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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    alex1688

    F-86F Hasegawa 1/32

    I've used the Hasegawa 1/32 Canadair Sabre Mk.6 kit to build this F-86F on the beginning of Dec 2018. I was interested in exploring the visual expression of Natural Metal Finishing type of aircraft. I've used the Alcled II lacquers for the painting. With the limited colors and experience I have, this is best I can do at that time. F-86F Sabre 40, Hasegawa 1972 kits, rebox on 2005, 1/32 with raised panel lines.
  2. 9 points
    The 2nd 1/32 kit in my Natual Metal Finishing projects. I spent most of my 2018 Christmas and New Year holidays on it. F-100D Super Sabre 1/32 Trumpeter Kit with Alcled II Lacquers. I've tried not to ink on any panel lines. Instead, using the delicate control of airbrush and compressor PSI to express the idea of metal panels.
  3. 9 points
    Back to the wings... Wing tips lopped off by cutting along the relevant panel line with a fresh scalpel blade - taking care and multiple passes, the plastic is pretty thick. We'll come back to the tips shortly and concentrate on the main body of the wing just now... Strengthening webs removed completely from the rear half of the lower starboard wing, using Tamiya side-cutters followed up with some coarse sanding boards: Comparison with port-side equivalent: And current gap at rear - this will grow as we still have more material to remove from the upper-surface moulding: But - wing root - shape pretty well sorted now! Note - none of the webs further along have been cut yet - so there is a twist in the wing - this will go as we move down the wing with formers. First image - as kit - with some material removed - behind former: Upper and Lower wing sections wrapped around former - rear upper surface of wing will be straighter once bonded: Better? Iain
  4. 9 points
    small progress fit was so far great after I have attached the nose I have realized that I dont like the shape of the lower part of fuselage behind the nose, will check some reference pics fuselage taking the shape 30mm cannon, it will be almost completly hidden wheels wells thanks for looking jan
  5. 8 points
    Cheers Ryan... More work ahead - but really confident of a working solution now! Wing tips: earlier in the thread I mentioned the tip thickness - and this is one of the reasons I'm doing so much work on the wings. Thickness of the kit wing at the tip panel line is 11.66mm Chord is 50.79mm Thickness/Chord ratio on Davis B-24 wing at tip - 9.3% So - 9.3% of 50.79mm = 4.72mm - not the 11.66mm measured!! Of course a picture is worth a thousand words (or 2 thousand of mine!), port wing tip: But the real givaway is looking at the tip cross section: I'll be removing about 6mm depth (about half the kit thickness) to make things look a whole lot better - removing the wing strengthening webs, as shown in my previous post, is just the start of that. Of course, the knock-on is the alierons and flaps are too thick and will need fixing too - but let's get the wings sorted first... Right - off to put more stickers on a certain Spitfire. Have fun! Iain
  6. 6 points
    It's all hangin' on the model now... the X looks like it does in Jakes's book, Jake's book is the last word and that's that Also note the finished little Elta jamming pod: Here's a look at the completed ACMI pod: Cheers, Marcel
  7. 6 points
    So I'm moving along just great on my phantom when I knocked it off the desk onto the floor. Not just any fall but a hard disasterous fall! It broke both wing tips off, broke the nice seal from the wing to fuselage, broke the HUD off and the seam to one of the exhausts busted open. This came the day after I dropped the canopy frame on the floor. No big deal except when I moved my chair back and rolled over it with the chair wheels! So this thing was destined to the shelf of doom but I'm one of those that can't just let if go. I have a few unfinished models but only because I got bored with them. So I took a break for a few days and decided to get back to it. I had a hard time deciding if I should display the wings extended or folded so since I had to start over, I decided to fold them. This is taking a lot of work to clean up the parts and remove the evergreen strips I added on to get the correct wing angle. The wing fold mechanism broke into several pieces on one of the wing tips so that is proving a challenge to fix. I got the HUD glued back on but the join just doesn't look as clean. I had to separate the wing to fuselage join to clean it out. I used superglue last time which I think may have caused it to separate on impact. This time I used extra thin cement and the join seems fairly strong. I just need to re-fill the small gap with surfacer. Here is some work that I had done before the disaster: The little intakes near the nose are too long. They are even with the nose which isn't the case with the photos I've seen. I cut off about 2mm but I probably should have taken off 3mm. At least it's better than it was. These don't have a hard line where they attach to the fuselage, they have a blended look. There is also an AOA that goes in this panel for the Naval version phantom. Not sure how this happened but the splitter plate was in the way of the sparrows. The only option I had was to sand them down a bit. I also thinned the little intake part to the splitter. Oh and thanks for the photos of the rocket part of the sparrows guys! Hopefully things go a bit smooth from here, this model is fighting me every step of the way. I'm gonna have to build another corsair just to get my mojo back haha. Thanks for stopping by fellas... Bryan
  8. 5 points
    Robert

    Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1A Corsair

    Hello everyone. This is my maiden post here on the forum although I’ve been lurking around for about a year now. I really enjoy following the amazing builds on the site, what a talented bunch here. I’m 43 years old and have been an aviation buff since early childhood. I am new to modelling, as I never had the opportunity when I was a child. One of my favorite toys growing up was an already built Corsair model that I found. It was only the fuselage and wings, the rest had fallen or broken off before I found it. Regardless, I loved it haha. Now some 35 years later I’m building my own Corsair. I’ve built four 1:48 scale fighters over the past year and I’m now stepping up to 1:32. I’m still very green at this and the only thing I have going for me is I have a cutting mat and I use Tamiya thin cement (so I at least look the part!) I will do my best with this build and I would surely appreciate any feedback. Please don’t be afraid to give it to me, you won’t hurt my feelings. After all, I would like to improve and advice from others will help me tremendously. I may not always make the suggested corrections with this build but I will certainly take the advice for future projects. Hopefully others new at the hobby that are following this thread can pick up some tips from my mistakes. On to the build. I’m building Tamiya’s 1:32 F4U-1a, everything straight from the box and I’m not adding any scratch built parts. Just keeping my fingers from being glued together will be a challenge enough for me. I’ve read great things about this kit so I thought it would be a nice introduction for me to larger scale planes. I haven’t decided whether or not to do the engine as I like the look of a closed up bird. So far I have the cockpit pretty much buttoned up. Here’s my progress so far.. Thanks for looking and allowing me to share this build here. -Robert
  9. 5 points
    Garage21

    1917 Sopwith Camel by Model Airways

    First coat of stain on the first three sets of wing ribs. Went with English Walnut - wanted something just a little dark so that the brass and aluminum work will pop.
  10. 5 points
    Dukie99

    HPH Me 410 A1/U4

    Thank you for the kind words. I made some more progress: installed the cockpit and radio operator compartment. It’s a very deceptive kit: it looks like it is going to be an easy fit but actually the main components do not fit at all without careful sanding. I was forwarned by Wouter’s build but it not expect it to be so difficult. Since these pictures I have managed to close the fuselage. I need now to clean up the seam and rescribed the lost details. More pics this week-end. Cheers, David
  11. 4 points
    chrish

    CF-18 color bird

    This found it's way on to the bench last night but, may get bumped for a Revell He 111 H Some of the parts in the box...
  12. 4 points
    Finn

    B-24 Ditching test

    The only to see if it can be done: Jari
  13. 4 points
    kensar

    1/48 Roden Pilatus Porter

    Finished this workhorse. My first Roden kit. Nice detail, but panel lines are wide and shallow. Added details include an aluminum spinner, turned on the lathe. Thanks for looking, comments welcome.
  14. 4 points
    Erwin

    Propaganda Me. 117 P "Adler": FINISHED.

    Anno 1938. B.F. Me. 117 P "Adler"
  15. 4 points
    Ryan

    1/32 HK B-25J Meet Miss Runyon

    Thanks Az! Still fitting cockpit together and found something that may creep up on your build of this model. Watch out for the clearance of this small forward panel, you'll need to dry fit and trim it down a little to allow the instrument panel to fit. B-25J by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Ryan
  16. 4 points
    John1

    B-24 Ditching test

    the 3 cardinal rules of an aviator - Always look cool Never crash If you do crash, at least try to look cool
  17. 4 points
    I just made an test fit of the A-6A cockpit into the fuselage. Cockpit and frontal wheelbay and LG leg is completely finished. Stil i need to do some little detailing to the wheelbay and LG leg after i noticed some thing's i forget to do, photo's will follow. For now, here's the entire cockpit section dry-fitted into the fuselage. Regards Danny
  18. 4 points
    wmoran

    Bf 110D-3 III./ZG26 North Africa/Sicily

    Here are some photos to show that I have been getting a little accomplished. I've also managed to lose several parts on this kit. First was the throttle console which flew off into oblivion when I was trying to bend the Eduard PE part to match its contours. I am working on my second scratch-built replacement. On this one, I think I will just use a paint marker to mark the grooves for the throttles, etc. Scribing the grooves didn't work very well the first time. I still have the Eduard PE pieces, but other than the levers, I am going to forego the PE for the throttle and use some Airscale placard decals and scratch-built details. The other part I lost was one of the MG17s. I have no idea what happened to it, but Shawn M (and Max, aka Mozart) offered to send me a replacement that he wasn't using. Sorry for the lousy photos. I have been having to use my phone to take the pictures because my good camera is on the fritz. My lighting is a little bad because one of my light stands is out of commission. Thankfully, I do not have a dead cat, as his chewing is what put the light stand out of commission. The seat harnesses are HGW, some from a set for a 2-seat Ar 234, and some from spares from other builds. I've also got the instrument panel done, but the photo is so out-of-focus that I'm not going to post it. Hope to have more to show soon. Bill
  19. 3 points
    Brent

    Any Other Digital Hoarders Out There?

    Howdy Gang! I'm curious. Does anyone else have a hard drive packed with images and other model and history related stuff? How many times have I lost images because the host website went down? So, I keep them local when I can. I have spent hours clicking on thumbnails and saving images for my personal library. Does anyone have a suggestion for downloading images in bulk? It gets old clicking the thumbnail, save as, etc and repeat. I've seen some bulk downloader extensions for Chrome, but they don't open the links attached to the thumbnail. So, those don't solve the problem. I wish there was something easy I could use to mine a website. It would follow the links to download the large image. Here is an example. I'd like to download all the images linked from this page without having to manually open and save each one. https://www.worldwarphotos.info/gallery/germany/aircrafts-2/heinkel_he111/ Does anyone have a suggestion? I still have plenty of disk space! ß!
  20. 3 points
    It's Tamiya kit I've built on Nov 2018.
  21. 3 points
    Since I got back into the hobby last year, I can't seem to concentrate on just one build. In addition to the Bf 110D-3 I'm working on for the group build, I just started this Trumpeter kit. I had never used a clear instrument panel before, so I was looking forward to seeing how this one turned out. Alas, it was not to be. I had the glass parts of the instruments masked with Vallejo masking fluid, and while I was prepping some other parts for priming, the IP vanished. I think it stuck to my arm or shirt and got carried to some other part of the house. I will probably find my 'problem' cat playing with it one day. Luckily, I had an Eduard Bf 109G-6 IP available. It has an extra panel (external armament controls?) below the main IP, but I figure a photo-recce 109 would have a similar panel for controlling the camera(s). Here is a pic with the Micro Kristal Clear not yet dry (and a couple of unknown things stuck to the IP): The kit didn't include the fuel flow inspection line on the starboard sidewall, so I made an attempt at adding one. Hopefully it will look the part after painting. That's it for now. Bill
  22. 3 points
    Brent

    Transporting Aircraft

    Howdy Gang, I don't know where my old thread went. So, I will restart it. It's tough displaying some of these large models so I look for alternative ways. One of my solutions is to show the model in transport. I like seeing them out of context. They are easier to display with the wings off. The display is more interesting because it is on a flatbed trailer or something. Anyhoo, let's start this again.
  23. 3 points
    A-10LOADER

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    HobbyBoss and Trumpter are know for mirroring things. If there's something on one side it has to be on the other. This isn't always the case. Trumpeter's A-4M is a good example of this. Excellent work so far on the Harrier, keep it up. Steve
  24. 3 points
    Thanks for support guys! Iain
  25. 3 points
    Some progress.. Painting mostly done: Colors are RLM81/82 over RLM76
  26. 3 points
    Grant_T

    F-15c Desert Aggressor

    My decals arrived so I can start! These are Two Bobs decals for the aircraft as it appeared after the 65th Aggressor Squadron was disestablished and the aircraft went to California.
  27. 3 points
    patricksparks

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    A little more photo recon revealed an access panel that shouldn't be.. so have to fill, too bad I didn't notice until after I opened all the fastener holes for photo-etched parts, well at least I didn't glue all those in .... this panel is only on the left side of the cockpit.
  28. 3 points
    Mr b

    1/32 Intruder A

    Thanks SHawn i have got the engines done up.... moving along to the cockpit. hate the masking job ahead. the seats....still deciding if a crew should be included thats all for now rgds
  29. 3 points
    Thanks guys for all your comments! really apreciate it! I din't have much time during the week but at least the cockpit area is almost done and everything glued together thanks for looking jan
  30. 3 points
    Dukie99

    HPH Me 410 A1/U4

    Thank you for the offer. I have the WWP publication with a very complete walk around of the Cosford museum Me 410, highly necessary reference given the fact that HPH instructions are rather vague. I plan to scratch build the BK5 and leave the bay open. My understanding is that with the BK5 mod, the Me 410 was not retaining the usual opening mechanism of the bomb bay but the two doors were screwed or riveted together and the whole thing was coming out as a unit when it was time to load or service the gun as shown in the picture above. I will cut the two doors, glue them together and I will look into embedding some tiny magnets in the door so I can show the bomb bay or close it at will. I made some good progress but this kit is not a run in the park, every little piece needs to be cleaned up and you need to be careful doing that as some parts are actually pretty fragile. A set of micro and pico saw from Radu are an absolute necessity. I have started sanding the fuselage. As was noted by Wouter in his build, you need to remove about a millimeter on each side of the fuselage (and more at the tail) otherwise the tail and the cockpit glass will not fit. I am in the middle of doing that but it takes time and it cannot be a rush job, plus it's bloody cold outside so the resin sanding sessions are always short... I am 90% done with the pilot cockpit and 60% done with the radio operator / gunner. I have chosen not to use the HPH/eduard colored etch for the cockpit as it is in a strange shade of blue which does not match the RLM66. I have used the resin pieces as they have pretty good details and used airscale dials and placards plus some careful painting with acrylics. I have cut a few items from the eduard photoetch when I could use them. All in all I am pretty happy with how it looks. On the pics below everything has been gloss coated in anticipation of some light weathering. I still need to add all the levers but will do that when I am ready to install the cockpit in the fuselage to avoid breaking them. As was the case for Wouter's build, you only have one half of the control stick in the box, the top half is missing. I followed Wouter's path by carving the top half from a piece of sprue and added bits and bobs, I still need to add some wires but you get the idea, should look better under paint: That's all for now. It is amazing to see all these ambitious builds going on at the same time, highly motivational. Cheers, David
  31. 2 points
    Koralik

    Hawker Hunter Revell 1:32

    The model I made a long time ago, This is a model from the OLD SCHOOL category. Model Hawker Hunter Revell 1:32 Model straight from the box, and the other I try not to build.
  32. 2 points
    BiggTim

    Is Jerry Rutmann still here?

    If you mean these: ...they're yours if you PM me. Tim
  33. 2 points
    Garage21

    New to Airplane Models...

    I'm new to this forum and new to model plane building, but I thought I might share some pics of my previous project. I'm just getting ready to start a Model Airways Sopwith Camel. My intent is to replace all of the pot metal parts with scratch built pieces in brass, aluminum and copper. Wish me luck.
  34. 2 points
    In paint Tamiya Matilda Takom M3 Tamiya Challenger
  35. 2 points
    Gorgeous- especially the weathering! There's a fine line between not enough and far too much weathering, and you just nailed it. Where did you get the ACMI pod? AMS (Harold)? I'm going to need one for my Tiger. Cheers, Chuck
  36. 2 points
    wow that is superb work Iain! thanks that you are sharing this with us! jan
  37. 2 points
    mozart

    I hate eBay... Now What

    Well I like eBay, I've just "won" a Silver Wings Boeing Stearman for a very reasonable £78.10 on the site, no complaints here!
  38. 2 points
    John1

    Revell Bf 109 G-10 Erla

    Looking good. I think you made a good decision going with the repaint. Don't worry about the appearance of "2-tone" green. Honestly, some folks aren't convinced that there ever was a 2-tone scheme and write off those pics as just artifacts of shadows and lighting, same as your picture. Keep up the good work!
  39. 2 points
    mark31

    Transporting Aircraft

    A few yaers ago i helpd to move a few planes from the museum to a depot all pics by me will search for more Mark
  40. 2 points
    Pastor John

    Revell Bf 109 G-10 Erla

    Just a dirty cotton bud Mark - sorry to disappoint. Well we are never happy are we! I convinced myself that the only RLM 83 (old name) out of the bottle I had was too light - indeed the Polyscale bottle said 82 'Dark Green' and their 83 was the lighter green instead of the other way around - anyway I had no other 'Old name 83' dark green and there was a big difference between the 83 chip in the Ullmann book and that on the card provided with the Merrick volumes and so believing that what I could see in most photos was darker than what I had done and seeing that the 83 chip in the Ullmann book was darker than the Merrick cards I opted to mix Xtracolour 73 with 10% Xtracolour 71. The photos came out terrible as I was losing the light at the time but most of the model is now more a 'bronze Green' than an Olive Green and fits the Ullman chip and I think the photos better than what I had.......I think haha? O what have I done??????? Please do not think that I am going for a two-tone green machine - it is just the way the light is hitting the middle of the right wing but that being said I have not put too much paint on
  41. 2 points
    John1

    F-51 Korean War Mustang

    Hey Chuck, Great minds think alike. I'm right behind you, just trying to wrap up my Corsair. Ziggyfoo's linked threads should help. Those AIM's decals are the only ones out there (that I've been able to find). They are nice (no idea how well they will go down) but still a bit lacking. For decent HAVR's I plan on buying the sprue from the Tamiya F4U-1D Corsair kit and probably the decals since they have very details stenciling markings for those rockets. Other than those items, you should be good to go (unless you need to add a black box or two in the cockpit, on that I have no idea). The Tamiya D/K kit comes with appropriate drop tanks to use as Napalm bombs (gonna paint mine that garish yellow color that was often used). Only other things you'll need to decide on is whether to putty the wings or not and whether to go with an upgraded overall black cockpit or leave it in the original WW2 spec green. I'm still not sure I fully understand those issue, will be doing more research when I get closer to starting this project. Despite these details, for me the hard part is going to be replicating the "beat to ****" appearance of these aircraft. Faded natural metal and covered in dirt and grime. I'm not sure my finishing skills will be up for the challenge. Here's a good example I posted elsewhere. I'm going to be struggling with that finish. No shiny chrome paintwork on this one, like you see on so many other models. Good luck, post plenty of pics. I'll be taking notes.
  42. 2 points
    Back on decals today - pics later. Took her to my club on Thursday evening (Chippenham, Wilts) and she survived inspection by my peers - so that was encouraging! Iain
  43. 2 points
    mark31

    where east meets west

    Thanks i must be crazy that im going to do this all the rivets are in the model and not pozitive like the rael dael so out comes the putty and fill all those rivets afterwards i will replace them all with pozitive ones long way to go Mark
  44. 2 points
    Lee White

    ICM 1/32 MiG-25 Foxbat?!?

    Sound about right. I had been hacking away at molds for a LSP Foxbat, and now ICM is kitting one.... I guess the old Chestnut about starting a scratch build ending with an IM release is true.
  45. 2 points
    Garage21

    1917 Sopwith Camel by Model Airways

    Preparing to build the wings this weekend.
  46. 2 points
    I found a couple of pics on the 'net of an AIM-9X with 2 blue bands and fuse windows on a parked F-15, but they are super rare. At least it proves that Marcel's memory wasn't failing him, because they do exist, but are generally not typical. Cheers, Chuck
  47. 2 points
  48. 2 points
    Robthepom

    WnW Felixstowe

    hello fellows Slow progress since the last update, but thought i'd post couple picture before I start the internal rigging Very enjoyable when i get time on the bench
  49. 2 points
    I got the wiring done behind the IP, of which there will be a surprising amount showing. There is the IP itself, and then an angled panel ahead of it that follows the contour of the base of the windscreen. The windscreen got finished off with some various sizes of plastic rod for instruments in the back, followed by some yellow wire used for car spark plug wires. Yes, I know, its overscale, but I still think it will look good under the windscreen when done. The forward angled panel I painted raw aluminum for some variation, and used some EZ Line in bundles to busy that area up: The angled aluminum panel went in first, as it dictates where the upper cowl/gunbreach panel sits, so I glued that in, then glued the top/gun breach panel in to that. You can see here I also glued in the forward nose ring, as it mates up to the top gun breach panel: I then glued in the two gun cover panels. Both of the panels fit fairly well with only a bit of force and a tiny bit of CA to take up a very minor gap. Sanding still to come: MORE..................
  50. 2 points
    engines done perfect fit and great fun to glue it together thanks for looking jan
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