modelingbob

Eduard Brassin has the correct wheels for a BF-109G2. This set also includes the tail wheel. Eduard Brassin BF 109 E Wheels 1/32, #632 004. Note: The G-2 had the same retractable tail wheel well set up as the F (see pic above), so you will need to modify that also if your donor kit is a G-6. But that's an easy fix.

The answer depends on if accuracy and tons of work is your goal or not. OOB, without any additional work or aftermarket, the answer is no, as the kit does NOT contain the parts needed to easily and accurately do a conversion. If you're willing to scratch build/modify included parts, then it is possible with work.

I generally do not like high contrast (like white) gloss undercoats for lozenge decals, because you often damage/crack/chip small pieces off of the decal whilst applying and it shows up like a sore thumb. And that requires a lot of work to correct. I much prefer a color of paint that is closer to one of the decal colors. That being said, some lozenge decals are meant to be applied over a white basecoat for color fidelity, so it really depends on the manufacturer instructions. I prefer lacquer paints (especially gloss) due to their quick dry/cure time and durability. I less prefer water based a

As MM said, I don't think there is a Canadian vendor for MRP. Hobbyworld USA will ship to Canada. http://www.hobbyworld-usa.com/Store/index.php

I recommend Mr Color acrylic lacquers. It is a high quality paint every bit as good as MRP. Way cheaper than MRP and better availability in the USA. It's my go to paint, with MRP coming in at second place. Unfortunately, all of the acrylic lacquers smell (including Mr Color and MRP), so if you're spraying in a small confined space that could be an issue to consider.

Yep. And also evidence that these planes sometimes got pretty dirty and beat up. That's why the old saying of "no crew chief would ever" or "they weren't used that long" is often wrong. The simple takeaway from this eight pages of discussion, is if accuracy is your goal, let your photo references determine how it should look.

Personally, if you're going to be using MRP a lot in the future, I'd invest in a bottle of Mr Color Levelling Thinner for thinning purposes. Tamiya Lacquer Thinner can also be used. In a pinch, hardware store denatured alcohol or isopropol alcohol (90%) can also be used. But, Mr Color Levelling Thinner is the best. Be careful that the Tamiya and Vallejo thinners stocked at your LHS are for "regular" acrylics and not good for acrylic lacquers like MRP. And MRP's Have Glass (#278) is a clear flat with metallic particles included and if the Greek F16 had it applied atop their Greek colors would w

Yes. They are fantastic. They airbrush beautifully, dry quickly, very durable, and are resistant to masking pull up.

Yep, and that is exactly why a per ML cost comparison is invalid for Mr Color VS MRP. Makes people "think" they're getting a better deal (when they're actually not).

#1) Mr Color is A LOT cheaper than MRP for me in the USA. The 10 ML bottle of Mr Color will cover about the same amount of plastic as the 30ML bottle of MRP, so on a cost per ML basis the comparison is irrelevant as 10 ML of Mr Color is the equal of a 30 ML bottle of MRP. Here is what I pay for Mr Color. I buy Mr Color from Asian hobby shops for $1.80 a bottle. Add in 20 ML of Mr Color Levelling Thinner and that adds $0.80 in cost to that for 30 ML of Mr Color costing $2.60 a bottle. I could go even cheaper (but I don't) if I use denatured alcohol as the thinner. The cheapest USA stockist of M

Ummm, no he's not. Mr Color is far superior because: 1) it's far cheaper in the USA, 2) doesn't come in bottles that crack and tip over easily, 3) more available in the USA; and most important of all: 4) it's brush paintable, so you have perfect color matches for touchups with the exact paint you airbrushed. MRP is good paint, but it's not the be-all end-all of paints.

The "correct" answer is none! I have not found any paints that will do what you want them to do in a single pass. Some paints are better than others in coverage, but fine & tight airbrushing requires thinned paints (especially with a 0.2 nozzle) and that means less opaque coverage. The "new" crop of acrylic lacquers (like Mr Color & MRP) are better at this job, but still require multiple passes.

Never fill up your bottle with decanted spray bomb paint! I always fill about 1/4 of the way, maximum. If you fill to the top, you may witness an explosion with paint bubbling out all over the place. Do not ask how I know this! Placing a cocktail stick into the paint helps outgassing, and by gently, and I mean gently, stirring it will help accelerate the outgassing process.

I decant and shoot Tamiya lacquer spray bombs all the time. You typically need to add some thinner and I use both Tamiya Lacquer Thinner and Mr Color Levelling Thinner (both work great)(I thin just prior to airbrushing). I typically wait about 30-60 minutes for the decanted paint to outgas in an open jar, and I have no problems airbrushing them.