and friendly. It is currently one of the largest hobby shops in Ontario, and of course also carries supplies for hobbies other than plastic models. They also provided space for meetings for various clubs. They will be missed. If they didn't have it they would happily order it. Like ot
    4 points
  13. Here are some renderings of the Beaufighter cockpit design at about 75% complete. Much work yet to do and much of what you see here will change, but you can get an idea of the design's potential. Changes will include the sidewall panels which will be replaced with simple beams supporting the instruments and throttle quadrants. Radios will be further detailed. The floor and bulkheads will be thinned, too. Other features will be added including a yoke, rudder pedals, heater duct, etc. The instrument bezels are sized to match Airscale 1/32 RAF instrument decals. I
    4 points
  14. Yak 9 arrived safe and sound - it is a thing of beauty. Many thanks to Silver Wings
    4 points
  15. some masking 90 by karl holubar, auf Flickr 91 by karl holubar, auf Flickr
    4 points
  16. themongoose

    Canopy polishing

    Took the canopies out from under the hood tonight. Ohh they look really good. These are going to show well and not detract from any other part of the build. Here's a collage of each stage for comparison.
    4 points
  17. Making some progress with the Red Tails, and here is where I'm comparing the MRP to the Vallejo paints. Originally thought that they were two different colors, but actually they are pretty close. BIG difference is that the MRP is glossy (Right) and the Vallejo is very flat/matte (Left) as shown here: Also notice the difference between Tamiya (left) and Academy (right) when it comes to sprue attachment points... Here are the fuselages. Working on getting the elevators attached but have to so some touch-up and respraying on the Academy elevators. Some
    4 points
  18. Yep , I doubt anyone could get their head in a position to see inside that hole It looks like an open access to what is probably a throttle tension adjustment.
    4 points
  19. Yes. Just make sure it's completely off-gassed before you close it up in a jar.
    3 points
  20. Indeed it is! I might finally have a reason to build mine, now. Kev
    3 points
  21. sandbagger

    Fokker pair

    Hi all, I'm making a start on the 'full built' Fokker D.VII. Cockpit items (not yet completed) and flight control rigging and cockpit frame cross bracing. Mike
    3 points
  22. WNW have literally created a market that either did not exist or no one knew existed. Before WNW there was zero chance that anyone would do a new tooling kit of most of the kits WNW have released. Take WNW first release the Junkers J1. No manufacturer would have released that in 1/32 as no one would have thought that anyone would buy it. I am comfortable that as long as there is a scale modeling community there will be a demand for WWI aircraft. WWI airplanes have a certain inherent attraction. Their use of wood, fabric and colorful markings will always leave us with a reaso
    3 points
  23. The UK government is already thinking about this which means the likes of Amazon and Evilbay will finally have to pay the right amount of tax in the country they earn the money from. Gets my vote all day long. It's a total con when a highstreet shop pays more in tax than a multi-national company.
    3 points
  24. My nearest model shop is still standing. But on the same street there are at least four empty premises that used to be clothes and shoe shops. On the same street there also used to be two shops selling electronics (TV, sound systems, computers, etc) and they closed too, one is now a cafe and the other is a phone repair shop. All shopping is changing, not only hobby shops. Brick-and-mortar hobby shops closing is not the "death knell" of the hobby. The hobby is thriving on line. High-street shopping of all kinds is under pressure from skyrocketing costs such as rent, utilities, wages, taxes. The
    3 points
  25. It is Wheels and Wings in the east end of the city...and they are very close to me. A bit too close...a champagne problem that I won't complain about. It does show that one can still run a top flight LHS. Like all the great remaining ones, it has embraced the old ways and incorporated the new. Hats off to them and their successful bretheren!
    3 points
  26. Thanks Tim, but nope. I owned a hobby/military history book store for a while and it's a hard slog that can be rewarding. Retail means long hours and small margins, and now you're competing with the whole world. I admire those that have survived and are thriving. I still prefer going to a store and browsing shelves more than browsing an online catalogue, but it's getting more difficult. Nope, thankful for my government job, pension and benefits, and thankful for the shops that still open their doors. Richard
    3 points
  27. It is a bummer. We are so lucky to have a LHS in Toronto run by two different generations that has turned itself into the best styrene model shop in the city. The real last one. Kudos to their customer service on every level. I have to drive twenty five minutes...but it's one stop shopping. Cheers to to the guys there who help at every level!
    3 points
  28. Out2gtcha

    Canopy polishing

    Personally Ive had the best luck doing exactly what you did Chris, sanding, polishing, and Future.
    3 points
  29. Bummer. All we have are two "Hobby Towns". We used to have several LHSs in town, but they too sadly closed up. A sign of the times for sure. Sad, but I can understand. Maybe if taxation on the internet was implemented, the small local guy would stand more of a chance.
    3 points
  30. Bummer to hear another shop is closing, But judging by the lack of responses sadly few care that another shop is going away and it is indeed a sign of the times. Hobby shops in general will be far and few between in the near future. Years ago a city population of 1 million would support 6 or 7 shops and now just 1 maybe 2 shops could probably supported. Warehouse e-businesses will take over the rest. It would be unwise to start up a shop these days unless you had a very large amount of money backing it and are not expecting to get rich. The old saying is true, if you want to make a million in
    3 points
  31. Unfortunately they are nearing the end of their run, 2045 will be a bad year for WNW.
    3 points
  32. MikeMaben

    Acrylic rod bending

    Yep, I've put a rod over a boiling frying pan (flat and shallow). Wear gloves and bend the center of the rod into the water until you can turn it sideways and get more of the rod in the water. Once it's soft wrap it around a jar or can to your desired radius.
    3 points
  33. Out2gtcha

    Canopy polishing

    I've used a dremel for polishing before, but not canopies......its just too dangerous IMHO. Even at the super slow speed, a bit too much pressure and you will melt the canopy. If you are stl seeing a hazy canopy when done it's likely you need to start with a slightly coarser grain of polishing cloth than you originally started with. Cant say how much time to spend on each segment as all clear parts can be different. You may also want to spend a bit more time with the heavy polish to get more of the larger scratches out then move to the fine. You also may need to use a polishing clo
    3 points
  34. Some progress.. Number 22 painted to red by using Montex masks. After that, landing legs installed and oil paint weathering applied.
    3 points
  35. I was spoiled living in the Dallas are for 15 years, there were no less than 6 hobby shops I could go to withing a half hour drive, unfortunately, since I moved to Nashville, there are only two hobby shops, but one concentrates on trains and games, has almost no model supplies, and the other is primarily an RC shop, but they are trying to stock more plastic hobby supplies, but their kit selection seems to be the same crap Hobby Lobby carries. I have talked with my wife a while back about opening a hobby shop, but I have trouble justifying the need for it in this market, as other s
    3 points
  36. Time to force myself to take a break and let some glue dry. I've got the fuselage halves together. Originally I thought I would use putty to build up the belly but looking at it yesterday it just seemed like too much. I am afraid it will crack in the future. Thought about it overnight and didn't really have a good solution until just a little bit ago. I cut out the shape I wanted from some styrene sheet and then used my heat gun to soften it and shape it. Now I need some thin sheet along the side and it will take just a little bit of putty to taper all the edges into the fuselage.
    3 points
  37. Hi Darren, The brass inserts are exactly the same a the kits - and will be strong. The SAC set is a direct copy of the kit parts as well (with the plastic jackets fitted) - but, from experience, won't be strong. You takes your pick. The shapes of the kit parts are out I reckon - but you stand a better chance of fixing by using the brass set and modding the plastic jackets to suit. Iain
    3 points
  38. Hello , It's a longer time now since I have postet my last build here. But finally I have made some pictures of my latest Wingnut build and would like to share it with you for discussion. Maybe it is not one of my best ones but it was a lot of fun to build. It was the first time for me to work with "wood decails" and I must say the quality of those included in the kit was really great. Hope you like the result , if not please let me know your recommendation for making it better next time :). Peter
    2 points
  39. Just buy both you know you want to. I probably will.
    2 points
  40. Mine packed up and moved across town a few months back. Kind of logistically makes sense seeing how they were the only game in town, they were a good 15-20 miles out of the central area. New location puts them in the middle of all the suburbs of Columbia and Lexington. They never were big on stocking kits I build, but I did drop a lot of coin on paints, glue and other supplies. I guess I need to make a shopping list and take the drive across town. Then again, paying $8-$10 for shipping is better than eating up a few hours and gas money for a 40 mile round trip.
    2 points
  41. We have no LHS near to us. Even the one down where i was born has gone. I tend to use one shop online now as he is more often than not the cheapest i've found in the UK (and he runs a forum). His service is second to none. But i think the shops in the highstreet have had their day because they have bigger overheads due to physically owning a shop and foot-fall (people passing by) is smaller than years gone by. It's a shame really as i love going into a shop and chatting and physically seeing the items.
    2 points
  42. BiggTim

    Canopy polishing

    I've been using a dremel for years and have never melted one yet. The trick is to use the right wheel. Nothing is safe but the soft cloth ones, in my experience. However, I HAVE ruined them by cracking them and/or shooting them across the room many times doing that, so that's something to watch out for.
    2 points
  43. themongoose

    Canopy polishing

    out2gtcha when using the novus can you estimate how long you spend polishing with each stage? I still seam to have a hazy canopy when I’m done. Wondering if I’m just not spending enough time to really get the surface smooth? Do you use a dremel or polish by hand?
    2 points
  44. First update. I built the 12 supplied Mk82 slicks in the kit, plus four more. Will try casting the six more required next for total 22. Fins were reshaped to be a lot thinner, plus added texture to the front half with Bondo putty. Fuses to be painted separately: Chicken and egg problem next - I want to detail up the MERs but I needed to work out the proper sway brace locations and see if the weapon pylons inner details were visible (theyre not a flat filled edge with notches for the sway braces as Trumpeter molds them). Was easy to modify, just cut aw
    2 points
  45. I still cannot believe so many people are taking this thread so seriously (no offence to the OP). WNW are like Tamiya. They do what they want, when they want and how they want. We as a consumer probably don't dictate their way of thinking when it comes to releases As said earlier. Build them and enjoy them.
    2 points
  46. Entropy! Eventually everything will end. :-) Might as well give up! :-) Radu
    2 points
  47. Working on both ends this weekend. Trying hard to get to a point where i can prime it all 1 color. There were gaps at the exhaust. The Belcher bit kit instructions said to expect it to be rough and that it should be sanded down. To keep the overall length and avoid trying to square everything up i decided to add a spacer. Turned out to be perfect because now there’s a slight gap between the nozzles whereas before they touched at the base of them. on the nose I worked to scribe the new panel lines. Started with a template to sketch it out in pencil.
    2 points
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