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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/30/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    RichieB

    1/32 Early F-15B Eagle - 58TTW

    Hi everyone, Having eventually completed the F-4E, the desire to actually assemble a model rather than admire the contents has returned. The subject of the next labour of love is the old Revell F-15 which I am going to attempt to construct as its 'B' version. I'm not sure why I've gone for another Revell kit other than they are relatively cheap in comparison to the alternatives and this one is nearer to a B than converting say the Tamiya E (I also have some spare parts for this kit if I screw something up!). That said I will inevitably blow this reasoning out of the water by buying more aftermarket stuff than I need and adding stuff like lights that will turn it from 'easy and cheap' to 'challenging and expensive'. The other challenge will be making a mono-chromatic paint finish look real. So here's the kit in question: I understand that the shape is good but it lacks some of the Tamiya detail. As I have a Tamiya C I'm going to try and read across any additional detail that looks ok. I also have Jake Melampy's excellent book on the F-15 and some internet piccies though this version will be an early 70's jet so references are a bit thin on the ground. My initial hit list will include: - Revised cockpit based on the Aires A model pit - Escapac sets (kit has Aces version) - Revised engine exhausts as the kits ones are pretty plain - Added rivet detail - this kit has none - Added detail where the vents are - Added crew (the kit has none) - Alternative sidewinder launch-rails where no weapons are carried - kit ones are pretty crude - New formation lights - Aim-9J drill rounds Feel free to offer any steers on where else I mighty need to go. Please bear in mind that my work-rate is inversely proportional to home command commitments so don't expect a quick turn-round! Thanks for watching.
  2. 1 point
    EricF

    RF-8G Trumpeter & Fisher Model

    Another Crusader ! As annonced in the other thread, I am starting the RF-8G in parallel with the F-8E and the F-8E (FN) I will use the Avionics F-8J set for the LOX tank and the MB Mk7, the Aires exhaust ( PW J-57 P20) and cockpit as well. The fuselage had been cut and is already rescribed Cheers Eric
  3. 1 point
    Been working on this one on and off for a while now. It is the much lauded Tamiya rendition of the venerable F-14A Tomcat. The kit was built with the addition of Fine Mold's plastic seat belts and weighted wheels from DEF Model. Painting was done with Mr Color lacquers and weathered with enamels and oils. Decals from the kit but they were a little thick. With superb engineering, this kit was a joy to put together. Feedback welcome and hope you enjoy the photos! Mark
  4. 1 point
    Earlier this year Hubert very kindly sent me a KH Texan T-6 kit which he thought unlikely to build, a very generous gesture nonetheless. Knowing my penchant for Harvards the box was soon winging its way to darkest Dorset, where it's been sitting waiting for the Muse to strike. She's struck! So I've started my second KH "Harvard"; I have the AlleyCat canopy for it but I'm getting round the other issues of undercarriage/wheels and prop length by modelling her flying, so undercart retracted and prop blurs. Unlike my first silver one, this one will be yellow: like some flying in this "Balbo". I need to do a bit more research with Dad's logbook, dates and serial numbers to try to establish exactly which one, but safe to say it'll be yellow! Made a start yesterday on the engine: and today with the pilot and lower cockpit floor area. The pilot is adapted from Mike Good's wonderful model of "Sailor" Malan of BoB fame, but oxygen masks and especially Mae Wests were rarely (if ever in the MW case) needed in S Rhodesia, so a bit of butchery was needed: More soon. Max
  5. 1 point
    Fanes

    Bf 109F-4/Trop 8./JG27 - finished

    With my small scale 109 99% finished and my group build entry a little stalled (waiting for a 3D printed part) I'm ready to start something new. I picked Hasegawa's Bf 109F, which was my second LSP kit ever bought ca.7 years ago, from my stash. Here's the project inventory: So what's the plan? I'm not going to build the 1000000th Marseille 109 but a quite interesting alternative: Red 2 from 8./JG 27 which has some really heavy mottling on the fuselage and wings. There's some pictures of the original and some profiles (not sure about copyright, so link only). Eagle Cals suggest a usual RLM74/75/76 scheme overpainted with RLM79 on the upperside and followed by heavy mottling with RLM80. Not your usual 109 Trop for sure! I've collected some aftermarket stuff for this build: - MG17 tips from Master - the MG FF barrels will be used on my 109E build. - Brassin exhausts, I hope they'll fit since they're meant for the Revell 109G-6 - CMK wheels, cheap (~4€) and a slight improvent over the kit parts - Aires cockpit, at first I wanted to go for scratch building the cockpit details but then there was one post in the LSP discussion indicating that this Aires set is one of the rare examples of good fit. I'll see.... That's the whole plan for now, building might start at the end of the week. So long Joachim
  6. 1 point
    kensar

    1/48 Roden Pilatus Porter

    Finished this workhorse. My first Roden kit. Nice detail, but panel lines are wide and shallow. Added details include an aluminum spinner, turned on the lathe. Thanks for looking, comments welcome.
  7. 1 point
    TimW

    MiG-23MF Flogger B, Polish AF, 1970s

    OK. I purchased the Flogger B when it first came out....did some work; stopped when the G came out and built that. The B has languished for awhile and I've gone all around the block trying to settle on a version. I was going to do an East German Flogger, but now am going with an all over grey Polish AF bird. Why? Because I have a camouflaged G aready, a K in the stash (which will also be camo'd) and thought an all over grey one would be a nice contrast. That, and I'll have to buy more MFs and MLs because I want to do Cuban, other Pact versions, etc. Pics shortly, as soon as I can get stuff onto Imgur, etc. Stay tuned. Tim W
  8. 1 point
    Fanes

    Bf 109F-4/Trop 8./JG27 - finished

    Being ill has its perks - lots of time at the bench! The cockpit is near completion. I added the chipping on the seat, cockpit floor and trim wheels. This was followed by a gloss coat. More pictures when the pin wash is sealed up. Then I turned my attention to the wheel wells and wings. Wheels first. I bought some resin wheels from CMK without having a good picture of them berforehand. Well, they're slightly better than the kit's wheels but no comparison to the eduard brassin wheels which are however 4 times more expensive! Hasegawwa left, CMK right. Hasegawa includes a brake line on the main landing gear. I would rather say: Hasegawa tries to replicate a brake line, but look for yourself: It's a good thing I like bending wires and gluing them to my fingers! The wings are used on different kits so some panels need filling: Hasegawa includes a plastic part to fill the bulge in the wheel well ceiling but it fits like crap and is surrounded by rivets. I decided to not go crazy and to leave the wheel wells in the dark without any further work/detailing.My next 109 - a Regia Aeronautica G-6 or a photo recon G-2 will feature a detailed wheel well from Radu Brinzan - so I have no regrets going the easy way on this build. Despite this little throwback I'm having a lot of fun with this build! I still have to sort out the seatbelts. Are there any opinons on the usage of the green orlon material on a Bf 109F-4?
  9. 1 point
    EricF

    RF-8G Trumpeter & Fisher Model

    I will represent this aircraft, the RF-8G BuNo 144614
  10. 1 point
    EricF

    RF-8G Trumpeter & Fisher Model

    Tonight I assembled the wing in deployed configuration and it will be represented in up position The little issue regarding the shapes of the resin part is that it is flat and not reproducing the wing profile. We can see it on one of the pics. I will correct it with putty. Here are pictures showing the wing right after assembly. Bye for now Eric
  11. 1 point
    David Hansen

    RF-8G Trumpeter & Fisher Model

    It looks really good so far Eric. I have one started as well, but i got bogged down in the cockpit and since its being built for someone else, i have a Tamiya F-14A in the works for *me* that i want to get knocked out first. I haven't chopped the fuselage halves yet; following the instructions pretty much word for word. When you test fit the cameras onto the tabs mounted onto the sides of the intake trunk, you'll notice the attachment is rather loose and floppy. Bonding some plastic strip onto the tabs to thicken em up (i think) will make the attachment more robust. The integrated nose/intake trunk is sort of a critical piece to "muscle" the left and right fuselage halves into position (it overcomes some slight distortions that are endemic to the resin casting process), and you also want to make sure the underside of the fuselage is perfectly flat, and not slightly bowed in like a Revell Germany kit box. Just some observations based on what i encountered so far. Feel free to use or discard as you see fit. -d-
  12. 1 point
    F`s are my favs

    1/32 Early F-15B Eagle - 58TTW

    Low and slow... It's getting together very nicely!
  13. 1 point
    themongoose

    1/32 Early F-15B Eagle - 58TTW

    Lov’n all your work. With all these adjustments I’d need a whiskey and not popcorn whilst working on it
  14. 1 point
    KEi

    1/32 Early F-15B Eagle - 58TTW

    watching with interest. I built 2 of those and the problems I had was the joint between the front and main fuselage which you may take caution. Also I felt the Revell windscreen is not as curve as Tamiya, looking flat thus I replace it with Tamiya's one (Just my preference). Overall I still love this Revell offering
  15. 1 point
    RichieB

    1/32 Early F-15B Eagle - 58TTW

    So despite my optimism, modelling time in 2019 has so far been somewhat short and sweet. However, progress (some) has been made and I finally managed to spray something, albeit with black primer! Most of the time has been taken up with tinkering with the cockpit details. I'm cut-and-shunting the aires cockpit front end to the revell rear end as they seem to be similar proportions. The aires front end is very nicely done, especially when you overlay the PE. The PE is not fixed yet as I need to drill out holes for the IP lighting. I have however drilled out a lot of the resin behind the IP to make this process a bit easier. The main cockpit is again very nice from Aires but I've had to get rid of a lot of resin to make the lighting easier to add. The Revell rear cockpit is based on an F-15E so not really relevant. I've therefore removed a few panels, moved and beefed up the throttles and added some rear wall detail. The rear IP is courtesy of partsrparts and a much better representation of an F-15B IP. I've had to modify the IP somewhat to allow it to fit the narrowed cockpit walls and the side panels I've also decided to add. I've also drilled out the instrument dials in preparation for some lighting effects. The need to trim down the IP edges comes from adding some side wall detail to fill in the gaps from moving the cockpit side consoles inwards due to the seats being too small for the space (or the space too big for the seats). Everyone still with me? Aires has kindly provided the front cockpit side wall detail, I just have to make it fit the Revell kit. You'll notice the hole for the avionics vent which I am also in the process of scratchbuilding. This one needs some more work apparently (dam this digital photography close up). Still not sure how I'm going to fit this all together seamlessly!
  16. 1 point
    EricF

    RF-8G Trumpeter & Fisher Model

    Since now the four parts of fuselage had been adjusted on a plane surface, it is time for gluing them together. I started first by attaching each fore part on its aft one. It is very fragile because they are attached on the only depth of plastic with cyano. Next I attached the new two alf fuselage together with tape and a big clamp on the fin. The aim is at checking precisely the final alignment and the symetry before gluing stiffeners inside each alf fuselage. Here below some pics for illustration. The final result here below And the Aires wheel well is almost drop and fit ! In fact I have to match the depth of resin the one of the plastic kit. But it is a good surprise right now That's all for now Cheers Eric
  17. 1 point
    EricF

    RF-8G Trumpeter & Fisher Model

    I am still preparing all the main parts of the air frame. The main challenge of this build will be on the junction between the Fisher Model and the Trumpeter half fuselages. Since each part having a landing gear, if the alignment is not perfect right now, the aircraft will have a twisted looking once on its legs and when we see the hight of the fin, it would be preferable to put attention on the preparation of the parts. But take a look on the pics ..... no comment on the adjustment. Well done Mr Fisher To reach this, I just put the fuselage under hot water for the resins recovering its original shape. But honestly it was really minor distortion. Then I sanded each half fuselage on the sand paper sheet over a glass table. To make sure to have a perfect symmetry, I will glue the fore and aft parts together first. I will recover two half fuselages like on a conventional kit afterwards.
  18. 1 point
    EricF

    RF-8G Trumpeter & Fisher Model

    Hi ! I'm back today with some work on the wings At that step, the aim is at checking the dry fitting of the new dorsal spine with the kit wings I strictly followed the instructions from Paul. Here are the different steps on the following pics Step 1 Removing of the regular Crusader dorsal spine by cutting alongside the black line Next pic is to show how the fuselage of the Recce version is different from the standard one The dorsal spine is much larger Step 2 Cutting the forward bulkhead from the underside wing part. A specific larger one is provided in the kit to receive a photo etched part Step 3 Some sanding on the edges of the wings and on spine is necessary to be able, to step by step, to plug the upper side on the underside of the wing. Nothing difficult and seriously Paul did a great job !!! The gap we see on the left wing root is because of me. I had the hand a little bit heavy on the sand paper. I will fill it in later with a thin steerene part. Bye and thanks for watching Stay tuned Eric
  19. 1 point
    Fanes

    Bf 109F-4/Trop 8./JG27 - finished

    Cockpit work I guess 99% of the builds here start with the cockpit and so is this one. My reason for this start is that the cockpit will require most work. After cleaning and the removal of the mold plugs the examination of the Aires cockpit begins. First up: comparison of the cockpit sidewalls: In my opinion the resin parts are by far superior to the sparse original parts. Some scraping and sanding later the fuselage lost all its inenr details. With some trimming of the cockpit mounting points and cutting down the locator pin in front of the cockpit I got a snug fit: And now the first babysteps in construction: Gun cover and PE rudder pedals. The latter are okayish but I've definitely seen better (HGW and eduard). The unforgiving macro reveals the imperfect cleanup and shows the gap between cockpit front wall and the gun cover (for sure invisible in the end). Next big part is the instrument panel. Although the Hasegawa part is nicely detailed I'm not into painting the dials, so the one from Aires with acetate film for the dials is my way to go. So far only three PEs stacked up and not glued into place: More to come Joachim
  20. 1 point
    TimW

    MiG-23MF Flogger B, Polish AF, 1970s

    I just want to say I find the Rube Goldberg main gear on this aircraft annoying. But I got them on! Some more small bits need to be added, then some touching up and gloss coat and decaling. Then the real work of detailing and weathering shall begin!
  21. 1 point
    TimW

    MiG-23MF Flogger B, Polish AF, 1970s

    Yes, the light isn't the best. It'll be more obvious once I do the sludge treatment!
  22. 1 point
    TimW

    MiG-23MF Flogger B, Polish AF, 1970s

    Need to finish off landing gear, next, and the ventral fin (folded in the right direction, of course).
  23. 1 point
    TimW

    MiG-23MF Flogger B, Polish AF, 1970s

    One more.
  24. 1 point
    TimW

    MiG-23MF Flogger B, Polish AF, 1970s

    More shots. I did some brush work with lighter and mostly darker shades of grey, then fine sanding. More to be done. Also did the nose and the panel up on the vertical stabilizer.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    patricksparks

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    Moving along, I started to work on some of the aerodynamics, a little hardware on the vertical stab(alot more of that everywhere) and back on the wings for awhile, alot of scrapping needed on the leading edges, Hobbyboss made them too flat but the good thing is that they molded everything with such heavy walls you don't have to back fill it !!! Also I modified the wing root/leading edge fillet, it is far too flat on the bottom and needs to have a continuos arc from the very front back to the leading edge of the wing, easy fix, I took the kit parts that go inside the fillets and thinned the front so it would fit farther up inside the fillet and removed the internal bosses except for the very back one and removed the internal step that the peice sets on except at the back where it meets the wing's leading edge, the fillet should be full thickness and then taper towards the front in an arc. Also added the black styrene that are covers over the fillet and engine covers joints.
  27. 1 point
    patricksparks

    1:18 Hobbyboss AV-8B Harrier

    One side console done, one to go !!! Left side almost done, have to install switches. The one photo shows Harold's/AMS replacement seat in place. Getting there !
  28. 1 point
    RichieB

    1/32 Early F-15B Eagle - 58TTW

    In a brief pause in the festive preparations I've been tinkering with the Aires Escapac ejection seats. Having wedged them slightly wider at the bottom I raised the seat height by a few mm to get the head position right (will need to check this before fixing the canopy in place). I'm not too worried about the finish on the seat as the pilots will be obscuring most of that detail. The pull handle in the head box was removed as these are A-4/A-7 seats and is not required for the F-15. The next addition were the rails and cross-bar supports at the back of the seat. I chamfered the bottom ends to keep the tops parallel and most of this area will be hidden anyway. The main reason for not splitting the entire seat was to preserve the pole detail you can see at the top and rear of the seat. In addition, I've modified the rear cockpit section of the Revell kit to add some rear wall detail, remove spurious instrument detail, reposition the throttles and narrow the side walls by about 1 mm. I'll have to modify the rear instrument panel it doesn;t match the profile of the revised cockpit and it's too wide. With the seated pilot on board the fit now looks a lot more snug. Other items in the cockpit also need attention. The canopy frame below is quite plain and I'm not sure if it is the correct shape either. Any steers gratefully received! Hopefully I'll get some time between now and the new year to do some more tinkering but in the mean-time, have a great Xmas everyone and best wishes for a model-tastic New Year! (Maybe I'll even finish this one before 2020!)
  29. 1 point
    RichieB

    1/32 Early F-15B Eagle - 58TTW

    Whilst fiddling with the cockpit layout I thought I'd have a look at how much extra detail the Tamiya kit has compared to the Revell one. A quick brown wash reveals the Tamiya (on the right) is a smoother plastic and has some riveting detail (although nowhere near the Trumpeter levels) whereas the Revell has none. It also shows some differences on the panel lines so I will have to work out which is the correct one and whether to amend accordingly. The Tamiya is a 'C' model so there may be some differences that are not on the 'B' ie the airbrake detail at the rear. Overall, not too dissimilar and should respond well to some added riveting detail. The small gun vent in the Revell kit also appears to be in the wrong place. I have the GT Resin vent update set for the F-15 which looks like it should work for the Revell kit though it doesn't include the rather large vent behind the cockpit so I'll have to work out how to enhance this detail. Any more early-B detail references gratefully received!
  30. 1 point
    RichieB

    1/32 Early F-15B Eagle - 58TTW

    Many thanks for the steers chaps, much appreciated. I'm going to do this one in flight (again), it avoids the undercarriage issues but then you have to put aircrew in the jet and try to paint them realistically! Dan - following your build with interest, the width of the replacement seats is definitely an issue. Here are some seats for comparison of the problem. From left to right Aires Aces (with pouring block still attached), Aires Escapac and Revell Aces. Even without the launch rails the Aires seats look undersized (although I suspect the Revell one was made bigger to fit the cockpit). You will notice a slight modification to the Escapac seat which consists of a wedgey to widen the bottom of the seat. This performs 2 functions, it makes it look wider in relation to the cockpit side instrument panels and wide enough to fit the Tamiya's pilot I'm intending to sit on it. I must admit I wasn't brave enough to completely slice the seat in half and the mod will eventually be hidden by the pilot sitting on it.! This is the Revell tub with the kit ACEs seat in the front and a 'modified' Escapac seat in the back. As you can see the Revell seat is the wrong type for my version and a bit soft on detail but it fits. The Escapac seat is now better but I think I'm still going to have to narrow the cockpit sides to avoid the rather large gap. By the way the cockpit detail is ok but the throttles need moving on the rear cockpit which also has an F-15E IP. I am also working on incorporating an Aires F-15A front cockpit as the detail is better, particularly on the coaming, and as a bi-product also fits the Aires seat better. Kind regards,
  31. 1 point
    Dandiego

    1/32 Early F-15B Eagle - 58TTW

    I am currently building this kit as a Japanese aggressor. Look for my WIP "Building Japanese ". Probably you will want to reposition the ailerons. New exhaust cans for sure. Extra detailing on the canopy, also you will have to add a bulkhead to the aft end of the canopy. Seams in the intakes will be a pain. Make sure to paint the fuselage area between the intakes before glueing the nose to the main body. Kit decals will be 35 years old and seem to have lots of excess glue when dunked in water. Seats need to be replaced. Cockpit tub is ok. Dan
  32. 1 point
    Lee White

    1/32 Early F-15B Eagle - 58TTW

    Nose strut is ridiculously fragile.
  33. 1 point
    evening folks & thank you a little more done.. these are the radios in the back - SCR274 I think... a lovely shot, rich in detail, all of which I have to try and make... ..I started by adding what I could to the 3D printed versions.. I could already see problems though - the main tuning wheels were not very well defined for example.. ..so I cut them off (and the knobs & bumps) and made those myself too.. this is the smaller one.. ..and the larger one.. there are some tiny black screws I still need to work out how to do - paint was too coarse, I tried rivet decals but they have carrier film, so I might try and get a Rotring drawing pen to do them,, ...next the racks they sit on - again another great reference shot from Aircorps.. ..these were made from lots of little bits of litho and odds & sods.. I didn't make up the boxes at the back as these are so deep in the fuselage they won't be seen.. ..and this is how they sit (dryfit) on their racks.. ..lastly the subframes the racks sit on - one square bit of painted litho and a couple of folded constructions painted black.. ..and the ensemble together.. ..next I need to try and get all this kit and the fuel tank mounted TTFN Peter
  34. 1 point
    It comes with the scale, I think. A monolithic chunk of plastic, however perfectly printed and masterfully painted, will never be up there in the same league with Pete's marvelously handcrafted mixed media assemblies, at least in 18th scale. A strong ingredient to the exceptional realism shown here, after all, is the use of similar materials as in the original machine. A less obvious factor would be the naturally occuring 'simplification' of parts, that comes with direct hand eye coordination while building them, instead of zooming into a milky(ly?) illuminated rectangle, and thereby loosing all sense of scale. Well, I guess I really had to try and find an explanation...
  35. 1 point
    I honestly can't come up with an original word of praise for your work, so I'll just copy/paste this here: difficult to believe; extraordinary. synonyms: magnificent, wonderful, marvelous, spectacular, remarkable, phenomenal, prodigious,breathtaking, extraordinary, unbelievable, amazing, stunning, astounding, astonishing, awe-inspiring, staggering, formidable, impressive, supreme, great, awesome, superhuman; informalfantastic, terrific, tremendous, stupendous, mind-boggling, mind-blowing, jaw-dropping,out of this world, far out; literarywondrous "an incredible feat of engineering"
  36. 1 point
    so cool Peter, even the little details like ink stamps, gotta love this build! cheers
  37. 1 point
    Wish I had something of substance to say that hasn't already been said...…..speechless!
  38. 1 point
    airscale

    1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"

    thank you my friends, you are all too kind Target for tonight is the MN26C Tropicalised Radio Compass - I think this is the reciever part.. ...note all the cables & fittings, screws, the odd colour it is - it also has some lovely labels that had to be made as decals... now I thought I would get all clever with this and the other radios and reproduced them lovingly in 3D. As I wanted to start on them now, rather than pull a favour from friends to print them I joined Shapeways where I had seen others just get stuff printed on demand. I uploaded them, paid 60 euros for ultra fine plastic (which seemed horrifically expensive for three bits no more than a cm or two square) and waited for the postman.. ..on arrival I cleaned them up and primed them.. ..not too impressed actually - they seem to have quite a coarse 'waffle' effect like a raised grid across all vertical surfaces and the bigger details don't seem very crisp.. One other major flaw was down to me - I don't know how, or why but the MN26 part seen in the pic of Lopes Hope above is not tall enough... I toyed with living with it given that one part is the cost of a half decent kit, but I couldn't so started to make one.. ..I started by making the endplates, and the box from folded litho, bulked out with plastic to keep rigidity.. ..by scaling & printing the layout I can mark what goes where on the business end.. ..I then started to make up a kit of parts for all the details.. some of our airscale bezels, guitar string, wire from a busted laptop and odds & sods from my box of watch bits... ..then assembled those prior to priming & basecoat.. ..the rear just has a little clasp.. ..also added some feet from ali tube.. ..then spent a bit of time trying to mix a colour that looked right - I looked at originals that have been sold on ebay and the pics I have and arrived at a semi metallic shade of baby poop... ..and then added all the rest of the cables & decals.. ..I like it better than the other one and I have to say it was more satisfying to make thats it for now, got to see what I can do with the radios next... TTFN Peter
  39. 1 point
    I think you do Don, yes limitations on me really, I should have trimmed it more or used a gloss basecoat - oh well it's done now and was pretty tricky so I might just have to live with it... last update on the weekends activity before the working week crashes the party again.. this panel is next - note the shape, markings and different switch types.. ..started with the PE base parts & laminated one onto plastic to give the pressing depth.. ..I needed to make the little turn switch handles so I made one tiny master and copied it in resin by just using a plasticine mould... ..these were then painted black and the other switchgear & handles made up.. ...then the base part was assembled after painting and the decal prepared by trimming the carrier film.. ..and the unit was assembled with all it's switches.. ..I also added the bomb selector panel at the bottom left of the main panel surround so this is what it looks like all together.. ..thats it for now, hope to be back soon TTFN Peter
  40. 1 point
    Fantastic Instrument panel!!! some pictures of a fresh factory "B/C" Mustang cheers
  41. 1 point
    Sometimes a pic (emoji in this case) is better than a thousand words! Cheers, Wolf
  42. 1 point
    thanks Antonio, I will have to look into that :) I am pretty sure the restored Lopes Hope is green as I have close ups of it finished, but I also have pics of that area before it was restored which look quite original finish so will take a good look at them. Thats a nice colour pic too, thanks for that :) ..another day, another few parts.. ..this time one of my favourite things to do, the Instrument Panel.. ..the PE is in three layers - a backplate to lay the decal instruments on and give it strength, a middle that carries the bezels (as they are inset not proud like most IP's) and the top panel that carries the screws & details.. ..I used the backplate as a template to cut out a sheet of ultra thin plastic 'glass' - this is what I provide in my airscale decal sets.. ..the main panel surround is the same laminate style, but this time just a backplate and a front. The front is slightly bigger at the bottom as these need to be folded to look like the way the real one is.. ..here the folds have been done and the parts assembled.. ..then they were all painted - the bezels in semi-gloss black, the rest in nato black.. ..you might be able to see the difference better here.. ..the panel was carefully assembled with CA - the bezels are a blacker black than the panel.. ..then all the decals were added and a few of the knobs & switches.. ..and dry fitted together.. ..and to give a sense of scale.. that was all over too quickly :) TTFN Peter
  43. 1 point
    mistake mɪˈsteɪk/ noun noun: mistake; plural noun: mistakes 1. an act or judgement that is misguided or wrong. "putting those bulkheads there was a mistake" synonyms: error, fault, inaccuracy, omission, slip, blunder, miscalculation, misunderstanding, flaw, oversight, misinterpretation, fallacy, gaffe, faux pas, solecism, misapprehension, misconception, misreading... ..evening ladies thought I would start with how ballsing something up is what makes you stronger... so, I was working on the frame the radios sit on and the scale drawing showed me that the position of the bulkheads behind the 'A' frame was out. I knew this because I decided to move one slightly forward as the jig I built for the cockpit pod was just a bit short, and the one first behind the seat didn't seem to line up with the measurements I had marked out on the longerons but I chose to ignore that and mount them according to that dimension anyway... ..both these events were as defined above... I realised how one mistake compounds another and no matter how hard it is to wind back, sometimes you just have to bite the bullet. If I had left it, I would have had a nice bulkhead running through the curved rear windows at the rear of the cockpit... ..this would have been quite hard to hide had I got that far... imagine... ..as it was, I had to get the slitting disc out and chop off both bulkheads and reposition them (to exactly where they were marked to be on the PE floor - what was I thinking!). This means there are some rather unscale massive blocks of plastic as bracing but they can't be seen with the tank in.. so, lesson learned: pay attention and don't compromise anyways, on with the build.. this is a very useful pic showing the area behind the seat - note the fuel gauge and all the horizontal framework (covered in blue protective tape) the radios that go here sit on.. (..and that there is no bulkhead running through the window...) I thought I would have a stab at the gauge first.. this was a section of tube, a section of rod and a pinhead - I added the decal & glazed it.. ..and painted & mounted on it's extension pole thing.. ..it goes here on the tank (which also needed chopping about to fit now the bulkheads had moved..) ..next the frame the radios sit on was scaled from the plan and details taken from the superb CAD drawings dropped in the thread a few pages back.. parts made up from brass sesction & folded ali.. ..and the part finished - the cross braces gave the clue to the bulkheads true position.. ....now I have to think about painting as I can't thread this part and the fuel tank in here very easily, and certainly not with the tank details in place.. ..so I painted it.. the green mix took some time and I hope it is near enough.. ..I made some other tank bits - the fabric part is an electrical box that mounts on the 'A' frame covered in a canvas push stud cover.. ..also painted the sub-structure - you can see the bracing for the bulkheads here.. ..added some details to the front of the ;A; frame.. ..and this is what it will all look like.. ..so there you go - a disaster narrowly averted - I am sooooo glad I found it and corrected it now and not way down the line... TTFN Peter
  44. 1 point
    And considering that without trainers there would be no aircrew to fly anything else ...
  45. 1 point
    Good to see you making use of this kit, Max. Looking forward to see your progress with it Hubert
  46. 1 point
    Thanks Harv, this is going to be a simpler build than the first Harvard but still lots of popcorn to eat!! Max
  47. 1 point
    Thanks Harv and Ernie. The props are too long, Harold makes replacements available from Sprue Bros over on your side of the pond: AMS32100 1:32 AMS Resin T-6 Texan 9' Prop Blades (KTH kit) and very good they are too. On the left the kit blade, on the right AMS Resin's (from my first build). Max
  48. 1 point
    I don't know why I suddenly can move the pics............................. I'll post the few shots I have left..................to string you along until I get a camera. I've put this on hold until then ,but do have her back to pre "flak-kat" condition minus the stuff you couldn't see............which is MOST of it Staying out of oblivion Jack
  49. 1 point
    some shots of the radio upper deck and the top turret....................look inside the ball and what do you see? build on hold til I get camera
  50. 1 point
    No worries Jack, Movies should always be taken as entertainment and not as historical fact. We get hung up on historical accuracy....but movies try to convey feeling and emotion. I want to know how a young man felt.....to be far away from home....to be in harms way.....to be scared but still push ahead.. to feel that you may never make it out alive... When i want historical facts...ill go to library or museum.....Movies will usually say..."Based on a true story "or "true events"... which usually means its not entirely history accurate..
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