1to1scale

Making progress, I’m uploading pics I’ll post later.

Lee, add a brown wash to the figures, the wipe it off all the high spots. You would be surprised how well it works.

looking good.

I’m in the not going to buy it camp. I am building a special cabinet that’s 30” deep and 60” wide to hold large bombers, but the Lanc is not one that interests me enough to buy it. It will be holding a B-17, B-24, P-61, and a B-25 (and hopefully a B-29 one day). However, I do buy Wingnut kits because they are fantastically engineered, so, I may buy the WNW Lanc eventually if the price is not more than $400.

You took great photos, it’s what convinced me of my opinion. Look at pictures of the interior of sanding he real aircraft, the Lanc has a lot of square edges and corners, none of them are rounded over, they are all sharp and defined. The HK interior parts all have soft round edges, and I don’t believe in the “limitation of injection molding” cop out. It’s like the the difference between a Tamiya and Revell Corsair kit, the differences are noticeable. And no I am not comparing the HK to the yet to be made Wingnut, what I am saying, is that injection technology is advanced enough to make better quality kits. The HK Lancaster is the most expensive bomber to date, and I expected better from them. For $100, no big deal, but not for a top of the range kit. This thing is much more money than the B-17, and that is why I expect the best, but I don’t think we are getting the “best”. Again, my opinion, my money. I know people will buy this, build it, and make a beautiful kit. I can also see that there will be a Big Ed kit for it, as there is room for improvement, but at the top of the range, it should already be there.

Yeah, but can you imagine the pile of poo in that technicians pants when it stopped? I bet he was dripping all the way to the Colonels office! In all seriousness, planes are lost every day, at least he was not hurt, no one killed, and everybody got to go home. Judging from the crew ladder, the pilot made it out. Although, Im sure he needed an underwear change also.

I took a really close look at the HK sprues for this kit, I have to say I am VERY disapointed. there are tons of ejector pin marks in visible places, the bomb bay pins are impossible to sand. A lot of interior structures have soft edges. I would expect this from a $100 kit, not a $350+ kit. I dont think I would buy this kit at all, especially knowing there is a better one a year away.

I have a roller type rivet tool, but I’m looking for a toll I can press in single rivets, both a divot and a small circle, to mimick a screw or dzus. Can anyone point me where to look for one?

Amazing work!

So far, my impression is lukewarm, even though at first glance it looks nice, I have found a lot of trimming, adjusting, sanding, shaping, and adjusting.

Yup, I am building it now.

I LOVE TO DREDGE UP OLD THREADS!

Here is another trick, when you glue things together with CA, the CA becomes brittle after a few days, and if you accidentally bump it, the parts break off. No way around this, it’s just a nature of the glue. Also it will fog clear and opaque parts. Tip 1 However, I recently tried some new stuff, it’s called Flexy CA. They make it in several types, but the theory is, it does not dry brittle, it has a tiny bit of flex. I have two versions, in is Flexy Resin, formulated to grip resin pieces, and another thinner, Flexy PE, to hold metal to resin or plastic. They stuf sets up in about twice the time of “purple” CA, but does not completely harden for 24 hours, so you can separate the parts forcefully, but without damage within a few hours. I have this stuff, a little pricy, but worth it!I tested it with some scraps, and it works very well! Tip 2 CA fogging plastic and clear parts. I solved this problem on the 80’s, by accident. When I was a wee teen, I built a GTO, and glued the clear windows into the body shell using CA glue. I left it sitting with a weight on it in the window with a box fan blowing out the window, two days later, the windows were clear and fog free, I unknowingly discovered this, because the next model I left sitting, and all the windows has frosted with fingerprints, this is where my LHS suggested micro mesh, which worked. However, i was curious why this happened. I started experimenting, and I found that 100% of the time, if there was sufficient breeze past the parts, it would never fog. So, if you use CA anywhere near clear parts, like in a fuselage, then just set it in front of a fan for 24 hrs and let it outgass in the breeze.

Great review, I opened my Fly IIc box yesterday to fondle all the parts, and damn...the detail on the exterior is freakin beautiful. I will build this kit, even with all the challenges, it just takes a little old time modeling craftsmanship to bring it all together. In reality, once you get the cockpit assembled, the rest is not so bad.

I have used a bunch, and I agree, the self adhesive never lets go. So far they stick. Honestly, I don’t like the flatness either, but sometimes lazy wins out. It only takes a few minutes with the SA panels. However, Yahu makes a much nicer panel, but choice is limited. Also, a new player is the new Eduard Look series. I wish more makers made PE panels, but with acetate backs. My P-40B has a beautiful acetate panel.