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About VintageEagle

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    Hooked For Life

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  1. Outstanding work! Looks fabulous. I wish my 190A will look only half as good when finished.
  2. Small update: I applied the same process to the elevators. Designing the vector graphic artwork for the Cricut cutter took most of the time. The elevators were also sanded to have a thin trailing edge. Next, I'll apply a clear coat to seal the decals. Then the trim tabs will be fabricated with thin plastic sheet. I'll then probably return to the wheel bay. I'll do the ailerons later. First a look at the original: Then the different steps and results in 32 times smaller: (1) Masks and Mr Surfacer 500 applied: (2) Masks removed and surface polished: (3) Decal stripes added:
  3. Looks great! Only one thing I noticed is that the control stick is installed pointing backwards. It should be turned by 180 deg around the vertical axis to point forward.
  4. Hi Peter, That looks fantastic. I have this kit waiting to be built and will closely follow your WIP. How did you apply the oil streaks and spots on the wheelbay parts? That looks very realistic! Cheers, Roger
  5. Hi everyone, I was struggling with figuring out the best way to attach wires, cables, etc. inside the wheel well and thought it is best to focus on other parts first before I finish the wheel wells. I glued, sanded and riveted the elevators. I also designed the serial number on the PC as a vector graphic. The original was handpainted and had some irregularities. Peter from @airscale was so kind to help me get the number printed on a decal sheet. Thank you very much Peter! I then worked on the rudder. I didn't like the raised ribs on the Revell rudder and removed them. I also made the bulge for the tail light smaller to match it more with the original. I then worked on another vector graphics of the rudder ribs using the original Focke Wulf drawing. I then cut the ribs with my Cricut cutter and used the following process: 1) Applied the ribs to act as a positioning guide for the inner parts 2) Applied the inner parts 3) Removed the ribs 4) Sprayed Mr. Surfacer 500 5) Removed the inner parts --> the ribs now are slightly raised vs. the inner parts 6) Applied strips of black decal sheet to imitate the fabric tape that was applied on the original Next, I'll add a layer of white Mr. Surfacer 1500 and hopefully the effect is as expected. It was a lot of work and I'll have to use a similar approach for the elevator and ailerons as well. That's all for now. Next will be a short update after I have applied paint to the rudder. Cheers, Roger First, a photo of an original rudder where you can see the rib structure and fabric tape: Then, the process to recreate this (to the right the unaltered Revell part for comparison):
  6. I’ll check if I can find photos of the parts. Good to know that there is another option for the ip and seat!
  7. Thanks John. I now remember this set from years ago when I started the Trumpeter Me 262 (never finished it). At least some parts of it could be used for upgrading the Revell kit. Will check if it is still available. That looks not bad. Have not yet seen any photos of the actual parts. I would probably repaint them to ensure the same grey on all cockpit parts. The cabin pressure gauge was never installed (except prototypes) and the engine instrument layout are for an early production Me 262. After simplification efforts at the end of 1944 the difference pressure gauges and oil pressure gauges were no longer installed. The red/white coloring of the instrument rings were only done in this way by JG 7 (I have copies of wartime documents that confirm this). The round counters and indicators underneath were only installed in early production aircraft.
  8. I am asking about the new tool kit. It is not a re-box of the Hasegawa one, but a completely new one. The first one was the nightfighter (B), last year the fighter/fighter-bomber versions were added. The Eduard instrument panel is too flat (as it is a PE panel) and the instrument configuration is incorrect (both A and B versions). It seems the best way is to build the panel from scratch or improving the kit panel / cockpit. I wonder why companies like Aires (do they still exist?) or also Eduard did not produce a resin detail set. Maybe the margin for those are smaller than for PE parts.
  9. Hello, My next project will be a Revell 1/32 Me 262 A. I have tried to find a decent resin detail set for the cockpit, but couldn't. Only Eduard's PE detail sets. For the instrument panel, seat, etc. I prefer resin. The Me 262 is quite a popular aircraft. Why has no after-market brand produced a decent detail set (yet)? Or does anybody know of one that is available or will hit the market soon? Thanks, Roger
  10. It looks so easy when you do your magic, but I know it is not. Excellent and clean work.
  11. Hello all, thanks a lot for your help and Tolga for his e-mail address! Much appreciated. I’ll try to contact him. Cheers, Roger
  12. Hello, I have been trying to find a Fw 190 A/F propeller from Henri Daehne. Does anybody know how and where to order one? Thanks, Roger
  13. John, yes, here is a photo of this plane (I believe that I even bought the original at eBay, but would have to check my collection first to be sure):
  14. Great subject! I’ve seen the original last fall. There are three D-13 documented by photos, not just two. I published a photo of a wreck at Gardelegen in my book. Later another photo appeared, which I have published here: https://vintageeagle.com/2017/12/11/addendum-ce-vol-i-photo-46-fw-190-d-13/ However, as most if the fuselage was burnt out, no details of its markings are known. There was a AB canister attached, so I assume it was already assigned to an operational unit. Just as a side info. Looking forward to your build! Cheers, Roger
  15. PS: Found this one from a French supplier and ordered it: https://www.decals-virages.com/en/decalcomanie/139-virgin.html?search_query=bmw&results=1 Thanks for the advice Mark. I am sure it will look great. Cheers, Roger
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