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my last kit, enjoy :

Sales time a my LHS. An average 25€ less on the normal price for each kit.

This is looking good - sounds like they are gonna have some French pilot figures available too:

Thanks Rick It is time for the next update: decals and masks are ready: Well, the aviation base "Chaika" logo is also done: Some weathering over engine's cowlings : And the two rotors: 1.Plastic one: 2. The resin one: Cheers friends

A bit premature perhaps, but I felt like playing with decals, so added the bottom meatballs. I'll be using masks topside though.

Lately I had down time at work, sitting as a stand by airline pilot waiting to get a call to go fly, to fill the hours I was fooling around with my 12” iPad Pro, an Apple Pencil and a painting program called Procreate. As usual the complete write up is HERE. I was going for a cell shaded look and not a highly detailed paining. I was fiddling around wth Procreate not trying to create a master piece. Thought the result was worth sharing tho… Bonus video of the time lapse feature in Procreate…

Fellas, Started back up on this. Had to scratch build the operators stations in the back as you can see quite a bit. Still have a little bit more to do. Andy

my last built , enjoy :

While I haven't built the Special Hobby kit, I have built (and reviewed) the Kitty Hawk kit, and it's a tough build. The nose panels especially are a challenge, but I have to say I'm pleased with how it turned out: You can check out my build thread for all the gory details: Note that the Revell kit is a re-boxing of the Special Hobby kit. Kev

This arrived today, and is a kit that I've wanted for a very long time, but never seemed to get around to purchasing. Through a deal with a fellow LSP guy (thanks a ton, Mike), I've now finally got one. The kit also included some nice Eduard stuff, so I'm already ahead of the curve there.

Thanks from a fellow B-ri! Ok this one is down to crunch time boys. Ive got exactly 1 week and NO days to finish this thing off. I have a semi-accurate "left to-do" list going on the Extra, but I know for sure I probably left some things off, and there is not a whole lot crossed off the list: - Sand gouge in starboard wing smooth - Blue touchups for starboard gauge? - Mask off and shoot aluminum paint on forward edge wing-tip - Build wing tip attitude indicators - Finish sand and paint wing tip indicators - Fix red forward stripes - Red touchups - Assemble/finish prop - White touchups - Color sand finished scheme prior to gloss coat - Gloss clear - Decals - Final gloss clear coat - paint inner cockpit opening liner black - Fix/re - paint exhaust w/foil area - finish wheels - attach rudder - Paint tail wheel - make custom tail wheel assembly - paint tail wheel assembly - make custom rudder push rods w/tie rod ends - polish canopy inside and out - add handle to inside of canopy - make and attach canopy restraint strap - mount wheels and wheel pants - Glue on aileron counter balancers - Glue on ailerons - Glue on wing tip attitude indicators. - Spine antenna? - Belly antenna? I know I keep posting updates w/no pics in them, but every time I get down to the bench to hit this thing hard, I get into work mode and dont seem to have time to take pics. I did manage to snap a pic of the almost assembled (at the time, its now fully glued together) prop using my PropMaster prop jig: I know its not much, but Im in full flank speed ahead mode! Im back on the little Extra today, and have now finished the blue touch-ups (for as much as they will ever be finished) and have nearly finished the red, only needing to finish fixing the red stripes on the fuselage. Then its onto the white touch-ups, then gloss. Once the gloss/decals/gloss is down, I can concentrate on assembly. Cheers!

Wait... Milton Bradley makes parts for the SL500?? Gaz

So all the main components are together and I'm almost ready to start the paintwork. I had to change my plan for this kit though. I had always envisaged keeping the engine cowling panels removable as you can with this kit, but after a very frustrating afternoon trying to make them fit i had to admit defeat and glue them in place and so loose all of that fab engine detail. Its not that the fit of the panels was bad it was that they weren't quite good enough and to make them fit precisely you had to maintain some pressure on the panels. I would probably always display this kit with the panels on so in the end the decision wasn't hard and lets face it we all have loads of models we lavished time and hard work on intricate internal detail which are very important to get right at the time but when the kit is finished you can hardly see the fruits of your labours if at all.....HK B17 for example! As you can see the nose is now yellow and I'm preparing to mask the chequers...should be fun! Cheers Matt

Now onto the yellow. I masked up and painted the number 7, maybe a touch too thick but it'll do. I also thought while at it, why not try to paint the national insignia. Not too shabby, still need to do the other side of the fuselage and put the black in the middle. These will look better than decals when painted over with thin black I think.

OK I have a very poor showing with completed WIP's, but this kit is very good, I wanted to share some info and pics as I build it. Here are some shots of the engine mid stream in construction. TA-152 Engine by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr TA-152 Engine by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr TA-152 Engine by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr

This time the model about which I can not write that it is made straight from the box. This is the F-16CG model from academy with the IsraCast set full of conversion kit for the F-16A. Israeli Air Force. The model has armament probably unheard of in real conditions, but that was the wish of the person for whom I made this model. The IsraCast set is very demanding and forces many model revisions around the vertical stabilizer.

This has been bugging me..have to point it out(if it hasn't) There is an AM resin spinner cap for this kit to correct the WNW's part.not mentioning who makes it. For those who have purchased it,or are thinking about picking one up..you don't need it..WNW got the diameter and shape right the first time. Now I feel better. Cheers,Bill. kit matches the photo well

Got it - thanks! Ok, Kevin read your article on your excellent build - looks like if you left out the internals (engine, etc.) the kit would be an ok build? But then, why pay for them I would build it closed up anyway....

#71, April/May 2017: http://shop.afvmodeller.com/customer/product.php?productid=18720 Kev

Indeed, same as the previous P-47 rebox from Ed. Usually priced around 85/90€ over here, and got it for +/- 60€, which is fine to me. The boxart print is nice, as well as the metal plate, but this last item could have been left aside to lower the price. Or at least Ed could have made two version of the package, with or without.

Nothing to do with wood panels but the engine in the ZM kit is fantastic, shown here mid production and unpainted. TA-152 Engine by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr TA-152 Engine by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr TA-152 Engine by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr

Back with some decal work and finishing progress. Article HERE! On to the goodies the photos…. Thanks as always for checking in!

For an "unbuildable" kit (from what I have heard), it looks pretty all right to me.

Crap, looking at the very first pic in this thread, I just noticed that I forgot to add the pitot tube to that list too....................

drool....

As I just can't find anything else more to do on Spatz and reached a point of diminishing returns should I try, it's done - PHEW! First model finished in two years. This was supposed to be a simple mojo enhancer as Tamiya builds usually are, but it ended up being a epic super-detailing build, particularly in regard to the engine. I added over 70+ individual pieces to the engine - just lost count in the end. So, at least I have something for Model Expo next year finished! 20180725_133654[4017] by Adam Dormer, on Flickr 20180725_133531[4018] by Adam Dormer, on Flickr 20180725_133438[4019] by Adam Dormer, on Flickr 20180725_133232[4021] by Adam Dormer, on Flickr 20180725_133156[4022] by Adam Dormer, on Flickr 20180725_133132[4023] by Adam Dormer, on Flickr

Looking real good. If I keep looking at stuff like this, I'm going to end up dragging out one of my own WWI kits.

MRP #99 for the US navy white and MRP#98 for the Light gull Grey Spent a few hours this week-end to paint some touch ups like painting the DECM antennas white and make the walkways [img=] As usual I painted them with a texture rust oleum paint, then sprayed MRP#100 for dark gull grey and made some touch up with smoke and lighter gull grey (MRP-98) The trick with this textured product is to refrain to cover the surface completely, just a bit of texture is enough even if the paint from the can remains transparent. Otherwise the coat is way too thick. The second trick is to make sure you cover the model completely, this is going everywhere. Summer break now and I'll be back in Septembre with the finishing touches on the model Have a great time gents

Not mine Bill , but I did build a couple of those back in my childhood tho. Don't worry , Tamiya's gonna drop a P-51B on us next year

Alright, camo is on. I basically spent all evening painting. Still a couple of bits to put on, but next up is yellow for the rudder, cowl and number 7, which I think I will have to mask up.

hello Time for an update. I haven't been able to bring much consistent update due to some time lost sorting out landing gear size issues. I'll tell more about this later on, i now need replacement wheels to move forward on this. As I'm waiting for my wheels, I've been working on the GBU-12's and exhausts. These are Eduard Brassin GBU's with navy coating added, made of MrSurfacer 500. My trusty crapy Ikea flat brush was perfect to work the texturing with lacquer thinner. I've been adding some wiring and RBF tags, thanks to one of our kind members advice ( still need one more RBF and pin, though ) And work on the exhaust. Daco shows an excellent picture of a VF-103 Tomcat in the end of its service, perfect match with my topic. No Black and White look but rather some sort of grimey grey green with a few petals having some sort of sandy hue. A good opportunity to have a bit of unusual. and after a fine brush work with oil paint and AK washes: best regards ! Fanch

Yeah, I reckon that's the best approach. The main fuselage and wing panels actually fit OK, but the nose is definitely a challenge. Leaving out whatever internals you can would certainly help, and that's what I would do if I were to build another one. Kev

...Or was the beginning in 1935 when Japan attacked China. Several of those Golden Era aircraft ended up seeing action there.

Good comments! Thanks guys - maybe leaning towards Revell/Special Hobby now.... Kevin - what issue of Air Modeller was your build in? Best Paul

Very nice!

Very nice result!

C'est bon!

Hi Brad, IMHO you can even in time to correct in this way: 1. overspray the dark base on seven 7 and on Balkenkreuz as seen in the picture; 2. repositioning the stencil ad spray the correct 7 and kreuz; 3. repeat the n. 1 operation to simulate the darkening operation. Ciao Filippo

Mike, I have not done that actually but will keep that in mind for these older kits - good idea and thanks for the reminder! Chris

It's too hot to do much at the moment: like 1976 but with a sixty year old's body and not the svelte nautical 18 yr old who was full of energy. I like the idea of the cold beverage; that bit works, like my drinking arm. Tony

Don, Sorry to hear you've had some difficulties. Rigging seems hard, but once you settle the problem of keeping the model in place and not having to touch the wings with your hands, it gets a bit easier. For me, the most essential tools for rigging are: 1. A biplane jig 2. A lot of very bright light, some from the backside of the model 3. Good magnification. The greatest bonus of rigging a biplane model is some added strength which is usually needed just to keep the upper wing from detaching during casual handling. Gaz

I finally put some time into the build, progress has been slow. I did manage to paint, clear, decal, clear, wash and dullcoat the build. This is kinda a 10 footer, there's overspray of all three colors, overspray inside the windscreen, cracked fuselage seam... i did try some rigging...don't know how you guys do it, very unsuccessful results for me. I had to go back and try to repair some work i did trying to rig , broke two of the struts. This almost ended up with folded wings, if you know what i mean....this one isn't getting rigged, also found there are control cables to the horizontal stabs and rudder. Yippee. At least i haven't lost any parts, yet. I have most all subassemblies done, have to dullcoat them then assemble. I'm going to have the gun stowed, i don't want to clutter up the sleek lines of the swordfish with a gun sticking out. Some pics of where it sits, now. I should be able to finish the build this week. Don

Not another P-51, why?? There so many out there now.

Hong Kong Models apparently have a P-51B/C in development...

Few updates and where I'm at. Weekend goal was to get it ready for paint. My first hurdle to jump was the salon window frame. The kit came with these "resin" frames that were way out of shape and not nearly long enough. My plan was to cut a ring out of a copper pipe fitting I had in the garage and then solder on wires and bend to fit. Well that didn't work out as planned. Even if the copper was bent correctly, it was over sized to fit into the notches of the window frame. Slightest bend, and the solder broke loose. Even pre-bending was a miserable failure. So I cleaned up the rings I made from copper and then just glued them directly onto the window. After the glue (Formula 560 for R/C aircraft canopies, a white glue that dries crystal clear) set up, I made frames out of Evergreen stock. In place All taped up and primed. Now I think it will have to sit a few weeks. I go on vacation next week and I have quite the laundry list to do around the house before leaving. If I can sneak some time down to the garage, I'm hoping to get the base color applied so it has time to cure while I'm away.

The main build is done...

Wash in progress.