Kirk

Truly epic!!

Hey Oliver - no offence intended. I'll take down the link. My mistake.

I saw this and was gobsmacked:

Certainly is. The crane model is being extensively modified to sit next the the H.34 in the diorama. I think it will be depicting an engine change.

I understand that Oliver is now looking for 1/32 mechanic figures for this diorama - which now includes a mobile crane. I came across these on ebay: 1/32 scale Figures - Pit crew set - Mechanic, Service crew - WASP | eBay , but (as I'm not connected with the listing in any way) have no idea if they are any good. Thoughts? PS/ If it is against etiquette to post links to ebay, please feel free to delete the link. It came from a search for 1:32 mechanic on a web search engine.

I'm with the guys above on this. I do understand that moderating is a hard, thankless yet essential task and I'm also aware that it is mostly performed in a text-based communication environment across time zones where simple misunderstandings are easily escalated into over-reactions and ultimatums. I have no idea what has gone on in this case, but it seems very, very sad if such a long-time and demonstrably well-mannered and helpful contributor might be made to feel unwelcome. There is a British-based modellers' forum on which the founder gradually developed a god-complex and as a result lost many, many members who freely contributed expertise, knowledge and the occasional modelling photos. Inevitably. they went elsewhere (or stayed away from the internet entirely) but the modelling community as a whole is all the poorer for it. Please, Oliver and Kevin, please find a way to reconcile and keep sharing this WONDERFUL content.

Thanks for the encouragement chaps. Not much progress (been installing an Eclisse pocket door at home) but I have had delivery of resin wheels and beautiful Airscale instrument panel, the latter of which prompted me to trace the original IP on to some thin styrene sheet, that I plan to use as a backing to the PE part. I'll endeavour to post some pictures later.

Generally across the airframe and control surfaces I've just used primer and filler primer with a little bit of putty wherever I encounter a big gap. There's more to do on this one as I think everyone knows; the real aircraft has mostly flush rivets that are barely visible. Someone (Red Dog?) pointed out that the kit tips of the stabilator are too rounded so I plan to cut them off and replace them at some point. For reasons that will become clear later, I needed to "return" the stabilator to the single piece item found in the real world, hence the brass rod. I didn't worry too much about getting the rod perpendicular to the centreline as I was more concerned with getting the anhedral looking right. The rods will be entirely covered with card and filler once I figure out how to add some brass pivots. The overly thick "bacon slicers" will most likely be replaced by card too. Incidentally, if anyone is thinking of copying what I did with the inner intake wall/bullet fairing, take more care than I did trimming the wheel well. There's far too much curvature on my version as compared with the real thing. The Airfix Sea Harrier (which includes a complete replacement for this section) goes too far the other way, modelling a deep concave that just isn't there in real life. I think the trick is to cut away more of the wheel well above the landing strut pivot point.

Thanks chaps. You're right about ambitious, Kev. Probably over-ambitious, but I have I've been inspired over the years by some modellers with greater skills than I have to attempt to reproduce details missing from the kit. The skill gap can lead to loss of mojo every so often - as happened with the intake area; I'm trying to recreate the webs between the AI doors and make them meet the bell mouth in such a way that I can glue in the forward sections after the bell mouth is fixed in place without it becoming an unpaintable gap fest. Not sure about "stunner" Martin, but I appreciate the encouragement. The good thing about the base Airfix kit is that the bits that are included are mostly the right shape and proportions, so provide a pretty good canvas. There are a few exceptions - the aft engine bay bulkhead/ water tank springs to mind, but that would have been pretty simple to replace had I done so before gluing it in place. I'm delighted that Airfix are re-issuing the 1:24 GR.1 and hope that some builds appear on LSP. I'm willing to bet that some will be completed before I finish tinkering with this cockpit... Kirk

Encouraged by some well-meaning chaps on another thread, I'm uploading a few pictures on the world's slowest model build. This started out intending to be an "Out of the Box" affair but (after the fuselage halves were joined) got side-tracked. Most of the pics above are ancient; please excuse the ropey quality. The cockpit detail is recent - mostly encouraged off the shelf of doom by the imminent arrival of the excellent Airscale panel (yet to be fitted; it will replace the kit part you see illustrated.) I'm also trying to make progress with the Auxiliary Intake (AI) doors - which are really hard to do if you want to make them moveable. That's all for now. I have some more pics on another device that I may upload if they show anything worthwhile. Thanks for looking in. Kirk

Received mine in the post today and it's absolutely top notch. Might actually have to open a thread on my GR.3 build now...

How is this one coming along? Nearly time to button up the fuselage?

Would that be the side consoles? (Fingers crossed)

Put me down for a set please Peter (Tried pm'ing but I think your inbox may be full).

Many thanks! Always love an AP document. I'm beginning to build up a clearer picture now, but still have a few questions: Did the wooden box with the outward supplies sit on top of the main box and run for about 3/4 of its length, with cables coming off the forward end? (this is what I think I see in the grainy Aeroguide pic). By "flip flop" model, do you mean that rear tow hook (ball?) folds down? I don't think this is on the Aeroguide pic as the power input appears to connect here. I take if that the castering wheel at the front can be lifted out of the way on that bracket with the 5 holes in, then lowered down for moving it around when not towed? Thanks again for your valuable insights.