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Here’s a few scenes from my Tamiya Netz conversion in progress Aires main well Mini Craft Collection seat Tamiya pit, Aires Glareshield, scratch IP, Quinta details. The Aires pit is actually atrocious. The entire thing sits way too far aft. Vertical fin modified with Hasegawa fin base and Quick Boost flare dispensers Aft deck A model details/Archer rivets MCC canopy internals Bandit Resin Factory captive AIM-9 Flight Line Resin ACMI pod Scratch IP with TopAces configuration. Set on Aires pit..which I did not use. Craptastic. Final result there…minus HUD obviously cheers Pigfighter

Last evening and today is when I got to enjoy the fruits of my two-year labor. Buckle up - I have many pictures to show. First, before I proceeded to fuselage join, there was the exterior rear-view mirror, and the pitot mast. These items were easy to Rhino design, and printing was straight forward. Take a look: I am pleased with the mirror, and it is not as wimpy as the mirrors I made for Miss Velma quite a while back. Never-the-less it is just one more item that begs to be broken off. This model is just "festooned" with fragile parts that are easily broken off. Handling it presents the constant risk of breaking something. It's nerve-racking. When done, I will display it and leave it alone! BTW, you are going to see in all these pictures that the Malcolm hood is in various positions. I do that just to show off. I am so proud that the hood can move, I just have to show that it can. 🥰 And speaking of fragile parts that beg to be broken off - the pitot mast: 3D printed of course. The early P-51's had a long mast like you see here. The -D has a much shorter mast. Why? And then - I just flat ran out of things to do before fuselage join. So fuselage join: What a huge Mustang! Look how it dominates my messy modeling table. It bumps up against everything - my foam wing tip protectors were vital! My heart was racing. I was careful as a heart surgeon doing this join, and my 3D printed round support tool was helpful maintaining a (fairly stable at best) upright stance. It was just such a position where the landing gear post breakage catastrophe occurred a month or so ago. Perilous moments for sure, but no problem this time. Once joined, I could bond on the main gear wheels/tires with flats properly oriented. And then it was on to the MLG strut fairings, or strut gear doors, which I have been patiently waiting for for a very long time. They are part of the signature look of the P-51. This is what I wanted: My Rhino MLG door layout, with deadly accurate kinematic geometry, taken directly from the engineering drawings. Needed to assure the gear doors are hanging as they should. Here are the parts (for the LH side), which have been waiting a long time: Installation of the RH door was straight forward, although very delicate work. But the LH door - I had long ago broken off one of the clevis lugs inside the wing which position the top of the door. So I had to jury-rig a couple of crude locator tools to help. And here are the results: The above picture includes the uber-scary repair of the LH gear strut, broken off last month in the most calamitous mistake of the entire build - a build that had plenty of calamities. I can make out the repair, but I hope nobody else can. I am happy with the gear strut fairings. And for new-comers, this Mustang has mismatched tires. On purpose. Also - that last picture shows the results of the big rake angle adventure, which took up lots of oxygen in this thread, and was a many-days-long hand-wringing affair. I think we have a correct rake angle here; let's hope it stays that way.... Once those doors were installed, this model was 99% complete. Lacking only these: Those bomb racks are from Model Monkey - I ordered them along with the rudder pedals and WM seat quite a while back. These racks are beautiful, and appear quite dimensionally accurate - I think I am going to use them, and you will see them installed next post. I am undecided whether or not to make 75 gallon tanks for this kite. But for now - let me flood the zone shamelessly with Cripes a' Mighty pictures: That, ladies and gentlemen, is a 3D printed 1/18 scale P-51B - a two-year effort. She is not perfect by any means, but by god she is dimensionally correct in all respects. Hope you like what you see. Next post will be about the bomb racks, and then I think it will be time for an RFI. Thanks all of you for supporting my effort on Cripes A Mighty.

Some more progress

Painting is almost complete

..another milestone, the IM fuselage blank is complete for assessment by the mouldmakers.. ..there are many new rules of design I am not sure I have met yet, but this after weeks of work is at least the start.. clearly the cockpit needs cutting out and many other structural bits need doing, but the area there needed to be thin for all the cockpit structure..plus all the surface detail needs doing of course.. ..we will see, I will probably have to completely redesign it Peter

my last built :

it's not the end of the world, just frustrating.. there are many places where it is too thick but I have nearly solved that with a full rebuild of the internal surfaces using a much simpler method.. the fin tip was too thin so the whole fin has been redesigned as I couldn't just reshape it - we are talking tenths of a mm, but rules are rules the chin can't be done as I designed it - i already split it off at panel lines as it was too difficult to assemble as was (sliding the wing belly into the nose with a cockpit sat on it), but the radiator shroud inside it can't be done as I want it so thats a head scratcher.. the fin post was too thick in total so risk of sink marks but I can redo that now I have a new fin the prop boss mount on the forward fuselage left a dead angle in the mould that meant the part wouldn't come out with a separate chin, so that will need to be another part the cockpit around the IP and door must be 0.5mm, they don't like it, but I won that one but still need to make transition changes to the thicker full part skin ..I have exploded all the surfaces and have started the rebuild, you can just see the split of the chin - this is a natural panel break, but the fit needs to be bob on thing is, this is all stuff you learn once, so i am hoping I cut my teeth with this and then I can knock up a kit a week after that Peter

Hi Jay - in this case I do have drawings, well access to lots of them anyway from Ian Slater's collection at Typhoon Legacy, but there isn't a drawing for everything obviously. In the absence of a drawing there are a number of valid options - you ask how much guesswork? Some, sometimes.. Lets say you want something like a Defiant fuselage (and the same for the Veltro I started) - there are no drawings; that I have access to anyway so what to do? Well, I started with every 3 view (especially Jumpeii Temma's) and photo I could find, especially any that are in near linear views like side, plan, front etc. I also bought model kits, the Defiant had just been produced by Airfix in 1/48 after LIDAR scanning Cosfords so that was assembled and sectioned in 1cm bits which gave me about 15 cross sectional outlines after photographing them. All of this is rolled up into a draft 3D curve model in Rhino as the basis of the shape. After that it is photo interpretation, like where do the exhausts go - well, find a good period photo and line up enough valid reference points and it goes where the photo(s) show. Rinse and repeat. For more complex details a bit more work is required. The cockpit, undercarriage or systems parts for example - here the same process is used but to scale something you don't have drawings or linear photo's of means you have to use what you do know. For example I know the dimension in the nose between the skins that this radiator sits in.. ..that means every other dimension can be derived (guesswork see..) and copied allowing for printing limitations so it can be reproduced.. ..the 'shock cone' thing on the front is reproduced in the same way - what do you see.. ..you see the outer ring is angled,the inner 'pipe' is straight, the inner vanes are at 45 degrees, there is a lip at the rear so reproduce what you see. It's depth is unknown to me so play until it looks right (guesswork again..) rinse & repeat.. ..my folders are stacked full of images I have imported into rhino to do this.. ..and therin lies in my mind, kit perfection.. Very well produced IM major parts that have excellent surface detail and good assembly qualities, partnered with incredibly finessed 3D parts that take away all the limitations of IM parts for details That is kit experiment number two Peter

There's been some discussion about masking routines; there are many techniques or methods, but for what it's worth, this is mine on my Typhoon using MRP paints: I should have added that the yellow is freehand, take care not to spray/stray onto the white area nearer the centre! I always think of this as the "lazy man's way" because tape is used next to cover up all the masks and their edges so no spray through is possible.

Hello all, Here is a follow on from my P-51D 'Diablo' Not a lot different was done, the insignia and codes were all painted for a more realistic look Thanks for looking and all comments welcome.

First print in 1:32 scale. 8.5 inches so far. Dan

A few progress

Hey folks, first post here. I got back into the hobby about 6 months ago and this is my first truly large scale build. This is a newly released kit, I had it on preorder and it came in Thursday. It's probably going to be an out of the box build, haven't seen any aftermarket available yet and the detail on the kit is so incredible that I'm not sure I could improve it much with my skills. I'll be doing Bundeswehr markings - the only downside of building the Leo is that they're all basically identical (I read that they're painted by robots). I'm now at the super fun track assembly step. 😅 Honestly it's not been too bad, about 2 hours Friday evening got all of the track pins off the sprue and cleaned up, another 2.5 hours last night got half of the track links off the sprue and about 1/4 of them assembled. The tracks are so big that they go together easy! Finally a few close ups of some of the amazing detail on the kit. Pretty decent looking weld seams IMO, able beautifully crisp bolts and casting marks.

Hi Guys Thanks for the enthusiastic reaction and for the orders so far. This one is my "baby" so am keen to prove that the idea is viable. Darryl's box art is certainly grabbing attention. In terms of what you will be able to make from the box; we have found a "thing" that I can't see has been noticed before. This is down to the eagle eyes of Darren Mildenhall; CAD jockey par excellence. The blisters on the A were a different shape to subsequent marks. It is hard to see until someone like Darren starts doing CAD for them, but it is obvious once you see it. So; the blisters for the A are unique to the A as far as we can figure out to date. As always, happy to be corrected if you have better information. BiggTim; what would you YOU like to us to do subject-wise?? Cheers Mark at Kotare

Thanks Guy, she’s looking more and more like a Typhoon: Hoping to make a start on the undercarriage tomorrow, but there’s quite a lot more to do on the engine then the area behind the pilot so plenty to keep me busy.

At the initial assembly stage you had to check everything very carefully, especially the joining of the plastic parts with the resin parts. For the most part I did, but I missed some things and it's now resulting in a battle for every part. The holes in the front recess do not match those on the front struts, 4mm, redone. I checked and adjusted the seating of the main struts, but when the niche was not yet in the fender. As a result, one rack stands as necessary, the second from the deformation of the resin part at an angle. Corrected this defect. Brake shields, here everything is normal, but to make them as planned originally closed did not work, the outline of the niche and shields do not coincide. In general I do not regret it so much better looks. )))) With the suspension of tanks and armament will have to work hard. There are nuances of docking .In some places will have to look for compromise solutions. Adapters for missiles glued, tried on the missiles.

I started the center pylon for the bombs. Drilled a pin to hold it in place. The lugs on the bombs do not reach the fastening in the locks. The bombs are also provided with pins for fastening. Assembled everything on the pylon. I tried the suspension to the glider.

Ready for painting

Recieved a set of updated landing gear this morning What incredible customer service from Peter. Thank you Airscale. Regards. Andy

Working on major components. Mostly dry fit at this time. Dan

Easy answer - P-38, especially an early one. That has been a GAPING hole in the 1:32 world for as long as I've been building models (50+ years). We are talking about the plane that shot down Yamamoto, and was flown by the two highest scoring American aces of WW2. The L-5 kit that Trumpeter/Hobbycraft first came out with in 1991 was welcome, but you have to have a conversion to make it an early one, and right now I'm the only one working on putting one of those cpnversions back out there (I own the rights to the Rutman/GMF one). Plus, the quality of the L-5 Trumpeter kit is not even close to your level. You guys are putting out some of the best stuff the industry has ever seen. I'd say P-51B/C as well, but chances are you'd be competing with a couple of other manufacturers who have announced plans to do that. However, you actually DO get things done, so maybe you'd beat them to the punch! I seriously think whoever puts that out first will sell as many as they can make. Those are the top 2 holes I see - there are others, but I don't want this question to turn into a wish list! I totally understand your desire to make Spitfires and 109s, as they are classics and always sell well. I love them, too. Plus, as I said, your quality is second to none, and I applaud your efforts wholeheartedly! Please do keep it up. I am kind of an odd duck in the model building world, so I'm admittedly hard to please. I have a small stash (maybe 30-35 kits), narrow interests (1:32 only), and a very limited amount of money to spend on this hobby. So, I usually don't build more than one or two kits of a given airframe. I've done Spits and 109s, because there are some very good offerings out there already, so it's difficult for me to justify spending the money on another one that will just sit on a shelf, even though I want to support your efforts. If either of those two - P-38E/F/G/H (or a better rendition of a late variant) or P-51B/C were to come out in 1:32 at any price, especially at your level of quality, my money would fly outta my wallet so fast, it would make your head spin!! Even if I had to walk to work for a month to save enough to afford it. Again, please keep up the great work, even if it's not what I personally am looking for. Your quality is amazing, and I truly want your venture to be successful. If I can be of any help, please let me know. Tim

Me too. I find the whole subject of PR fascinating, especially so since staying at Danesfield House a couple of years ago, which was PR HQ, RAF Medmenham.

Thanks for all the interest everyone -somehow the Hellcat does not seem to be all that popular in my circle, but nice to see interest in Grumman's classic! (IMHO ) FWIW, Modellbau König has the Hasegawa kit on discount and has most Trumpeter boxes for ~28€ so if anyone wants to make a duo build.... No affiliation, happy customer only. Since it was too hot to do anything outside I figured I'd do some thing on the Hellcat. I had tried Kevin's idea, which was my original plan at first, hence working so carefully to remove the fillets, but I found the glue surfaces were really thin and they would not really stick all that well. The plastic is really hard, I found the Evergreen to melt more & allow more manipulation. I do think with more care it may be possible to reuse the fillets, though. Or maybe I'm just an average modeller with too much glue & brute force At first I went with the upper wings. To get rid of the Trumpeter fuselage curve, I glued a strip of 0,5mm Evergreen underneath to act as a support to lamimate the top, but also to act as a guide. As a non-native English speaker it may be a bit hard to explain so here are some photo's, it's not really complicated. After you determine between which 2 points you need to straighten out the wing, glue the Evergreen on the underside: This should more or less follow the Hasegawa fuselage contour now. Then laminate the top with another bit of 0,5mm Evergreen -it is thin enough to bend sideways so it follows the Trumpeter curve. If it is all dry you can carefully cut along the guide you determined when glueing the first piece. The top needs another 0,25mm to be fush with the wing, but first you'll need to fix the fuselage gap since the Trumpeter wing sits lower. Turned out I did have something useful for that, although it might be a bit more work later.... I first glued some remnants of this strip (~1,2 mm thick, I lost the bag with the label) inside the fuselage as after the fillets were removed it had become really thin. This gives more glue surface. I then laminated more of those strips as you can see until there was no gap when dry fitting the wing: Which looks like this: As I wrote earlier, the upper wing needs another layer of 0,25mm Evergreen to make it level with the upper wing surface, while also closing the gap near the wing root. What I found interesting were 2 things: 1. the cowl, as you can see, seems to be a perfect fit, which is of course pleasing to see! 2. the position of the Trumpeter wing, according to the Jumpei Temma drawings, seems at first glance to be more accurate -the trailing edge in side view ends at the tail hook, making the Hasegawa wing, according to those drawings at least, sit too high on the fuselage. I'll leave it ot the Hellcate-expers to determine if this is true or not, I'm just glad I can make it work, have folded wings, and get rid of the awful Trumpeter fuselage Hope this helps!

Some progress

More printed parts. 17 inches long, 18 more to go. Ejection seats need to be reprinted, not a good print. Dan

This afternoon has been a bit of a head-scratcher involving the undercarriage and covers. Peter's wonderfully detailed u/c legs are a MUST for me, but I initially encountered a slight problem with using them alongside the other MDC parts. The parts that Peter has supplied to me are the main oleo plus an actuating arm: but the MDC u/c parts have the same, though less detailed, actuating arm. There is also a smaller arm which, on the Airscale offering is at the wrong angle to fit correctly into the MDC wheel well. So after much thought and trial fits, I have reluctantly cut off the "Airscale arm" at the indicated point: Not a lot is visible of the detailed parts so I'm ok with what I've had to do, but I'm slightly worried about the strength of the u/c structure; it's already quite a weighty model so I'll have to make sure that the oleo is firmly glued in place to take the brunt of the weight. But there's another difficulty too, the Airscale main wheel well covers, so detailed and beautifully rivetted, are considerably larger than the MDC ones: This is a shame but I'm afraid I'll have to use the original MDC ones, fortunately it appears that the Airscale oleos fit well with them: Next!!

Allright. Detail painting, and then clearcoat, let dry for couple of days now, perfect for Tamiya panel line washes, yeah looks brand new hey doesnt it...perfect canvas to work on, so yes getting closer to the real fun part that i enjoy most...yes you all guessed it, for those who know me know that lol, can spend hours. Various mediums and techniques will be used. Not sure if back cushion will be used, yes..no...yes..no

Hello everyone. Hope you're all doing well. It's been a while but work has continued gently amidst life stuff. I got the seat painted and after studying @Madmax (Sean's) build I added more detail to the head box. I've aimed for a faded, dusty look. Next up is the cockpit. Revell have done a reasonable job on the tub for the most part but the detail is a little low relief. Nevertheless, since very little can be seen I just tried to pick out the molded in detail. Detail behind the seat is pretty good but it's virtually invisible once the fuselage encloses the tub. A couple of obvious features need adding though. Aft of the seat on the starboard side is a red wheel and cable mechanism that's strangely missing from the kit. On the port side there's quite a large cylinder and cables on a shelf alongside the back of the seat that are suggested in the kit but they need beefing up. I used Airscale instrument decals on the IP Not absolutely accurate but given what will be visible eventually, good enough. Control column and pedals next. Cheers, Guy

Eduard unfortunately has a habit of printing their colored photoetch in the wrong colors for interiors especially. I carefully painted mine the correct bronze green color, to match the remainder of the cockpit: - Dennis S. Mt. Juliet, TN USA

It's been a busy couple of weeks with grandpa and then "cat-sitting" duties away from home, but over the past couple of days I have managed to get a bit more done on my Tiffy. Firstly the two vents (port) and one (stbd) were added, made from lead foil over a carved resin former: Then I spotted that the servicing picture that I'm using as a reference showed that the cannon had been removed, so I altered mine (with the CO's approval): Next up were the fishplates, the originals were sanded off when the Revell back-end was added. I scaled a photograph then made mine from Oramask, I can't say they are the exact numbers nor locations but they are there: And then I made some camouflage masks, followed by painting, but only after Jacko's Z-Zebra leading edge letters had been added: The canopy doesn't quite sit right at the moment because the "A" frame behind the pilot is marginally too high, but that will be fixed when I do all the other gubbins in that area. Talking of gubbins, I'm going to make some ground crew walkway servicing mats similar to these: And finally, the latest addition to the Typhoon library: Brilliant reference book! Bye for now.

Thanks once again Dennis and Alan, much appreciated. Found this useful reference pic last night: and whilst I had the Tiffy upside down in the jig I thought I’d test the fit of the lower parts of the Sabre. The aft end of the scoop couldn’t fit because I hadn’t cut enough of the fuselage underside away so it was out with a sharp knife and razor saw for some delicate surgery. Needs a lot of tidying up, as do the wing roots, but it’s now more promising:

I received notice the 1/32 kit was shipping while on the road, was pleasantly surprised to find it in the mail on return. Initial impression is extremely positive, having built three fisher SPADS before the fire as a benchmark, this one has extreme potential for a great build. It's next on the bench, having to work a bunch of other "gottados" before I can get to it, but the overused term "buy with confidence" seems to apply. TT modelworks has really gone out on a limb with this project, and so far I have had nothing but a positive experience! More later as I get to it...

I’m finishing things this year and all kinds of scales and genres. Salute to everyone hitting the bench hard and enjoying our unlimited hobby!

Another challenge of this project was stencils in white for SEA schemes. I learned to use a Silhouette to cut paint masks for large markings, and bought some specialty decal papers to be able to "print in white". I made these for @Dandiego's "The Iron Eyeball". SC

Choose your next words carefully @BiggTim 😁

Now I do like HpH etched brass and I think it's the best out there because it's a perfect gauge with well thought out bend positions and fits together perfectly. That is if your instruction sheet matches the parts. So lots of care is needed initially as Infinty have managed to mix part numbers between the upper and lower flaps which are slightly different and don't fit properly. Ask me how I know Once you understand the issue you will be fu e but just another unnecessary issue but very difficult to resolve once glue has been introduced. Im guessing not to many people will have a problem with this as they will never get that far. Anyway some positive progress They do look beautiful once assembled but very tricky. I woll wait overnight until I test fit the the airframe to allow the glue to fully dry. 2 down and just the 6 to go! Regards. Andy

Allright, drawn my own conclusion based on all ive found and know so far. this will all do just fine for me. even read that RLM63 were there on early ones, but not confirmed. so hey, this is it, next step protective clear coat, very very precise painstakin time with airbrush, used very little maskingtape, maskol were involved when painted the seat. so hey, looks like getting another cool aircraft in the glasscabinet. also received decals from Airscale, so can scratch that new compass instead of modelkits deformed one lol.

Not only photos on the walls P-t, but also a small bookshop where I bought this little gem:

So my cobbled together Zuni pods were kicking my rear-end. The decals for the yellow stripes weee an abject failure. Masks failed me too. Next up was chucking ‘em in a drill and painting them that way. Have never done that before and it worked a treat! FYI, it’s tough to squeeze a drill, while holding a brush nearby and take a halfway decent pic! And here they are in the LAU-10s and the starboard side. As an aside, Shrikes can have a white or black nose cone. The color was a quick reference as to which type of radar it would track - AAA or SAM radars. I don’t remember which of course, but that’s the reason for the colors Next up is remaking the UHF antenna that is behind the cockpit. Here’s Trumpeter’s offering…it’s a bit on the thick side…I’ll remake it from styrene instead. More soon, -Peter

Working on the undersides. Added some brake lines to the main landing gear and a few fuel lines inside the MLG bays. The radial engines from this time period leaked oil like sieves. The saying was that if a radial wasn't leaking oil, you better check it because it probably is empty. I used black washes and AK motor oil for the weathering. The grunge coated the underside and also the lower main landing covers (from my reference pics posted above). Not wholly satisfied with the weathering, I'll circle back and make some touchups. The landing gear was a pretty fiddly assembly. Lot of small parts, not the greatest fit and crappy instructions. I so miss working on Tamiya kits! After all that was done, added landing light lenses, the oil cooler exhaust door, lower anti-collision beacon and the airbrake (in the extended position). I've seen posts that this was never left down when the aircraft was parked but if you check out the pics posted above, you'll see an example in just that configuration. That's it for now, I'm gradually staggering to the finish line! She's finally standing on her landing gear!

So, here we are a few weeks later, and I've finally made some progress on this one! The canopy has been dipped in floor polish, masked with Bare Metal Foil, and attached with clear UV gel. The fit isn't great, so it will need some fettling. I'm hoping that the light I can now see at the end of the tunnel is in fact the one atop my spray booth... Kev

A bit more, hopefully correct, progress. The length of the main oleo is a bit of an imponderable, Peter's 3D printed ones are understandably overlength so I needed to adapt them to the MDC kit seating shape and depth within the wing. This latter aspect concerned me the most, but when thinking around it I concluded that its (most likely ) length would be determined by the other parts of the mechanism, most of which aren’t easily seen. Hopefully this pic illustrates it: If location points 1 and 2, then 3 and 4 which are moulded in the wing are right, then 5 (the MDC/Airscale interface) must be right? And this then determines how the oleo sits. I haven't really tested its strength yet...... A few pics culled and cropped from some on Ebay today: Armourers getting some 1000lbers ready for an op., 193 Squadron MN982. Two points strike me; firstly how the D obscures the middle digit of the serial number in the first photo, and in the second the port squadron codes are painted the other way round to the norm, so X-DP rather than DP-X. These codes were applied at squadron level so 193 had their own method!

Some progress; Lower surfaces painted

Tracks are complete. I used an 80 grit sanding stick to scuff up the pads and took some random chunks out of them with a hobby blade. I think looks overdone in the photo but it's more subtle in person and hopefully will be even more so after paint. Rear panel of the body is together and on the chassis. Probably can't tell at a glance but 30+ parts went into detailing it. Working on the top of the body now, which gives us the chance to see just how big this big boy is going to be (Extra Thin for scale). Last but not least the track support rollers got painted and clear coated with a touch of black wash. I think I'm go ahead and start painting the tracks and road wheels since there is going to be so much painting to put on this thing.

Hi all, The painting of the linen wrappings and metal fittings is done. 'Tamiya' Medium Blue (XF18) the sealed with Semi-Gloss clear (X35), Mike

Thanks for the messages, John, Dennis, KUROK, Richard, Sturmbock, Matt, Kevin, Michael, Mike, TankBuster, and Mal. The kit looks pretty easy to put together — lots of nice details — and with the aftermarket stuff I bought, I’m hoping to make something really sharp, especially with the NMF camo. I’ll admit, I don’t know this bird very well, so I’m not expecting 100% accuracy, but I’ll do my best. The Hasegawa kit doesn’t have many rivet lines, so before starting, I used reference plans to mark out the missing ones. The plastic is good quality — it doesn’t crack when using Rosie aka Galaxy Tools. I only added the rivet lines that seemed essential to me. I also did some tests on a mule to get the smoothest finish possible. The right wing is painted with MRP LPB, and the left one with MRP LPB + gloss black. I was inspired by John/Thunnus’s work and grabbed some Novus polish. Once the paint was dry, I polished both wings with Novus — and after a bit of work, I got this nice glossy black finish. Super happy with it — there’s no visible difference between the two wings, so for the final model, I’ll just go with MRP LPB as a primer and then polish it with Novus before using Mr. Color Super Metallic paints.

the new parts for this build will arrive tomorrow better resin and brass cores - much improved Peter

2000 copies will be produced /Niels

I wonder if the people who designed and built airplanes like these ever considered how difficult they have made our lives all these years later?

Little more scratch, added couple boxes on the leftside panel, and its done, at last primer Mr Surfacer 1200 did the job, perfect smooth surface, now let dry...