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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/19/2020 in all areas

  1. Gentlemen, as usual, your kind comments make my day and keep me motivated - thanks a lot! Chuck, Scooby actually survived the drone program and resides in a museum; sadly, it has lost its last identity as it was repainted in VMFA-333 colours. At least the airframe did survive... This is how it looks now: Let's get back to the model itself. The next step was to mask and paint Scooby's signature sharkmouth. Again, I used homemade masks cut on my Silhouette Portrait. The painting sequence is not ideal as painting white first caused white flashing through at
    33 points
  2. This is a cool looking airplane, although it never made production or even a prototype was ever built, i fell in love because is something new and different , this is the first model produced by a new manufacturer, DAS WERK , and the wood texture decals were made exclusively for it by uschi van der rosten. When you compared to a P-51D, this was i really small airplane as you can see in the last picture. i call it the ancestor or the grandpa of the A-10 by the position of the pulse jet engines and the twin rudder Jorge
    31 points
  3. Hello, everyone. This is my completed vignette that I’m calling, “The Avengers of Guadalcanal.” During the long, grueling campaign for the Solomon Islands, Allied and Japanese forces threw themselves at each other for months. Pitched night naval battles, furious aerial melees, and bitter ground combat were the brutal hallmarks of what I feel was truly the turning point in the Pacific War. By November 1942, American forces were desperately holding on to Henderson Field on Guadalcanal in an effort to keep the Cactus Air Force flying. One of the many units fed into the grinder w
    28 points
  4. Dear LSP team. I am happy to present the latest finished model. Its the 1/32 Hawk Mk.1 of the Finnish Air Force. Kit: Revell Scale:1/32 Aftermarket: CMK Instrument panels, Quickboost Seats, Avalon Decals Paints: Ammo, Vallejo, Future Weathering: Flory Models Washes, Ammo Oilbrushers Base made by my friend Martin Kunc The kit has its issues however does fall together fairly well. Its Revell and its simplified in some areas but I believe the kit does capture the shapes of the real aircraft well. For those who wish to go to town on superdetailing this kit provides a good
    27 points
  5. How about gloss black!? As I have mentioned too many times, I like to use Tamiya Gloss Black Lacquer (TS-14) as a base whenever I can, for two main reasons: 1) It reveals every single tiny flaw, so I can fix them early 2) It provides a primer coat for Alclad paints to stick to This paint also attracts dust like crazy, both before and after painting due to the glossy finish and static electricity it creates, especially in our dry climate during winter. A modeling friend of mine said that the Car Guys who paint glossy finishes al
    25 points
  6. nmayhew

    P-47D 406FG Ashford, Kent

    Couldn’t resist a few shots of it almost complete definitely feels like a Big Jug now! have given it a Matt coat top and sides only at this stage weathering next, including oils probably
    23 points
  7. Hello all, New on the forum, glad to share my latest finished model from Academy with only a few extras (resin cockpit and WB, decals). Being a fan of the Tomcat and beginner with airbrush, this kit was dedicated to train myself about US Navy jet painting before I go ahead with an F-14.. Hope you like it, ready for any comments!
    21 points
  8. Well title says it all. 6-10 is depicted at a later time (due to the pictues I have) as can be seen on the tail. Eduard kit plus Alleycat conversion, I really cannot say enough good about these Alleycat conversions - wow, they are good. Actually easier to replace the entire nose with a huge (and real nice) piece of resin that actually building the Eduard kits nose... HGW belts and Aires (or was it quickboost?) wheels were the only addition. All marking painted on. Scanned the decal sheet and made masks. Hope you enjoy
    20 points
  9. Thanks Guys! Funny, I was afraid to start painting (as always), but once I start, it's addictive! The first coat of gloss black was mostly to reveal flaws, blemishes, seam remnants, etc. Despite my prior attempts to eliminate same, this model still had plenty of them, so it was back to sanding! That big one on the wing I showed above, but I also had a long seam-line on the top of the fuselage, along with the usual crap and other small boo-boos. After removing all the dust, it was back to the spray booth. All better now.
    19 points
  10. October 19/20 With all the major components of this build complete, it’s now time to prep the model for painting. After a lot of bad experiences with leaking masks and tiny parts that don’t fit, I now have a method that reduces the occurrence and stress of these events happening again. Not much that I will show will be new to you and they are old tricks that I have learned from others, but you may find something here that could be helpful on your next project. The first step has been done already. During assembly, I have painted within the front intake and the
    19 points
  11. October 21/20 Thanks guys. Painting gloss black has been a long journey where I’ve made a lot of mistakes, so here are some tips: 1. Start with a very smooth plastic finish. Primers will help, but I never use them because I don’t like to fill any detail. If you have scratches you want filled in, sand them instead. 2. Wipe the model down with Tamiya lacquer thinner, to remove any oils from your skin. 3. I can’t speak for acrylics, but a good lacquer gloss paint is easier to use than a gloss enamel, because it sprays on thi
    18 points
  12. Dear fellow modellers, I have been absent from the bench (not from LSP, but in "read only" mode) for about three years. There were more important things to take care of and my mojo ... oh, well, I guess you all know what I'm talking about. Anyway, I'm back but progress on the Viggen will be slow nevertheless. I've been working on the thrust reverser section, namely on the aluminium parts that will make up the inner and outer panels. Outer panels: Inner panels: If you are familiar with the Viggen thrust
    18 points
  13. One more quick update. I've been a modeling fiend the last few days, partly because I will be having Carpal Tunnel surgery on my right hand tomorrow. If all goes as well as my left hand surgery exactly a month ago, I should be back in the modeling saddle in about a week. All shiny black things must come to and end. The gloss black helped me correct small flaws, and now it's the primer coat for Alclad Dark Aluminum. This coat is admittedly blotchy, mostly because you will never see most of it again after final paint. It is here for future paint chipping and to lighten the paint
    17 points
  14. airscale

    1/18 Hawker Fury

    evening folks Thank you for all your kind comments – I will try and live up to them! Thanks Les - I don't know about this process, I guess I am going to need to get on google as I would love to be able to make brass look like any silver metal as will be seen later.. thanks for the tip Yep - just regular CA - I cut it with a slitting disc and wear a mask as I expect the dust is bad for you, but for assembly & shaping it's a lot like very hard plastic Hi Craig - love what you are doing on the B17 - that is next
    16 points
  15. Drop tank... Eduard bombs almost done... Went with DG landing gear, chipped Eduard wheels - even though hubs too small Hs chipping on wing stripes
    15 points
  16. OK you guys, what do you think about this panel line wash color? Is it too dark? Of course it will tone down with more weathering.
    15 points
  17. Thanks Tom! It's great to finally be getting something akin to some finished surfaces somewhere on the model! Slowly but surely, the challenge is going to be the compound curves when they pop up! Started on the inner forward panels. It took a while to work out where the fuel filler caps and the access ports for checking the quantities in each tank went. There's also even MORE rivets on each panel in this section. First one is down though, with the rest through the curio and waiting to be cut out. The likelihood of stuffing one of t
    15 points
  18. Just caught this on Chad Summers' Flying S Models YouTube channel: Kev
    14 points
  19. Been wanting to replace the 2004 Tacoma for a while. Found this absolutely *cherry* 2018 Colorado Z71 that’s so clean and pristine it was impossible to pass up. Only 19,000 miles on it, and my mechanic took a look and said he didn’t think it had ever been put into 4wd!
    14 points
  20. Last time I posted images of the fuselage modifications I was measuring up/cutting the front lower fuselage ready for the missile trough insert. This is were we are now - dry fitted, but great fit: The front cockpit coaming from the kit has been removed so that I can add the Aires resin cockpit. Fit is excellent - only needing a few 'ledges' removing from the kit fuselage insides, and material removing from the bottom of the tub casting to enable it to clear the nose gear bay from the kit. All tight - but perfect alignment:
    14 points
  21. Stencils on prop...
    14 points
  22. All markings custom masks from TopNotch Got the whites a bit wrong in the star and bar and have subsequently changed them but overall pretty pleased with the look it’s a big beast!
    14 points
  23. Ha! It is a shame to paint over it sometimes. Here are a few prior examples that were black for only a short time. Note the moulding flaws next to the aileron. Cheers, Chuck
    14 points
  24. Thanks Derek! Well, whilst not perfect, I feel I am close enough considering it is a 'press fit' still that I am nearly there. I can fine tune later after gluing and fix panel lines/fasteners at that point Time to make some templates up and finish off the other side.... I am trying to ignore the louvered panel above the reheat can But I know I am going to need to deal with that somehow...another day LOL Cheers Anthony
    13 points
  25. Thanks boys! Got a slow start to paint last night, and got the base insignia white on for the base of the home defense bands. I'll be putting the base white for the leading edge bands on after a later base of aluminum: The white really messed with the balance since the rest of it was all black. On to painting the Hinomaru, fuselage stripe and 53rd Sentai ans 93 on the tail. Then its on to an aluminum layer then the yellow leading edge stripes and camo. Cheers!
    13 points
  26. Hello, Yesterday I got PE seatbelts and metal barrels. I found two ammo boxes with Tamiya ammo belts in scrapbox so I'll use them for Lysander. Machinegun pivot arm is made from styrene profiles, same as gunsight mount. I hate working with PE parts - when everything is glued together and it's time to put f.ex seatbelts in place, these PE's starting to disasseble like they're never glued. I think I'll never learn to use them properly
    13 points
  27. A little more progress, I finished cleaning up the new props and put some paint on them. Also got the wing tip fuel tanks installed and put the fuel dump tubes into the backs of the tanks. I partially cut into the cowl flap joint line and put the cowl flaps into a more closed position.
    13 points
  28. I am currently doing a lot of detail painting on Scooby which is rather difficult to photograph; at the same time, I have started preparing some of the small parts such as the landing gear, slats etc. The only thing I am really quick at is messing up my bench! The front landing gear leg was improved with some wires and bits of plasticart; it was painted with Tamiya XF-2 (I prefer a matt surface when working with oils), chipping was made with Tamiya XF-1 as all chipped surfaces appear extremely dark on Scooby. Some scratches were simluated with light grey. The oleos wer
    13 points
  29. Uhhhhh!! Ok, cowls on, and um....................................round 17,586 of sanding, filling priming smoothing (mostly due to my own stupidity when cleaning up panel lines). But things are very smooth now, and Im nearly done scribing the panel lines, with only a slight sanding round to go after than then some replacement rivets and on to paint. Hopefully I can complete the re-riveting tonight and will be able to proceed with my paint plan. Similar to but not i
    13 points
  30. And start with painting - first 1500 black primer, light shades with deck-tan and white. After - paint some places with original two tone of green camo, sealed with varnish. Some hair sprey covered those areas and start painting the "tank" colors. Some chipping of different zones and places, continue with other shades of those colors. When all was ready - sealed with clear and start with decals-work. Over them I sprayed some smoke to shade again some of the panels and details: Some
    12 points
  31. After drilling out all the cowl fasteners, and replacing some missing ones, the windshield frame was sprayed interior Grey-Green from outside and allowed to dry, before a couple of thin coats of Halfords grey primer (rattle can made for the automotive market). Always a nerve wracking moment when you're not sure what it will show up that needs fixing, especially on a fairly crude set of mouldings and a fair amount of modification. Happy with outcome so far - a few tweaks and we can paint her up... Have fun! Iain
    12 points
  32. another example of the stencils... and once the film is removed...
    12 points
  33. discus

    1/32 Mirage 2000N KH

    Hello Here is my KH Mirage 2000N. Although this version of the 2000 is the "Nuke" one, it was also used for conventional bombing. The quad GBU is the latest loadout validated before the A/C was phased out from the forces. It was used in conjunction with a 2000D or a Rafale equipped with the targeting pod (which cannot be fitted on the N Having built the 2000C previously, no big surprises: KH was constant in the errors and poor choices. Typically there is a mad man at KH who decided that the front canopy should be only shown closed... I spent god knows how mu
    12 points
  34. What a nice modelling experience these Hasegawa kits are, the N1K2 is the last of my trio of Japanese subjects and as well as being enjoyable to build I have learned a lot about Japanese WW2 aircraft and learned (or re learned) some modelling techniques. Paints used were mainly Sovereign Colourcoats, the undersides was Xtracolor High Speed Silver and Humbrol was used for the small details. All markings were painted using Montex masks apart from the stencils data plate and kill markings (I'm not that clever !) Seat belts are the amazing but fiddley RB Productions IJN ones. A
    12 points
  35. Work in Progress!!
    12 points
  36. So it's truly amazing how much modeling you can get down when you are home on a "sick" day (I'm sick of work). KK-Q now has all of her markings. I had previously sprayed Tamiya X-22 gloss coat (2 coats actually) and gave it a day to dry. This stuff is amazing, so much better than Future or anything else I've used over the years. Unlike a lot of gloss coats, this stuff works best when you apply "wet" coats. If you go light, it tends to just give you a satin finish. Decals are a mix of Aviaeology (national markings, squadron codes, serial numbers) and Barracuda stenciling.
    12 points
  37. Not too much time for modelling today, but I managed to get the major elements of the cockpit together - it was a bit like doing a jigsaw puzzle because each piece had to go in the right place and in the right order. I started off by gluing in the IP but fortunately quickly discovered that the floor pan and rudder pedals needed to go in first. The floor pan and sides are simply held in place by the fit of the rest of the components....no glue! The seats are just placed there, they'll go in much later. All the other kit bits are cleaned up, assembled where necessary at this stage and drying
    12 points
  38. Greif8

    PCM MkI Hurricane

    I completed the basic painting today. I went with the Type A camo pattern, drawing and cutting the pattern template myself; and that is the last time I will do that. It took a very long time to draw and cut the templates out on frisking tape. I did my best to replicate the pattern closely but I did not get it 100% accurate, though I think it is close to correct. I sprayed the colors with MRP paints, which are very nice indeed. They spit a bit when the airbrush is actuated, but that is not an issue if you are practicing good airbrush technique - with the possible exception of spraying Luft
    12 points
  39. Primed and ready for some silver and yellow!
    11 points
  40. airscale

    1/18 Hawker Fury

    Thank you ..after posting the pics of the control grip I was really bothered by how crap the cotton wrap looked..so I stripped it off.. ..then I painted it in maskol masking rubber & painted that instead... ..I am happier with how this looks on another note, on Monday I am going up near Duxford to meet with someone who has nearly 2,000 factory drawings of the Fury which I am allowed to access and photograph - really thrilled about that as it is becoming a problem having no references TTFN P
    11 points
  41. And if anyone is in any doubt, HGW wet transfers are just f*ng awesome!! Lay them down like a normal decal leave overnight then peel off the film and the result is pretty damn awesome - no traditional decal can come close to this
    11 points
  42. Finn

    Missile guts

    Ever wonder what the inside of a missile looks like, in this case the guidance section of a Sparrow: Jari
    11 points
  43. 11 points
  44. RB Productions can commission me (like any other customer) to design new products. Right now I am concentrating on doing CAD work for plastic models. Since I separated from RB Productions I also created artwork for photo-etched parts or decals for other producers. I am still creating, maybe more than before, the difference being that I am not directly involved in retailing the products based on my artwork. Radu
    11 points
  45. After alot of fussing on lost hair, I'm FINALLY calling the head done!!! That's all for tonight Tim
    11 points
  46. tomprobert

    Short Sunderland MkII

    Massive congratulations, Ben - my advice is get plenty of modelling in now..! Evening all, I've been making some good progress this week on the big Sunderland. Lots of plastic card and Evergreen strip to the rescue, combined with a fair bit of reference checking and head-scratching, and I now have the basic structures of the bomb room and forward fuselage/flightdeck completed. The bomb room has been kitted out with the basic structure - the doors are actually open on the real aircraft but as I'm not detailing the areas either fore or aft I've used a bit of c
    11 points
  47. Indeed you are Uncarina. Thanks for that. No self-respecting Pratt engine should be without its emblem: Tom gave me a bunch of them. Now the Thunderbolt has an emblem as well: Of course these are from Fundekals. The decal sheet includes 1/18 scale, amazingly! That is if you can get them - Fundekals has been out of stock for quite a while. Thanks again Tom! Another update post coming soon. Stay tuned.
    10 points
  48. As noted at the beginning, Tim is still working on the components for this conversion. One area he's improved since I started was to print a separate lower fuselage vent using the SLA process - which results in a beatifully neat/sharp drop in section to the lower missile recess insert: Upper one in the photo above is the new one... The missile crutches are done using SLA printing as well: Back soon... Iain
    10 points
  49. OH, am I getting behind everyone ?..... Noap, I'll put this one on high gear soon.... Now my little update on the pit, started as usual with XF-69 Nato blk. and two coat of X-20 gloss clear. wait for a week then, proceed with a Model Master wash of the pit color, in this case Flanker Med. Blue 2131. I put my wash, and wait 15 minutes between every layers (3 or 4), at the first run, it define very easily all the contours, the more layers you do, the easier it'll be to paint between the dial whitout making a mess... At that point, I use a ve
    10 points
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