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About Dainis

  • Rank
    LSP Junkie
  • Birthday 08/07/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Toronto Ontario
  • Interests
    Modelling interests include WW1 and II aircraft and first and second generation jets. I got back ito the hobby to relearn old skills and educate myself in new techniques with the goal of doing real justice to my builds, especially first world war subjects.

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  1. Those are exactly the four Korean war vintage aircraft that I've built. You truly are a gentleman of discriminating taste.
  2. I've used Gunze, AK, Tamiya for roundels...I don't know if any is a perfect match. I like to mix paint by Mk I eyeball and dab a mix onto the decals while they are protected by the plastic bag they are sealed in. Adjust colour until it looks like...what you think it should like like, if that makes any sense. And assuming your decals are in proper colour register..And we can't get MRP in Canada for whatever reason, so no comment on that.
  3. You're probably right that I'm playing with fire. A couple of costly mistakes the first few times..seem to have solved it. But yes, risky to some extent nonetheless.
  4. If you haven't used an airbrush, I suggest using a Paasche Talon, Iwata Eclipse or a Badger Patriot. I have all three(I am an airbrush junkie, and I admit I have a problem). All three have self centring nozzles. Meaning the nozzles are large, don't need be screwed in(except the Talon, but it itself is large and super easy to remount). And super easy to clean. I basically learned how to airbrush well with Talon. Cleaning with lacquer thinner is easy and super effective. If you are going to try using an airbrush(the results, with some practice are awesome!) try one of these I mentioned. And I st
  5. Now that is some serious airbrush hygiene My Dentist would be proud.
  6. I think I still have a B25 Revell/Monogram from the seventies sitting in my parents basement.(They have kept everything I ever did as a child and teen). That would be a trip down memory lane!
  7. Great idea for putting the nozzle back on! I've used the method of holding the nozzle while turning the body of the airbrush to secure the nozzle back onto the body. It works. Tried your method.
  8. Remove the nozzle every time you're ready to clean the airbrush for bedtime. The nozzles are very tiny so remove them over a box (I use the Iwata box) so they wont fly away. Practice putting on the micro nozzles with your hands, then just a micro turn with the wrench. I say micro because I have ruined two nozzles threads on a HBC Iwata nozzle and a Mr Hobby Creos Iwata micron clone. But lesson learned. Removing the nozzle and cleaning after every paint session will eliminate almost all problems. Every once in a while I drop my nozzles into a jar of lacquer thinner for a few minutes to get any
  9. Saab Gripen JAS 39 with Canadian markings. They are lobbying after all...Tamiya produces the model, the aftermarket decals from various sources...and once I regain consciousness from my coma, ahhhh, no. Like never. But dare to dream!
  10. My experience with Tamiya flat that it gives a "cloudy" finish, rather than a nice matt finish. But I only used it once.
  11. Sorry, one more thing, and I apologise in advance for asking the question, do you remove the nozzle every time you clean? The reason I ask is that you want to pull the needle all the way through the body of the airbrush. Again, sorry for asking such an obvious thing.
  12. Do you use lacquer thinner as your cleaner? I also own an Iwata CPlus. After blowing lacquer thinner through the airbrush, I pass the needle all the way through multiple times, each time wiping down the needle with a dampened paper towel infused with lacquer thinner until the needle comes out clean of paint. Any residue left in the bottom of the cup I deal with a q tip soaked in the thinner. I rarely break my airbrushes all the way apart. My experience is that it more than suffices. One thing as you probably already know: Lacquer thinner will strip any kind of lubrication from the needle and
  13. Going on a limb here, but I bet they don't fold up like a cheap suitcase as is the case with certain other products...Can't wait to try some when they produce undercarriage for a kit I'm in the process of producing or going to!
  14. I'm preparing to chip my F4U with AK Worn Effects sprayed over Alclad Racing Silver, which is itself sitting on Mr Surfacer 1500. Should I protect my silver finish with a varnish, even though worn effects is a pure acrylic? One more question: If I thin Tamiya XF 4 with levelling thinner will it attack the silver finish when chipping? Should I thin the Tamiya paint with x20A instead?
  15. Too late. I used the high speed silver over black 1500 base. Worked great. I think the black base toned down the super shininess of the alclad. All good
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