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  1. I thought I'd show what the smaller decal sheet looks like. I can use this, but please JET MADS just heh ask Cargotraf do the decals. 04 Some edges are fuzzy, and it would help to cut them straight with a sharp blade. The P95 decal could be reduced to a black circle to look better I think, cutting of the not-in-register yellow ring on the outside. I wonder though, I suppose it might be possibe to touch up the decals here and there, with a tiny, tiny brush to sharpen them in places, after having applied the decals to the model. I think the white moose is a little fuzzy, though I don't yet know what decals would go on my ideally silvery JA-37 Viggen, presumably an early production model. Not to be confused with any AJ-37 jet. Btw, I had a look at the main part for the ejection seat and I am happily surprised how nice it looks. Using thin metal files w. thin self-adhesive sanding paper on them, I can really get to sand various details flat. I think the ejection seat will look really nice in the end, so that's a nice start. I started adding diluted Vallejo putty on the rear 3d printed part, as the stepping pattern is most noticeable there I think. I have to avoid filling in the rivet holes, but I can probably re-create them if there is a hint of their position I think should I make the mistake of adding any putty into them. I plan to add some Vallejo primer paint on various parts, to better get an idea if the surfaces are then adequately smooth. I will try wipe the resin with alcohol, very gently before airbrushing on primer. How the whole thing should come together that I really have not a good idea of yet. Edit: Looking at one of the photos I collected of a Viggen with metal skin (lengthened fuselage, presumably an JA-37 and not an AJ-37)), this one with "39" on its tail, doesn't seem to have any of the larger decals seen in this small decal sheet I show above, so I might not "need" to use these decals for my build I think now. Edit2: The manual shows a painting guide option for this one silvery jet with "39" on the tail, so it looks I am on the right track here. In that case, it looks like none of the decals from the small sheet, will be required. Nice. This have me wondering though, I would guess that the wheel wells on the silvery jet would be metal color, and not "olive drab" as indicated in the build guide.
  2. 01 02 03 Initial overview: • I am happily surprised to see that there are no parts that has been terribly damaged. • The resin parts look smooth enough, I think expected it to look bad. The 3d printed parts looks better than I had hoped for I think. I can work with this. • Some large resin parts, look abit rough in places imo, but presumably fixable, somewhat messy in places with excess resin on the parts. • The two air intakes looks nice enough. Some work will be needed between the main hull and each air intake where they connect at the two places around each air intake. • Clear parts look mostly ok, but will require sanding, one part also has some crap on the outer surface, it looks like the clear parts should be nice and transparent after cleaning them up a little. • I don't have much to complain about here I think. Though I think they should have re-done the small decal sheet, the one that wasn't made by Cartograph. It looks like you can at least cut the decals along the edges to clean up the contour, and hide an instance of two obviously not-in-register smaller round unit decals. Cutting off the yellow outer ring should help. • Looking closely at the 3d printed wheels I thought they looked very nice, much nicer than I had expected, they looked fairly smooth imo. • I am happy to see that the two larger clear parts fit nicely into each other, the front shield and the movable part. • The small bag with the delicate 3d printed thruster part, has two outer ribs knocked off, perhaps my fault, the two parts are still in the bag. • The small bag with less deliate 3d printed thruster part, has a trivially shaped detail that was knocked off. No part seen inside bag, so apparently knocked off before shipping I think. • The small bag with a solid resin plate, is mostly well formed, except a tiny area at the edge, I don't think this matters at all, to be honest, not even for me who like things to look nicely formed. • One of the two 3d printed parts for the wheel well, has some excess resin in them, which will require some clean up. Presumably fixable. The yellowish resin is much smoother than I expected and look mostly smooth I think, with slight traces of 3d printed stepping or imperfections here and there. The printed build guide looks really nice I think. Also 44 pages from front page and onwards including the back page. I haven't looked at every part in detail, but this all looks very well I think, and got me excited to start working with this scale model kit. I am ofc used to improving on the scale model kits I have, but I thought this all did not look bad. I can work with this. I am using BBupload for image upload. Their payment plan is too expensive, or, they don't seem to have a cheaper payment plan, but I will investigate. In the meanwhile, I will number each photo so that, should there come a day BBupload removes or locks the free-upload photos, I can replace them in order as I will of course keep a copy of the uploaded photos myself for safe keeping. I will show nicer photos of the parts as I get around to work with them.
  3. I will be picking up the kit box in an hour. Hopefully all parts will still be intact when I get it. I expect to be spending a fair amount of time looking over the parts and doing my best to smoothen them out in various ways, given the 3d-printed nature of this resin build with obviously uneven surfaces here and there. It was tempting to maybe try use metal foil on the model parts, but I sort of don't think I can make the model smooth enough, but I have yet to look at the parts myself, only having other people's photos on this subject matter. Hopefully I can get most the parts smooth enought to get to airbrush on metallic colors. I wrote "slow build" in the title, as I have some other builds going on as well, but I typically start working on new kits as I get them to evaluate them for myself and just try get things going. Paint scheme for this build (ideally): metalic paint (Vallejo metalic range of paints) Other remarks: I finally fixed my leaking air compressor, and so it turns out I had just a faulty air hose all along for the last few years occasionally using the compressor. The crack in the nice looking braided hose grew larger and larger by time, I couldn't find the source of the leak and it was all mysterious to me. How could the nice looking braided air hose fail me? Obviosuly the rubber part inside started to crack at some point, I had no idea. I found the leak by adding soap bubbles/soapy water around the compressor. Also in other news, I also finally think I figured out how to best airbrush on Vallejo primer paint. I typically dilute the Vallejo primer with thinner (for no good reason), however I always had issue with the paint drying inside my airbrush, presumably because having added thinner. Vallejo 'flow enhancer' acts as a retarder, and I should rely on a little of that instead of thinner I think, Also, in other news, for the first time I fully cleaned my airbrush, including bits of paint stuck in the needle canal, possibly contributing to the airbrush acting up from time to time, with reduced paint flow as if something was blocking the flow somewhere around the nozzle (unsure).
  4. For reference. Apparently this website is shown to have made all those resin wheels + parts appearently shown in a youtube video. The product number is 35005 which isn't lisited on their website, maybe a future product. https://mazhormodels.ru/production Btw, this Topol kit in 1:35 reportedly does not contain any model of the missile itself. I think I read somwhere that the weels can be rotated, but I don't know that for sure, as I don't have this kit. I thought maybe the clear parts looked a bit iffy, when shown by a reviewer on youtube. Good, but not Bandai good was my impression. For firing the missle, apparently the front lid simply falls off, and then the lowered missile housing elevates upwards after that.
  5. Looks like I got my tracking code for order 10853 just a few days ago after now having checked my email.
  6. I have order Order 10853. I was informed of them shipping soon, and so they asked me for my phone number to update the delivery information. I gave them my phone number after a week, so maybe a delay there for my parcel, who knows. I have no shipping info as of yet (unless it happened the last few days), but I expect it to be shipping soon though.
  7. Looks very nice. Might as well have a go at figure painting now I think. Though, no idea if there are resin figures of Swedish pilots.
  8. I thought I would take the opportunity here to just mention, that for the second batch of the Viggen in 1:32, my last email from JETMADS apparently say that they are starting to shipand will start delivering stuff towards August I think it said. So, right around the corner I would think for us that jumped on the second batch. I do not remember the details in the email, but apparently delivery seems to be about a year from purchase, which is totally ok with me. I just hope the parts are moulded ok and are intact.
  9. Fascinating stuff. I nearly want to get this kit myself in 1:32. And looking at this thread, it might make it easier to fix the original kit parts, knowing someone did the tricky stuff already. Just a comment though, I wish though, that kit makers did spend more time looking at photos because they do make whacky wrong detailing from time to time, errors that really shouldn't be there at all. I resorted to making detailed drawings of the Hobby Boss 1:72 Dora railway cannon, as the kit is whacky, whacky wrong, perhaps because there isn't any scale drawings around at all. They obviously did not bother looking too hard at photos, or, they didn't know how to eyeball the details and make sense of it all (but I did, heh took a while). Sadly, milling a new metal barrel is currently out of the question because of the expenses, so I never finsihed the drawings, but should be good for continuing this work later on if I ghose to it finish it all. Instead of buying a costly lathe/milling machine, I guess I could try get others to make the parts for me, which would also include lots of milled metal wheels. Admittedly, re. the barrel, I no longer remember if the kit barrel can be used, or if there was differences after all (I would have to check). That's the nice thing about doing something proper. Once you started good on a project, you know that did your best and can pick it up later and continue.
  10. Hasegawa B-24J Liberator. Admittely 1:72 (you should see my 1:144 Airbus 380, huge when built), I finally got around to get this Hasegawa kit, and I plan to use Bare metal foil on it. Metal foil Resin engines w. PE Masking set (though I might use silver decal sheet instead of paint for canopy work, or metal foil even.) Metal barrels, multipart (I got 3x of those, so some 30 pairs of barrels for other builds like the B-25 and B-17., Buying the Quickboost propeller set was a mistake, as it was shown by a reviewer to be flawed, and incorrect. Grrrr.. (The reviewer points out that the guide shape can be cut shorter to match the real length of the propeller, then each of the three propeller blads can easily be cut shorter to match.) I am warming up to 1:32 scale models and will probably find some (more) later. Models at my place can't be too large, though if I can move to a new and larger house, all would be clear to focus on 1:32 stuff.
  11. I think scratch building can be good fun. I made some fixes to the 1:700 Colombo Express, using my wits, a sharp blade, and an assortment of Evergreen styrene strips and rods: https://i.redd.it/pnvtob8pt1y81.jpg https://i.ibb.co/4PYbDNH/bow4.jpg I used the upper side details as a guide for sake of symmetry: https://i.ibb.co/Jn5g1mw/bow3.jpg
  12. Although I ideally am willing to pay a lot of money for *building* a scale model plastic kit, the hobby tend to be so expensive I have to look at what the costs are. 1) So I try find a cheaper buy when oogling a particular kit, then I buy it immediately, delay the purshcase, or what might happen, a purchase is delayed indefinitely. Often, some kit's are re-released and then I can once again try buy it at some lower cost. I am not paying double the price for a Bandai B-Wing kit! 2) I have learned that, lots of photo etch can be a hassle. I also know that lots of photo etch on say a vehicle can be nice, so it isn't obvious if lots of photo etch is troublesome or not. I think, maybe delicate, photo etched railings on ships is a bummer, as they easily get bent or damaged in my experience. 3) Resin cockpits. A nice idea, but I think they require too much work. I like the resin cockpits less today because of never knowing how much work will go into getting a nice fit in the end. Typically, the build guides are inadequate, and seemingly doesn't guarantee a nice fit anyway. 4) What ususally happens, is that I buy aftermarket stuff, sequentially over time. This means, I never buy a lot of aftermarket stuff in one buy, but over time, I might add stuff, and although this might be costly, the cost is spread out over a few years anyway, so I am ok with it. 5) I often find myself questioning the need for a particular aftermarket item, in cojunction with evaluating a scale model kit at the same time. If I think I "have to" buy lots of aftermarket stuff to correct obvious flaws I tend to not buy the kit, and ofc, never buying the aftermarket stuff. On the flip side, if I think I can fix one obvious issue, with one aftermarket product, then I might find that simple combo agreeable. 6) As I get older, I find that correcting scale model kits, can be a fun and enjoyable experience, but it also can sap the joy out of me. From this, I learned that: If I am bored in my life, I am 100% willing to fiddle with flaws and whatnot. If I am not bored in my life, wip projects tend to get shelved indefinitely, or being greatly delayed.
  13. I can recommend Vallejo's acrylic putty for filling in holes. To avoid the putty shrinking visibly, one just add putty into the cavity and then top the hole, as if making a soft-ice cream with the ice/putty sticking up. Then, when a little dry, one can slice the top off, and then after it dries some more, you can sand it flush. Quick and easy. For holes that you think you might want to drill or cut into, then I like using sprue goo, turning it all into plastic. Drilling into putty isn't a good idea when the drill bit has to go through a mix of putty and plastic, or at least that is what it is like using a softer Vallejo putty. I also like keeping some Tamiya sanding sponges around, cut into smaller pieces to get to sand smaller areas. Also, I would like to champion the use of the tool Trumpeter chisel tools. In addition to being able to cut off stubs and scrape flush plastic from above in tight spaces, you can also grind into plastic by scraping the plastic, which is very useful for quickly thinning plastic. Example: https://www.scalemates.com/albums/img/1/5/2/1227152-28845-67-1440.jpg
  14. If you look at photos you will see a round edge around the opening, a gentle scraping with a blade combined with sanding should round off the edges I think. This here looks better than then 1mm plastic look that often comes with kits w. details.
  15. I would at least thin the air intakes, as it seems like a little effort for a lot of gain in terms of having the plastic looking more realistic that way I think.
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