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Fancherello

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Fancherello last won the day on November 30 2018

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About Fancherello

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  • Birthday 01/15/1977

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  1. Hi and thank you ! I'm honestly glad you said that: i really look for subtle and second reading effects for that cowling. I restrain myself alot on weathering and artefacts to try and stick to the original pic that i put a few posts before ! More generally, even though i enjoy all kind of contrasts for watching, i like my models to have subtle light/shadow modulation ( whuch doesnt mean weathering to me ) effects
  2. And we now have a yellow cowling. En route to the nose arts.
  3. Base coat is Tamiya's new lacquer silver paint, then nsome hairspray I've been using four shades of grey based on Gunze's H69 and black. I've textured the paint with Ushi's and Radu Brinzan's splatter stencils. First with larger blotches then as i was reducing contrasts, i went for thinner and crisper patterns. I've added a few wind streaks by whipping the wings with some airbrush fine lining. I tried to use not too use contrasted grey to minimize the use of blending mist for final adjusting. The splatter stencils dont need much contrast to have the effect show up due to the hard edge demarcation. Next step will be challenging: i'm keeping as close to the pic ( previous post) as possible and almost no chipping is visible at that distance ( apart in the wing root shine ). So my chipping will have to be visible only on close up.
  4. Hi Anthony and thank you ! I'm glad to confuse your mind, as you said, a sign this starts to work ! And you have the proof that its no cheat with colors with that thick pink finger ! Bye !
  5. Work continues ! And i've started working on a Reedoak figure: Bye! Fanch
  6. hello i've put my Silhouette mask cutter at ork, and here we are now: bye ! Fanch
  7. Thanks a lot Anthony ! I couldnt imagine coming here with pics and keeping the method i used secret ! For sure, it's a pleasure to share
  8. hello Eric I must turn crazy. I remember rebuilding the aft section of the rudder, because of an incorrect number of triangular fences/stiffeners that sit on the trailing edge...a friend gave me a ref pic showing that one was missing. I've found back some pics of my QF-100 and i set accordingly 11 blades.( Air Modeller issue 31) and looking for a pic to illustrate, i count them 10 on any of the real one i've found in pic and 10 on the kit ? But in the mean time i remember redoing that area because of that obvious pic....much much annoying, both because i made you loose time reading this and because after finding back the original drone's pic...it has 10 blades too. So: mistake. So i think you'd better disregard that info, because i'm not sure that reference was appropriate ! Sorry for that. ( And i get back to googling rudders )
  9. Very good start to say the least. Knowing your quality standards and seing that you have the Aires bays, may i suggest you to consider the Eduard set that provides details for the main landing gear doors ? This is a real good ref that provides boxed doors. Maybe one tbe best Eduard sets i've used ( we all know that some can also be crappy ). Another info i was given when i built my QF-100D: the number of fences on the rudder is not correct. Dumb, but once you know it...you want that easy mod to be done !!! I'll follow that thread with pleasure !
  10. hello and thaks so much for your comments. I'm really glad that this may inspire and transmit a bit of will to try that theme ! paintwork is about a bit of discipline, which i hate, but which here is rewarding. I used Infini brand sanders from 600 to all the way up to get rid of the plastic grain and polish the NMF areas. Then some Mr Color GX-2 with Mr Levelling Thinner for a slow and stretched curing. If needed or if any touch ups has been done, rebuff. Then a nice layer of KColor Aliminum 15 and you end up with a shiny shine thing. But also very white an neutral which i need for my B&W thing. KColor are alcohol based so adding a few drop ofGunze H77 tyre black gave the shadowing and weathering shade. Srayed far, it's grayish, sprayed close it's a bit darker. I did some freehand shadings and some stencil-through srpraying to create all the artefacts. An interesting pic i've been provided with shows some light lines above rivets lines with displaced shadows: this has been simply done my using thin strips of masking tape and a fine spray on top of it. Then scratches and texture: i used some sanding pads from inifini brand: 2500 grit for general texturing, 1000 grit to scratch areas covered with the darkest shadows. You want to let the pad slide on the paint with no push and let it catch the weathering miw that is a bit flat. A final mist of pure KColor Aluminium 15 helped ajudsting contrasts. thanks again for that kick of motivation Fanch
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