cbk57

If you solder, I would test first. Is there any extra metal with the gear leg, like an attachment runner it came on? You would want to see what the melting point of the metal is and get a solder that melts below that temp. A variable temp soldering iron is essential also so you can keep total heat low enough not to damage your metal. TAmiya white metal is some sort of relatively hard white metal. For example my experience is that is harder and more solid than what SAC uses for their gear. However Tamiya’s metal parts melting point is probably still below the working temp of typical off the shelf solder.

I feel like in the hobby market we are in now, someone will realize there is a place for basic 1/32 airplanes with great external detail and just the necessities on the inside who will issue such kits. HKM could step into that roll in a heartbeat and own a number of great subjects with a lot less expense than doing Uber kits that so many of us want. However there is always a market for just the basics which deserves being served.

Ferrari 126, is that the MFH kit in 1/12? Is the other Tamiya 1/12? Amazing work.

It is a little more work, but purchase a second kit if you want more parts and sell the unneeded sprues on ebay. You may get all of your money back or most of it in that manner. There are a number of parties on ebay now parting out kits.

I am sure they are not to scale but I am thinking Tamiya p-51D series. Whatever the scale I have been more than satisfied with Tamiya’s proportions and execution of the engine relative to the cowlings along with fit. I am no fan of Revell

In part for me yes, however in part no. My favorite kits are the Tamiya ones with removable cowlings and such where you can close it up or open it up depending on the day or your mood. If I have a choice of open engine or closed engine only then I am going closed engine. The P-51B has something of a complex canopy, I would like to see open and closed options engineered into the design. I prefer not to be committed into one or the other. I like having the extra detail but I like being able to enjoy the lines of the plane so I want the option to open or close vs having to commit to all open or closed because the panels cannot be retained in place or won’t fit with the engine fully detailed and installed.

I will get my hopes up now that at the may hobby show there will be a 1/32 BF-109G6. This 1/72 announcement is off cycle as it was not at any other hobby show, just showing up now in their ordering, thus reported by scalemates. I bet we see it officially announced at the German hobby show unless it really does drop in February which would be unusual. So that leaves the slot open for a larger more elaborate kit at shizuoka, which is where they usually do major all new 1/32 announcements. So hopefully that is what we will see announced in May of 2019 a 1/32 109G. I will be good for one personally. I don’t care for the Hasegawa kit that much. One solution I would like to see in the Tamiya kit is some sort of pose able canopy. Either have interchangeable open and closed canopies or something on that order. I don’t think a working hinge economical, Radu did that with his brass set and it is increadibly complex. To me opening engine compartment is a given. I would also like landing gear to be removable and posed up or down like the Spitfire and Mustang. One of my dislikes about the BF-109 is the side opening canopy as posed on the ground, canopy close covers the cockpit too much, canopy open to me ruins the lines of the plane. So if you could interchange between the two in some manner that would be ideal.

I wold buy and build a p-38, almost no chance I would buy a 1/32 B-29. Call me bad names but a 1/48 B-29 would be more than enough, not sure I would buy one of those either, but would prefer my 4 engine bombers in 1/48. All could use new high quality tooling versions, the monogram ones are really old now.

Me too

I guess this is the answer to does any need another 1/35 t-34? They do one in 1/32. Who knows, I don't have much inclination towards the t-34/85, I am more interested in the earlier versions. Not sure what I think of starting an armor line in 1/32, however a vehicle line in 1/32 would be really smart, along the lines of jeeps and other equipment that could cross over between aircraft dio and general military modeling.

I don’t think the canning appearance would be beyond HKM’s capacity. The convention in 1/32 scale has been that manufacturers were not attempting to replicate that type of effect. WNW chose to go to greater lengths which simply is typical of WNW, I don’t think that is a commentary on HKM’s capability. We all know the HKM make really nice detailed kits. WNW chose do go another step. Regardless of CAAD technology the time spent to create more surface detail on such a large area is an greatly added expense and risk in the design process. After all if it all goes wrong and looks like garbage when the molds are done regardless of CAAD usage it could all be a big waste of money. So WNW chose to take on the additional challenge. Please keep in mind I don’t mean this as a criticism of HKM, their lancaster looks wonderful. Some may not want the wrinkly look on their plane also in due course there will be two choices which is good for the world of people that want to model Lancaster’s.

This is mostly work from last week but just now getting around to posting it, after a nice holliday and with some help and advice from members on this site I was able to correct my wheel wells which will be shown and landing gear which are not yet photographed. I had to stop and do some other work. As you can see in the back ground of the first photo there is a blue MGB. That was my moms Christmas gift and had to be finished for the Holliday so I had to leave the Corsair alone for a while. I matched it to her customized car and she was really pleased. I am trying to replicate a finish that has seen some use but per GSB, is not too marked up. I will add some really light chipping and remove some paint from fasteners, otherwise thorough pin wash with some fuel stains, exhaust stains and that will be about it. I am using some blue filters to alter the fabric areas relative to the metal surfaces just to add some visual difference between the surfaces.

This is a big depends for me. Take the recent build of Lou IV on here where the builder went to great lengths to accurately depict the correct look of the plane with historical research to back it up. That I would say is the gold star standard and since it is a famous subject that is highly debated because many have been unsure of what colors we were really looking at was in my opinion important work at least in the modeling world. I never go to that length, I find there are always compromises. I typically want to do something that is not necessarily in the box and will look for well researched markings, then I will do my own research and see what I can find in the way of photos. Sometimes photos don’t give all the answers though and there will be a detail for example only one side of plane is photoed and personally markings might or might not be on both sides of the plane. If there is though those markings were on both sides and no one is sure I will typically add to both sides. Then there are just the flaws in my execution as I try to aproximate the look of the real subject but overshoot in some regards and miss in others. There is a limit to how far I will go to get it perfect. I also artistically want to make a model that is interesting to look at, so the story may get embellished. That could be weathering, or some marking variation that is debated, it could be somewhat speculative as I guess how the model would have looked at a certain time because a photo was taken at a known date and I want a slightly latter look as maybe the plane was cleaned up and perfect for the photo op.

Thanks for explaining, I actually did paint that area chromate yellow but I did my plane flaps up. I painted just in case any area might not get paint. As you know even flaps up the wing area of a Tamiya Corsair is enormously complex and paint does not get into every little visible space.

Thanks, all, I am going to repaint my wheel wells, I don't fully understand the bit from Dana's post about no bulkhead forward of the flap cove, but in the wheel wells I am going GSB as well as the doors now. Hope to get this done on the weekend but am building a model car for Mom for Christmas, she had a MGB years ago customized, that has to get finished up for the holliday.