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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 33 points
    Hi all, here is my another Mustang. EagleCals decals set for Preddy HGW wet transfers & seat belts Barracuda cockpit, battery, wheels, pilot seat, cockpit decals. Colours MRP, Gunze, Alclad II, Eduard PE set - exterior, Look instrument panel.
  2. 33 points

    My precious place

    After I changed the house, I was able to set up my showcases for models. However, I have not yet managed to arrange my work space. I hope I can do that soon. At the moment, the exposure space looks like that. The contents of the showcases will change over time, but at the moment, the whole space is busy. Florin
  3. 32 points

    BIG 1/18 Fw190 *scale photo added*

    Hi All, Here’s the rather huge Hobby Boss 1/18 Fw190. It’s a much maligned kit - not enough detail, over simplistic etc. However It’s actually excellent in lots of ways; it’s pretty cheap for the size of kit, I picked this up for £65 and yes, it is simple and lacking in detail for the size, but it makes up for that in quality of fit and the surface detail is exceptional, so it’s basically a great canvas for detailing and paint. I had fun making it. This thing is huge! Guy Build thread here:
  4. 29 points
    pascal JMW


    Hello just finish to day my second kit from this year P47 D trumpeter , Eduard photo etched for the cockpit , resin wheels Redux , gun's Aber , pitot Aber , pilot Ultracast , kit world decals for the noz art , marking painting with stencils , painting whit tamiya and Gunze acrylic ,wash Tamiya and watercolors pencils best regards Pascal
  5. 27 points

    Boeing F4b4 almost naked

    Hi ! I never expected that this project can take me eight years. I thought about three or four years. Of course I had breakes, holidays etc., but it was about 2500 hours of work. As base I used old Hasegawa kit, but it was only excuse to start this project, the rest is scratchbuilding. My friend, Andrzej Ziober persuaded me to show this model so strongly opened. He is precursor of cutting all structure of fuselage from kit’s moldings. First step And the final Here is the link to WIP My Boeing made the first flight to Madrid on IX model contest organized by IPMS Madrid and asociation model34. It was very interesting event, very good organised with many models on high level. Boeing received three prices, thank you Jury Oro in it’s class, Best aircraft, and Special Price from IPMS Portugal for the best model of the contest. This third is especially beautifull, special thanks for members of IPMS Portugal. So now, I need to think about new project. Thank you All for watching, support and kind words. Regards Tomasz Hajzler
  6. 27 points
    April 8/19 I’ve been a bit distracted lately, but I did get a chance to work on the wings. Like much of the kit parts, they are a bit lumpy, the surface is slightly rough and the rivet detail is shallow and bit wide. Without adding a dark wash, it’s hard to photograph, so you’ll just have to take my word for it. After giving the wings the same “Chuck” treatment I’ve given the rest of the model, the detail is much better and smoother. This will be critical later for a smooth gloss black finish. Also, rivet patterns were added according to references, top and bottom. The bottom of the wings are a lot more complicated. Here are the key things you should do if you follow my lead. 1 The outer join does not exist, so it should be filled and sanded smooth, then a nose-like panel line scribed across it as shown. 2 The other join on the LEX is OK and should stay, but be re-scribed. 3 The gear bay walls should be glued securely to the top of the wing, because that’s all that’s holding on to the very weak landing gear legs. 4 If you aren’t using the inner pylons, do not open the holes as shown in the instructions in Step #19, while the outer pylon holes- which are already open- should be filled if you’re not using them. Rather than just fill them with CA glue, I used styrene rod to create pylon anchor points or plugs with more detail, as found on the real deal. And this is all that’s holding the gear legs in place: Two tiny slots. Yikes! While fairly accurate, they are fairly weak. All the more reason to put them on at the very end of the build, like I usually do anyway. The wing to fuselage join isn’t horrible, but it’s not plug and play either. While a chore to fix, this is more common in modeling than it’s not, so no big deal. Again, a lot of those crooked ghost panel lines should disappear after a coat of paint (fingers crossed). Cheers, Chuck
  7. 25 points
    Rod Bettencourt


    This is my Cyber-hobby/ Dragon Bf-109E-3. I riveted and stressed the skin on this project. I used HGW seat belts, Yaha instrument panel along with some minor scratch building in the cockpit. As per my usual I used Model Master paints. Thanks for looking. Rod
  8. 24 points

    Tamiya 1/32 Mosquito

    It's the Tamiya 1/32 kit with the Eduard Brassin port engine, Xtracolor paints and Aviaeology decals. The aircraft represents one flown by Squadron Leader Vic Cherry, a Texan who flew with the RCAF's 418 Squadron.
  9. 24 points

    A-4M Sky Hawk Trumpeter 1:32

    This time the A-4M Sky Hawk model. Model from Trumpeter scale 1:32, made as always straight from the box. The model is easy to fold and fits on every shelf.
  10. 24 points
    evening Mustang fans Thanks Jay - the wing filler on the surfaces is a little problem I am trying to get my head around right now, and I think I am going to need a little advice from the community! that is a stunning photo Chek - really useful, thank you - one interesting thing is the rivets - on a P51 it seems they are tiny and flush and as can be seen here are acually lots of different tones in themselves - I can't hope toreplicate the tones, but it is a good prompt to go down to tiny sized when it comes to the fuselage.. so, since the last update I have been trying to work out what is going on with a P51 wing skin surface - I know there have been useful threads on the forum but I can't seem to find them so am asking for any advice to be offered right here if you know about this stuff here is what I know - I know filler is applied to certainly the front of the wings, I know on the Oshkosh Grand Champion resto of Lopes Hope (and they are as nuts about detail & accuracy as we are..) the wings were also painted silver all over apart from the gear doors, and the lower skins over the wing fuel tanks this pic shows how they did it.. ..and another.. ..on a couple of upper surface ones I can definately see a few panel lines on the leading edge near the wing root, but curiously on the bottom it looks completely smooth.. I toyed with not skinning the wing and just doing it smooth, but then I saw this pic of Lopes Hope wing being done.. ..all Aircorps Aviation WIP pics only show the leading edge being filled to about a thrid of the chord, so my current working theory is that I will skin the whole wing with aluminium, fill to the line I can see they are doing and then paint the whole wing apart from the panels they also leave NM.. ..now then - this is where I need a spot of help - does that sound right? hopefully someone knows a lot more about this than me and can give me some pointers while I get on with the skinning.. ..speaking of which I had better post some actual work.. ..I stitched together multiple factory drawings to try and get the layout of ribs, stiffners and access panels - printed these to scale and stuck them to the model with pritt-stick paper glue.. ..then I cut along every line with a scalpel so I could draw it out on the wing - after doing so I brush water on the paper & strip it all off.. I started the skinning with the Nav Light panel - taking a template from the model & blending it with drawings to get the shapes and lines of rivets - the holes were dremmelled out with a wide based triangle burr.. ..after rivetting it needs washing in thinners as the awl I use for rivets actually punches out a tiny disc of tape & these can come free and mark the metal as I burnish the part on a hard surface to flatten out all the detailing.. ..the light lens bracket was one of the extra bits of PE I did when I did the 1/24 airscale Hellcat cockpit set.. ..added that panel & moved onto the next - this one has a tricky oval access panel and sets the position of the panels above & below it as it sits below the wing spar - here I am using tamiya tape to hold it in position so I can just fold it back, add the contact cement and fold it into position - the masking tape stops me getting glue everywhere I don't want it.. ..then the other panels were added and the area cleaned up.. ..I always work synchronosly so that I don't get bored repeating an action later on, so the same panels are made at the same time for the other wing... this side has a big lens in the leading edge for a landing light so I haven't got to that yet.. ..in other news, i made castings of my prop blade master, cleaned them up a bit and shot a coat of mr. surfacer.. ..they still need more sorting out, but they do fit the prop hub... ..and I think starts to give that unmistakeable P51 character to the nose.. ..so yes, I do intend to skin the wings and then cover it in filler.... I must be mad.. TTFN Peter
  11. 22 points
    hello I'm working on a pair of Tamiya's superb kits: a Mustang and a Corsair, both being built together as a Black&White project. I've been waiting a biy before sharing those as I wasnt too sure how this would turn into. The Corsait will probably be Ira Kepford's second Corsair which is very well pictured on both sides, the Mustang will be the famous Lou IV both for the fun of tackling the blue/green color issue on my way and because this plane and his famous pilot had their fatal fate not very far away from where I live. The Corsair has been started by using Brassin's set, the pit is superb, the engine too...but i'm making a step back with the latter as it doesnt allow a clean closed display with the provided cowlings. I'm now working on the kit's engine and will keep the Eudard one for a separate display. I've added a HGW harness set that I've been whitening to keep in the topic. I've been working on the Mustang the same way with personal work on he engine: casing texturing, wiring and bits. I also worked the wings and tried to replicated some worn puttying by working layers of surfacer. I used two tines of surfacer to help controlling that. As sanding is feathered, actually filled rivets extend a bit further that the surfacer color. The cockpit is done with some Barracuda add ons and I used some RBrinzan's etched templates for the floor. so now I'm working on the Corsair's kit's engine and the Mustang wheel wells ! bye Fanch
  12. 22 points
    April 14/19 I finally finished the wings, including the control surfaces. As with everything else, every panel line was re-scribed and every rivet re-punched. I bet I’ve redone about 2,000+ rivets by now, but after a gloss black paint finish, it will be well worth it. The wing to fuselage fit is not very good, but by sanding and dry fitting many times, you can get the fit close enough that you don’t need much in the way of filler. Here’s how I did it: 1) Sand and dry fit the wing to the fuselage to get as close a possible to a perfect fit. 2) Apply Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (TETC) to the main portions of the wing to fuselage, then hold the parts tightly together with your hands until the parts are fused. This takes about 5 minutes and don’t worry about getting glue to all portions of the join. 3) Apply a good bead of TETC along the entire wing to fuselage join. This not only adheres the wing, but it makes the plastic swell, helping to close small gaps. Let it dry for 1 hour, then apply another bead, both top and bottom. You want to use lots of glue, but not so much that you make the plastic too mushy. Let it dry for 24 hours. 4) Sand the join smooth with #1000 grit sandpaper, removing any excess glue marks on either side of the seam. Remove the sanding dust. 5) Apply thin masking tape to either side of the seam, leaving a small gap no bigger than what you need to fill. 6) Thin some Tamiya Basic putty in a small jar with Tamiya lacquer thinner. Since the putty smells exactly like the thinner, I bet it’s the very same stuff. With a microbrush, apply the thinned putty along the seam. 7) Using a Q-tip dipped in more Tamiya lacquer thinner, swipe along the seam to push the putty into the gaps and smooth the overall surface. You want the putty to be slightly raised from the join, because it will shrink. 8) Carefully remove the masking tape, which should leave a straight bead of slightly raised putty. Let the putty dry for 24 hours. 9) Sand the join smooth. If you still have small holes and gaps, redo them with more thinned putty. 10) For a final sealing micro-filler coat, paint on a thin bead of Future/Pledge on the seam and let it dry for 24 hours, then sand. If you want to redo some areas, just apply Windex to a Q-tip or rag and remove it. Now some pics. The flaps and ailerons are just dry fitted and I will paint them separately for ease of handling. The fit on the bottom turned out pretty good too. The gear wells were painted before I glued on the wings. Now an often-ignored part of modeling wings. The trailing edges of wings in most kits are too fat and they should be sanded down to thin them. The ailerons in this kit do not fit the wings at all, so you need to sand each hinge down about 25% in order to get them to mesh properly. Based upon most reference pics of parked F-5’s, the rear flaps are usually straight while the ailerons are drooped down, while the front flaps can be straight or drooped down just slightly- which is how I’m going to pose them. As somebody mentioned already, this is starting to look like a jet! Thanks again for your comments and interest in this build. Cheers, Chuck
  13. 22 points
    Finally got a coat of primer on but there were problems, of course. One I gotta’ own myself because the model sat on the bench for a couple weeks and picked up dust. No big deal, I’ll just wipe it down with some IPA and use a paper towel that someone told me is “lint free”. Long story short, It's not and I didn’t realize how much lint was on it until I started priming. So I had to stop and tediously remove all the lint I could fine, which went okay. THEN! My completely clean airbrush started clogging and spit out a few chunks. At this point I’m like “the hell with it” and soldiered on clearing the occasional clog. I knew the airbrush was clean so just to see what would happen I filtered some with an ancient filter funnel I’ve had for 40 years and sure enough the primer has chunks in it. Lesson learned. It could have been a lot worse but now I have to do some sanding to get rid of the problem areas. See those five dots in the filter screen? Those are chunks of primer and they do not pass harmlessly through an airbrush. I guess I’ll be filtering my paint from now on. Enough whining, this is what everyone seems to be waiting for. Comments and critiques are always welcome. Don’t be shy - an honest critique is a catalyst for improvement.
  14. 22 points

    Euro Model Expo 2019 Germany

    Some models: Enjoy! - dutik
  15. 21 points
    afternoon ladies just a quick update on the panel skinning on the P51 - not much to show panel by panel, as the process is pretty much the same but the lower wing is almost complete so time for a few pics.. ..the C model has quite a large outlet for spent cartridges and a chute assembly that can be seen through the hole, so first up is the panel and the chute.. ..I don't really know what the little slots are for - venting maybe.. ..the two were assembled and a hole routed into the wing to make room for it.. ..the panels that define the shape of the gear door opening were done next, with some structure along the edges the doors sit on when closed.. ..and this is where it's at... ..the panel behind the gear opening will be left until all the filling of the leading edge is done as it has domed screws and is left natural metal as seen below and if I add it now these will likely get damaged by the sanding / prepping process.. ..lower wing done otherwise.. ..will do the upper wing next and I am on leave all this week so hope to get lots of it done.. TTFN Peter
  16. 21 points

    1/24 Airfix Typhoon Take 2!

    So my 2nd Typhoon is now complete. Aftermarket resin seat, wheels, cannons and metal rockets were added and finished using Tamiya paints and oils for weathering. Which is my favourite of the 2? Like children I'm sure you arnt supposed to choose but for me as much as i love this one and it was the one i started first the desert scheme (see link below)just has it for me. What next? well definitely not a Typhoon! The HB B24 is calling me from my stash as long as i can come to terms with the turrets! my immediate problem though is what to do with 2x 1/24 Typhoons that won't fit in my display cabinet!! Cheers Matt
  17. 20 points
    Hello gentlemen, first of all I apologize for my poor English. Here are somes pictures of my Ro43 scratch-built in 1/32: For more about this: http://www.master194.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=103658 Have a nice day ! Alain
  18. 20 points

    PCM Macchi 200 in 1/32

    My Macchi 200 built with a little help from my friends and months of patience, most of the parts had to be scratched : For example the engine.
  19. 20 points

    Airfix 1/24 Ju-87 Stuka

    Hello all, Here’s my 45(ish) year old classic Airfix Stuka. Considering it’s age, it’s a pretty decent kit. At the time it must have been seriously cutting edge. The engine is particularly good and apart from lots & lots of flash, not bad detail generally. Build thread here: And her 1/72 grandchild: Thanks for looking in, back to the 1/18 Fw190.. Guy
  20. 20 points
    The time has come. My Boeing is finished after 8 years and about 2500 hours of work. She is worth these efforts. It was most difficult and stresful project in my modeller's career, and the longest one of course. I'd like to thank you all for support, kind words, likes. This is the result. There will be more photos in Ready for inspection gallery soon. Regards Tomasz
  21. 19 points

    "Dark Blue Killer" Tamiya F4U-1D

    Finally completed this model, after starting it back the summer of 2018. My first large scale Tamiya kit and I'm absolutely blown away by how good this was. For those who have never built one of these kits, you have to treat yourself! My subject is "My Nel III", a late war Corsair assigned to VMF-511, flying off the USS Block Island. Decals courtesy of the truly awesome Fundekals set. Here's a full list of all the corrections and updates I incorporated into my build. Not saying it's the complete list of every modification the kit needs or that all of these are even necessary. Some are just to update the kit to the late -1D variant I was building. Just posting in case it helps anyone else. cockpit flare gun deleted entirely Delete upper wing ID light Delete lower wing landing light Add left side armor plate (installed to protect the pilots throttle arm) Add under seat armor plate (installed when the Corsair gradually started performing air to ground missions). Add left side windshield hand grip Add a thin metal bracket on top of seat for seatbelts Fill in cockpit vent in fuselage (this mod was only seen on post-war Corsairs, with maybe a few limited exceptions). Fill in wing fuel tank fill ports (these tanks were deemed an explosion hazard and were gradually eliminated from later production runs). Drill out cockpit frame lightening holes Add rudder pedal adjustment levers Added multiple hydraulic lines on forward cockpit bulkhead Added pins and retaining cables for pilot's back armor plate Drilled out top tubes on pilot's seat mounting frame Removed moulded on seat adjustment lever and replaced with scratchbuilt part. Drilled out lightening holes on footrest support frames. Added multiple electrical lines underneath instrument panel and side consoles Used awesome Barracudacals cockpit decals Used thin acetate between kit instrument panel and decal, instead of thick kit clear part Added hydraulic line to cockpit accumulator Added large heating duct to right side of cockpit Added stubs of pencils sticking out of map case Used pilots oxygen hose, to run from regulator Thinned levers on throttle assembly Drilled out opening of pilot's relief tube and added drain hose Added HGW harness instead of kit PE Added bomb emergency release lever on left side of console Added very basic 2D radio behind cockpit seat Added multiple electrical cables to radio and IFF control boxes on right sideway of cockpit Added rocket control panel (kit part R-44 but not shown in instructions) Added rocket firing handle on upper left side of cockpit Added electrical lines for MG switches on glareshield Sand down the fabric stitching on wings and control surfaces Added Vector cowling set. Fiddely but in my opinion, well worth it if you are leaving the cowl flaps open Added cowl flap actuator rods and linkages Added engine ignition lines, with clips to hold the lines together Added oil drain line on bottom of crankcase Added curved oil lines at top of cylinders (see my comments above) Added larger diameter lines that connect cylinder tops to each other Added electrical and hydraulic lines to main landing gear bays Carved out openings at bottom of main landing gear retraction struts Drill out lightening holes in main landing gear bays Thinned kit exhaust openings Opened lightening holes in sides of flap panels Open up lightening holes in LG oleo scissor links Added Barracuda resin wheels Added ignition "pigtail" leads to HVARs Added Brassin resin 500 lb bomb in lieu of kit 1,000 lb bomb (thanks Jennings!!) Added arming wires to front and rear bomb fuzes Added scratchbuilt wingtip navigation lights Added multiple hydraulic and electrical lines to wing-fold area Added emergency release handles and linkages to interior of canopy frame. Used those awesome Fundekals decals. If anyone's interested, the full build is here:
  22. 19 points
    just to say the cockpit set is finished & will be available by the end of the week ..more here Airfix have May 2019 as the release date for the kit TTFN Peter
  23. 19 points

    Revell 1/32 Ju88

    Managed time to get a bit of paint on the cockpit. cheers Matt
  24. 19 points

    Jedha city

    Before I knew it I had half the cities wall done !! So I'm off to the races... follow along if you wish and see what nuttiness I get up to !! Cheers Vaughn
  25. 18 points
    evening folks Hi Dan - thank you very much, I will have to try some of this - I have just bought 100 sheets so enough for a lot of models, but it seems many metals have different properties and are more or less flexible and polish up to different tones so it is always useful to have a choice of materials Thanks for all your efforts Brian - you really went the extra mile to get them to me and I REALLY appreciate it - problem is, now I need to skin the whole bird and have no excuses Thanks Jay - I had spotted it as a feature, but now it seems what I thought was the empty hole is actually a black rubber cap so another good save! Well, I did think right at the start of doing that, but it would add about another year to the model as I can't help myself going nuts on details so decided not to - that is not to say I might open up a cowl on my planned 1/18 Lancaster.... (tongue firmly in cheek...) anyways - thanks for all your comments and lets get down to it.. I have made up a master prop blade which took tons of research and shaping, but I have no pics and now it is encased in rubber to make a mould so we better move on.. now I have the aluminium to skin the airframe I have been thinking about where to start.. I looked at the wings and thought I could do those before working towards the fuselage and the major outstanding work which is all the cockpit integration & frear canopy area.. ..with that I chose this panel with the formation lights... - this is a useful pic as it shows rivets / panels and areas I will need to cover.. ..as soon as I started looking at it, I realised I had masses of shaping work yet to do on the wings - a bit of a pain given there is a lot of fine detail in the wheel wells to be careful with and which would have to withstand some pretty rough handling ..the aileron housings at the tip were 9mm high instead of 3.2mm which shows how wide the rear face of the wing was - I had to get the household sander out and take loads off - all the way down to the internal foam in places.. I also found the wingtip was the wrong shape so I made a brass core the right shape.. ..this was let into a slit I made in the wing.. I have already removed lots of the rear part of the tip - the original had a big thick and wide trailing edge to the fine point at the aileron edge.. ..once the rear of the wing had been thinned, I decided to replace the aileron housings as they had pretty much been sanded off.. I took some 'L' shaped brass and added it - here the top one has been added, and a sheet is taped to the wing to get the sit of the trailing edge of the 'L' at where it will meet the wing skin.. ..so they look like this... ..finally after 2 solid days of effort, filling, sanding, adding, taking away, I could start on the lights.. Here I have drilled out where the lamps go and have rebated the skin to take coloured perspex blanks that have been cut & polished from thicker sheet.. ..made the lamps by putting soft ali over a hole on a chunk of brass and resting the ball of a tiny ball pein hammer over the hole and whacking it with another hammer - viola, a domed punched disc.. added a bulb from clear stretched sprue held up to a flame so it rolls back on itself into a round.. ..the blanks are then CAd to seal them in (so no dust can get in) and sanded / polished to the wing surface, plus the tips are finally shaped.. ..I also added a thin false panel along the leading edge (which you might just be able to see) so I can align all the wing panels to it and stuck some discs on the formation lamp centres so I can put tape over it and burnish & mark the outline of the skin panel that will go there.. ..then I timed out, so the first skin panel to go down will be in the next post - once that starts I am hoping to really get stuck into it so by May / June I have most of the skinning laid down TTFN Peter
  26. 17 points

    A Tale of two Cobras

    When Academy announced its new AH-1Z Viper last November, I decided to start my MRC AH-1W, hoping to finish it before the arrival of the new kit. I did not quite manage that, as the Academy kit arrived last Thursday and I am mid-way through on the AH-1W. I thought it would be cool to start the Academy kit right away and cover in the same WIP thread the two builds. Box art of the Viper: tonight I built the cockpit. Seats are dry fitted. Unfortunately there are no seat belts, I will have to see what to do about that. The details are pretty good and so far the fit is excellent. The plastic is softer than the Trumpeter plastic so you need to go lightly on the sanding. And this is the cockpit of the AH-1W. I have used Verlinden detail set which was a huge improvement over the kit parts More progress soon. Cheers, David
  27. 17 points
    evening folks ..still plugging away on the wing skinning - the goal is to replicate what you see below on everything behind the mainspar as all forward of it is filled and smooth on the real airframe.. ..some useful shots from aircorps restoration of Lopes Hope.. ..there is litle point showing panel by panel, so here is one panel's story.... I start by making a tape template from household masking tape and burnishing it down to the edges of any adjacent panels with a cocktail stick followed by a pencil mark capturing the face edge of them.. ..this is the forward gun access hatch.. ..then the tape is stuck on a sheet of litho and all the edges scored with one swipe with a scalpel.. the original drawing is scaled to fit this panel and cut out.. ..with the scaled printout stuck to the panel, any rivet detail, or openings are added - rivets one, by one with an awl of different sizes.. any swarf is cleaned up, both surfaces made scrupulously clean and the panel is burnished face side down on hard acrylic sheet with a large metal rod - this gets all the 'pillowing' out where the metal deforms under pressure - afterall all we want is a nice round flat indent representing a flush rivet.. ..the waste is simply broken away by using a hold & fold tool - where I can holding the part, not the waste - a couple of wobbles & it breaks away with a surgical edge.. ..the panel is then positioned and one edge taped down so it folds back on itself but returns to exactly the right position once the contact cement is added to both the panel and the wing.. ..I mask around it to avoid having to clean up every time - the masking must be removed immediately or the glue starts to go off and if the tape is pulled, it pulls big rubbery sheets of adhesive with it.. ..same process repeated on every panel.. ..and now both wings are complete behind the spar - there are some slots added to the wing in front of the gun panels where I will let in a piano hinge.. ..I have been thinking about how to skin the forward part and have decided not to do panel by panel with all the rivets like I did under the wing. I am just going to skin it in two big sheets rolling around the leading edge with zero detail... the idea being that the original was filled smooth and the detailed panels will be almost impossible to do that to so why bother - there are two detailed panels on the leading edge - a panel to get to the gear leg mounts and the landing light so I will leave openings to add those (I stripped the old landing light panel off as I wasn't happy with it).. ..thats all for next time though.. TTFN Peter
  28. 17 points
    The fuselage is now joined - lots of tabs were added along the mating surfaces and on the whole, I've got a pretty good join. Considering the size of the parts, they matched well. As this picture shows, there'll still be quite a bit of filler needed (par for the course with these sorts of kits) but nothing of real concern: IMG_0906 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr The H-model tail turret has also been added to the rear fuselage: IMG_0907 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I've also lined the openings for the undercarriage bays so they are more representative of the real aircraft: IMG_0908 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0909 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0910 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr So now it's out with the filler... Until next time, Tom
  29. 17 points
    Thanks for the kind comments.. Update...Try to answer some questions here..We are just about ready to lay some paint...do have some fasteners ,rivets,and a bit of touch ups yet to finish up..not too much..few days. Just to let you know..no one makes a griffon set for the Tamiya kits..not yet anyway..I hear Radu might be working one up.Now I took the Warbirds nose and re worked it to fit,a lot of premeditated planning and dry fitting...(There is a very slight downward angle on the front engine ...that was a challenge) ,then re cast my own.went through a lot of silicon rubber,mold release and resin as we made a few other parts as well. The hollow noses were "Tacked" into place with some CA..then when I was happy with the position went in and back filled the join with two part epoxy putty,a dark grey putty think it's called "liquid steel" when it sets up you can't even sand it,a very strong connection ,from there we carried on with re establishing rivets,panel lines,fasteners. The final primer is Tamiya fine grey.I decant and thin with lacquer thinner for better coverage..just spraying it from the can will fill up and cover a lot of fine detail that you sweat over,small repairs and touch ups are easier as well. There is a list of changes made to both..shorter ailerons,change to elevators,new hatches in the fuselage,blasting out the rad areas under the wings and blending in larger new ones,getting the spinners and prop blades where I wanted them and casting replacements,etc...to long to list.and that takes time. But very happy to have arrived here. Cheers for now...let's keep it fun..Bill.
  30. 17 points
    been a while, heres the latest. slow progress because of work schedule..
  31. 16 points

    Revell 1/32 Ju88

    Ok I couldn't resist any longer..Im in! Ive wanted to build this kit for a while and there are a bunch of great markings so this group build is the perfect excuse. First impressions are its no Tamiya Mosquito, but then again it is 1/3 the price. You do get lots for your money, the cockpit is lovely and i think it will build up into a very impressive model. i have made a start and built the cockpit which is now ready for paint. i have also decided to modify the kit a little, the kit has no engines but i have decided to graft a resin one onto one wing. its not exactly the right engine but looks sufficiently like a jumo 211 to be good enough when I've finished...I hope! Cheers Matt
  32. 16 points
    A world of spaghettis : Lol I added the gun camera mount and the TR1133 frequency selector. It is predrilled and will get its loom as well
  33. 16 points

    ICM I-16

    Hi all; Here my last built the 1/32 ICM I-6 type 24. l built it from the box except for seatbelts and instrument panels from Eduard. Hope you like it!
  34. 15 points

    Ticket to nowhere - He162 departing

    New little sideline project whilst waiting for paint to dry/things to arrive on the Liberator. Spent the afternoon assembling the railway gondola to check the He162 fitted!
  35. 15 points

    Airfix 1/24 Hawker 'Car Door'Typhoon

    The Car door is the first across the finish line in my dual Typhoon build. It has been a great kit finished in Tamiya and Gunze paints and oils for weathering. A take away for future projects is to dry fit every component before paint as this will make final assembly a little less fraught!! Cheers Matt
  36. 15 points

    A Tale of two Cobras

    Time for an update on the Zulu. After giving a coat of primer, it was time to add the photoetch. I am not a big fan of phototech because I am usually bad at it, but here the pe is a pleasure to work with, it is very thin and conforms well and all the places where the pe goes is recessed so you get a very nice flush finish without much effort. I like it a lot. See for yourself. Cheers, David
  37. 15 points
    Well I have retired the vac tool for the lower belly/gun pack and cockpit floor details, replacing them with resin. I also have included resin spinners so that if you only have the Ju 88 A-1 kit you no longer need to worry about using the vac form spinners I used to supply. Also included now is new front section - so no filling in of the kits windows as well as new upper nose decking with as increase of 0.2mm to represent the armour. New FuG rack is included as well as FuG 220 and 218 box and Master FuG 220 and 218 dipole/receiver sets plus 6x MG 151 barrels. The Ju 88 G-1 conversion has also been updated in the same way. Obviously the considerable extra resin as well as the Master products changes the price tag and I have not yet had the time to calculate that with the new moulds only being ready this morning and Master products arriving yesterday. The updated parts will also be available to customers having earlier examples of the kit. Thanks, John
  38. 15 points
    So: "Sergey aka Suomi says - finish! The prototype is the Messerschmitt-109, my favorite! Option: Suomen Ilmavoimat, 3 / HLeLv24, 06/30/1944, Lappeenranta. Pilot: MSgt Nils Katajainen, total victories 35.5, Messerschmitts - 18, on this machine - 7 (06/29/44 - Il-2; 06/30/44 - Pe-2; 07/01/04 - Air Cobra; 03/07/04 - 2xYak -9, 2хИл-2), Mannegreim 2nd Class Cross - 12/21/1944. About aftermarket in this model: Aires cockpit, main gear - RB, used about 20% of BigEd on 109G-6 from Eduard, exaust pipes - REXX (pilot version), the others - out of the box"(c).
  39. 15 points

    Tamiya F-16C conversion to F-16A

    So I was gonna do the future dip but I thought I would try Tamiya's polishes first. It worked really well, good enough where I don't wan't to go through the hassle of the future dip. I'm being a bit lazy but I'm so close to the end I can taste it. Here it is with the frames touched up. I also completed a few more tasks including the exhaust ring. I first painted a heavy coat of Alclad Aluminum before adding a light coat of Alclad gold titanium. I was trying to get that light goldish shade these have. I used 12,000 grit sanding sheet to lightly remove the gold tint for that worn look. Lastly I painted Mr Color clear blue. I ended up sanding the blue a bit since I thought it looked a little to heavy. It's a bit bright and may need to be toned down a bit, I can't make up my mind on that one. My camera, or most likely the lens, washes out the photos. It's difficult to capture the detail that I can see in person. Here is a few photos of things coming together... Thanks for stopping by fellas, almost done! Bryan
  40. 15 points
    Thanks Guys! I have been asked how I use CA glue as a filler in the other forum, especially when panel lines and rivet detail is enhanced or restored. Although I’ve written tutorials on this subject before, I can’t find them, so here’s a new updated one that I will share here as well. Using CA Glue as a Filler I have been using Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue as a filler for many years and more recently, about 90% of the time over traditional modeling putties. I use CA glue on every single join of my models, to make sure there are no gaps to be found later. While putty still has its place, CA glue has the following advantages over putty: 1) Drying time is quick to immediate, especially if you use an accelerator. 2) Since it dries harder, it sands finer- but sanding must be done within an hour or two of drying. Left to cure overnight, it will become much harder than the plastic, making sanding difficult. 3) As a glue, it strengthens joins while it fills them. 4) Panel lines can be created or re-scribed over CA glue with a smooth finish, which you can't do with putty. Again, this should be done within a short time after drying. 5) CA glue doesn’t shrink as it dries, so what you see is what you get after drying. 6) Tell tale flaws can be detected with strong lighting, allowing immediate repair. CA Glue Properties. The first point I stole from the internet, which explains it better than I could. 1) CA glue can only bond with a surface when there is moisture present. This means if the CA glue is placed on a perfectly dry surface, it will not stick to the surface or form a bond. In contrast, when any amount of moisture is present, the molecules in the glue will react with the moisture to form tight chains in between the two surfaces in contact. This reaction generates heat and occurs instantly, which differs from traditional glue bonding that occurs by evaporation of the base fluid. 2) Due to the above, thinner glues dry much faster than thicker glues, because more of the surface area to volume of glue is exposed to moisture. For the same reason, glue in moist air dries quicker than dry air. 3) Over time, thin CA glues get thicker, which is why I only buy thin glues and have a variety of new and older glues on hand resulting in a variety of viscosities. 4) Thin and thick CA glues can be mixed, to create a custom viscosity that you might need for a particular application. 5) CA glues don’t shrink very much, if at all, so only use what you need. CA Glue Tools of the Trade. Although mostly obvious, this is what you need: 1) The right brand and viscosity of CA glue. I’ve found that not all CA glue works the same and some are better than others. I’m using Mercury M5 glue right now, because I know how it works and what to expect. To get the right viscosity, just mix some thin and thicker glues together until you get what you need. For most applications, I use thin glue only with no mixing. 2) CA glue accelerator. You often want the glue to dry immediately, so the application of an accelerator will do that, but again, some are better than others. I used to use an accelerator that worked very quickly, but it also made the glue shrink and shrivel leaving bubble marks and it attacked paint. The one I use now is much milder to use and does not harm paint if it is removed quickly. 3) CA glue remover, or “Debonder”. Sometimes the glue doesn’t go where you want it and needs to be removed without sanding. Great Planes Debonder is the very best there is and it won’t harm the plastic like some other debonders. 4) Applicator Microbrush. Depending on the application and viscosity of the glue, I use either a very small microbrush (usually white), or the tip of the microbrush with the brush removed. Bought in bulk, these brushes cost only pennies apiece and I use and throw away dozens of them on every model. 5) Glue container, that is plastic and relatively deep. Quite by accident I discovered that the cap to a small spray bottle can hold CA glue in a liquid form up to 24 hours. Glue left on an open flat surface will dry quickly because it is exposed to air moisture, but for some reason glue in this type of container dries very slowly and the glue remains in a liquid form for several hours of glue application. 6) Sandpaper, both #400 and #1000 Tamiya equivalent grits. I say “Tamiya equivalent” grit, because one brand of #400 sandpaper will often be quite different than another brand of #400 sandpaper, which might be too coarse. Other than the glue accelerator (I’ll find the brand name later), here’s a pic of what I currently use: The Filling Procedure To fill a seam or join like I’ve done above, the first thing to do is to use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (TETC) to join the parts together, then ooze a good layer of this cement into the join to swell the plastic and close the gap. The goal here is to get good adhesion and natural filling without the use of CA glue. This doesn’t have to be neat along the join at all, but avoid getting any cement in fine detail. Let this dry for a minimum of 24 hours, or 48 hours if you used a lot of glue. You want it dry and as hard a possible for sanding. When the TETC has dried properly, sand the join smooth using #400 sandpaper until it is flush, then remove the sanding dust with whatever works the best for you. I use compressed air, a clean microbrush and sometimes solvent on a rag to get all the dust out of the join. Dipping a microbrush into the CA glue container (not the bottle) and holding the surface horizontal so that the glue won’t drip, apply a thin bead of glue along the seam. The goal is to totally fill the seam, plus about 10%, to get the top of the glue slightly higher than the surface of the plastic. Let this dry for a few minutes, then apply glue accelerator with another microbrush along the seam next to the glue itself, but not directly on it. Tip the parts allowing the accelerator to contact the CA glue and wait about a minute. The glue will begin to harden on the surface. When this has happened, apply more accelerator to the glue itself, which should harden completely within seconds. Wipe off all accelerator with a dry rag. Note: Thick CA glues take longer for the accelerator to dry them and they may be dry on the surface, but not internally. Let thick glues dry much longer before sanding. Again using #400 sandpaper, sand down the seam so that it’s flush. Ideally, you have CA glue within the seam and not on the plastic on either side. Using a strong light, check the seam for shiny spots. These spots are low areas or bubbles where the glue has not been sanded yet. Depending on the application, either sand down further or using a microbrush tip (without brush), apply a tiny drop of glue to these areas, add accelerator, then sand again. When you are happy that the seam has been filled properly, use #1000 grit sandpaper and smooth the entire seam and surrounding areas to create a super smooth surface. This takes a lot of time and a lot of sandpaper to get it right. You can now apply or restore panel lines with a scriber and do the same thing for rivets with a needle in a pin vice. Do it within an hour of applying the CA glue, so that it’s not too hard. The glue is slightly harder than the plastic, so take care to dig a little bit more within the glue than the plastic to ensure a uniform panel line or rivet. If you screw up- and you will- apply another drop or two of CA glue and do it all over again. I have scribed and refilled the same panel line multiple times before I got it right and after some paint, you can’t see any flaws. HTH, Chuck
  41. 14 points
    1/32 Zoukei-Mura EagleCals decals set for Preddy HGW wet transfers & seat belts Barracuda cockpit decals & wheels Colours MRP, Gunze, Alclad II, Eduard Look instrument panel.
  42. 14 points
    morning folks Hi Jay - the wheels & tyres are 3D modelled already, just tweaking the design with some help as the treads and the flat spot are a bit too complex for my limited knowledge ..thanks KUROK - the Awl set I have has about 25 sizes from a pinprick to about 1.5mm in diameter - the slot for the screw is then added with a scalpel blade point ground down to a tiny flat blade.. ..I set myself a target of getting the wings skinned before I go back to work tomorrow, and it is pretty much done.. ..I went by this factory photo of where the filler was used on the leading edge (posted under fair use) and as can be seen, it does not extend to the wingtip so that panel was left detailed.. ..a tape template for the main panel.. ..and after annealing the leading edge and some fine fettling to fit all the rear panels the skin is added... ..a piano hinge was added to the forward gun door by scoring lines on a sheet of litho and bending it double so the edge is upright - this was let into a slot in the wing.. ..the gear leg mount access panel & gun ports.. ..and the basis of the wings is done.. ..getting there... TTFN Peter
  43. 14 points
    April 17/19 A quick public service announcement. Like most of you guys, I use a lot of microbrushes of every description and go through maybe a hundred per model. Purchased from my local hobby shop, they can cost $0.20/each or more. I've bought them in bulk from the usual modeling internet sites for about half of that, but that was when I was looking for "Modeling or Hobby Microbrushes". I discovered by accident a few years ago that if I looked for "Makeup or Dental Microbrushes", I found the very same thing- and more selection- for only $0.02/each! Here's my latest order from ebay (or Amazon). 4 X 400 = 1,600 microbrushes for $31.50, delivered free to my door from China. At this price, I don't have to worry about keeping any of them clean. Cheers, Chuck
  44. 14 points

    WNW airco DH9

    Irish free state air arm, Fermoy 1923.
  45. 14 points
    So we've finally got to putting some paint down! Mr metal primer for the pe bits followed by gloss black for the decal side and Matt black for the front side. Decal applied and gunze clear coat on top. Front panel with Mr paint dull interior, bronze interior and standard interior. Floor given a coat of Mr paint white aluminium followed by Matt clear. AK scratch/worn effects then zinc primer and dull green /standard interior green. Tooth pick and stiff brush with water. Panel test fit Back plate is not attached. Just to see the effect. Dark brown wash to add some depth/grime. Pretty happy with the overall effect. Added more paintwork to the panel and need to add more details to console etc.
  46. 14 points

    SH-3 Sea King Hasegawa 1:48

    A relatively old model, but friendly and quite easy to build. SH-3 Sea King Hasegawa 1:48, because none of the painting proposals from the set did not please me, I chose the version that might come as a surprise for you. I hope that you will like it.
  47. 14 points
    Ok, as promised here is where I am at with the weathering.....................not remotely done, but the wash (brown Tamiya panel line accent) and dust (AKI dust effects) have been added as well as some very minor chipping (Prisma color pencil) to only certain parts, as I figured this paint job while not professionally applied would not have been super old (but daily combat would take a toll quickly) therefor likely would have been dirty but not too scratched up yet. Props and rudders are only stuck on for appearance sake at this point as I just wanted to see what I had so far. I will leave all this off again once I pick up on further weathering. Overall coated with a semi-gloss clear, then the tops/horizontal parts that were exposed to direct sunlight were hit with some MRP flat/matt for that dusty, faded flat look. I also got the dust filters and rear/belly intake scoops unmasked as well: All for now, as I need to put the finishing touches on a F-4 Phantom decal review for AOA and should be back on the big bird tonight or tomorrow. Cheers!
  48. 14 points
    Got some work done on the interior of my Lanc. As I am planning on using the half the clear side of the fuselage I needed to cover the obvious port side wing opening. I did this by cutting and shaping 1 mm plastic card and then made the rib structure out of .4 & .3mm plastic strip. All up the job took about 3 hours. 1. Port side fuselage with wing connection visible. 2. Plaster card cut to roughly the same size of area that needed to be filled to cover the wing root. 3. I ended up cutting the plastic card into 3 parts for easier fitting. I then used super glue to fill some gaps. 4. Interior ribs added. 5. interior floor dry fitted and front of fuselage also dry fitted. 6.Gave the interior a quick paint to see how it looks. Happy how it turned out. That's all for now and thanks for looking.
  49. 14 points
    Now wet transfers.
  50. 14 points
    I got all the markings on, albeit not on the first try. The Hakenkreuz ended up being white with a black outline at first, so had to completely re-shoot that. As you will see, I also have to re-shoot the crossed swords in the victory crest on the starboard side tail, as the swords were exceptionally small, and proved to be at the cutting/size limits of the Silhouette cutter. Not perfect, but not too shabby. Needs some touch-ups, but the basic paint is done: Port side tail is good: Starboard side needs to have the swords re-shot, but otherwise OK: Balkenkreuz on the underside also turned out very well, with only a very minor touch-up of the black on the port wing: Next up, Ill re-spray the white on the starboard side swords, then will get started on the washes and weathering. YAY! Cheers til next time,
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