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  1. airscale

    1/18 Hawker Fury

    evening folks Hi Jay - so the blisters are done by first making an acrylic perspex buck - I find this good solid stuff that is easy to work, but takes the punshment of being worked on I use paper templates to get two of the axis right - plan & side and then just sand & shape ..then a bit of annealed litho is taped on one edge and the metal worked over the buck with a balsa block until it loosely conforms, then any kinks or ripples are worked out with a tiny hammer, and finally the shape fully tightened to the shape, particular
    32 points
  2. alain11

    Mirage 2000 C KH

    Hi gents here are a few photos of my Mi 2000 . I was not very keen about the kit , indeed the comments were not positive , a so kind of " tote bag " . But WIP after WIP , the challenge was worth it , and after all , I didn't want to be choosy , who would have bet for a Mirage 2000 at this scale a few months ago ??? photos have been taken with my phone ... enjoy .... or not !!!! thank you Nick for your help Alain
    26 points
  3. Hi everyone, Finally finished this Trumpeter kit, and my last model for a while I think now that summer is beginning to appear. I thought the 2 seater version of the A-10 would make quite an unusual model and something a bit different. It was quite an involved build, so I took my time. I went for a "flipper" paint scheme which isn't accurate to this particular A-10, but I thought it more interesting than the original dark grey. I changed the instrument panel in the front to a coloured photo etched one I had, but the rear one is as it came out the box - no detail at all
    25 points
  4. Hello all- all of this so far with Vallejo colors- the seat harness in black and then dry brushed. I use a small chisel tip brush to accurately (as possible) do the dry brush steps- The helmet visors start out black, then get a coat of Tamiya clear green, and then a few coats of Future Here you can see the slight difference between the figure on the right which has received an overall wash/filter, and the one on the left which has not- thanks for checking in! cheers Pete
    24 points
  5. airscale

    1/18 Hawker Fury

    thanks chaps ..just a quick one I cut away the under fuselage to allow mating of the rad structure - the roof of the rad intake at the front seems also to have some sort of slat arrangement, but I only have a couple of oblique photos to work from so imagineered this bit.. ..also the flat panel in front of it was let in by using a template glued on to cut away the skinning and then some work to flatten the underlying structure before adding a more detailed panel.. TTFN Peter
    23 points
  6. Started with the two pilots. assembly- gaps filled with either JB Weld or Apoxie Sculpt Then a shot of Tamiya deck Tan then a dry brush of a lighter version of deck tan More multicam camo. First the light green. Also, I find it easier to paint the black cable on top of the helmet first, and then come in right next to it with the overall helmet color- much easier than trying to pick out a skinny cable with a small brush after the helmet is painted- then dry brush the light green more to follow-
    22 points
  7. Good Morning all. I would like to introduce myself. I tried once before on these forms, but the project stalled indefinitely, and I'm not much for posting WIP threads. I have been following along builds here for many years, and I think LSP is my favorite modeling forum by far. You folks are some of the kindest and most talented modelers out there. A little about me, I grew up in my dads local hobby store and have been building for most of my life. I have always done 1/48 scale models, and felt it was time to jump into something a little bigger. I bought this kit when it fist came o
    21 points
  8. Hey all- Here are a few shots of the completed Pavehawk. Link to build is here: Build link to the figures is here: Figures I started the figures before I had the kit. The first post about the figures was 25 April 2019- a two year project from start to finish. Following photos were shot by Rick Ciaburri: thanks for looking! cheers Pete
    21 points
  9. Same with the dark green and the light brown
    21 points
  10. Scale: 1/32 Kit: Trumpeter Aircraft: AV-8B Harrier Unit: USMC VMA 311 Tomcats Aftermarket: Aerobonus Pilot with Seat Paint: Ammo by MiG Jinenez, Vallejo, Tamiya Weathering: Flory Models Washes, Oilbrusher Ammo, Panel Line Wash Ammo I am pleased to present you latest finished model. It is the Trumpeter rendering of the Harrier. No alterations made, straight OOB with only the addition of an Aerobonus (Aires) pilot with seat as the kit seat really did not look proper. I am doubting the helmet used on the figure fits the era, (I would prefer the pilot to h
    20 points
  11. Well I was gonna say there was already a hole there... “Butt” less work for me to do it this way- the boot would be more humane, but then I’d have to clean up the hole- the bottom of the boot will show for sure- sometimes sacrifices must be made in the name of modeling! cheers Pete
    20 points
  12. Hi, time to resume this build. I am working on the shoulder armor: Making a template from styrene: Cutting the part from 1mm alu sheet. Using a template for bending after anealing the center portion of the plate: The armor in detail: Bye for now!
    20 points
  13. Hey all- been farting around with this new project. The Kitty Hawk MH-6M Little Bird. What pushed me over the edge were the outstanding figures that Yaroslav at Live Resin created for this kit. Six figures total; 2 stick actuators and four SF riders. but more than anything, it was this particular figure right here. I love this pose..Holding on to the fast rope cage and outrigger platform- perfect for an inflight display so I’ll use all six figures for this one- first things first- I needed to open up the crew compartment door area- Here
    19 points
  14. This is the 1/32 A-6 intruder with a lighting chip, allowing all lights to function out side and in the cockpit. Along with Reedoak figures I also used and the verlinden mule, and the Eduard mer pods ,this is all then painted with Tamiya acrylics. Its a good kit overall, it has its dowe points, but mainly a lot of up points, I have another one to build later in the year so I am already looking forward to this any way enjoy The Grumman A-6 Intruder is an American twinjet all-weather attack aircraft developed and manufactured by American aircraft company Grumman Aerospace that was
    18 points
  15. Hi, This is 1/32 Hasegawa Focke Wulf Fw 190F-8 with the markings of Black M – I (W.Nr 584 205) of III./SG 3 flown in Sweden May 1945. Top surfaces are RLM 75/83 with RLM 02 patches and bottom surfaces RLM 76. Modifications are: Eduard Löök instrument panel and seat belts. Quickboost exhausts Eagle Parts wheels Henri Dahne propeller & spinner set Paints: Gunze Sangyo acrylics Decals: “M-I” markings are from "Kagero Fw 190 Monograph Vol 3". Happy modelling
    18 points
  16. Hi Matt, I grabbed the MH-6 update set from Black Ops Models. The set is for the Dragon kit(s) vs. the Kitty Hawk kit that I’m using. Not sure how much of it I’m going to use yet, but I’ve pretty much decided to use the main cabin bulkhead and seats- I think I can get them to fit without too much aggravation- here is a comparison of Kitty Hawk on the left and Black Ops on the right. Same bulkhead; cockpit side and cabin side. In the first photo, the details of the Black Ops item look like they were molded at an angle. They’re not, it’s just a weird camera thing- c
    18 points
  17. Black and white added, plus web gear started- Then a very thin overall wash-
    17 points
  18. Nothing I can take credit for, but a test print for sizing is on it's way to me to trial... Didnt Kerry do a great job? Imagine what this will look like in a hi-res print? Thanks so very much Kerry, but also those involved who are helping with photo's, drawings, encouragement as well as offers with their high end printers to help make this happen. As you can see they are highly accurate. I just hope I can do it justice when I get a final print and paint it nicely! Cheers Anthony
    16 points
  19. A little more done and decided to paint the flaps as they where up when the FAA scheme went on so painted the intermediate blue details on And decals on Need to get the engine completed and closed up up next, decals performed superbly with micro set/ sol so very happy. Regards. Andy
    16 points
  20. Hi friends Here is the last Bulgarian mig-21 UM that was in flight The build was inspirited by this plane: The model is 1/32 scale trumpeter kit. I build the bird without any AM, used only re-works and scrach. The paints are from tamiya, aqua-gunze, alclads, oils and acrylic pencils. The cyrilic label over all of the back means: "50 years in the service of Bulgaria" Unfortunately no more flying 21's here at BG . . . How ever, here are the pics of the birdy. Hope you will like her:
    15 points
  21. I know Matt, he still has a really good printer. Just a quick teaser of the test print offered up as I am running late for work.... Some tweaks to be made but pretty close for a first go! Cheers Anthony
    15 points
  22. 14 points
  23. Ok, made a new part from thin sheet. The actual armor plate will follow. Bye for now!
    14 points
  24. I'm often asked for a size reference.Maybe this may help: Anyway, that's all I have for now but I'll update once I'm fully finished the trenches. Thanks for stopping by and for those who are actually still following this - you get an extra thanks for your enduring patience with me while I fumble my way through this Till next time! Si
    14 points
  25. Hi here is the third part of my Nimrod build. I did not get very far because I made a mess of things on the underside and got too much into small details where I made scratch build versions of PE and 3D parts. I used slow setting CA glue to glue the body together working in small parts at a time. But I missed a beat on the front just behind the radiator. I thought that I held the part long enough but it changed position and I had a step. And just at a place littered with raised rivets. So, I needed to make a new part. Then I noticed on the photographs that there was a fairing behind the radiat
    14 points
  26. Another Bf 106 finished. Project 12. 1/32 Hasegawa model, Aires cockpit, exhaust & wheels HGW wet transfers Painting mask Propeller 77 & Homemade All colours MRP
    13 points
  27. This is what I managed to build from the huge box almost 2 years ago. Gotha G.I 42/15 Feodora. Not an easy build at all, especially when one faces the unusual for WNW faults in manufacture - misaligned mould halves leading to some severe sanding work - all the bits required a lot of treatment. Especially thin lines/cables/pipes... Anyway, still, when the parts are cleaned what remains is a set of quite finely fitting elements - quite a bonus when one takes into account the unorthodox form of this aircraft. All in all, I am very happy to have this weird bird in my cabinet.
    13 points
  28. It's been a while hasn't it! Fishing season kicked off for me with a mid-week hooky session at my favorite lake. So much fun! I ended up with 61 largemouth bass topped by a 5.75 pound kicker... With the fishing stuff at the forefront, the modeling stuff kept percolating in the back of my mind. I finally pushed myself to sit at the model bench and get started on some spraying. The D-13 is sitting in a post-factory state and the task before me now is to put on the field-applied mottle of dark greens, which I've chosen to be RLM 82 and 83. I thought a good way to re-in
    13 points
  29. So, more work for the RLM. In order to glue the lower wing, it was time to get busy on the wheelbay. The ammo chute was lengthened and the hole in the bay where it protrude was made an actual hole. Ejection pins were patiently filled and sanded, needless to say the boredom it brings.. And the plumbing was lenghtened to actually goes somewhere (in the hole of course) Having skipped to take pics during the assembly phase, lets jump straight to the result. Should I have to redo this, i would invest in PE sheet to busy up the rear spar. With this last
    13 points
  30. So this is what it looks like with the clearcoat on and all the tape removed. There's some annoying aliasing of the white layer under the red tail. Not much I can do about that now. In the future I guess the ideal approach would be to unmask and re-mask offset by just a fraction of a millimeter before painting the second color. Because these should definitely take me longer to complete than they already do... A different angle. One positive is that there's basically zero paint overspray anywhere on the Alclad - so that's a win for trying to be thorough/careful
    13 points
  31. Kerry is now working on the new Spey Vari-ramps, shape and hole perforations are very different to the US ones... This is the preliminary shaping, a lot more to go...
    13 points
  32. The engine Inbetween finishing up the Zipper and a lot of stuff at work the Wildcat's engine recieved some paint. Alclad Aluminium for the cylinders, Tamiya black for the push rods and Gunze H308 (should be close to engine grey) for the crankcase. The next task can be seen right in the background: the ignition. I added the one piece spark plugs from Anyz and the braided line 'copper' - well more like yellowish brass Since the engine isn't really visible once the cowling and prop are on, this was used as a testbed for future builds. What w
    12 points
  33. Just to prove this build is still happening Been a bit busy at work, but managing to get the odd hour or so to build when the household is asleep at night! The IP and extra's are ready for painting/finishing. Built the cockpit lamps and the Quickboost Revi 12C sight, all wired and pinned. Some of the other elements I've been busy on. Replaced the seat adjustment lever with some brass details and rod/Albion Alloys tubing. The brass radio racks are from an old detail set, practiced my soldering skills to assemble them, but not sure if I'll be using them in the end. MG-FF rack is b
    12 points
  34. I decided to actually mix up some 5-minute epoxy to attach the engine/cowl and the landing gear, in the interest of maximum strength for the bond. Here are the rest of the bits and bobs that attach underneath the airframe. For both the drop tank and the tail hook I drilled and ran a piece of wire into the part and drilled a corresponding hole into the fuselage (same as I did with the LG) to add strength to the bond. For anyone contemplating this kit I would recommend doing this all over the place - the kit provides little dimples to indicate where parts are to go, but there
    12 points
  35. Good news! Pete and I will be collaborating on producing an eBook of his build for KLP Publishing. It won't be super soon, as I have a number of projects ahead of it in the queue, but we've already got the cover nailed, so the rest should be easy! Stay tuned to the KLP website or Facebook page (and here on LSP) for more news as it happens. Kev
    12 points
  36. So I tried lining the side markings up in Illustrator (easy with guides) and applying them as a unit with transfer tape. Everything I tried was too sticky and wouldn't let go of the 810 no matter what. I finally got fed up with the mess and decided to go with an old method I tried with the Mustang. I painted some clear decal sheet with white first then a section in red and another in black. Then cut those out on the Cameo. Muuuch easier (for me) although the black cross is made up of 6 decals each , it came out pretty clean. So first had to do the strip again , then
    12 points
  37. Not being able to let the German floatplanes go, I'm preparing for the release of Lukgraph's Friedrichshafen FF.33 L within the next couple of weeks. Friedrichshafen FF.33's at Zeebrügge. One of the characteristic features of the German Navy at Zeebrügge are the distinctive Rail Cars for transporting the planes and I've been thinking of scratch building one of those for some time now. This means I've started this project backwards trying to figure out how those 'Trolleys' would have been put together.
    12 points
  38. Out2gtcha

    JetMads 1/32 Viggen

    100%. Honestly I have no clue where all the scepticism on this kit is coming from. Not only do I personally know two people with a Sky Streak kit from them, but there was even one built right here on LSP. As was stated the major companies with a CRAP ton of money have delays worse than this ALL the time yet I rarely ever here anyone say that it wasn't going to come to fruition. From the get go myself, I have felt this kit will 100% come to fruition. I guess I just don't get it..... There is all of ZERO evidence this is a scam, yet an ab
    12 points
  39. Hi all, This ‘Special Hobby’ (Kit No:SH32064) model represents a Fokker D.II, serial number not known, attached to ‘Kampfeinsitzer Stafflen’ (Kesta) 4b sometime between April 1917 - October 1918 at Royal Bavarian AF, Freiburg. Figures ‘Kellerkind Miniature’ Germane engine crew (54101), ‘Wings Cockpit’ figures - seated LSK pilot (LSK 04A). Decals ‘Aviattic’ WW1 Fokker ‘streaked’ camouflage (ATT32058), ‘Aviattic’ Linen Weave effect (ATT32236) ‘Airscale’ WW1 instrument decals (AS32 WW1), ‘Xtradecal’ Parallel Stripes (Black XPS1) ‘Xtradecal’ Parallel Stripes (White XP
    12 points
  40. Project 13. 1/32 Hasegawa model, Aires cockpit, wheels $ exhaust, Eduard Look. Panting mask homemade & Propeller 77. EagleCals #42. All colours MRP
    11 points
  41. Hi Alan, 1. Not all Turks are Muslim. 2. Not all Muslim Turks are religiously observant. 3. There is, generally speaking, no prohibition against working during Ramadan, though many observant (and non-observant) people of the faith do take some time off from work during the celebration of Eid, which begins in mid-May. There’s no reason to think that this delay is caused by anything other than some Jetmads staff contracting a potentially life-threatening disease. I hope they get well and get back to the work they enjoy. “Be patient” is wise counsel.
    11 points
  42. JefH

    Eduard BF-109 E4

    Hello again. First busy work week in a while, so not really that much bench time. But did manage to chip away at a few small projects. Gave the propeller, hub, and landing gear a coat of Alclad light shine and followed up with some weathering. I also hit the 109 with a coat of Alclad matte finish. I also removed the window masking since I've had bad experiences leaving montex masks on too long. Once again they left a fair amount of residue which I removed with an automotive bug and tar remover. I usually like to keep the canopies ope
    11 points
  43. Unfortunately my canopy cracked but fortunately Stenka from Cold War Studio has rescued the project by very quickly mailing me a replacement, corrected clear-cast canopy. Really fantastic customer support from CWS! Here is a magnified shot of the nose section. I elected to use the Master pitot, I then had to scratch those little vortex generators since the ones supplied by Master didn't precisely fit the pitot attachment I made. Very tricky and next time I'll just use the Zacto part. Cheers, Ma
    11 points
  44. Build thread here: I’m declaring today. I lost my metal pitot (grrr) so the kit one is in kind of droopy while I wait for replacement from Poland! Also added an Eduard Litening pod, apart from that and the Quickboost seats it’s out of the box. I need a way of doing the det cord but am too scared to try by hand. Might try and find some decals for the seats as surprisingly kit didn’t have any. Hope some of my worse modelling sins aren’t too obvious!
    10 points
  45. Hawkwrench

    LSP Engines

    Here's the main rotor head of my MH-60L special operations helicopter. (It is driven by the engines), does that count??? Tim
    10 points
  46. Next step is one I was not looking forward to - trimming and working with the vac form canopy. The vac form parts are supplied by ScaleWorx as a single section, the modeller having to separate the windshield from the canopy and then trim to fit. The vac form parts are nice and thin and clear. They are also tolerant of the abuse taken when manhandling them in the process of removing excess material. I used a dremmel tool with a small sanding bit. Way better than trying to score and cut with a sharp knife. Just keep the speed to medium and work slowly without too much pressure. Loose
    10 points
  47. Thank you, everyone. Yes, the engine enhancment bits are from Taurus. Great stuff, very highly recommended. Yesterday night I also managed to build the engine into the truss, which had to be detached from the left side fuse half to allow adding some weathering, a couple of fuel connections and the throttle linkage. Then the last glimpse and the fuse was closed. I suppose I will leave the engine covers off so that one can catch a glimpse of these engine details. Now for some minor treatment of seams.
    10 points
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