Astro32

Came in awfully hot. And did some of the engines keep running afterwards? Sad about the crew needless to say.

You're correct. You'll need to shorten and modify the new kit's wing root fairing to match the -B wing.

Graft the upper fuselage of the -B to Revell's new -D along with the -B's wings, canopy, and vertical fin. I've got both kits and that's how I'll do it. Best solution IMO for a -B if you don't want to wait for the ZM release. And a nice challenge.

Same here. I could probably wing it with basic dimensions and clear photos, but I'm hoping somebody somewhere has a good set of drawings.

Greetings all! Been really busy with a lot of stuff in my life so I haven't been around here too much lately. With the HK Lanc finally out, I had a good look at one in my LHS and I'm impressed! But it figures it's finally out when things slow way down in my business, but that's life. Many of you may already know that I plan to convert one into a Lancastrian, Aries specifically. My father and his maintenance crew serviced her during the Karachi layover on the famous proving flight she made in 1946. I have a few photos Dad took of her at that time. When the time comes that I have one in my grubby paws, I'm debating whether to wait for a conversion kit & markings, or to get out the carving tools and make the nose & tail cones, and other specific bits, myself. With the latter in mind, are there any good accurate plans for the Lancastrian out there? With the former, I'm wondering if I should wait. Given the very little spare time I have nowadays, it's obvious a conversion kit would be the way to go. Then I'll have to figure out how & where to display it! Advice and commiseration would be greatly appreciated.

Actually, plastics of many types did exist back then, and the photos that have been shared here bear that out. Various types of vinyls existed as did polystyrenes, cellophane, Lucite, Plexiglass, etc., as did silicone rubber. As an example I'm restoring a Motor-Dictograph one-way intercom from 1926 that's got all sorts of plastic in it; the microphone switch for example is made with a plastic very similar to polystyrene for the body of it. It reacts to solvent in exactly the same manner. The internal wiring has vinyl & cloth insulation too. Back on topic: many of the instruments didn't have any electrical wiring at the back of them at all; many instruments were pneumatic, or needed an outside atmosphere reference for airspeed; the photo Ringelheim shared shows this, specifically the reddish-colored lines are air lines in all probability, or they could be for oil pressure gauges. Some had Bowden cables going to them, which is what we know commonly as a speedometer cable. Basically a spiral-wound cable inside a housing. These could be for radio or intercom controls, angle or frequency indicators, etc.

Stunning Iain! I could see Trumpy's 24th Spit on floats done up as a 2-seater. A neat what-if idea!

I went to high school with Dan. A great thinker.

The issue I had came with smoke tinted canopy & windscreen, but as I recall, not all the issues of this kit came that way. And good luck with it! Both versions of the -15 from Revell are pretty good; they just need refining in the usual areas.

Actually it's oxygen that is the outgas. Plants take in C02. Anyway, I'm really curious about C02 for airbrushing. Might have to try it some time.

Greetings all! Insanely busy starting a new business, but of course, along the way an opportunity arises that I can't ignore; a job offer in northern Idaho. So after chatting with them on the phone they asked me to email them my resume. So I went to my saved files and it wasn't there, and neither was the template I used to create it, and I can't remember where I got it from! Does anyone have any recommendations for a Linux compatible template? I see a million advertised online and I don't know where to start. Thanks very much in advance for any suggestions or advice. I'd really appreciate it!

In my opinion the LED revolution, with MUCH higher color temperatures being available at relatively low cost, has really helped with getting a successful planted tank going, as have better quality plants being available too. Before the LEDs came along meant really expensive halide & halogen lamps that consumed a lot of power. I tried fluorescent greenhouse tubes back in the day but never had good results. I can't wait to get a bigger tank going now that I'm confident the plants won't die on me!

Awesome! My only aquarium right now is a 1 gallon nano tank on my desk. Three emerald eye rasboras in it and they're very happy, although I plan to move them to a bigger tank once I'm more settled. My last tank was lit by surplus LEDs that had a color temp of 20,000 Kelvin at 3.6 watts. The plants in that one grew so fast I had to keep surgical scissors next to it for a trim every morning!

Vaguely. I do remember looking at the plans for that Albatros in the LHS and it, to a 9 year-old's eyes, was enormous. While doodling around last night online I saw a video of the build process for a Proctor 1/4 scale DVa and I was just about floored by how big it is, pretty much the same reaction I had to the Comet kit 44 years ago! The Proctor kits are expensive, but considering what you get for circa $995 U.S., it's a lot of bang for the buck, and it'll actually fly! But I don't have the space for such a project, never mind the disposable income for one and all the extras needed to build it.

Thanks all for the wonderful replies & memories so far. Looks like I'll be needing to print a Mercedes engine at some point.