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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/30/2019 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Gisbod

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    Thanks Ryan and Wingman I’ve made a start this morning and it’s going together surprisingly quickly. I’m getting as much sticking together done on the interior as I can before paint. As mentioned before, the plastic is fairly soft, the cockpit floor seems a teeny bit warped - but should squeeze into shape ok. I’ve done a test fit of the fuselage halves and it goes together - with the internals fitted - with some pressure. I’ll have to keep an eye on that as I progress. Not quite a snap build. That said, it’s a fun build already - it’s a lovely scale to work with ie it’s not too fiddly. Here are some progress pictures. A few sink holes to fill: The first part of the Airscale set fitted (kit detail sanded off) I’ll need to add some kind of seat cushion to replace the kit one moulded with straps. Thanks for looking, Guy
  2. 8 points
    So, the trip to Ysterplaat Air Force Base Museum was fun. Measuring the Mirage IIIR2Z tail fin confirmed my suspicion of the rudder issue. The angle of the rudder hinge line on the kit is not correct, and the bottom of the rudder is too high up. First the rudder actuator fairing was removed, as it needs correction too.Then I glued the rudder in place, making it easier to mark the new lines. The resized rudder was then cut out, and filling done with Tamiya putty. Here's a picture of the original tail fin, and the progress on the corrected one below it. Cheers
  3. 6 points
    ericg

    RAAF Bristol Bulldog

    Thanks for the replies guys. I had to do some fairly unsavoury things to the tube frame to get it to fit inside the fuselage but got it closed up in the end. Once this was complete, I have turned my attention to getting everything lined up and strengthened. A lot of these resin kits require extra work in this area. I have suffered the heartbreak of watching the wings of a very expensive and time consuming resin kit slowly droop over time and as a result am now super wary of these types of kits and take measures to prevent it from happening. I drilled a hole in the horizontal stabilisers and inserted brass rod. As can be seen, the part is thin enough that light easily passes through it. Visible is the rod and also two lighter holes that I have drilled which I will insert rod into that run across the fuselage to the opposite side stabiliser. I then drilled a hole through the fuselage to allow insertion of a brass rod into each lower wing x 2. This is in addition to the rod that is inside each wing already, done during manufacture of the kit. Due to to the reasonably rough nature of the kit, this will allow me to ‘pre bend’ the rod to get the dihedral right and will take the guess work out of it come time to glue the wings onto the fuselage. The tail was next. The kit parts have small pins on them that match up to corresponding holes. I find with resin kits that these are far too easy to break and for that reason, have also strengthened this part. I filled the original location of the holes in the kit due to them not matching up properly. I then drilled a hole in the tail and inserted a small brass rod, sharpened at one end that allowed me to press the part against the fuselage. This leaves the impression of the rod on the part and allows it to be drilled out in the precise location. The rod can then be removed and replaced with a longer one, making the overall assembly much stronger. You can see the sharpened rod and the small divot that it left. Next up was the engine. There is no positive way of locating the engine in the cowling in the kit. Due to complex way in which the cowling fits over the engine, I needed a way in which to be able to test fit the engine repeatedly and always have it located in the same position. I also like to have the props of my kits be able to be removable for transport and to be able to suffer the occasional ‘test flick’ from kids and sadly adults that should know better at the shows that I frequent. I needed to devise a method of solving a few problems at once. I glued a large diameter brass tube into the firewall, as close as I could get to the centre. This part of the kit is a little messy due to the way in which it has been manufactured. I then drilled out the engine to accept a medium sized diameter of brass tube. I then cut off the resin shaft on the propeller and drilled and glued into it a small diameter brass tube. This fits into the tube located in the engine, which fits into the tube located in the firewall. Problem solved. Strong and aligned.
  4. 6 points
    evening all thanks for saying such nice things Thanks Jay - always appreciate you helping me understand the airframe I have made the covers but will not attatch them until much later so they don't get squashed.. Now that is an offer I can't refuse Hawk! I will definately be in touch I added the hatches & panels to the underside and rivetted - there are a number of small fragile cup shaped air scoops to be added both sides of the main structure, but I will do that much later so I don't damage them.. I will also do the doors for the oil & radiator coolant exhausts at some point down the line.. ..with that done - I need to stop skinning and get the cockpit finished & installed as the scary bit will be building up and skinning the rear canopy area. I learned from the Spitfire not to race too far ahead with skinning as when you need to do major bodywork & filler it can be really difficult not to damage it and to work around it.. so remindingmyself where I was, I found a few assemblies to do... ..first the Hydraulic Hand Pump seen here.. ..nice turned handle, a tubular & hex section piston case and some cast bracketry.. ..I made up a kit of parts - the most complex of which was the piston housing - this was done from hex brass stock on my lathe... I have so much to learn using that tool... ..the parts were painted & assembled.. ..and a dry fit to check it all fits in.. ..next the Landing Gear Control Handle.. the black funny shaped thing seen here under the vertical trim wheel.. ..this was made from two chunks of square brass stock, shaped with a cutting disc in my dremel... ..not perfect, but near enough for me.. ..and painted and it's decal added.. ..lastly, the control column and mount.. ..I actually made the column ages ago and don't know what I did with the WIP pics, but suffice to say the pistol grip was shaped from a chunk of plastic and had various fittings & the trigger added, the shaft was turned in my dremel with it's subtle taper.. The torsion tube mount thing is again ground from a chunk of brass and is very simplified as all it needs to do is represent the shapes as it all sits under a cloth gaiter.. ..it is articulated, so you could go flying ..not painted it yet, but in situ for reference.. ..should get another good stint in tomorrow so may be back soon.. TTFN Peter
  5. 5 points
    I've been slowly progressing this build with a bit of weathering, using Flory's Dark Dirt applied over a couple of coats of MRP Super Clear gloss varnish (which isn't very gloss at all, but that suits me right now!). I like the flexibility of dark dirt, it dries very quickly (especially with some help from a jet of air from the airbrush) and I can easily take off just as much dirt as I wish, or re-apply and repeat where necessary: As can be seen from the lovely photo of the balbo shown elsewhere, these flying school Harvards were real workhorses and whilst no doubt carefully mechanically maintained it appears their cosmetic appearance was less important. I'm trying to get the Harvard and the Stieglitz finished asap because my fingers are itching to start a "Hawker double build" shortly that I'm rather excited about!
  6. 5 points
    themongoose

    Make the others jealous

    Only the shadow knows!
  7. 4 points
    Fanes

    Bf 109F-4/Trop 8./JG27 - finished

    Thanks a lot mates! Thanks for the hitn Max, I may give them a try if I encounter a problem with oils. The flat coat - AK matte and ultra matte (1:1) - went on last night. I'm not a 100% happy with their appearence. Despite using retarder and flow improver they didn't level well. A lacquer based flat coat from MRP is already in the basket. But overall I think it's okayish. More pictures will follow tonight if I get all the small bits and pieces done.
  8. 4 points
    Let us not rush to conclusions. (Let us not throw the baby away with the bath water :-) )That photo only shows what that particular aircraft looks like in that particular light. It is not a "rule of thumb" for all aircraft. All aircraft look "smooth" from a distance and you can see rivets when you get close. Next time you board your shiny immaculate airliner, have a look at the skin when you get close to it. I agree, very few manufacturers get rivets right. But I would not try to make a rule for all aircraft based on just one photo. I am also glad that GWH will not include rivets on their forthcoming 1/32 B-40B. Radu Here are more photos of P-40B.
  9. 4 points
    I forgot I did the plexi floor under the bombadier
  10. 4 points
    chugging along nicely, i have started using SMS paints and the spray really well lots of touch ups to do, but couldnt resist a group shot with my stowage
  11. 4 points
  12. 4 points
    Radio room Gotta fix the floor
  13. 4 points
    This is were I left off 5 1/2 years ago....Gonna get back to this...One of These Days This last pic is one from the old camera
  14. 3 points
    Gisbod

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    Hi all, I've just received a rather large box from a nice delivery man. The new Airfix Hellcat! I've already got the Airscale cockpit set (photo etch & decals) - which looks lovely and a set of HGW seatbelts (Mosquito - they looked closest to me in the absence of any Hellcat ones in this scale). The kit has plastic moulded harnesses which are ok-ish but not for me. The other thing I’m trying to get is some custom masks - I would say essential in this scale. Although, I have just noticed that Funkdecals are producing a part decal, part mask set which looks perfect - except I didn’t initially want to do a dark blue one. I’ve just finished a factory finish Corsair (primer) and that’s an option too. I also like the Fleet Air Arm options. But basically, 90% of all schemes are US Dark Navy Blue which will be tricky to make interesting. The more appealing 3 tone schemes are restricted to the F6F-3. So before I get started, some obligatory sprue shots: Lovely big box! The instructions have 310 stages! 600 parts, so not a weekend kit... The decal sheet: Hopefully this should give some scale: The slightly iffy seatbelts: The stressed skin effect: Cockpit detail: Engine Sprue: The clear sprue looks good: To summarise, it’s impressive but doesn't exude the quality of a Wingnuts or latest Tamiya kit. That said, I’m sure in the right hands it could look spectacular. Will update once I’ve got started. Thanks for looking in, Guy
  15. 3 points
    spook

    Mig-21 F13 trumpeter 1/32

    Hi alal, Here my last built : the Trumpeter Mig-21 F13 in Hungarian colours. I Used Pavla resin cockpit, Master pitot tub, HAD covers and decals. Hope you like it.
  16. 3 points
    Work started on the correct size pylons for the JL-100 pods. Cheers
  17. 3 points
    RichieB

    1/32 Early F-15B Eagle - 58TTW

    OK, progress (a bit!) I've mostly been tinkering with the pylons and fuel tanks but decided to switch to the cockpits just so I can paint something. The front pit is the Aires early model which is very nice. I have yet to add the dial instrumentation as that bit comes when I add the lighting, The sidewalls from the Aires kit are also quite nice. The holes have been added for cockpit lighting. The rear tub is the modified Revell one with a resin replacement for the IP. Again instrument dials need adding. At some point I'm going to have to work out how to sandwich these two halves together so they fit the front fuselage. The jet jockeys also get some green. They look a bit shinier in the photos than I remember, must be newbies! Clearly their heads will be added at some point but I find it easier to paint them separately and I'm toying with the idea of adding squadron markings to them rather than have them plain white. However, not seen many pictures of early F-15 helmets painted this way so it will be a bit of artistic license if I do. And something to sit on. I've got some additional PE to apply when the pilots are added. Well, another small step closer. Just plucking up the courage (and will power) to rivet and add missing detail to the external aircraft surfaces which are missing from the Revell kit for the most part.
  18. 3 points
    Well... as we cannot say yes or no under all given conditions, I'd at least prefer to have the option of adding them myself instead of cleaning up poor rivets done by somebody else.
  19. 3 points
    Nose with the bombardier and the "ACE" navigator!
  20. 3 points
    It was kinda neat to open the box and look at what I did, so long ago. Hope my eyes will hold out. AHHH! all finished with this build
  21. 3 points
    I think I may have figured out how to post my pics
  22. 3 points
    Sorry for the delay but here are a few more pictures for people who asked. If you want to see anything in detail, let me know!
  23. 3 points
    Well, this sucks... The Jl-100 pods seem to be about 2.8mm too small in diameter. Then there's the blast vents for the rocket pod, only three instead of six. Which means they'll be oversized as well This is most certainly not a fixer upper, but a new set will have to be scratch built. Note that the inboard blast vent has a cover facing rearwards. Cheers
  24. 3 points
    Hi guys, Next I would like to tackle the tail fin, but can only get to museum on Saturday to take accurate measurements on the Mirage IIIR2Z. In the meantime, work started on reshaping the JL-100 rocket pod cones. The ones in the kit are way too pointy, and maybe more fitting for one of Madonna's costumes from back in the day... Here's a picture the progress made on it so far. Cheers
  25. 2 points
    RichieB

    1/32 Early F-15B Eagle - 58TTW

    Hi everyone, Having eventually completed the F-4E, the desire to actually assemble a model rather than admire the contents has returned. The subject of the next labour of love is the old Revell F-15 which I am going to attempt to construct as its 'B' version. I'm not sure why I've gone for another Revell kit other than they are relatively cheap in comparison to the alternatives and this one is nearer to a B than converting say the Tamiya E (I also have some spare parts for this kit if I screw something up!). That said I will inevitably blow this reasoning out of the water by buying more aftermarket stuff than I need and adding stuff like lights that will turn it from 'easy and cheap' to 'challenging and expensive'. The other challenge will be making a mono-chromatic paint finish look real. So here's the kit in question: I understand that the shape is good but it lacks some of the Tamiya detail. As I have a Tamiya C I'm going to try and read across any additional detail that looks ok. I also have Jake Melampy's excellent book on the F-15 and some internet piccies though this version will be an early 70's jet so references are a bit thin on the ground. My initial hit list will include: - Revised cockpit based on the Aires A model pit - Escapac sets (kit has Aces version) - Revised engine exhausts as the kits ones are pretty plain - Added rivet detail - this kit has none - Added detail where the vents are - Added crew (the kit has none) - Alternative sidewinder launch-rails where no weapons are carried - kit ones are pretty crude - New formation lights - Aim-9J drill rounds Feel free to offer any steers on where else I mighty need to go. Please bear in mind that my work-rate is inversely proportional to home command commitments so don't expect a quick turn-round! Thanks for watching.
  26. 2 points
    WasatchAviator

    Tamiya P-51 with upgrades

    Here is my first build here on the site. Let me know what you think before I put the 2 halves together! HDW Seat Belts and Baracudacals placards
  27. 2 points
    red baron

    CURTISS BF2C

    my last buit , enjoy : voila voila
  28. 2 points
    curiouslysophie

    1/32 Revell FW-190 F-8

    Here is my first post of a plane, indeed my first ever plane kit! I’m having lots of fun with it! I have chucked every aftermarket part at this kit as I like loads of intricate detail. I’ve also decided to open up many of the panels to get a better view inside. I didn't take pictures before finding this forum, so I’m already a chunk of the way through. I build not too full historical accuracy, but I keep it in the realm of possibility. Today I finished the engine; a truly wonderful kit by Eduard. I hope you all like it! Sophie If anyone know of a better way to get pictures up on here, I’m all ears. Photobucket is terrible!
  29. 2 points
    After 5 months of building my Flak-Kat jumped on my bench (first time EVER) and knocked the kit onto the hardwood floor. OUCH! Lot's of scratch built parts were dislodged and scattered across the floor. I managed to do some repairing and leaving out some details that would never be seen, my camera quit working. Discouraged and discussed she went on the SoD. 5 1/2 years later, having built multiple kits and several builds for the Barksdale Global Power Museum "Wings over Barksdale" display, I found the old thread to this build and started reading. It brought back old memories and started the juices flowing to pull her out and start working on her. Unfortunately I shut down my P-bucket account and lost all of the earlier pictures. I also managed to lose the early pics when my old computer crashed. My plan is to continue where I left off and will post more when the camera battery recharges. She will be In-Flight with bombs coming out of the bomb-bay and #3 engine feathered, Kit decals for "Milk Wagon"....who uses kit decals? lol Full crew made from modified Master Details Cold Weather WWII pilots (All are done except the ball turret gunner needs paint tail gunner) Only aftermarket are Brass machine gun barrels http:// Trying to figure out how to post pics easier than my experiment this afternoon
  30. 2 points
    Calling the combat K9 done (except for a few touch ups I just noticed-) I wont likely pose the dog with a PJ specifically as shown here- don’t think PJ’s are trained as dog handlers- but you get the idea-
  31. 2 points
    Koralik

    P-40F WarHawk Trumpeter 1:32

    Model Trumpeter P-40F Warhawk 1:32 scale, Made straight from the box, the model is very easy to build. In terms of the compatibility of this model with the P-40F, unfortunately, I can't comment because I have no knowledge about aircraft from IIWW times. The person who ordered this model would like it to be heavily exploited, I hope that the effect has been achieved.
  32. 2 points
    That looks sensational, Max! You're making my fingers itch to build another one myself. Kev
  33. 2 points
    curiouslysophie

    1/32 Revell FW-190 F-8

    Thank you Alan It is a lovely bird to build. The fit could be better, took a fair bit of filling and sanding to get it smooth (might just be my lack of skill though!). The eduard sets for this kit are great, highly recommend the engine and cockpit sets.
  34. 2 points
    Stevepd

    1/32 Early F-15B Eagle - 58TTW

    You may have seen my thread about the B and all the recommendations have come to this kit, so watching with interest. Steve.
  35. 2 points
    LSP_Kevin

    Attitude Aviation Buchon Conversion

    Espen seems to think that I've cut the fuselage too far back, but I'm not convinced. I certainly haven't done it to the degree suggested by the test fit! Still, it's a possible factor, and I'm certainly prepared to concede that I've screwed something up here. My plan to fix it at this stage is to start by cleaning up the canopy pieces, masking them up, and fitting them permanently into place, as they're the non-negotiable elements as far as fit goes. Then, I'll trim and shim the other parts to suit. I haven't had a chance to work on it yet, but I'll post an update when I do! Kev
  36. 2 points
    Thanks guy's.....I thought the egg plane was a nice touch..same Squadron anyway. what happened to the delete option? I'm stuck with a silly looking post ….cause I am silly. jack
  37. 2 points
    I have to believe that that P40 had an absolutely museum grade restoration (Paul Allen would have accepted nothing less) I have to think that during the process they filled the areas around the flush rivets with a bondo like material then sanded the whole surface to get the smoothest possible finish. As others have said I doubt that the aircraft would have actually gone to war with that smooth of a surface unless it was done by the individual crews. For some context here’s a couple pictures of my Mooney which are renowned for their use of flush riveting. About two thirds of the wing leading edges and tail are flush riveted with the back portion being normal button heads. My paint is straight onto the metal after old paint was stripped and light sanding, no fillers. As you guys have said rivets both flush and exposed on jets, light aircraft etc really aren’t noticeable from more then a few feet away. I think modern military jets are the only exception because the matte gray paint really holds dirt and grime and accentuates the rivets. Its certainly above my skill level to duplicate this at scale that’s for sure!
  38. 2 points
    Fanes

    Bf 109F-4/Trop 8./JG27 - finished

    Folks - the finish line is almost in sight! No experiments with the washing. I took my usual oil paints and white spirit for that action. I'm not a big fan of the typical dark black-green-brown wash which makes the panel lines look like dark trenches. In my opinion those pre-mixed washes from Ammo and what's their name are much better suited to an aircraft model. So for the underside I mixed a dark RLM76 from blue, white and raw umber and applied it to the panel lines. Here's the result before removing the excess: The two tones on the uppers make fitting a good match for a wash difficult. Since there are no big blotches I couldn't go for a two tone wash. So I ended up mixing a dark brown with a hint of green (oh the irony..). Again it's not too dark and not overly prominent as you can see in a wider shot: After the flat coat it's just the final assembly and some minor painting to do - mostly exhaust stains, dust and the gun barrels haven't seen any paint so far.
  39. 2 points
  40. 2 points
    Flanker37

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    Man i wish a GR9 could be made from this, i wouldnt hesitate in splashing out no end of money.. Stellar work, im waiting with baited breath at the finished article Hobbyboss have lost out here with bad planning. Knowing this would be the only Harrier in this scale, all variants of the AV-8B should have been included in the box
  41. 2 points
    Apologies for the lack of updates, but with a book deadline looming, and other mitigating factors, I just haven't been able to spend any time at the bench. I did manage to join the fuselage halves, fix the errors that Vincent pointed out with the cockpit, and get it installed. You'll also notice that I've installed the lap belts from the HGW set. I'm not 100% happy with my work on them, but they'll be OK under a closed canopy I think. The shoulder straps will follow once the area around the cockpit rear decking has been finished. At this point, I thought I'd better test-fit the nose components in situ with the canopy, and was in for a nasty shock: The resin piece in the front of the windscreen is supposed to end flush with the cut in the fuselage, but as you can see, it protrudes quite a bit - about 1.5mm on the starboard side, and about 1mm on the other. I have no idea what I've done to cause this, and no real idea how to rectify it, either! Admittedly the canopy parts have yet to be cleaned up properly, but there are no sprue burs on the front and back edges anyway, so I don't think that's the problem. And my fuselage cut point would be out by the width of a panel line at the most. I also failed to heed the warning in the instructions that the forward bulkhead might need some trimming to ensure the top piece fits correctly. I installed it unaltered, and now the fuselage is slightly too wide at that point. That should be an easy fix, so it's not a major concern right now. I'll be back when I can figure out a solution to the fuselage problem, which at the moment is a bit of a show-stopper. I'm guessing a bit of shim-and-trim, but we'll see. Wish me luck! Kev
  42. 2 points
    I’ve been in commercial aircraft leasing for the last twenty plus years and 15 years with a major US airline before that. I flew Helicopters and worked on them in the Army National Guard. The rivet topic has always been of interest to me and I see this topic thrown back and forth. I’m in the category that you simply don’t see a lot of rivet heads on new or well maintained aircraft. My humble opinion obviously. I also would share is topic in a couple of different directions. Fresh aircraft from the factory and or restored aircraft are built in a controlled environment and extremely well manufactured. The latest Warbird restorations are done with real care and passion involved. You will usually not see rivets on painted aircraft if there a flush head rivet involved. These awesome restoration are then painted in gloss coats of paint and it just turns my stomach. I have total respect for the restoration attempts but maybe cleaning a gloss coat and highly polished a/c is way more easier than a dull coat of paint with dust on it. (Off topic, sorry). The war time manufacturing conditions where a bit different. The aircraft were simply pushed out the door as soon as possible. Then you see the manufactured aircraft with button head rivets that look awesome in person. The B-17G as a prime example. The entire fuselage is full of button head rivets and looks the part. Recessed lines representing a row of button head rivets just looks wrong. Thank god for Archer rivets. Helicopters are also full of button head rivets or the one’s I few (UH-1’s, AH-1,s and OH-58’s ) had them. The soot from the exhaust catches the rivets and enhances the rivet head appearance. The Luftwaffe subjects seem to get picked on a lot. War time photos of BF-109F wings seem to have no indications of rivet patterns at all. Some of the aces at the time, had their aircraft polished for performance reason and therefore knocking off the paint in the process and exposing the bare rivet heads in a lot of pictures. The other idea I’d like to suggest is the late war stuff when you see these pictures the aircraft have been siting around out side for a while. The late winter or early spring environment in Germany after the war has ended and the dirt/ grime is setting in around the rivets and fasteners is a whole other issue. The aircraft are not being maintained by ground crew member and you see the dust and dirt setting in. Just my my thoughts here and not meant discourage anyone else’s own opinion on the topic.
  43. 2 points
    I'm not doing it, GWH is doing it. I'm helping them with research. The project is just now getting started. I'm going to push for an accurate base kit that will allow a B, C, Tomahawk, or Hawk 81A to be done.
  44. 2 points
    Gisbod

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    Just thought I’d add a stock image of the Airscale set:
  45. 2 points
    Hi John here is the dimensions of the pylon. The JL-100 uses the some pylon as the 1300 liter tank but I think the extension on the pylon rear is only on the tank and not the JL-100. Dimensions in cm measured on the full size tank. Here is the correct dimensions for the tank. Cheers Nick
  46. 2 points
    dennismcc

    Make the others jealous

    Well after seeing it at Telford and Cosford I just had to get one to keep my Hawker Typhoon company. Cheers Dennis
  47. 2 points
    Fanes

    Bf 109F-4/Trop 8./JG27 - finished

    After long thoughts and a lot of doubts the mottling of the wings and the fuselage was a lot of fun. Since there's no picture showing the complete wings or the right hand side of the fuselage - I went with a quite linear mottling (like on a He 219) which is appearant on one picture (at least I guess so). Pulling the otehr masks revealed some more flaws which will be reworked in the next days. Enjoy: So the next steps are: - repairs on the insignia - the RLM76 rectangle behind the swastika - getting some variation into the bigger RLM80 blotches - painting the fuel filler port - wheatering (first time salt fading!) So long Joachim
  48. 1 point
    Amazing work !! Love this !!
  49. 1 point
    I've been getting on with my Harvard build in my few spare moments, nothing spectacular but I'm almost at the priming and painting stage. The first hurdle that had to be overcome however, as I mentioned above, is the tailwheel configuration. As supplied by KH, the tailwheel fits directly into the fuselage, as here on this fine build (I'm not sure who's it is but I hope he doesn't mind me using one of his pictures!): The actual arrangement is shown in the previous post, but since my model is going to be airborne the rear shock won't be under pressure so there's a very distinctive look about it: I started making mine by carving out a piece of resin left over from the Brassin Mustang wheels: and measuring it against the clearest photo I could find which I reduced to about 1/32 scale. My research also showed me the structure of the whole arrangement: and it soon started to look reasonable. A couple of bits of shaped 10 thous plastic glued to a piece of channel and some plastic rod quickly produced the end result: I'm rather pleased with the look of it all. Priming next then I'm going to try the "Scotchbrite" black-basing method.
  50. 1 point
    To many computer GEEKS that know how to do CGI,but don't have any idea how physical things work in the REAL world. I showed this to my best friend who is a CGI expert, but has also been around my model building for 40 years and we beat the crap out of this clip from both reality and graphic wise. These are more gaming graphics then movie and there is a huge difference in the two. The problem with most WAR movies is they compress time and try to tell a months or years long story in 2 hours.aka Memphis Belle 25 missions in 1.that is why it was so bad. Also an untrue story didn't help and they always have to throw in the GRATITIOUS love story. they don't make 'em like Tora Tora Tora Battle of Britian, Longest Day . I'll shut up Jack
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