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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 13 points

    F-86F Hasegawa 1/32

    I've used the Hasegawa 1/32 Canadair Sabre Mk.6 kit to build this F-86F on the beginning of Dec 2018. I was interested in exploring the visual expression of Natural Metal Finishing type of aircraft. I've used the Alcled II lacquers for the painting. With the limited colors and experience I have, this is best I can do at that time. F-86F Sabre 40, Hasegawa 1972 kits, rebox on 2005, 1/32 with raised panel lines.
  2. 9 points
    The 2nd 1/32 kit in my Natual Metal Finishing projects. I spent most of my 2018 Christmas and New Year holidays on it. F-100D Super Sabre 1/32 Trumpeter Kit with Alcled II Lacquers. I've tried not to ink on any panel lines. Instead, using the delicate control of airbrush and compressor PSI to express the idea of metal panels.
  3. 9 points
    small progress fit was so far great after I have attached the nose I have realized that I dont like the shape of the lower part of fuselage behind the nose, will check some reference pics fuselage taking the shape 30mm cannon, it will be almost completly hidden wheels wells thanks for looking jan
  4. 6 points
    So I'm moving along just great on my phantom when I knocked it off the desk onto the floor. Not just any fall but a hard disasterous fall! It broke both wing tips off, broke the nice seal from the wing to fuselage, broke the HUD off and the seam to one of the exhausts busted open. This came the day after I dropped the canopy frame on the floor. No big deal except when I moved my chair back and rolled over it with the chair wheels! So this thing was destined to the shelf of doom but I'm one of those that can't just let if go. I have a few unfinished models but only because I got bored with them. So I took a break for a few days and decided to get back to it. I had a hard time deciding if I should display the wings extended or folded so since I had to start over, I decided to fold them. This is taking a lot of work to clean up the parts and remove the evergreen strips I added on to get the correct wing angle. The wing fold mechanism broke into several pieces on one of the wing tips so that is proving a challenge to fix. I got the HUD glued back on but the join just doesn't look as clean. I had to separate the wing to fuselage join to clean it out. I used superglue last time which I think may have caused it to separate on impact. This time I used extra thin cement and the join seems fairly strong. I just need to re-fill the small gap with surfacer. Here is some work that I had done before the disaster: The little intakes near the nose are too long. They are even with the nose which isn't the case with the photos I've seen. I cut off about 2mm but I probably should have taken off 3mm. At least it's better than it was. These don't have a hard line where they attach to the fuselage, they have a blended look. There is also an AOA that goes in this panel for the Naval version phantom. Not sure how this happened but the splitter plate was in the way of the sparrows. The only option I had was to sand them down a bit. I also thinned the little intake part to the splitter. Oh and thanks for the photos of the rocket part of the sparrows guys! Hopefully things go a bit smooth from here, this model is fighting me every step of the way. I'm gonna have to build another corsair just to get my mojo back haha. Thanks for stopping by fellas... Bryan
  5. 5 points

    Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1A Corsair

    Hello everyone. This is my maiden post here on the forum although I’ve been lurking around for about a year now. I really enjoy following the amazing builds on the site, what a talented bunch here. I’m 43 years old and have been an aviation buff since early childhood. I am new to modelling, as I never had the opportunity when I was a child. One of my favorite toys growing up was an already built Corsair model that I found. It was only the fuselage and wings, the rest had fallen or broken off before I found it. Regardless, I loved it haha. Now some 35 years later I’m building my own Corsair. I’ve built four 1:48 scale fighters over the past year and I’m now stepping up to 1:32. I’m still very green at this and the only thing I have going for me is I have a cutting mat and I use Tamiya thin cement (so I at least look the part!) I will do my best with this build and I would surely appreciate any feedback. Please don’t be afraid to give it to me, you won’t hurt my feelings. After all, I would like to improve and advice from others will help me tremendously. I may not always make the suggested corrections with this build but I will certainly take the advice for future projects. Hopefully others new at the hobby that are following this thread can pick up some tips from my mistakes. On to the build. I’m building Tamiya’s 1:32 F4U-1a, everything straight from the box and I’m not adding any scratch built parts. Just keeping my fingers from being glued together will be a challenge enough for me. I’ve read great things about this kit so I thought it would be a nice introduction for me to larger scale planes. I haven’t decided whether or not to do the engine as I like the look of a closed up bird. So far I have the cockpit pretty much buttoned up. Here’s my progress so far.. Thanks for looking and allowing me to share this build here. -Robert
  6. 5 points

    HPH Me 410 A1/U4

    Thank you for the kind words. I made some more progress: installed the cockpit and radio operator compartment. It’s a very deceptive kit: it looks like it is going to be an easy fit but actually the main components do not fit at all without careful sanding. I was forwarned by Wouter’s build but it not expect it to be so difficult. Since these pictures I have managed to close the fuselage. I need now to clean up the seam and rescribed the lost details. More pics this week-end. Cheers, David
  7. 4 points

    B-24 Ditching test

    The only to see if it can be done: Jari
  8. 4 points

    1/48 Roden Pilatus Porter

    Finished this workhorse. My first Roden kit. Nice detail, but panel lines are wide and shallow. Added details include an aluminum spinner, turned on the lathe. Thanks for looking, comments welcome.
  9. 4 points

    Bf 110D-3 III./ZG26 North Africa/Sicily

    Here are some photos to show that I have been getting a little accomplished. I've also managed to lose several parts on this kit. First was the throttle console which flew off into oblivion when I was trying to bend the Eduard PE part to match its contours. I am working on my second scratch-built replacement. On this one, I think I will just use a paint marker to mark the grooves for the throttles, etc. Scribing the grooves didn't work very well the first time. I still have the Eduard PE pieces, but other than the levers, I am going to forego the PE for the throttle and use some Airscale placard decals and scratch-built details. The other part I lost was one of the MG17s. I have no idea what happened to it, but Shawn M (and Max, aka Mozart) offered to send me a replacement that he wasn't using. Sorry for the lousy photos. I have been having to use my phone to take the pictures because my good camera is on the fritz. My lighting is a little bad because one of my light stands is out of commission. Thankfully, I do not have a dead cat, as his chewing is what put the light stand out of commission. The seat harnesses are HGW, some from a set for a 2-seat Ar 234, and some from spares from other builds. I've also got the instrument panel done, but the photo is so out-of-focus that I'm not going to post it. Hope to have more to show soon. Bill
  10. 3 points
    It's Tamiya kit I've built on Nov 2018.
  11. 3 points
    Since I got back into the hobby last year, I can't seem to concentrate on just one build. In addition to the Bf 110D-3 I'm working on for the group build, I just started this Trumpeter kit. I had never used a clear instrument panel before, so I was looking forward to seeing how this one turned out. Alas, it was not to be. I had the glass parts of the instruments masked with Vallejo masking fluid, and while I was prepping some other parts for priming, the IP vanished. I think it stuck to my arm or shirt and got carried to some other part of the house. I will probably find my 'problem' cat playing with it one day. Luckily, I had an Eduard Bf 109G-6 IP available. It has an extra panel (external armament controls?) below the main IP, but I figure a photo-recce 109 would have a similar panel for controlling the camera(s). Here is a pic with the Micro Kristal Clear not yet dry (and a couple of unknown things stuck to the IP): The kit didn't include the fuel flow inspection line on the starboard sidewall, so I made an attempt at adding one. Hopefully it will look the part after painting. That's it for now. Bill
  12. 3 points

    F-15c Desert Aggressor

    My decals arrived so I can start! These are Two Bobs decals for the aircraft as it appeared after the 65th Aggressor Squadron was disestablished and the aircraft went to California.
  13. 3 points

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    A little more photo recon revealed an access panel that shouldn't be.. so have to fill, too bad I didn't notice until after I opened all the fastener holes for photo-etched parts, well at least I didn't glue all those in .... this panel is only on the left side of the cockpit.
  14. 3 points
    Mr b

    1/32 Intruder A

    Thanks SHawn i have got the engines done up.... moving along to the cockpit. hate the masking job ahead. the seats....still deciding if a crew should be included thats all for now rgds
  15. 3 points
    Thanks guys for all your comments! really apreciate it! I din't have much time during the week but at least the cockpit area is almost done and everything glued together thanks for looking jan
  16. 3 points

    HPH Me 410 A1/U4

    Thank you for the offer. I have the WWP publication with a very complete walk around of the Cosford museum Me 410, highly necessary reference given the fact that HPH instructions are rather vague. I plan to scratch build the BK5 and leave the bay open. My understanding is that with the BK5 mod, the Me 410 was not retaining the usual opening mechanism of the bomb bay but the two doors were screwed or riveted together and the whole thing was coming out as a unit when it was time to load or service the gun as shown in the picture above. I will cut the two doors, glue them together and I will look into embedding some tiny magnets in the door so I can show the bomb bay or close it at will. I made some good progress but this kit is not a run in the park, every little piece needs to be cleaned up and you need to be careful doing that as some parts are actually pretty fragile. A set of micro and pico saw from Radu are an absolute necessity. I have started sanding the fuselage. As was noted by Wouter in his build, you need to remove about a millimeter on each side of the fuselage (and more at the tail) otherwise the tail and the cockpit glass will not fit. I am in the middle of doing that but it takes time and it cannot be a rush job, plus it's bloody cold outside so the resin sanding sessions are always short... I am 90% done with the pilot cockpit and 60% done with the radio operator / gunner. I have chosen not to use the HPH/eduard colored etch for the cockpit as it is in a strange shade of blue which does not match the RLM66. I have used the resin pieces as they have pretty good details and used airscale dials and placards plus some careful painting with acrylics. I have cut a few items from the eduard photoetch when I could use them. All in all I am pretty happy with how it looks. On the pics below everything has been gloss coated in anticipation of some light weathering. I still need to add all the levers but will do that when I am ready to install the cockpit in the fuselage to avoid breaking them. As was the case for Wouter's build, you only have one half of the control stick in the box, the top half is missing. I followed Wouter's path by carving the top half from a piece of sprue and added bits and bobs, I still need to add some wires but you get the idea, should look better under paint: That's all for now. It is amazing to see all these ambitious builds going on at the same time, highly motivational. Cheers, David
  17. 2 points

    P-38J Lightning - Revell 1/32

    Hi guys! This is the kit I like to participate with. I'll start building it asap. Håkan
  18. 2 points

    HK Lancaster musings

    Greetings all! Been really busy with a lot of stuff in my life so I haven't been around here too much lately. With the HK Lanc finally out, I had a good look at one in my LHS and I'm impressed! But it figures it's finally out when things slow way down in my business, but that's life. Many of you may already know that I plan to convert one into a Lancastrian, Aries specifically. My father and his maintenance crew serviced her during the Karachi layover on the famous proving flight she made in 1946. I have a few photos Dad took of her at that time. When the time comes that I have one in my grubby paws, I'm debating whether to wait for a conversion kit & markings, or to get out the carving tools and make the nose & tail cones, and other specific bits, myself. With the latter in mind, are there any good accurate plans for the Lancastrian out there? With the former, I'm wondering if I should wait. Given the very little spare time I have nowadays, it's obvious a conversion kit would be the way to go. Then I'll have to figure out how & where to display it! Advice and commiseration would be greatly appreciated.
  19. 2 points

    D-day markings confusion

    Crashed on D-Day : http://www.americanairmuseum.com/media/19648 Painted something like this : http://www.americanairmuseum.com/media/8611 hth
  20. 2 points

    F-86F Hasegawa 1/32

    You did a fantastic job on that old kit! Kev
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points

    CSM Nieuport 17 (Late)

    Nearing completion of the cockpit: Some more wood work... More soon...
  23. 2 points

    1/32 Hasegawa P-40E Finished

    Ok friends a post with two objectives. First: I have begun the weathering on the 1/32 Hasegawa P-40E. Using both a cheap set of oils and Abteilung 502 paints. I want to give this build a finish that suggests a story of an aircraft that has seen some hard use but is still airworthy. The aircraft was based out of India and supported flights over the Burma hump. Now the second objective is the quality of the pictures. I have spent quite a bit of time over the last four or five days trying to dial in a better quality picture. These are the latest in the test. Please all comments, critiques, and criticism are encouraged. Joe
  24. 2 points

    1917 Sopwith Camel by Model Airways

    OK - I think I've figured out how these 100+ turnbuckles and turnbuckle/clevis components are going to be fabricated. Solder is definitely superior to super glue and the copper safety wire looks great against the brass buckle. I was also concerned that the final piece wasn't cleaning up as well as I liked but as I look at these photos, I kinda like the "grimy" look. I just realized however that I forgot to add the hex nuts at each end to allow the turnbuckle to be tightened. Hopefully the third time will be a charm. I think the safety wire in this picture may be a few millimeters too thick, but it's all I had in the shop tonight. I'll go with a slightly skinnier garage and I think we'll be right there. I almost cheated today when I was at the hobby store and discovered a set of Proctor Turnbuckles. But in the end, I think this looks better. Now I just have to figure out how to fabricate 100 of these given the fact that this ONE took about an hour!
  25. 2 points
    I got the wiring done behind the IP, of which there will be a surprising amount showing. There is the IP itself, and then an angled panel ahead of it that follows the contour of the base of the windscreen. The windscreen got finished off with some various sizes of plastic rod for instruments in the back, followed by some yellow wire used for car spark plug wires. Yes, I know, its overscale, but I still think it will look good under the windscreen when done. The forward angled panel I painted raw aluminum for some variation, and used some EZ Line in bundles to busy that area up: The angled aluminum panel went in first, as it dictates where the upper cowl/gunbreach panel sits, so I glued that in, then glued the top/gun breach panel in to that. You can see here I also glued in the forward nose ring, as it mates up to the top gun breach panel: I then glued in the two gun cover panels. Both of the panels fit fairly well with only a bit of force and a tiny bit of CA to take up a very minor gap. Sanding still to come: MORE..................