modelingbob

I second what Sapper said. Tamiya acrylics chip off pretty easily with a toothpick.

Future does work very nicely for what you want to do.

<<<Right now I am guessing that some Nellis F-16's have FS35109 and some have FS35190 as their darker blue shades but any informed insights would help.>>> I'm not an expert on this, but while researching my F-16 Aggressor build I reached the same conclusion. My only suggestion is to try and find a pic of the specific bird and then hope it's of good enough quality to tell the shades apart. I tried to find a pic of my bird, could not, and followed the decal instructions. Also note that you have posted pics of AK, Ellis, and NSAWC birds, and I think their may be differences in the blues used for each squadron.

To answer your direct question, Mr Color Levelling Thinner is nothing more than Mr Color Thinner with an added retarder. The formulaes are virtually identical (except for the added retarder!). The added retarder helps prevent tip dry on your airbrush, helps prevents "stringing" (the paints solvent evaporating inside your airbrush causing the paint to thicken) , and also slows the drying rate down on the painted surface so it will self level better. You can buy Mr Color Retarder as a stand alone product and add it to both versions to slow down the drying time of the paint. I will even add Mr Retarder to Mr Color Levelling Thinner to make a higher glossy shine when I require it. As previously mentioned, Gunze and Tamiya alcohol based acrylics can be thinned with either version of the thinner (in addition to the other alcohol based acrylics). In addition, it is my preferred thinner for Testors enamel paints (including Model Master), working better than mineral spirits and even Testors own thinner. IMNSHO, Mr Color Leveling Thinner performs better than the "regular version" and is my preferred choice for thinner since it helps solve the above issues.

It took about 2.5 months for my package to arrive from China to San Jose CA. But it was pretty cheap shipping. It was advertised as 4-24 weeks shipping time to the USA from the USA.

Today, (SEP 14 2018).

Just to clarify, Revell of Germany (RoG) will only support parts request for RoG issued kits. RoG are pretty fast in responding and it's free! RoG will not support old Revell USA kits. So, if you have a Revell USA kit you need parts for, you are pretty much screwed at this time.

There is no more Revell USA. They ceased operations in April 2018.

I already do this. It helps a bunch, but eventually the tip clogs up with superglue and I still have to drill it out. The hypo needle approach sound interesting, but I wonder how you can burn off the metal tip without melting the plastic tip since the metal tubing conducts heat very nicely!

Me three!!! I always end up drilling it out.

I've never used hairspray but have used the MiG stuff. Just drop some neat into your airbrush, airbrush a nice coat on, let dry for a few minutes, and then airbrush your paint. Acrylic paints do work best, but you can also use enamels or acrylic lacquers. Enamels and acrylic lacquers are more impervious to water so using them is a little bit more difficult (but you can do it).

Tamiya X-22 Clear thinned with Mr Color Levelling Thinner is a great clear gloss. BTW, if you already have the Mr Color Levelling Thinner you may want to try it with Future. Thinning Future with it makes it behave much better.

I use it on bare plastic with no issues. It works fantastic! On painted plastic, it will remove most acrylics and some (but not all) colors of lacquer paints (like Mr Color). If you decide to chance using it on a painted surface, spray the cloth with Windex and then wipe. Do not spray directly onto a painted surface or your paint may strip when you wipe it. I've now switched over to Zeiss Lens Cleaner (I had it anyways to clean my glasses) and that stuff is also fantastic and won't affect paint (although it is a bit more expensive).

Personally, I like the new software. A great upgrade from the old software IMNSHO. Just a satisfied user who's expressing his opinion!!!!

I'm in a modeling funk also right now. Started on the Revell P-51 a little while ago, was enjoying the build, and then my busy flyfishing season started and I got distracted. So I put it away for a few weeks to let all the join seams solidify before sanding. But I think it's a good thing to step away and take a break every now and then. I've decided I'd rather do this for the time being!!! Caught on a 16 wt flyrod!!!