Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


modelingbob last won the day on February 12 2014

modelingbob had the most liked content!

About modelingbob

  • Rank
    Hooked For Life

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    San Jose, CA USA
  • Interests
    Fly fishing & model builing

Recent Profile Visitors

210 profile views
  1. For some reason that I can not understand, water slide decals stick better to a painted surface versus bare plastic. In some instances (especially acrylic gloss), the decal solvents may react with the gloss and bond better. I have experienced this especially with Future, and in some instances I can not remove the decal with the usual tape pulI method because they have bonded to the Future. I have used both a gloss clear, and gloss paints without any issues, but I mostly use gloss paints for big decals like lozenge. If you go the gloss paint route, the underlying gloss color may change the decal color slightly so it's best to do a test run first to make sure you are getting the end color you want on your decals. WNW says to not use decal solutions, but I use a mild solution of Microsol (thinned 1:1 with distilled water).
  2. I second what Sapper said. Tamiya acrylics chip off pretty easily with a toothpick.
  3. modelingbob

    PE Question

    Future does work very nicely for what you want to do.
  4. <<<Right now I am guessing that some Nellis F-16's have FS35109 and some have FS35190 as their darker blue shades but any informed insights would help.>>> I'm not an expert on this, but while researching my F-16 Aggressor build I reached the same conclusion. My only suggestion is to try and find a pic of the specific bird and then hope it's of good enough quality to tell the shades apart. I tried to find a pic of my bird, could not, and followed the decal instructions. Also note that you have posted pics of AK, Ellis, and NSAWC birds, and I think their may be differences in the blues used for each squadron.
  5. modelingbob

    Gunze thinner vs leveling thinner

    To answer your direct question, Mr Color Levelling Thinner is nothing more than Mr Color Thinner with an added retarder. The formulaes are virtually identical (except for the added retarder!). The added retarder helps prevent tip dry on your airbrush, helps prevents "stringing" (the paints solvent evaporating inside your airbrush causing the paint to thicken) , and also slows the drying rate down on the painted surface so it will self level better. You can buy Mr Color Retarder as a stand alone product and add it to both versions to slow down the drying time of the paint. I will even add Mr Retarder to Mr Color Levelling Thinner to make a higher glossy shine when I require it. As previously mentioned, Gunze and Tamiya alcohol based acrylics can be thinned with either version of the thinner (in addition to the other alcohol based acrylics). In addition, it is my preferred thinner for Testors enamel paints (including Model Master), working better than mineral spirits and even Testors own thinner. IMNSHO, Mr Color Leveling Thinner performs better than the "regular version" and is my preferred choice for thinner since it helps solve the above issues.
  6. modelingbob

    EPacket Shipping

    It took about 2.5 months for my package to arrive from China to San Jose CA. But it was pretty cheap shipping. It was advertised as 4-24 weeks shipping time to the USA from the USA.
  7. modelingbob

    ROLL Models

    Today, (SEP 14 2018).
  8. modelingbob

    Direct contact for Revell USA?

    Just to clarify, Revell of Germany (RoG) will only support parts request for RoG issued kits. RoG are pretty fast in responding and it's free! RoG will not support old Revell USA kits. So, if you have a Revell USA kit you need parts for, you are pretty much screwed at this time.
  9. modelingbob

    Direct contact for Revell USA?

    There is no more Revell USA. They ceased operations in April 2018.
  10. modelingbob

    super glue tip clogging

    I already do this. It helps a bunch, but eventually the tip clogs up with superglue and I still have to drill it out. The hypo needle approach sound interesting, but I wonder how you can burn off the metal tip without melting the plastic tip since the metal tubing conducts heat very nicely!
  11. modelingbob

    super glue tip clogging

    Me three!!! I always end up drilling it out.
  12. I've never used hairspray but have used the MiG stuff. Just drop some neat into your airbrush, airbrush a nice coat on, let dry for a few minutes, and then airbrush your paint. Acrylic paints do work best, but you can also use enamels or acrylic lacquers. Enamels and acrylic lacquers are more impervious to water so using them is a little bit more difficult (but you can do it).
  13. modelingbob

    Gloss Coat Recommendations

    Tamiya X-22 Clear thinned with Mr Color Levelling Thinner is a great clear gloss. BTW, if you already have the Mr Color Levelling Thinner you may want to try it with Future. Thinning Future with it makes it behave much better.
  14. modelingbob


    I use it on bare plastic with no issues. It works fantastic! On painted plastic, it will remove most acrylics and some (but not all) colors of lacquer paints (like Mr Color). If you decide to chance using it on a painted surface, spray the cloth with Windex and then wipe. Do not spray directly onto a painted surface or your paint may strip when you wipe it. I've now switched over to Zeiss Lens Cleaner (I had it anyways to clean my glasses) and that stuff is also fantastic and won't affect paint (although it is a bit more expensive).