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Thanks guys for all kind words! I really appreciate it engines finished. I have added some wires and applied coats of Mr. Paint Semigloss and Semimatt at the end fit was great and it was pure fun to put it together fuselage in progress. well , it's going together so easily thanks for looking jan

Hi all, another Mustang . 1/32 Tamiya kit HGW set belts & wet transfers Eduard Look dashboard Barracuda wheels & cockpit decals All colours MRP All painting mask homemade

Italeri 1/32 F-104A Starfighter. Between 1958 - 1960 NAVY loaned 3 F-104A Starfighters from USAF to conduct tests of new Sidewinder missiles. Airplanes were based at NAWS China Lake - California. The kit was easy to build but a pain to get ready for natural metal finish I intended to make. Both fuselage halves had panel lines of different width and depth, surface was uneven and lot of sanding and polishing was required. The fuselage was initially sprayed with MR Surfacer 500 from a can and then sanded and polished followed by a layer of gloss white GX1. I used MRP metallic colors for NMF finish. Mostly Silver 128 and White Aluminium tinted with MRP White and MRP transparent paints. Polished by the polishing stick. Rivets were added after the paint job. I left the surface without a top clear coat as it would ruin the sheen of metallic paints. Aires - cockpit and wheel wells Eduard - exhausts, Sidewinders and wheels Model Master - pitot tube Paints - MRP "MR Paint"

Hi all Pipes on the heads of the cylinders. Regular formatting of the 18 pipes with an improvised folding machine. Set up the wire. Push the counter-piece. And here are 18 regular pipes Setting up the cylinders. The admission pipes are too short. I want to leave the engine hoods open and the pipes are too short which bothers me. I've extended the intake pipes. For the masking of pipes, I use Teflon, used in sanitary to waterproof the fittings . There you go. I foresee the same problem with the exhaust pipes. See you soon, Sweety (Google Translate)

I know this has been done (Great build on this site) . But I needed My Own. Kit decals ,which I thought were great. Barracuda Resin on Small wing bump section and on Spinner/Props (Prop Alignment jig). HGW Seatbelts, Uschi Line for antenna. Kit decals were used for all the markings especially the spinner and Tulips as they settled perfect and were better than my trying to paint them. I cut all the clear from the Insignia and used a Scrap set of markings on the tail. I did add some brake lines but tough to see in my photos.Lightly weathered as this is a 300 plane Ace mount. Thanks for Looking and comments are always welcome Regards Bill D

The Avro 504K is a beautiful aeroplane, that one that most of all surprises me in having been ignored to date. There's at least a couple in museums in Australia, one in the AWM and another in Point Cooke that could be measured up by the WnWs team.

Chinese type 10 to be released this year: www.icm.com.ua/news

I have been playing around with the plotter some more today. The serial number was no game for the plotter. But, to my surprise, neither was this; "Moeders Angst". "Mother's Fear". And how right she was! MK632 crash-landed twice after it was re-serialled to, what else, H-13 . This is as delicate as it gets, so I am very happy with my plotter.

Hello That's too long since the last update ! So where is how both models and their figures look like so far: "STEP HE" !! And that pic: inspired this: still a lot of work, for sure a challenging exercise ! bye Fanch

Tamiya Kit 1/32 Barracuda wheels HGW wet transfers & seat belts Painting mask homemade All colours MRP

This is 1/32 Hasegawa Messerschmitt Bf 109 G14-AS with the markings of "Kristin" Yellow 1 from 9./JG300 in December 1944. I have used: MDC Cockpit set Masterdetails horizontal tails. Quickboost exhausts Barracudacast Propeller and spinner Barracudacast main wheels Eagle Cals decals EC#81 Gunze Sangyo acrylic paints. Happy modelling

I added the last few bits I could find in the crate on to the model, calling it done,(canopy not glued down so I can show the office) Remember, I strive for mediocrity Some pics: and it's older brother D as a size comparison Thanks to all who checked in on me, it was a great fun build.

I'm not really a big fan of WW1 aircraft but I'm surprised that the BE2C hasn't been done because as a teenager we had a TV series about the RFC and quite realsitic it was too called 'Wings' and the BE2C was quite a big player in the series and I think I'm right in saying that this series awakened a lot of people to the RFC and WW1. Graham

131D set for release this year: www.icm.com.ua/news

Basic cockpit painting now complete and ready for decals and HGW belts, aftermarket belts are the only option with this kit as no effort is made whatsoever from ZM in supplying anything representing belts in the basic kit Cockpit side panels painted and ready for decals, initially Inwas going to use Tamiya masking tape but finally decided on Uschi van der Rosten leather decals so a pre shade of white was added in readiness. Really need to get the cockpit finished and closed up to move on now but getting there with Regards.Andy

Please enter me into the raffle as a donor and a gift receiver. I am offering a Dewotine D.520 C.1 by Azur. 'dis is fun or what. RIck

The 51 wheel well looks amazing, and fills a big (literal) gap on the Airfix kit. I'm well up for anything that appears for the Spitfire too. Those kits are crying out for any aftermarket. As far as the wing dihedral is concerned, and this affects the Spit too, just add what the real aircraft had...a wing spar. I use Evergreen box tube and make spars for my kits. Works every time and appears to give the kit more strength too. Steve

They may be issued in the future. Just because we do not have them right now it does not mean that they are ignored. Why are some subjects "covered to death" while othjer subjects are "ignored"? The entire model industry is powered by the enthusiasm of the people involved in the manufacturing. But you can't take enthusiasm to the bank. You need cold hard cash. And the only way to make cash is to have some "cash cows" in your inventory. So, for every "obscure" kit you will have to have the "German" and the "popular". Just wait until the "cash cow" generates the necesary cash and then these kits will be made. And no, the "spendthrift benefactor" (Sir Peter, :-) etc) is not the "cash cow". They may sponsor the first kit, then the following kits have to be made from profit. Radu

I built two Hobbyboss Mk.V's and they are really well engineered and detailed kits, obviously not in Tamiya's league but I enjoyed building them both. At the same time I built the Revell Mk. II, which with bit of help from Barracuda (also used on the Hobbyboss kits) was also an enjoyable build, sitting next to my other Spitfires (Hasgawa and Revell) the Hobbyboss kits do not look out of place. Cheers Dennis

Shouldn't be too far from Tamiya, now I have done the hard stuff on converting their 1/32 Mk IX into a Vc... You're welcome

That would be awesome! The surface detail is actually not too bad, but the details are horrid.

Almost forgot to again mention the need to replace the old style Oxygen Supply Regulator Ryan

Getting to the wire now so I am hoping to get some decent progress in during the next week or so. I have shifted attention to the upper surface applied a coat of the gull gray. This is lightly sprayed to keep the rivet and panel line details while building up colour. There is still good modulation and the base colour is giving it a worn look. My only concern is with the gray that I am using as it is look quite warm. I used the Model master match for gull gray, however when I look at photos, of the phantom is looking a lot cooler in tone. Not sure if this is a photo issue or a repaint of old aircraft. I am hoping I can get some feedback on what others thought was a good match for this colour. I am contemplating an overspray of Tamiya Sky gray lighten with white. Please add your 2 cents. Gord

continuing with the build, which is going pretty easy now. I hung the pylons and ordnance and set it up on it's gear. It's a good thing it has metal core undercarriage because it's quite heavy now. I also had to do a bit of paint touch up. First oops I noticed, I had masked off the tail pipes but forgot to paint the rear of the fuselage. Tamiya tape to the rescue and fixed. Thanks for looking

Thank you, gentlemen, for your kind words. I'm pleased so far with the way this model is turning out. Alain, yes it is a nice conversion. It's also the first one I've ever done, too. Paul Fisher's conversion kits are certainly well engineered from what I've seen on this forum, and now from my own experience. I do hope he gets back up and running again. More progress, but it's been a trial. I now have the markings on. Firstly, I glossed the dayglo areas with airbrushed Tamiya enamel gloss. Next, I painted on the 3 prominent stripes that point to the hand and foot holds on the left side of the plane. Somehow or other here, I got into trouble as a cloth with thinner white paint contacted the right side of the cockpit and adjacent engine nacelle. I let it dry and then attempted to remove the marks with 5000 grit polishing sticks which got a lot of it off, but a repaint was needed. Half an hour to mask, then 10 seconds to paint with the Tamiya rattle can . Don't you hate that??? Here's a couple of pictures showing what it now looks like. The plane has now had a second coat of varnish, but I haven't yet taken any pictures as I'm going to let it dry thoroughly before going any further. And the second gloss coat gave me heaps of grief too. I realize now that I should have used acrylic gloss on the first coat but I didn't have any, hence the enamel gloss coat before I put the markings on. Since you can put enamel over acrylic, but not acrylic over enamel, I was committed to using enamel for the second coat. But I wasn't sure I had enough to do the entire plane, so I went out on Saturday while I was shopping and dropped in on a hobby store not too far away. They only had Revell enamel gloss, so I bought 2 tins of this. That night I airbrushed this on the underside, but no way could I get it even. On each part of the model that the airbrush had not been able to hit the model square on, the surface cloudy and dull. Had another go on Sunday thinning it differently and using different a pressure setting with even worse results. So today I went out to another shop (there's not many in Perth and only 2 that I know of on the north side of town where I live) and while they had plenty of Tamiya enamel paint, no gloss was in stock. I finished up with Humbrol which I haven't used in decades and had another go this afternoon. Success . So presently, the model is sitting on my bench drying which you wouldn't think would take long in the 40 degree C weather we're having now, but I've found clear gloss takes a while to harden which is what I'll let it do before I go any further. All this because I wanted to avoid rattle can clear varnish.. Next up will be the undercarriage, but I need to paint the wheel bays first. Then on to the canopy which has a bit of work needed before adding the last small parts and it will be done. I sometimes think that modelling is a little bit like writing decent computer code. The first 90% will get you a good idea of how the final product will look, and the second 90% is what really makes it. Cheers, Michael

And one more from Lukgraph stand: So that's it. Enjoy. Juraj

The base-coat is on. I used paper masks, cut from a blown up pattern I found online: Some touching-up to do left and right, but it's turned out okay. I used Hataka Orange line lacquer paint for the first time. The handle very very well and have good coverage. The landing gear has been painted too, and is dryinf after a gloss-coat. Next is wheatering and attachinf the gear. BTW, I have also used MR Paint for the first time. Wow...just wow... I will order all I need from their line. It's just awesome stuff. Hataka is very good as well, just not AS good as MR Paint.

A lot has been written about Revell's 1/32 Spitfire IX, and no review can help itself and HAS to compare it to Tamiya's, a four times more expensive kit. Well I do love Tamiya's kits, but can't pass up on this cheap Spit. Hence, my first build on LSP. I switched to 1/32 a while ago because my eyes need bigger things It will be finished as one of these two, haven't decided yet but lean toward the bottom one with the larger roundels: Starting with the cockpit, I added a few tidbits to make it look a tad more interesting (and expensive )

How do I have been hard at my P51 and a few years ago a good family friend who I grew up with in Singapore when my father was in Transport Command with her husband had asked me if I would make a model for him. Of all the aircraft he had flown, he had all but a Transmeridian Air Cargo CL44 Freighter. My dad and he both flew them after RAF service in a divergent list of airliners, exec jets & freighters. At the time I researched it and found Welsh Models make a 1/144 kit and 26 decals did the markings so I got hold of them both.. ..then it sat in a cupboard until this weekend - as I am waiting for masks for my P51 I was at a loose end, ans as it was due to be a Christmas present, I thought why not - surely it can't take long to make a simple desktop model.. ..here's the box.. ..and one-piece resin wings & a bag of other goodeies with the decals.. ..the fuselage is vacformed, so this was marked & cut out.. ..assembled, filled and with a mounting spigot being added for the wings.. ..it needed a fair bit of priming & sorting - partly due to my cavalier assembly, and partly due to raised doors and trench panel lines.. - the hinge blisters were also added.. ..I later added brass tubes for the exhaust pipes to the wings... ..main assembly complete.. it needed LOTS of filler to blend the flying & control surfaces.. ..a final prime of mr surfacer.. ..a coat of alclad chrome.. ..masking for the darker metal areas of the engine nacelles.. ..the nose tip was masked & painted, and the tips of the nacelles dipped in a lid of paint.. ..props painted and decal strips added for de-icers.. ..that was Saturday, this morning I added the decals and glosscoated the fuselage... ..and thats it - a model in a weekend and I also get to surprise some folks very close to me TTFN Peter

my last built : voila voila !

... and someone will be guaranteed to say "that is precisely what I did not want!" :-) Radu

Yes. They are fantastic. They airbrush beautifully, dry quickly, very durable, and are resistant to masking pull up.

Nope, the DC 3 is the only one iv'e seen built since its release. Its an absolute beauty and when i can afford one I will look to grab it. Anyone got one they don't want?

I agree, adding the wing spar makes all the difference. I had to scratch build one, but now Modelmonkey's wheel well for the Mustang corrects both the empty well and the dihedral. Not sure of the structure of the Spitfire's wing, and how that would be designed. The only other modification that has to made is to remove a millimetre or so from the inside of the wingroot on the wing top parts so that it takes up the new angle (5 degrees in the case of the Mustang). It took a bit of dry-fitting and experimentation but it wasn't difficult, just some extra time added to the build. I was worried how flexing the large wing bottom part up to the correct angle might affect the fit at the rear toward the radiator intake, but there was no issue there. Watch the angle of the landing gear legs too! Some clamping and giving the glue time to cure and it was done. I am not an experienced modeller, never scratch-built anything before this, just stubborn and love the Mustang. The modification to the wing dihedral is not difficult. These ModelMonkey parts will save hours and hours, and lots of sweat, and are sharply detailed. The pre-cut holes in the ribs will allow plenty of room for piping and wiring, and the set includes the heavy pipes running to the radiators in the square openings in the well roof, and lots of other mechanical/hydraulic pokery-jiggery. I will use them on my second 1/24 Airfix Mustang...and maybe a third. Richard

I guess they will release one soon after I started my conversion from the Revell Mk.II

On the upper port wing there are 2 hatches just outboard of the wing root. This decal is placed over the round hatch with Pressluft fur MK toward the front. Just in case, the Sauerstoff decal goes on the modeler scribed hatch under the stbd. wing. HTH, D.B.

Wonderful news regards the detail sets for the Airfix 1/24 Spitfire! A huge thank you from me, and I am sure, a whole lot of modellers who have been calling for help in these areas of the kit. I have two kits and both have been put on to 2020 builds now - looking forward eagerly to see what you can do with these. PR

Having recently sold my Trumpy A-6 to a friend who was starting an A-6 project in earnest, I figured these might make a good raffle gift. Ill buy the individual AOA set I need again when I do get another A-6 and decide which scheme I'm going with. Ill put up for the raffle a full set of X4 individual AOA A-6A/A-6B/A-6E decals including a full set of AOA stencils. This is one raffle prize all together, AOA decal sets 32-026, 32-027, 32-028 and 32-029. I can honestly say these decals are some of the finest on the market: Merry pre-Christmas to all!

Hi Thank You all for kind comments. We just started "Baby" production. I will soon launch an online store (1-2 weeks). Price per kit will be 99€. Thanks Lukas

I've got a feeling I've seen this one already... (Plastic Winter, Bratislava, last Saturday) Excellent! Congratulations! Juraj

Here are my decal and profiles - one of which you showed earlier - decal sheet 48D022

Hello everyone, For version 1A. The magnetos of the Eduard Kit will be replaced by the Bendix magnetos of the Tamiya Kit. As well as the distribution ring. Creation of notches to adapt the Bendix distribution ring of the Tamiya Kit Painting of the engine block slightly weathered for the moment See you soon, Sweety (Google Translate)

@mozart You weren't exaggerating, what a wonderful addition the plotter is to this hobby, opening up new areas and being creative in new way. Plus it saves money for decals and masks normally purchased (or so I keep telling myself ). I can't describe the joy it gave lifting the final mask from the roundels, seeing the total picture and the rivets as if it was bare plastic. This comes out of the Silhouette plotter: First, I sprayed the white disk with Tamiya white (the only flat white I have at hand today): Next I airbrushed the red and then the blue segment after replacing the segment-mask over the red. This one had a slight mis-alignment near the leading-edge: Next I re-sprayed the center dot with Tamiya white, and then masked the middle dot for the final orange circle: To my horror there was a residue left behind by the masking foil! The foil stuck quite firmly too, but the Hataka Medium Sea Gray didn't budge. I always felt Mr. Surfacer was a very good primer, and today it proved itself again. The Hataka paint is a trooper too in this respect, nothing lifted. Normally I would remove the residue with ethanol, but I already found out Hataka paint dissolves in that. Luckiliy it turned out the glue residue could be removed with a damp cotton-swab, so it must be water-solluable. Residue gone and alignment repaired: It was a tedious job but it gave me a lot of fun and fulfillment when it turned out like it did. The amount of detail preserved by airbrushing them instead of using decals is significant and no worries about conforming to bulges etc. I think it will show once I start weathering. I used these paints below. I think the red and blue are spot-on for period-roundels. The orange might be a tad too light, but overall it works for me. For the upper wing and fuselage roundels I chose a different appraoch. First I sprayed the orange dot's position in white. I did this in the approximate position for the wing, and in the precise postion on the fuselage sides, only bigger than needed to give me some leeway in mask-placement. Will post end result. I changed my mind and left the gear off for now beacuse I need to handle the kit a lot in this phase. Even happier than before!

Got a bit of work done on the wing seams. First I masked them off. Next I filled them with Vallejo acrylic putty. I never used this before and am quite impressed with the stuff so far. The tube has a tiny nozzle which helps to apply it precisely. It dries quickly but needs time to dry hard enough for sanding. Obviously I found that out by being too impatient Then I smoothed it out with a wet finger, let it dry, and lastly applie a final layer of good old Tamiya putty. I know for a fact it sands out ver smoothly, the Vallejo stuff I will test in that respect on another part of this Spit. I also started on the lower engine cover. To get that to fit snuggly one needs to reserve an hour of their time, but I got it to fit nicely without the need of much putty as i do not like sanding. I still had to invest time, just not in sanding. Plus, the adjescent detail would be destoyed by sanding. That makes me lazy or efficient depending from point of view Pics will follow next time. Still happy!

aeroscale.kitmaker.net  - news Juraj

Hey LSP followers, I built the I-16 and the I 153 from ICM offering while in Singaporemand they were so easy to build. I can sent you photos on PM. One word of caution. The I-16 gear is super flimsy. I would highly recommend the brass aftermarket offerings. Lastly, the fuselage to main wing fairing is a major gap to properly seal. There are small posts that take up this gap into consideration and to be glued together. After handling the model over time, one of the post popped And I now have a seam issue to address after almost being finished with this build. You’ll likely not see it but I do! Big time bummer! The gear on the I-153 is totally solid in plastic. Such an easy kit to assemble. The wing to wing mounts are really designed well and you need no alinement rigging tool. A solid joint is easy to obtain. One of the easiest bi wing models to ever put together. go forth happy and hopefully you won’t glue your fingers together!

Having "started" 3 Trumpeter kits, A-7D, F-8E and kit bashing 2 F-100Ds into a F-100F all have shape issues, way over done and inconstant surface detail and some fit issues. However, they are all buildable if you've willing to go the extra mile or two. I think that Karl's final statement speaks to Trumpeter's real strength. Barry

The Gnome boxing of the WNW Sopwith Pup has them Matt

Lovely jobly...Nice lookin 109 u have there Tolga

I had a very short time off, 4 days, of which 3 were busy with stuff unrelated to enjoying time at the bench... BUT! Got a few stickers on on the one side! Cheers Harald