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And again the model in NMF finish. This time I'll take a break from finishing the NMF. model P-51D Trumpeter 1:24 Made straight from the box, the masks are hand made.

Hello all! the slow scratch building march begins! just have to go void by void- the cable ties are just strips of decal that go on after the harness section is in place, then a wash- you can see the difference as I plod along.

I've always had a thing for late war Luftwaffe schemes. The variety and "mix and match" components really attract me. Anyway, I stumbled upon this very interesting G-6 and had to build it. d The full page is here. http://theprofilepaintshop.blogspot.com/2013/09/bf109g-6-found-at-kassel.html BTW, I highly recommend this blog, it's got a large number of very interesting, very unique profiles. Here are a couple of pics of the real thing that were graciously provided by Anders, the creator of this blog. He also provided some pics of the aircraft just after capture when it was in better shape. Note the mix of RLM76 and late war yellow green and 81/82. You can also make out the right wing in original grey's. Obviously a rebuilt aircraft with some older components added. Left side view, note the light colored patch ahead of the number and a what appears to be a previoulsy painted out number just forward of the cross. Anyway, here are pics of the model. Base kit is the Revell Gustav which is "ok" to be charitable. I used the Alley Cat update set to address the MG issues (spacing and the bulges), they also provided a replacement oil cooler and some other small bits. Very useful. I also used the Aires cockpit which had fantastic detail but was a huge problem with regard to fitting. Also used the wonderful Barracuda resin wheels. Unlike most late war Luftwaffe aircraft that never got off the ground due to fuel shortages, Yellow 5 was a long serving combat vet and as such, I opted to dirty up the cockpit. The left wing was noted in some of the pics Anders provided to be in the late-war style of mostly NMF. The landing gear covers were removed, I'm guessing due to muddy conditions at it's airfield. This was another reason why I went heavy on the grime on the cockdpit floorboards. Love those Barracuda wheels. The spinner and props are also aftermarket, can't remember who (maybe also Barracuda?) Again, unlike many late war aircraft that never got off the ground, Yellow 5 showed quite a bit of grime (exhaust staining, oil leaks, etc. National markings were homemade stencils. A major pain but much superior to decals IMO. That blob of brown on the fuselage balkenkruz is not a spill, it was present on the real thing. The hardest part of the project was trying to replicate the exact pattern of all the paint mottling. That's it. Not perfect by any means but it was a fun project. Thanks for looking!

THAT kind of thing is my #1 problem with the internet..... Neil deGrasse Tyson said it best (paraphrasing here).....something to the effect of: "it's not that there are any more (or less) of these kind of people believing in preposterous ideas in today's modern world, it's that the internet has made it possible for all of them to find each other now." Meaning to me, there have always been whack jobs believing in idiotic ideas, but now there is a way for them to connect with each other, when prior to the internet, they were isolated in their dissolution.

a buddy of mine says “you can’t fix stupid....but you can make it quiet with a 2X4

I think you will find that's called humour/sarcasm Jennings.

Interesting - if they add a Betty carrier aircraft as little bonus

Working my way through the decals and it's really coming together now. Hoping to get the engine and guns mounted tomorrow. First time building an Albatross for me and I'd definitely recommend leaving the wings off until the undercarriage and decals are done. Makes life a lot easier.

Next are the clear parts. All except the windows behind the cockpit is masked on both sides (Montex Masks). A crossbar has been glued into the windshield. After it is painted and the masks inside are removed, metal rods strengthening this element will also be installed. I also installed the glazing behind the pilot's cabin. It wasn't quite simple - it took some grinding of the parts to make them fit, interestingly - the left one was too long by about 1 mm, and except that it fit well into the place for it. Right one - perfect for its length, but too tall for height. Nothing is obvious and simple in this model. I pushed in the small sponges between the glass and the fuselage walls so that it would not get dusty during further processing of the fuselage. At the bottom I started with the bomb racks until I realized that there would be large Dutch markings there ... I stopped and now I have to think. Not sure if I can safely remove these tiny racks not destroying them, probably some CA debonder would help but... Maybe instead of the decals I will paint these markings on using the decals as a pattern for masks. I ordered a Dutch orange paint from Hataka. Will have to sort it out somehow. Stay tuned

Loop Antenna link The fighter loop antenna has 9 inches diameter. "The loop itself is 9 inches diameter, and the unit is 14 inches high, with the base of 10 inches long, and 5.5 inches wide" "Generally, a 9-inch rotatable loop, such as the MN-20" from this Manual

Much rather have a Betty. Unsuccessful suicide machines are low on my priority list.

Hi ! I never expected that this project can take me eight years. I thought about three or four years. Of course I had breakes, holidays etc., but it was about 2500 hours of work. As base I used old Hasegawa kit, but it was only excuse to start this project, the rest is scratchbuilding. My friend, Andrzej Ziober persuaded me to show this model so strongly opened. He is precursor of cutting all structure of fuselage from kit’s moldings. First step And the final Here is the link to WIP My Boeing made the first flight to Madrid on IX model contest organized by IPMS Madrid and asociation model34. It was very interesting event, very good organised with many models on high level. Boeing received three prices, thank you Jury Oro in it’s class, Best aircraft, and Special Price from IPMS Portugal for the best model of the contest. This third is especially beautifull, special thanks for members of IPMS Portugal. So now, I need to think about new project. Thank you All for watching, support and kind words. Regards Tomasz Hajzler

Thanks again everyone. Simon, I hope you don't mind me addressing your question here so that others can see the answer. His questions was ' With your F-4, what thickness shim did you use for the outer wing angle? I can see you've shimmed it but not by how much!'. I used .02" for the shim and this is applied to the upper surface only. In addition the shim needs to taper towards the trailing edge so that it meets up properly. The issue with the shim however is that creates more gap around the 'comb' or the interlocking area on the underside of the wing. You will need to fill or adjust this so that it looks right. The angle of the outer wing is better and is closer to the actual angle. I have also advance the painting of the Aircraft by applying an intermediate blue randomly across the fuselage and highlighting some panels and framing. This followed by a desert yellow again highlighting some panels but generally kept random. And finally a first pass of Insignia White. I have intentionally left the back portion darkened as this seems to be a feature you can see when the Phantom is on its back. A quick business trip this week and then back to detailing and a final pass of the white to finish this up.. Thanks again for reading Gord

My spirit level believes the earth is flat... For some practical purposes, it is. Like for some practical purposes Pi = 3 I wouldn't use either for navigation or space travel though Richard

Hi! I visited SMW 2019 at Telford last weekend. I showed my Boeing in the contest. Model received special price, Jan Maes Trophy for the best biplane. Unfortunatly an unpleasant surprise came to me from the judges superdetailed class disqualifying my model. They claimed that it was diorama, not superdetailed model. Sad and terrifying in all this was that, despite the differing opinions of other judges, they did not change their mind. Meeting Guys from LSP who I only knew from nicknames was a great pleasure. See you on next competition. I invite on model shows in Poland. Regards Tomasz

I'm sticking a fork in this one and calling it done. Yet another perfectly good model with all kinds of potential heading off to collect dust on my shelf. Some weathering done with pastels oils and acrylics. Remember I strive for mediocrity Hope it meets approval.

Hello gentlemen, first of all I apologize for my poor English. Here are somes pictures of my Ro43 scratch-built in 1/32: For more about this: http://www.master194.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=103658 Have a nice day ! Alain

It is amazing how many folks can't grasp reality. Just look at all the folks that think the moon landings were a hoax, or that Japanese products are radioactive, or that sticky slats are airworthy, or the millions of other utterly ridiculous ideas that have always been perpetuated every single day. As the saying goes, "They walk among us..." D

He "owes" us products that it's his business decision to produce or not? How does that work?

I don't remember what are the main flaws with that kit, but what I can say is that you did an outstanding finished model, Congrats!

Yes, that's a real turn off for me too. I have no interest in making a suicide machine. It just makes me sick to my stomach to see those things, and it has always been that way. At the rate ZM operates, this will hit the shelves in a decade. He still owes us an entire FW-190 family of kits!

I used to read an average of one science fiction novel every day and still made it through High School and two Universities. Now we have the internet where everything that is written down or portrayed on video is absolutely true. I don't need as much science fiction anymore. Tnarg

Just got back from seeing it. I went in with really low expectations, thinking it would be another "Pearl Harbor" sh*tshow. Turns out, it actually does a pretty good job of depicting the first 6 months of the Pacific war. As much as it's titled "Midway" it's really a decent beer n' pretzels-level overview of 12/7/41 - 6/4/42. Yeah, the flight scenes are over the top, but they serve to draw the general audience in and aren't distracting enough to turn off a curmudgeon like me. A couple interesting points: They glossed over the whole "let's bait the Japanese into telling us where AF is by faking a failure of the desalinization plant" bit. Layton seems surprised. Odd. In a case of art mimicking life, the Wildcat is an utter write-off. Not a single one makes an appearance. Amazingly, the B-26 Marauder does. I love the that the dive bombers seem to descend at a leisurely ~200fpm. Cessna 172's dive faster. Quaid did a good job of portraying Halsey. Harrelson did farily well with Nimitz too. The USS Nautilus makes and appearance, which was a surprise. Anyway, the movie was utterly panned in this very thread before its release, and I'll admit, I wasn't too excited about it. I suppose that could be part of the reason why I was so pleasantly surprised by it. It's worth the time and the money, in my opinion. As an aside, my eight year old, who is an airplane nut, was absolutely thrilled with it.

Some more lumps and excrescences: The leather straps are from the HGW etch, and very nice too Richard

Well we all know not to go there, but the idea does carry across many of lifes different arenas, and unfortunately people now a days seem to somehow falsely believe that science, facts and sound evidence are all debatable. I genuinely (and literally) hear myself muttering to myself on a daily basis in every type of thing I do, "were all doomed.....should just leave this world behind" - to quote Dary from Letterkenny

Yep, and you can say the same about whacked out political views as well.

I'd venture to say that if a model company wanted the Do 17, we'd have one. Maybe hobbyboss/trumpeter.

Because they were announced. Lighten up just a tad. Back on track.... the Ohka not so interesting, unless one wants to model that particular aspect of the WWII Japanese military mindset. I'd rather see almost anything else from that time frame.

All done Build thread here: Very hard to photograph being so large... Surprising how different the colours look with a differing background... And, again, don’t usually do black & white for aircraft, but it kind of suits the aircraft... Thanks for following along, Guy

Hi all! I painted the tires with my usual mix of Extra Dark Sea Grey (Hu.123) and Matt Black (Hu.33)…. More detail painting in the cockpit…. It was a chore painting all those small switches, It made me cross-eyed! I went bananas with the wash, Artist´s oil paint, (50/50 Lamp Black/Burnt Umber) and mineral spirits) in the front wheel compartment, but I think It looks alright. Not as much in the cockpit…. More to come soon….. Stefan

Some details on the central part of the upper wing: Have a nice day !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hello, a little tired with the wings : The floats. The largest come from Arado 196 B by Revell. It has been shortened reduced in height but widened and the bottom vacuformed. Thanks to Revell France after sale service. For the small floats, plugs in balsa. 1 mm plastic card is used. To follow............

I was surprised how well taken care of the seams were by the time I got my primer coat on. Only a very little remedial sanding was necessary to remove some excess filler. I have always used Badger Stynylrez for my primer. It sprays ok straight out of the bottle, but I have had much more success recently by adding some Vallejo airbrush flow improver and a couple drops of Mission Models thinner. It levels very well sprayed on thick, but it is just perfect if you thin it a little bit. So after a nice smooth coat of black primer, on with the medium sea grey marble coat. Applied with my new toy! Love the H&S, and love the Grex MAC valve. It's really nice not having to get under the table and mess with the pressure at the compressor. Also really nice is that you can vary the pressure at the trigger with the H&S. I would not say I can do it in any sort of reproducible way, and the MAC valve is still my primary way of adjusting air pressure, but you can get some variation. I think I ended up over blending. I applied my first blend coat, then did some post-shading, then another blend coat. Since MRP goes on so thin anyway, I didn't thin it, and it washed out all my detail. It looks better than the picture shows, which I tried to capture with the second photo, but still not exactly how I would have wanted it. For the camo, I'm going to thin my blend coats and see how that goes.

A small step forward: In place the third windshield, the second (wrong) is in front and the first is in the trash can !

It remains to reproduce the wavy effet on the tips and add some détails. According to the plan, it's good enough for me. Nice weekend !

Hi, I'm lucky, I got this light wave effect. In some points, I put to much plastic glue and I have to fill them. The lighty wave effect on the wings compared to the fuselage more pronounced. The wing is light but rather solid to do that. The dihedral remains flat. Don't forget, it's just a game !

Many thanks to you !!!! Wings' construction : I used 1 mm strong metal rods to secure the wings. 1 mm is the inner diameter of the 2,4 mm Evergreen tube used as spars. Four screws are sufficient to fix it to the cockpit floor. The skin is made by vacuforming card using carved wood (balsa). And the fillets: plastic card and Milliput. Structure of the wings: ribs are 3D printed by my friend Bernard. To strengthen I added to the Evergreen tubes one stainless steel tube (1,5 mm) The skin is made by only one piece of 0,25 mm card wrapped around, glued step by step (1, 2,3,...) Then the trailing edge is cut (4) and a plastic strip is added (5) to have a sharp and solid edge. To follow

Good deal. Happy to be of service.

Is this what you're after? Now the question is, on 2 Jan 67 when Olds flew it, did 680 have the RHAW on the tail, the donkey dick under the nose, and the later AF style inboard pylons? We will likely never know with 100% certainty, although the pics posted here earlier, if actually taken on that day, plus the evidence of Keith Ferris's painting of '680 seem to indicate that the RHAW and donkey dick weren't fitted.

I'm pretty sure a Do17 would go down well and is not too difficult to produce in 1/32... just remember, there are no remaining factory plans and no remaining examples of the Fokker Dr1 and yet we have how many kits in how many scales?? Regards, Marc.

The Ohka is certainly well known because of that mindset that certainly shocked the western civilization that is ours. So a kit of this tiny aircraft (piloted missile) is not surprising but it is up to each to decide what one wants to build. A member of our modeling club had been bombed by the Luftwaffe when, as a child, was trying to escape advancing German troops in 1940. He simply did not build any military subjects. Alain

As always, so much to admire.

The first part of this (re)build will be a bit hodge podge. Where I can easily remove kit plastic parts to replace with more detailed PE parts, I will. But, I'm not going to stress too much about it if an injection-molded part is used. I'm not a rivet counter, nor am I overly obsessed with details and having everything just perfect. Ejector pin marks in hard-to-reach, and hard-to-see places don't bother me. In the end, as long as the final product looks like a decent rendition of 41-2446 as she would have looked sitting on the ramp at Garbutt Field, I'm happy. One benefit to having no references of the real aircraft is that I get a bit of creative license. I have quite a bit of aftermarket interior parts to use on this build. I bought the Big Ed interior set from Eduard, along with a set of brassin wheels, and .50 cal gun barrels. The kit barrels are garbage. After organizing all the plastic, here is a shot of the aftermarket. Having slogged through an intense amount of PE on my 1/144 USS Chevalier last summer, PE doesn't really scare me like it used to. That said, soldering still escapes me, so every bit of PE you see will be constructed and affixed with super glue. If it worked on the Chevalier, it'll work here. As with any aftermarket, I usually start with the instructions. This took a bit as I had to go over the plastic, what I'd built, what needed to be built, and determine what could be removed and what could stay. Anything circled will be added, anything crossed out will remain a kit part that's already in place. The highlighted parts are unpainted PE parts that need to be stuck in place and painted prior to adding any of the pre-painted bits from the PE sets. Another boneheaded lesson I learned on a different kit a few years ago. (sigh^2) First, I removed any parts that would be replaced by PE or that would hinder painting the floorboards. And so my PE journey and the rebirth of the 41-2446 in 1/32 form begins with a humble start. Some quick detail added to the overhead ammo can for the left cheek gun. So far, I'm pretty happy with the Eduard PE set. It's clean, bends well, and the instructions are decent. My only gripe is that it really should have been marketed as a detail kit for the B-17F, not the "B-17E/F" as all of the instructions are shown for the F-model with the larger cheek windows. Thus, I'm left to guessing quite a bit on the internals and where parts go or don't go. Here's an ammo box holder for the bulkhead below the pilots' feet. I need to go out and get some ultra-thin superglue as having it would have made that rear join much cleaner. Oh well. The pic makes it looks worse than it is, and once it's installed, that tiny gap will be invisible. Here is the progress I've made thus far. Again, I'm starting with the unpainted stuff that will need to be painted along with the interior bulkheads. Once those are all painted, I'll slap on the Eduard pre-painted stuff. So far, so good. I'll be approaching this just like I did my Chevalier... one section at a time. I intend to treat each compartment as its own mini-project, a tactic aided by the breakdown of the Eduard kits. Stay tuned, I'm hoping to have a couple updates a week as I push through this project.

I feel Radu's influence - I have a set of his wonderful, and accurate, Bf-109G drawings, his resin Ar-234 is utterly superb, and following on from the Revell P-51D, we now have the much desired B/C, can't wait!

And with permission, I'm excited to share what can be achieved with the ZM Jumo 004 engine out of the box. Here are some shots of Jeff Cadenhead's beautiful engine from his Horten kit. Note that the black heat shields are added. The black lines on my engine above correspond to where the shield sits. Note also the engine stand here - the parts for the stands are cleverly molded as part of the sprues holding the engine pieces! These 4 photos copyright Jeff Cadenhead August 2014, used with permission.