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  1. Hello amurray, I'm glad I could convince you. I was lucky enough that Kenji-san sent me a complimentary copy. But the book is listed on Amazon Japan: https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/4769816685/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=247&creative=1211&creativeASIN=4769816685&linkCode=as2&tag=kamimokeicom-22 If this doesn't work for you the, I hope information on the Amazon page should at least be a start in tracking down a copy. As well the ISBN number is: ISBN978-4-7698-1668-3 C0095 Ryan
  2. Hello Gentlemen, Kenji Miyazaki’s recent book Reisen no mekanizumu (Mechanism of Zero-sen) indicates that both the A6M3 and A6M5 cowlings measured out at the same length of 1030 mm (pp. 14, 21). The image below shows both an A6M3 and an A6M5 cowling with three reference points in alignment. If the gun ports were different in their placement one would expect these points would not all line up. This second image allows the A6M3 and A6M5 gun ports to be compared in more detail. A comparison of both length and width would not show them to be the same in these respects unless again they were identical. I suspect the perception that the gun ports were not identical stems from the differences in the front of the A6M3 and A6M5 cowlings due to the respective configuration of the upper air intake. Ryan
  3. Glad to help. But I also found two errors and have reposted the problem paragraph below - errors/corrections in bold. And I have no idea why wing tank booster pump switches ended up underlined. Ryan Cockpit Use the cockpit floor Part E39 (or shorten the front of Q45 from the A6M2) and cockpit walls E21 and N5. However, Tamiya muddled the A6M2 fittings on the A6M2 kit. Part Q14 is a morse code key that was not always put in use. Either install it as is indicated or leave the mounting platform empty, file off the raised square on the top of the platform, and drill a lightening hole in the centre of the platform. Part E30 is actually the controller for the Type 3 Model 1 Transceiver which was only introduced with the A6M5. Fortunately, Part E29, the RDF controller, is included in the A6M2 kit and should be put into the location indicated for E30. The radio components Q47 and Q28 are correct for the A6M3.
  4. Hello Gentlemen, Juggernaut gave me a heads up on this thread and i got diverted from what I am supposed to be doing (LOL) to do a quick write-up of my notes on doing a Tamiya A6M2/M5 conversion to an A6M3 32. I'll try tp post some pics later on. Converting the 1/32 Tamiya A6M2 to an A6M3 Fuselage The needed spinner and prop are included as “not used parts”. Use parts E1, E2, E7, E10, E11 and E14. The A6M2 kit also has most of the needed engine parts for the Sakae 21. Substitute the following parts: - D20 for Q44; D12 for Q40; D13 for Q39; - the exhaust components for the Sakae 12 should fit onto the new Sakae 21 engine but may need some adjustment - build the rear section of the engine with parts D15, D19, D26 (x2), D28, D29 - for the front of the engine use D4, D14, and D27 instead of Q17 and Q46. - use engine mounts D30 and 31. The A6M2 fuselage must have the firewall moved back a scale 185 mm. It should be possible to use firewall part D22 and the oil tank D21 instead of parts K23 and K25. However, the heat shield K12 may not fit on the new configuration. The big problem is the cowling, cowl flaps, and accessory section. The easiest solution is to use the fuselage and cowling from the A6M5 kit. If it is possible to order spare parts put in a request for Sprues A and C (Sprue C also includes the proper heat shield mentioned above). If the A6M5 cowling is used the cowl gun ports do not need to be changed, but the air intake at the top of the cowl must be reworked. The cowl flaps will also have to be revised. The A6M5 accessory section panels will also have to have the small heat shield panels removed. Using the A6M5 fuselage also takes care of the change to the upper panel of the accessory section as well as the revised fuselage gas tank access panel. If the A6M5 fuselage is being used the small oval access panel on the left side of the base of the tail fin will have to be removed - unless the A6M3 being built has a m/n of 3304 or higher. Beginning with the 304th A6M3 the rudder had an adjustable trim tab (as is found on the A6M5 Sprue A. For the fin itself use Parts L20 and L14 from the A6M2 kit. Cockpit Use the cockpit floor Part E39 (or shorten the front of Q45 from the A6M2) and cockpit walls EE21 and N5. However, Tamiya muddled the A6M2 fittings on the A6M2 kit. Part Q14 is a morse code key that was not always put in use. Either install it as is indicated or leave the mounting platform empty, file off the raised square on the top of the platform, and drill a lightening hole in the centre of the platform. Part E30 is actually the controller for the Type 3 Model 1 Transceiver which was only introduced with the A6M5. Fortunately, Part E30, the RDF controller, is included in the A6M2 kit and should be put into the location indicated for E30. The radio components Q47 and Q28 are correct for the A6M3. Except for early production A6M3s Part E37 should have the extension for the hydraulic pressure gauge cut off. The instrument panel may need some modification. The A6M2 kit panel is correct for very early production Type 32s but the components below the panel were soon modified. A6M2 Part Q48 consists of an inclinometer on the left and an oxygen supply regulator on the right. Looking at the lower section of Part E42 there can be seen, from left to right, a combination hydraulic gauge and oxygen supply regulator, a electrical firing system controller, and wing tank booster pump switches. The changes occurred as follows: - the inclinometer remained on the left side throughout Type 32 production. - the electrical firing controller never was in use on the Type 32 but very early in its production the combination hydraulic gauge and oxygen supply regulator was located in this position. Note that when this was done the hydraulic gauge mentioned above was moved from the location on part E37. - the wing tank booster pump switches box was added at some point in the later production of the Type 32. Wings The Type 32 initially used Type 99 Mark 1 20mm wing guns with a 100 round ammunition drum. This larger drum made it necessary for the underwing gun bay covers to have large blisters to accommodate the drums. Thus use Parts L16 and L17. Half of the last 40 Type 32s (beginning with m/n 3304) were equipped with long barreled Type 99 Mark 2 20mm wing guns. The ammunition bay cover may have been simplified; thus Parts L16 and 17 should have some of the scribed panel lines filled in. As well, the cannon barrels will have to be replaced. The small round indentation on each of the A6M2 upper wings just inboard of the gun bay should be changed to a U-shaped hinged panel. The early production Type 32s retained some of the fittings for the A6M2 folding wing-tips. This included the flare in the end of both spars and the underwing access panel for the wingtip latch to the rear of the front spar. In about the mid-production period of the Type 32 the flare in the end of the spars was eliminated as were the remains of the wing fold latch mechanism. The early squared wingtip fairing had a panel line in the middle of the fairing. This was done away with in the later production aircraft. The ailerons, Parts 2, 4, 9, and 11 should be shortened one rib width at either end. The space on the wing between the inner end of the aileron and the flap line will have to be filled in. Hope this helps, Ryan
  5. What a great build. I have one detail that could still be added. The Kamikawa-Maru Rufes had the last digit of their tail code painted on the front of the float pylon. In this case it would have been a single red "1". Ryan
  6. Hello Kirby, Here are the details on that vent system. The air intake’s location in the leading edge of the right wing can be seen in the drawing below. The vent had a cover that could be used to open up or close off the air flow. The cover was controlled by a T-handle on the right floor of the cockpit. The vent could also be pointed to direct the air flow as wanted. The air in the cockpit then would flow out through the hole in the canopy just behind the antenna mast. It’s really the same fresh air vent system as in a car (but without the added benefit of A/C). Ryan
  7. I suspect the best approach would be to pick and chose the PE parts that would best enhance the kit. That would seem to be the ribs and the front face of the outer wheel wells. I don't believe i had posted the image below which gives you the details of the rest of the well. There were some minor differences between the Mitsubishi and the Nakajima wheel wells, but these were mostly in the various plumbing lines were routed. The drawings that were posted are for the Nakajima Zero. Ryan
  8. Hello Kirby, Great work on the cockpit. You have put your summer break to good use. (Summer break, eh? Today my wife and I went for a walk to enjoy the balmy weather of +2° C, a good 20° above the usual temps at this time of year.) The opening behind the rollover pylon is to accommodate the fitting of the RDF loop antenna. The base of the antenna fits into the rear of the opening and the antenna mount is then held in place by 3 bolts. You are right that if the RDF controller is not present the antenna would also be removed. The three holes could either be left open or the bolts could be threaded back in place. I suspect it depends what the crew chief ordered. The rectangular opening should also be extended to the rear. As well, note that all the rivets on the cockpit decking, both in front and behind the cockpit, were raised and not flush as is depicted on the kit. Ryan
  9. Kirby, the cockpit looks amazing - well done indeed. Several points on the instrument panel. In the first image below, A is the emergency engine power boost button. It should be bare aluminum. B is the magneto switch; you might want to add a few touches of white paint to detail it. You also can see next to each instrument is a small placard that labels what the instrument is. I have no good idea how one would add such details. Is it even feasible to add little black decal rectangles beside each instrument – I’m really actually fishing for ideas here. C indicates that the body of the compass should be black. But while this is probably the most obvious addition it would need some real careful brush work. Incidentally, the Hasegawa A6M5 has a decal for this and several other instrument details. I have the kit, but I also went and ordered a separate decal sheet to get some of those details for other builds. Another detail that could still be added is a white decal to the wall of the left side of the cockpit. This is the aircraft ID “plate”. Up until starting to build the A6M5, Nakajima, like Mitsubishi, riveted an aluminum ID plate in this location. But for some reason, as seen in the IWM A6M5, Nakajima switched to a paper stuck to the cockpit wall. Hmm, so which clock is Mr. Flav using? Ryan
  10. Also, Kirby, my apologies for mixing your name up with Alex a couple of posts back. Ryan
  11. I don't see this being done on the 52 panel as expalined in the picture caption below. I also have to reconsider this for the 21 and 32 Zeros. The photo is of the A6M3 captured at Buna and rebuilt by the Allies. What the reconstruction team did may be different than what the Japanese did. I think I have mentioned it before, but you may want to leave the clock out of the IP and just have an empty hole. It was considered cool by the pilots to have this clock strung around their neck on parachute line. The control stick could then be tied in place (forward and to the left) with a short cord passed through this hole in the IP. This would "lock" the conrols with the elevators down and the left aileron up and the right one down. Ryan
  12. Hello Alex, Your aotake painted “hollow cylinder” is a mounting base for a de-icer fluid tank. (C on the illustration below). The pilot would push and pull the pump on the instrument panel (B) to get de-icer fluid to go up to the prop hub where centrifugal force would push the fluid out of the three holes (A) set in the spinner between each of the prop blades. Most Zeros had this system removed, leaving an open hole in place of the pump on the instrument panel. This hole (pictured in Photo B/b on page 26 of the Tamiya instruction booklet) needs to be added to Part A17. The three holes in the spinner are partially engraved in the Tamiya kit, but they too should be drilled out. Ryan
  13. Kirby, way back on 13 August you asked what is PE part 82 (found on the left side of the interior of the fuselage behind the cockpit). This "box" contains the fittings needed to pressurize the wing cannon pneumatic charging system when the engine was not running, allowing the ground grew to check and maintain the system. Note that the opening for the air pressure filler valve (2) is not included on the Tamiya kit and thus needs to be added. Ryan
  14. Hello Kirby, This is looking to be a great build and I would be to add some advice details. That way the differences in modelling the A6M5 can be brought to the fore. At this point i have only two comments. The image below shows how the mounting base for the tail hook disengagement handle should be removed (as you have already done) and the lightening holes drilled out so they match on each of the left and right ribs. The second image provides details on how the fire extinguisher control box was mounted. It hangs suspended on bungee cords at both the top and bottom of the box. Incidentally, the radio transmitter/receiver behind the cockpit was mounted in a similar fashion. It also should be mentioned that Nakajima cockpits had all the components made of steel painted gloss black. In many current Zero wrecks this would be any rusted components such as the seat mounts seen in the above photo. I haven't yet been able to find a photo of 210-105. I'm therefore going to make a plea for 8-13. I have a dozen images of this plane, which is always good for details. As well, the c/n is known (Nakajima c/n 2282) and the pilot is also probably known - OZAKI (尾崎), Mitsuyasu. And it too is lacking the RDF equipment. Ryan
  15. Hello Alex, Great looking model - well done. But, and there's always a but, the prop spinner should have the de-icing holes between each of the prop blades drilled out. You mentioned the prop is removable so it still could be lone with not too much trouble. I'm glad I could provide a few suggestions while you did all the work. Ryan
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