Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    All parts dryfitted :
  2. 2 points
    So, here we have the first "building block" of the cockpit. Instruments are a mix of my own design (MDC) and Airscale. Once applied over a gloss surface, they are brushed with Microsol and color details corrected, such as the colored instrument rims. It's not perfect but i think it will be OK. Once dry, each instrument is sealed with a drop of Tamiya clear mixed with Smoke and Yellow to give the correct hue for the white (instrument decals are always too white for the scale) I've assembled the rudder pedals and next job is to tackle the compass, then add the rudder cables and glue that asembly to the bulkhead assembly. Slowly getting there The pedals are offset since the rudder will be angled Et petit coucou aux masteriens adeptes de la pensee unique
  3. 2 points
    during recent evenings I have been busy with paint! taking a step away from my usual 1:72 projects, I must say that the ejection seat and the pilot are already a project of their own. Here is some pictures. The pre-coloured PE worked quite well even though it was meant for the Trumpeter kit: time for a layer of matt varnish for everything and some gloss for the visor and I can think about closing up the cockpit!
  4. 2 points
    Hi Chrish, thanks for your support. Speaking of support I put the aircraft on a temporary stand to see what it looks like, what I have in mind. that is what I am looking for! still need to do more work on the nos wheels as they are standing too far apart. Also the main landing wheels are too square in profile. All in all the landing gear is not bad, but a bit too skinny. You wonder if Revell had the nerve to deliver the parts for the gear in plastic, they might want to have made the parts at least as thick as in real life. I am not so worried for this one, being up in the air. with some final touches on the cockpit, it's almost time to start painting!
  5. 1 point
    hello builders, already since Revell announced in 2016 the F/A-18E Super Hornet in 1:32 I have been looking forward to its arrival. Then it became 2017, nothing. Then 2018, again nothing. During Euro Scale Model last November in Holland I asked one of the Revell people what was going on, there was apparently some challenges with the molds. Then, after a wait of 3 years, I was one of the first to buy it when it hit the shelves. in the mean time there were already some photo's going around of a model at the Spielwahrenmesse where people noticed some inaccuracies in the shape, which were recently enforced by builders, on top of which there was various fit issues. Yikes I thought, have I now waited so long to find out I must spend 1.5x the money for the Trumpeter kit (that also has issues)? Nope, after having dryfitted the parts that gave others the fit issues, I concluded that with their lessons learned I could probably correct them and complete a build, share some my findings and hopefully solutions as I go. And of course I can only thank Mark and vladHVAC to have shared their startling first experiences on the net, I hope to deal with some of the issues they experienced on time. Looking at the manual, where they indicate that parts need to be cut off for half a mm, I can only conclude that this has not been Revell's finest, but after some dryfitting and testing I am not sure yet if this model is deserving the criticism that it gets. We shall see, shall we? this is the model at hand: one of the most eyecatching features that causes discussions is the shape of the spine, just behind the cockpit. Many find it too flat and I would have to agree. Because this is the most radical change I decided to start with correcting this. Looking at the F-18 C Hornet of Academy, you see indeed a much rounder form. With some plasticard I made the shape of the spine: if you now put this template onto the spine of the super hornet, then you clearly see the difference. Also the Revell spine tends to become more square going aft. I think that a constant radius would be looking much better and realistic: With which I do not claim that the spines of Hornets and Super Hornets are the same of course. Now I think that with some sanding the spine can easily improved. Before I do that I have to reinforce it on the inside with some Miliput 2 component filler: btw see that I also split up the ECS exhaust between the tail to align each part more properly with the outer skin. Next step is sanding. With a sanding stick I sanded the shape of spine into a constant radius: After this, I compared both sides. On the left the original spine, on the right the corrected one: Again half an hour later I made everything symmetrical again. you can see that I sanded right through the plastic. The color difference makes it easy to check for symmetry: After an hour and a half's adventure the result is seen below. Still not the same as the legacy Hornet but I think much better. The radius is consistent and the top of the spine curved: next step is to restore the panel lines!
  6. 1 point
    1/32 Hasegawa kits HGW rivet set, wet transfers Barracuda wheels Eagle Cals #104 Aires wheel bay, engine, gun barrels Avionix cockpit All colours MRP
  7. 1 point
    Gazzas

    Warplanes redone as racers

    Hi everyone, I know there have been P-51's, Spitfires, and P-63's used and painted as racing planes. Anyone know of others? Pix appreciated! Thanks! Gaz
  8. 1 point
    Koralik

    F4U-1A Corsair Tamiya 1:32

    This time model from WW II times, I generally avoid model aircraft with a propeller. I definitely prefer modern aviation. However, from time to time I make a model for someone to order. I present to you such a model F4U-1A Corsair model from the Tamiya skal scale 1:32 This is one of the best models I've built, all the elements fit together without a problem. Model made straight from the box with one addition from yahoo. I invite you to watch, I hope that the model looks good.
  9. 1 point
    sandbagger

    'Skeletal' Fokker D.VII

    Hi all, I thought you might like to see my 18th 1:32 scale build - the German Fokker D.VII fighter. The major airframe components are 3D printed from the ‘Shapeways’ web site. The airframe structural components were designed by ‘Aviattic’ and engine parts by ‘Bob Monroe’. Other components for the model were ‘donated’ from the ‘Wingnut Wing’ kit of the Fokker D.VII (OAW built) (Kit No: 32030). This model, with associated figures, will eventually be part of a dual Fokker D.VII display. I know I don't often reply to your generous comments, but rest assured they are very much appreciated, Mike The basic list of modifications and additions to the model are as follows: ‘Taurus Models’ engine intake manifold lock rings (3211), ‘Taurus Models’ engine fuel priming cups (3219), ‘Taurus Models’ engine complete timing gear - conical valve springs (3209), ‘Eduard’ Swordfish hinge and panel set (32204), ‘RB Productions’ British wire terminals (RB-P32013). Spark plugs. Cylinder fuel primers. Valve springs. Ignition lead support tubes. Gun synchronization mechanism. Ignition leads. Oil reservoir sight glass. Hydraulic pipes. Intake manifold lock rings. Sump oil tube. ‘Flugzeugwerke’ (Bob Monroe) (printed by ‘Shapeways’) Mercedes D.III Oil Pump, Mercedes D.IIIa Cylinders (hollow), Mercedes D.IIIa Crankcase and engine block, German Aircraft Magnetos, Mercedes Cylinder clamps, ‘Aviattic’ (printed by ‘Shapeways’) Rear fuselage frame. Tail plane. Rudder. Elevator. Ailerons. Fin. Upper wing (3 sections) (scratch bracing tapes, leading edge ‘saw tooth’ fairings). Lower wing (two sections) (scratch bracing tapes, leading edge ‘saw tooth’ fairings). Tail skid (with scratch made suspension cables and springs). Wings leading edge ‘stacking pads’. Rear fuselage decking panel. Cockpit padded surround. ‘Aviattic’ Fokker seat. Undercarriage assembly – scratch built including brass struts. Fuel, oil and coolant pipes, Engine controls – throttle, magneto, alternator, spark advance, hand throttle. ‘REXx exhaust. ‘Proper Plane’ Heine propeller (wood). ‘GasPatch’ Spandau machine guns. Gun installations. Cockpit control cables – rudder, ailerons and elevator. Cockpit cross bracing lines. Gun firing cables. Gun synchronization mechanism. Engine controls. Instrument leads/cables. Fuel pressure pump pipe. Seat harness. Rigging points. External flight control lines. ‘Steve Robson’ handmade wheels and tyres. Photo-etch radiator. Radiator shutter and control cable/pulley. All internal cross bracing cables. Aileron control cables with associated pulleys. As usual I've created a downloadable build log in Adobe PDF format, for those who might want to refer to it for reference or build details. It contains full step by step descriptions of the model build, its modifications/changes and is also supported with illustrations and photographs. If viewed in Adobe Reader, each build log has book marked chapters/headings for easier navigation through the log. My model website has the gallery page, so to view any model, go to the gallery and select it. If it has a PDF build log, it will be available to download using the 'PDF' icon on that models photo's page. For any photograph, just click the photo to enlarge or reduce the viewing size. http://igavh2.xara.hosting
  10. 1 point
    Future releases, all for the new tool Italeri/Revell IIIE Pantera / COAM conversion Mirage 5P/P3/P4/BA/MA/ELKAN conversion Mirage 5F/Dagger/Nesher/ROSE III conversion  Mirage 50EV/50M conversion Mirage 50C/PA2/PA3 conversion
  11. 1 point
    DeanKB

    WINGNUT WINGS LANCASTER!!!!!!!!!

    Whereas the rest of us are happy to build any old rubbish? You've proclaimed Tamiya kits as basically needing a lot of work & you've forecast, with confidence, that all existing kits will be obsolete once WNW's Lanc sees the light of day - on the back of mainly photos of an unpainted test shot - to a forum of modellers who invest lots of time & effort building these very same "obsolete" kits. You may wish to work on your bedside manner.
  12. 1 point
    thierry laurent

    "Air a cutie" mystery

    Hello Gents, I just received the very nice Zotz decals for the Airacobra. I was particularly interested in the terrific "Air a Cutie" nose art. Unfortunately, some research activities brang a lot of conflicting info about this plane. I believe that only one plane was named "Air a Cutie". Nose art modification was quite common but I seriously doubt such a large and complicated nose art was painted on two different planes (even in case of plane change by a pilot). Accordingly, I think that the plane was modified along her life. My research seems to demonstrate that the plane 41-28267 had at least two markings periods for the 1942-1943 timeframe: - first period: port side nose art with the right arm up, stars without bar, OD tail with white fin top, no external MLG doors and 12 exhausts stacks - second period: port side nose art modified (right arm down), stars with bars, full white tail & wing front edge and 6 exhausts stacks (MLG doors?) Unfortunately, I've only found one good wartime picture of "Air a cutie" (the one in the "in action" book). Does anybody know other pictures of this plane? I guess they should exist as Zotz produces decals for the 2nd period whereas the aforementioned picture corresponds to the 1st one. If my memory's right someone mentioned a 8th FG group book many moons ago? Conflicting info emerge regarding the plane type: P-39D or P-400 (with a 20mm nose gun)? Re-engined or not? This plane was not camo painted as were normally the P-400s used in New Guinea (at least in 1942). However, the picture shows the 12 exhausts stacks that were typical of P-400s. Moreover, I also think that the plane had the 20mm gun and the small hub NLG wheel. Hence, is it a P-400 that has been overhauled and re-equiped with a P-39D type engine? This is possible and would explain the late six exhausts stacks but in this case why was the plane initially re-painted in plain OD? Or is it a plain OD P-39D that has been re-equiped with a P-400 engine? This is possible but as Zotz only shows six exhausts on this plane, this is neither logical or would imply it has been again re-engined later but with a six exhausts stacks P-39D engine (if I did not inverted the two time periods...)! Moreover, this would mean that either I misidentify the gun muzzle type or that the 37mm gun has been replaced as well! The 8th FG surely demonstrated that necessity is the mother of invention as they even rebuilt planes from wrecks. This may explain the seemingly odd features combination. Does anybody have additional information regarding this intriguing plane?
  13. 1 point
    I have been in touch with Kevin Bricknell and Noel Furber, both ex Mirage pilots that have been involved with previous projects of mine. They both have had a ride in the buggy and sent me pictures of the event. First up is a small video of Brick in the buggy. To me, this stuff is absolute gold and preserves the memory. click on the pic below to view. I moulded the first parts of the buggy today. This is my first draft of the resin parts so that I can check how they all fit together and see if it is going to work as a kit or not. First up was the boxing up of each part using lego like pieces. I constructed the casting blocks that the parts sit on using modelling clay. I vacuum degas my silicone to ensure that it is bubble free. Whilst it is quite possible to pour the silicone moulds without degassing, if you are going to pressure cure the resin using these moulds then you will need to degas to ensure the highest possible quality. Parts demoulded! the second best part. Examining fresh resin (the best part if it goes according to plan). Very pleased with the outcome. A test fit of the parts. These are the products that I have used. I have added a grey pigment to the resin as it looks alot better than its natural cream colour.
  14. 1 point
    A huge shout out to David W. Aungst, who I happened to see creating F-14 tail decals for a project of his. One of his F-14's carried the earlier Strike Test airplane-swoosh marking. I asked for a few and he printed them up since this Prowler carried the same marking around the same timeframe. We have been exchanging emails on how best to put them down since they are delicate and printed on white backing. Following his directions they went down tonight with little fuss. A light brushed on coat of Future and they look terrific. One curled up a little bit (I was warned), one of the hotter decal setting solutions melted the port marking a tad, but not enough for me to cry about. The results below....Thanks again David!! Cheers Collin
  15. 1 point
    Lee in Texas

    Warplanes redone as racers

    Yak-11 trainer. First as "Perestroika" The same plane, later called "Czech Mate" Another Yak-11, "Mr. Awesome" It later got a T-33 tail
  16. 1 point
    Lee in Texas

    Warplanes redone as racers

    Corsairs Super Corsair. Originally built with an R-2800. Got an R-4360 for racing. Crashed F2G
  17. 1 point
    Lee in Texas

    Warplanes redone as racers

    Hawker Sea Fury Dreadnaught, with a 4360 Critical Mass, returning to stock configuration September Fury
  18. 1 point
    Right - off to grab a small glass of vino - then back to looking at B-24 wings... Iain
  19. 1 point
    The drop tanks would be a great idea, and maybe some 108 gallon paper tanks. Other replacement items that would make a big difference would be the landing gear covers, and the inner clamshell doors, a Schick-Johnson seat, SCR-695 set, corrected cockpit floor and rudder pedals, K-14 gunsight. The Airscale instrument panel is brilliant so that is taken care of, but the rest of the cockpit could use some help, although that could get complicated deciding on which block number/time period to do. All that being said, you are already covering the most important and difficult areas of concern with the kit; the nose contour and the wheel well and wing spar. You've also done the exhaust and shroud which will be a great improvement. The gear legs are the other major problem, but that would have to be in metal of some sort. From the long list of items above I think the gear doors and clamshell doors, Schick-Johnson seat and maybe the gunsight might be good items to consider. The rest could be taken care of with some modelling and scratch building. Thank you so much for paying some attention to this kit! It really is miles ahead of the Trumpeter version even though the molds are approaching 50 years old. I've been slowly struggling with one, but your parts will make the next one so much easier and faster. And there will be another one started because of that. Richard
  20. 1 point
    Out2gtcha

    Chattanooga 2019 convention

    With the wedding approaching fast, I will have to take a pass on this years NATs. Texas next year, is nearly as far (both roughly 900 miles for me) as Tennessee is and will likely have to miss that one too, as we are planning a major vacation next year.
  21. 1 point
    Hello Miloslav, Wow, gorgeous, You really nailed it. Thanks for using our decals. Cheers, Jerry
  22. 1 point
    ...or so I thought I was almost ready for paint. The plastic HUD as supplied by Revell was quite a thorn in the eye, based on which I decided last week to buy the Eduard cockpit set in photo etch for the Trumpeter model. I really did not want to wait for the Revell one to come out, I wanted to start painting soon. Wanting the HUD most I thought that all extra panels that would fit would be a bonus. Turns out that all parts fit this super bug quite well. So that added another 20 or so parts to my project. Before adding the PE I finished work on the tail surfaces. I already read elsewhere that they do not fit well, I wanted to reduce the gaps before I would mount them to the fuselage. The trick I used was to put some Milliput onto the glue surface of the tails: then cover the surface by a piece of sandwich plastic foil: then press the tail into its gap: when the tail was removed, the imprint of the fuselage was in the putty: after drying I could remove the foil and sand the excess material flush with the tail: The gap between tail and fuselage is much smaller now: I also closed the gap between fuselage and stabilizers by adding PS strip: Next step: The pilot has his arms added and fitted to the position of the stick and throttle. Stick and throttle have been glued to the hands and will not contact the cockpit anymore, but this will be invisible: Pilot nearly ready for paint, except the addition of the PE shoulder and waist straps: The PE set that I bought had some parts I did not expect to find, turns out that the mesh on the turtle deck is also in there. Even nicer is that it fits quite well on the Revell model. Also the cockpit sidewalls fit well, camouflaging the seam between the upper and lower fuselage: And now I am really ready for primer!
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    My advice is to come to New Zealand instead. Almost no bitey stingy things here.
  25. 1 point
    Hi DonH and 1to1scale, defeat is not what I am risking anymore I think. After having completed the assembly of the fuselage I think that most other things will be easier. Especially now that I have a solution for the landing gear see below. First I still had to mount the foldable wings. I already knew that I would have to cut the lip on the outside wing part of the hinge, but after glueing the wing halves together I concluded that the lip is also too thick to fit inside the outer wing: not so nice Revell.... after having sanded the lip thinner, it fit into the slot: having glued the parts together, top and bottom seam are very ok: both wings attached, on with the moving surfaces! the hinge cover, slats and flap covers fit quite well looking from above: but the slats will make far too large an angle if you mount them without gaps. So I had to leave a rather large gap to make the angle work. this will need to be filled: though I will mount the flaps after painting, I clamped them temporarily to see how it goes together. at least this fits! Another possible headache was resolved with the modification of the landing gear. Below to the right the original pieces, they require a lot of cleaning up. However the hinge mechanism could be separated quite easily in order to put them in the fully extended position, assembled to the left bottom. Also the nose landing gear can be easily extended:
  26. 1 point
    Jack

    Catch 22 series (2019)

    Did you ever see the original feature with Alan Arkin, Art Garfunkel et al? Awesome B25 scenes and such, haven't seen the HBO release yet.....
  27. 1 point
    got some work done on the seams, all of them on the assembly so far have been dealt with: [ and on the bottom side of the fuselage, not too bad: and I have also assembled all the moving surfaces of the wings: then continued dry fitting some cockpit parts. the seat was just assembled to compare with the resin version from Aires: and as others have already found out, the canopy does not fit due to the seat sitting 2 mm too high: with the new seat I also need to do something, but the conflict is smaller: the new seat itself fits without any further adjustments: I added a Tamiya F-16 pilot in the seat, everything fits almost without any cutting or sanding:
  28. 1 point
    Out2gtcha

    Mclaren MP4-23 1/12

    Very cool. Looks more like a small spaceship.
  29. 1 point
    I haven’t checked in for a while, Craig. There are some serious skills on show here and your metal work is exquisite. I really enjoyed catching up. Tom
  30. 1 point
    Fanes

    Bf 109F-4/Trop 8./JG27 - finished

    After long thoughts and a lot of doubts the mottling of the wings and the fuselage was a lot of fun. Since there's no picture showing the complete wings or the right hand side of the fuselage - I went with a quite linear mottling (like on a He 219) which is appearant on one picture (at least I guess so). Pulling the otehr masks revealed some more flaws which will be reworked in the next days. Enjoy: So the next steps are: - repairs on the insignia - the RLM76 rectangle behind the swastika - getting some variation into the bigger RLM80 blotches - painting the fuel filler port - wheatering (first time salt fading!) So long Joachim
  31. 1 point
    hi gents, indeed I am making good use of the fora so far, the trick here really is dry fitting to make sure that you are not going to be surprised when parts are glued. After all had dried I could finally mount the fuselage top and nose, this time with no stress in the plastic: around I just need to fill small gaps: the elevator connection is really sticking out from the fuselage too much, need to sand that down still: also at the cockpit things align pretty much ok: I read some things about the nose, it should have a constant radius in the side view, Revell has made a bit of a kink in it. With sanding sticks I have tried to make the radius more constant: before glueing the wings together I decided to add the outer wings an see how things fit: Also here is seems that the hinge mechanism is 2 mm too long, causing a gap: also the lid on the hinge does not fit without taking away material, the manual does not mention it: so out comes the cutters: now it starts to fit better, I need to take 2 mm off of the outside hinge lip:
  32. 1 point
    MikeMaben

    Bf 109F-4/Trop 8./JG27 - finished

    We're sorry , that's simply not allowed here .
  33. 1 point
    williamj

    RCAF SPITFIRES.. Mk XIVe..duel build.

    Thanks so much for following along guys..I'm back for a few days and am working on finishing at least one of them.Off to the coast in 10 days. Worked up a RCAF pilot last eve.by Mike Good..He is my favorite figure artist,have attempted a few myself in the past and cant even get close. Hope to post more shortly. Warm regards.Bill
  34. 1 point
    Craig, Really some fantastic metalwork on the "bathtub --- not to mention ingeneous planning! You have your own "think tank" going on in your head! "Your" bathtub photos, with the fuselage structure in the background are looking like they came out of a manual or from the on-line photos of the "Swoose" replica bathtub --- except yours are sharper and clearer! The cushion sculping came out fine; I'd tone down the wash in the creases and buttons just a tad. Looks a little to high contast. Might just be to much shine. Just my taste, though. Bottom line is it looks like a cushion and not a "slab." Keep it up, Craig. That light at the end of the tunnel gets closer and closer. Once you get her finished, everyone who hasn't followed along here is going to be asking who put out the B-17C kit and where can I order one! Terry
  35. 1 point
    Very nice work but at the same time with all that light guage metal, you wouldn't want to be up in one of those if someone was cross with you and trying to do something about it.
  36. 1 point
    Bloody hell.
  37. 1 point
    Amazing, Craig! Just loving this build. Gaz
  38. 1 point
    hi mark, indeed it seems that this kit has the 1 mm issue over the whole length of the body, and not just the engine compartment. I will show photo's later but they confirm your statement. after having built up the intake duct it is time to mount the bottom plate. in order to fit it, the inner structure needs to be cut through, otherwise the hinges of the wheel doors on the wheel bay will foul! the front plate of the bottom needs to go in between the intake plates. the picture below shows why this is so difficult to align afterwards: by aligning the intake walls to the rest of the structure first, I managed to solve this fit issue. after the mounting of the wheel bays the assembly looks like this. by sliding the bottom plate from the aircraft's back to front I managed to maneuver the plate in between the hinges. notice how the intake insides do not connect to the bottom plate yet. it requires some stress and glue to align them: between the wheel wells all fits well: now everything must be glued. the clamps look more dramatic than it is, just a little force needed to be applied. glue everything from the back to the front: an hour later and everything is fixed, now the intakes can be clamped and glued against the bottom plate:
  39. 1 point
    Last week I managed to do some things again. I checked some of the outer panels without the wheel bays built up. It turns out that everything fits quite well without any of the internal parts causing conflicts (of course after having taken 0.5 mm off of the tops of the bulkheads as well as the ECS internals on top of the engine). So for those who want to build this model with the wheels up, you might as well leave all the wheel bay parts out. After the base coat I spayed the intakes and the parts of the wheel bays white, followed by a Flory Models grime wash. Because I had been warned already about the bulkhead sticking out from the nose wheel bay, possibly conflicting with the canopy, I tried to dry fit the parts. As it turns out, if you sand all parts square and true, and shave just a bit off the diagonal sides of the bulkhead, everything fits again. the same goed for the air intakes: I fitted everything up front and sanded the glue surfaces square and I was pretty much okay. After some alu on the first fan blades and some gunmetal on the exhaust, I was ready to assemble the lot together. The part with the last fan blades needed some sanding of the outer surfaces, otherwise they would not with into their slots. other than that, the intake tunnel came together without gaps. The hole pattern in the intakes have been completely filled and sanded, I am thinking about making a decal to replicate this. The whole pattern was in the wrong orientation anyway. The grey separation has been taped off here, I needed some photo's to figure it out since Revell does not give any guidance here. intake tunnel right before close up: engines dry brushed with alu: and with some clamps and glue the intake tunnel is assembled, without gaps!
  40. 1 point
    thanks for the encouragement! Just trying to dry-fit as much as I can to prevent issues later. made some progress, mounted the insides of the intakes because I wanted them definitely flat and aligned and seemless. This comes at a price though, the bottom panel of the hull will not be able to be mounted anymore. I will show later that I took a piece off to make everything fit again. Strangely the manual says nothing about the diagonal color separation between the intake's white and the grey at the very beginning of the intake tunnel. luckily there is plenty of photo reference material. not sure yet how I will restore the very fine mesh in this panel... aligned the intake panels and filled the gap: then Tamiya primer in airbrush: here is the lower panel that I separated. Better to repair this seam than in the intake panels: I was already warned that all parts need clean up. The afterburner ring is not this kit's finest piece. the 2 mounting tabs must be shortened considerably else the engine halves won't fit together: all parts for the lower hull in primer: and specifically for DonH: right before priming I checked the camel hump with the canopy. I did not take so much off the spine in that area, I think I will solve this difference in some light sanding in the canopy: Some panel lines and rivets restored, not done yet: \ I opened also the hexagonal intake ducts and checked if the ECS exhaust panels was properly lined up: I am coming to the conclusion that I will accept this hump! Seems that the square shape of the hump is not so much a problem right behind the cockpit, but the problem is where it becomes too angular in the panel behind it.
  41. 1 point
    Craig, Quoting you from Post #1, 12/22/14 --- "turn it into something resembling a D." The aft fuselage is the most defining characteristic of the C/D and your "taped together, in the rough" photos bear out that you have gone beyond simply "resembling!" I certainly hope your arm was long enough to reach back and give yourself a pat on the back! Good thing you've taken photos from the beginning. Once you've skinned her into a gleaming B-17C, no one will believe the meld of different materials you brought together to achieve the end result. You've plainly mastered utilizing acrylic to fabricate parts as well as vacuforming it. Compared to the frailty of other vacuform mediums, acrylic does offer substantial solidity and workability. I can only imagine the nightmare of attempting to join the tailcone halves pulled from the usual materials. Judging from how nicely the tailcone is polishing out, the tail lights will certainly not be "lost" in distortion. Keep astounding us --- MAESTRO! Terry
  42. 1 point
    Wow Craig! This is such an amazing build and impressive scratch building of the highest order. Best of all, when she's done, you'll have something that no one else will have with a "C" model. Damn that is unbelievable cool. Cheers, Wolf
  43. 1 point
    My word - very impressive Craig I have an allergy to transparencies so I get scared watching what you are doing that said. you are making it look easy so maybe I need to man up when the time comes I love every minute of this build.. Peter
  44. 1 point
    Craig, Nosepiece, cockpit windshield/windows/dome, waist windows and tailcone; each presented their own unique challenge. You took a pragmatic approach with each hurdle and threw in a whole lot of determination. Even in their "rough" stages, your tenacity yielded some mighty fine results. You mentioned you "dreaded" the ever problematic tranparencies, but I think it's safe to say you are over the hump. Once refined and polished, your "clear" parts --- usually the bane of B-17 models --- are really going to be one of the numerous standout features of your C. Great work! Terry
  45. 1 point
    Piprm

    I/32nd I.D Vacform RAAF Canberra B.20

    Cockpit : (continued) We focus now on the Canopy Frame - Brace (Bar) ... As it can be clearly seen from the outside though the Canopy Bubble, I thought I'd knock one up... First a study of the Bar in Question.... It is not an easy part to see , So I've had to collate a few images to get the full picture... A revelation... my partition/wall behind pilots ejection seat is too high... Now to the building of the master part... I thought i'd go with copper... One thing I did find with mucking around with ejection partition wall- heights etc is the Ejection Angles... Modelling does reveal a few things behind designs sometimes. In this case, ejection seat escape trajectory angles. What I thought initially, is that both front and rear ejections are of the same angle. But working over time on key areas of the cockpit ( floor, bracing, walls, fuselage stations etc) and the interconnections with each other... showed me different angles to the ejection seat walls. And this was done for a good reason - I believe... Below is my conclusion... The result of these angles is that the Pilot and Navigators ejection trajectories, don't come together and bump about in the jet steam! I think it's designed for wider separation of trajectories... Happy 2019 Pip
  46. 1 point
    Out2gtcha

    Revell 1/16 Hawaiian Funny car build.

    Great stuff , I remember these 1/16 kits and this kit in particular. Will be nice to see this one come together.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Eli Raphael

    "Air a cutie" mystery

    some pics used on my decal:
  49. 1 point
    AirACutter

    "Air a cutie" mystery

    New publication about Air A Cutie coming soon!!! It will answer following questions: - correct version? - number of aircrafts named Air A Cutie? - comouflage and marking variants? Also will contain: - 4 available photographs with comments, - 3 camouflage schemes for all marking versions, - modeller´s section with decal reviews in 1/72 and 1/48 scale. Order it now for free in pdf-format here: airacut@gmail.com
  50. 1 point
    didiumus

    "Air a cutie" mystery

    Jeff, Great Link. Thierry, I think there were more than one Air-A-Cuties. I would recommend a shout out to Steven Eisenmann over on Hyperscale on the "Plane Talking" forum - he is a regular there, and, if I am not mistaken - he helped do the research on the decal sheet you are holding in your hands... HTH Scott Gentry
×
×
  • Create New...