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modelingbob

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modelingbob last won the day on February 12 2014

modelingbob had the most liked content!

About modelingbob

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    Hooked For Life

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    Male
  • Location
    San Jose, CA USA
  • Interests
    Fly fishing & model builing

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  1. The "correct" answer is none! I have not found any paints that will do what you want them to do in a single pass. Some paints are better than others in coverage, but fine & tight airbrushing requires thinned paints (especially with a 0.2 nozzle) and that means less opaque coverage. The "new" crop of acrylic lacquers (like Mr Color & MRP) are better at this job, but still require multiple passes.
  2. I've experienced slow loading on a random basis. Sometimes lightning fast and sometimes incredibly slow. No rhyme or reason.
  3. Never fill up your bottle with decanted spray bomb paint! I always fill about 1/4 of the way, maximum. If you fill to the top, you may witness an explosion with paint bubbling out all over the place. Do not ask how I know this! Placing a cocktail stick into the paint helps outgassing, and by gently, and I mean gently, stirring it will help accelerate the outgassing process.
  4. I decant and shoot Tamiya lacquer spray bombs all the time. You typically need to add some thinner and I use both Tamiya Lacquer Thinner and Mr Color Levelling Thinner (both work great)(I thin just prior to airbrushing). I typically wait about 30-60 minutes for the decanted paint to outgas in an open jar, and I have no problems airbrushing them.
  5. I've experienced the exact same thing with MiG/Ammo enamel washes. they are fantastic when newly opened but they have limited shelf life once opened. The only solution I can figure out is to not open them (but that kinda defeats the purpose!). Once they go "bad" you might as well pitch them in the trash as there is no recovery. What I'm doing now, is using MiG's Oilbrushers (same enamel base as their washes) and thinning into washes only when I actually use them.
  6. Some do ship only surface, some do ship via air. Same with MRP, and that's why you can no longer get MRP shipped to the USA directly from MRP (that used to solve my availability problem, but alas, no more). The stockist should let you which way they ship, and then you can make your own decision. I have no problems getting Mr Color from Asian stores shipped to me via air, and it's dirt cheap (Seal Models is $1.80 a bottle!). My last order from Seal Models a few months ago came via air. Ebay is also a great source for Mr Color paints and all the ones I use ship via air.
  7. Agree with you 100%, you aren't an outlier. While MRP is a great paint, it's difficult to touch up chips/scratches/etc by brush since it is ultra thin. Therefore, you have to touch up with another paint brand, driving up the cost for expensive paint even further, and making color matches tough. Mr Color touches up just fine via brush.
  8. I used to own a small retail store. I would never dream of telling my customers who wanted to buy my products, "Honestly, is the delay *that* big a deal? Do we *have* to have model paint pronto like a hot pie out of the oven?". I refuse to give my money to any business that would even think of saying something like that. To each his own, and if you choose to spend your money there that's your business choice, not mine.
  9. Very true in my experience. I've been dealing with Hobbyworld-USA for over 5 years with MRP paints, since they are the only US stockist and MRP will not ship direct to the US. If I can get half of the paints I need without backorder, I'm doing lucky. And my backorder times have varied from 2 weeks to 3 months over that 5 year period. . WW2 USA Neutral Gray is very difficult to get in stock (to name only one popular color). Recently, they've been doing a better job of keeping paints in stock, though. No thanks, I'll stick with Mr Color, it's far cheaper and readily available.
  10. MRP is almost 300% more expensive for me in the US than my favorite brand of paint, Mr Color. As you will also eventually find out, it is very difficult to get in the US, because the only US stockist (Hobbyworld USA) is usually out of the popular colors. So, you better plan on buying MRP a year in advance of your need, when it becomes available. In terms of performance, I find Mr Color and MRP to be virtually identical, in airbrushing, coverage, and durability. On my bench, Mr Color is the go to paint, and MRP is only used when Mr Color does not have an out of the bottle paint match.
  11. I like it!!! Now go fish them and report back! Of note, I'm a fly fisherman who tyes all my own flies, and I do the same thing you did using my airbrush and modeling paints! I usually paint them to look like an actual baitfish. But I never thought about painting them like an airplane!!!! Good job!!!!
  12. This is the Vallejo wash I have. And I can not remove it once it has dried. So, I apply it where needed, and immediately clean it up where needed before it dries.
  13. I don't know exactly what Vallejo water based wash you're using, but my bottles of Vallejo water based washes, are not removable once they dry. You must "work" them to your desired effect before they dry.
  14. I use Microscale Liquitape to join clear parts where you get a join that is visible. Paint it on the edge of the clear part where it attaches, let it dry, and then attach it. No capillary action to deal with and go places where you don't want it to go!
  15. I use Mr Color Levelling Thinner with AKAN acrylic lacquers. Works perfectly.
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