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I've used the Hasegawa 1/32 Canadair Sabre Mk.6 kit to build this F-86F on the beginning of Dec 2018. I was interested in exploring the visual expression of Natural Metal Finishing type of aircraft. I've used the Alcled II lacquers for the painting. With the limited colors and experience I have, this is best I can do at that time. F-86F Sabre 40, Hasegawa 1972 kits, rebox on 2005, 1/32 with raised panel lines.

The 2nd 1/32 kit in my Natual Metal Finishing projects. I spent most of my 2018 Christmas and New Year holidays on it. F-100D Super Sabre 1/32 Trumpeter Kit with Alcled II Lacquers. I've tried not to ink on any panel lines. Instead, using the delicate control of airbrush and compressor PSI to express the idea of metal panels.

small progress fit was so far great after I have attached the nose I have realized that I dont like the shape of the lower part of fuselage behind the nose, will check some reference pics fuselage taking the shape 30mm cannon, it will be almost completly hidden wheels wells thanks for looking jan

First up, I finished the elbow rest for the Ruhrstahl X-4 control stick. Since no pics of the actual elbow rest exist (that I know of) and the fact that this is a later iteration of the X-4 this is what mine looks like. Its not perfect but looks the part IMHO. It actually swivels and locks out of the way, swinging back toward the console, but I have it locked in the extended position so people can see what its actually for: Next up it was time to make sure the fuselage was closed up. I got the fuselage closed up, and the spine graphed on. The fit on both was actually pretty good: Next up, I got the QB exhausts painted and installed. These were not rusted out, nor super weathered ,but I used Alclad jet exhaust, followed by some Alclad pale burnt metal, and then some flat clear with soot on the tips. All sounds complex, but the colors sort of blended more than I expected They actually look much better IRL than in pics: Then I took some time and got the engine covers installed. This took some doing, as the rear engine covers were a tight fit, and getting the trailing edge around the exhausts was a bit of a task. For this, I was in a quandary about how to mask all those exhausts stacks off. What I ended up doing, was some fancy dancy masking, by actually making a pocket of tape for the exhausts and attaching them to the panels before gluing in the engine cover panels, both front and rear. This seems a bit odd, but it resulted in a very tight mask around each exhaust set on each side. So far this has worked out better than I hoped, but the litmus test will be once the model is painted, as I will see if the tape comes off as easy as I hope it will. I made sure to attach the inner portion of the tape with minimal attachments to the inside surface of the engine covers, so when it does come time to remove the tape, there wont be a lot of tape holding things in place from the inside. I also could not resist putting the cowl, cowl flaps, rad front and both props on as a mock-up to see what things are going to look like: As you can see, I also cut down the port side exhaust intake shield, as I thought it looked odd extending so far beyond the rear of the exhausts: Both rear engine panels did fit, but they were tight, and will need a bit of finish sanding/tidying up: All in all, Im very please at how fast this one is going together, and how well its turning out: Tomorrow today (starting right now actually!) we are supposed to get 6 - 10" of the white stuff, and hit a low of -5F, so the boss just said to work from home. That means its Friday and Ill be working on work model stuff here. I think tomorrow I will be hitting the spares drawer to see what I can find in the way of louvers or scoops for some extra rear engine cooling for the A-2 Trop. I also got the Eduard exterior in, so am also going to try to get the rad screen painted and installed as well. As always cheers and thanks for dropping in on me!

A cooling off period has given me some insight - I was royally pissed, and reacted accordingly which isn’t really the rule for me. My appologies to the membership and staff - thanks Mike and Matty for the cool & collected input. Cheers Alan

Bouncing around a bit on the Harrier, worked on the nose today, there needed to be flanges added to the fairing in front of the windscreen, there will be fasteners added to it. The optical lens is a piece of blue mirrorized styene, punched out to fit the hole in the kit's part and I punched out a styrene washer to go around it. Also added a small piece of aluminum tube that I squeezed into an oval on the side of the radome, don't what it is but you can see it in photos of the real thing, it is only on the right side of the nose.

Hello everyone. This is my maiden post here on the forum although I’ve been lurking around for about a year now. I really enjoy following the amazing builds on the site, what a talented bunch here. I’m 43 years old and have been an aviation buff since early childhood. I am new to modelling, as I never had the opportunity when I was a child. One of my favorite toys growing up was an already built Corsair model that I found. It was only the fuselage and wings, the rest had fallen or broken off before I found it. Regardless, I loved it haha. Now some 35 years later I’m building my own Corsair. I’ve built four 1:48 scale fighters over the past year and I’m now stepping up to 1:32. I’m still very green at this and the only thing I have going for me is I have a cutting mat and I use Tamiya thin cement (so I at least look the part!) I will do my best with this build and I would surely appreciate any feedback. Please don’t be afraid to give it to me, you won’t hurt my feelings. After all, I would like to improve and advice from others will help me tremendously. I may not always make the suggested corrections with this build but I will certainly take the advice for future projects. Hopefully others new at the hobby that are following this thread can pick up some tips from my mistakes. On to the build. I’m building Tamiya’s 1:32 F4U-1a, everything straight from the box and I’m not adding any scratch built parts. Just keeping my fingers from being glued together will be a challenge enough for me. I’ve read great things about this kit so I thought it would be a nice introduction for me to larger scale planes. I haven’t decided whether or not to do the engine as I like the look of a closed up bird. So far I have the cockpit pretty much buttoned up. Here’s my progress so far.. Thanks for looking and allowing me to share this build here. -Robert

Thanks Ron, my appologies mate and I do appreciate you guys taking the time to reserect my post. I sent you and Matty a PM earlier. As well, for all who followed my little tantrum here - my appologies for polluting our site with insults, and personal comments. It shouldn’t be happening but it did - and I’m sorry for the drama. It’s not normally my style or path in life. I hope we can all move past this. What surprises me the most is how easy the inet allows the worst of one’s self to come through when the emotions start to get hot. I’ve had some personal crap to deal with recently that is very life changing for my family. The lesson in this for me and hopefully for others is not to use the forum(s) to dump negative emotions on others. Thanks guys. Best regards, Alan

No pressure then... Trying to get the basic kit review finished for LSP at the moment - it's becoming quite expansive! I was planning to do a tweaks list as part of it - but if I wait until we've discovered most of them it'll be delayed by some time I reckon. So, what's in the box, with thoughts I have to date will be what you get. Am I still pleased to see a 1:32 Liberator? I am indeed. Does it have issues? Yes. Are they fixable? Yes, with a little modelling work I think most are... Did I waste my money purchasing two? Nope - still a happy bunny Model on LSP dudes! Iain

ICM has just published its 2019 catalogue: https://issuu.com/7727025/docs/catalogue_web_2019 It's quite expansive - I don't think I quite realised just how prolific ICM has been in recent years! Here's a peek at the LSP pages: Good to see them expanding their range of figure sets! Kev

It's Tamiya kit I've built on Nov 2018.

boxart as posted on britmodeller https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235048551-132-gloster-gladiator-mkiii-by-icm-box-art-release-q4-2019/ jan

Thanks Brian! I'm just tinkering around with the small bits since I don't want to embark on the painting until after I return. Still lots to keep me busy until then. One of the things I can do is to prepare the clear parts. I've decided to shut the canopy to maximize the sleek lines of this jet fighter. I'm trying to add the wire that keeps the canopy from flopping all the way onto the fuselage when open. Obviously, a canopy restraint system should be attached to the part that opens but I couldn't figure out a way to do that. So I just put the terminating end on the same frame as the spring end when in reality, it should be on the adjacent frame. The painted canopy frames and the headrest armor should provide enough distraction from this inaccuracy. Now that I've decided to close the canopy, I need to cover up the two notches on cockpit sill. Instead of filling with putty, I decided to use a section of folded brass. It does not extend all the way to the fuselage surface so as not to impede the canopy from sitting flush. I've added brake lines (lead wire) to the nose gear as well as the main gear legs.

My Revell Me-262B-1 that I built back in 2017. MRP paints, Eduard seatbelts, Master FuG antennas and then just what is in the box. I added some piping to the exposed engine under the cowling cover.

Hello, I'm working on detailed 3D model of Me-262 as preparation for future Trumpeter build. I created detailed exact models of many internal parts and I got an idea to try to print them by 3D print. I have received offer of 3D MultiJet printing company which would be able print such small details as they are on instrument panel. This printed panel would consist of 5 parts. I also received a bid price about 4 Euros per this set if they will print about 40 pcs.(sets). The fact is that with higher amount of printed parts the price per part will be lower. I want to print other parts together with instrument panel (MK-108, KG 13B, REVI 16B, Rudder pedals, pilot seat) to get the price as low as possible. I would like to ask preliminary if there is enough interest among you to let one 3D run print. Please let me know if you will be compliant to join me in this "job". Here are printscreens of some of my 3D models.

I just made an test fit of the A-6A cockpit into the fuselage. Cockpit and frontal wheelbay and LG leg is completely finished. Stil i need to do some little detailing to the wheelbay and LG leg after i noticed some thing's i forget to do, photo's will follow. For now, here's the entire cockpit section dry-fitted into the fuselage. Regards Danny

Here are some photos to show that I have been getting a little accomplished. I've also managed to lose several parts on this kit. First was the throttle console which flew off into oblivion when I was trying to bend the Eduard PE part to match its contours. I am working on my second scratch-built replacement. On this one, I think I will just use a paint marker to mark the grooves for the throttles, etc. Scribing the grooves didn't work very well the first time. I still have the Eduard PE pieces, but other than the levers, I am going to forego the PE for the throttle and use some Airscale placard decals and scratch-built details. The other part I lost was one of the MG17s. I have no idea what happened to it, but Shawn M (and Max, aka Mozart) offered to send me a replacement that he wasn't using. Sorry for the lousy photos. I have been having to use my phone to take the pictures because my good camera is on the fritz. My lighting is a little bad because one of my light stands is out of commission. Thankfully, I do not have a dead cat, as his chewing is what put the light stand out of commission. The seat harnesses are HGW, some from a set for a 2-seat Ar 234, and some from spares from other builds. I've also got the instrument panel done, but the photo is so out-of-focus that I'm not going to post it. Hope to have more to show soon. Bill

hello fellows Slow progress since the last update, but thought i'd post couple picture before I start the internal rigging Very enjoyable when i get time on the bench

Thanks Squizzy and Ben, appreciate your interest! As soon as the windshield is in place and the cockpit masked off, the model seems to accelerate. You can actually read the history of my fitting ****-up by the layers of styrene, much like the rings of a tree trunk! It does sit nice and snug now, and an added bonus was that I had to squeeze the sides a bit to make it fit, which in turn pushed the profile up a bit from what was a slightly flat frame. Some added depth to the rivets and panel lines at the fin "join" as well as some different fasteners to add interest to the surface. The static-wicks are from Profimodeller, but look a bit too long to me. The control surfaces have three skin layers, which I recall Karl replicating with actual layers! I just accentuated the first panel line to create an impression of depth - cheating... The APU intake is mounted on some thin styrene card, and these lifting handles created from the same 0.13mm sheet. The chaff and flare dispensers need a bit of extra attention, and the side fairings really help the look. Stretched sprue for the weld seams and carefully fill and sand the cover to get it flat. The kit photo-etch intake grilles really look the part. Now at last some of the pedigree created in the Design Bureau is starting to show. What a shape... Still no soldering , back in a week... Sean

I would vote for freehand with the airbrush as well. Green over sand would be easier than the sand over green. Blu-tack masks might get you edges that are TOO hard, in my experience. Is this for 1/32 scale, Brian? I did a Japanese mottle scheme in 1/48. I drew the mottle pattern lightly with a colored pencil and then filled in the outlines using airbrush. The pencil marks were not completely eradicated by the thin spray so it was not entirely successful. By the time I did the wings, I had the hang of the mottles and just did them freehand. HP-C Plus with a 3mm tip.

It's all hangin' on the model now... the X looks like it does in Jakes's book, Jake's book is the last word and that's that Also note the finished little Elta jamming pod: Here's a look at the completed ACMI pod: Cheers, Marcel

"Glamor shot".

Blah, blah, blah. All we see on here is the endless "this is wrong, that is wrong, it's the wrong block type etc.etc." Well after reading most of the other thread and now this on decals and sets no even released, I am seriously over all this. I'd held off buying the kit because of the stated errors but this is just over the top as it seems nothing will be good enough for the "experts". Well I don't care and will be buying the kit today and to answer the above about the DKDecals "Can’t use those on the HB kit". well YES you can, you build the kit and put the decals on, problem solved. Point out the issues with a kit by all means but when we get to the point of being told, you "Can't use this or that" well that's just too much. I'd just like to ask the Mr.Hobby Booboo's of the World just which 1:32 B-24 kit will you be buying seeing as this one is such a pile of rubbish? I would also hazard a guess that most people looking at a built "the dragon and his tail" at a model show or club meeting wouldn't know or care that it's "not the right block version" either.

Before I start building the model, I've got to figure out how I'm going to fabricate the pieces that I'll need to build the model. One piece that has been on my mind since the day I decided to take on the Camel is the turnbuckles. There are over 100 of them used on the Sopwith Camel and the ones that came with the kit are not anywhere close to looking like what a 1917 turnbuckle should look like. Based on my research, the buckles on the Camel were pretty large (in both length and circumference) and were drilled for safety wire. Tonight I started playing around with different sizes of different metals to see what might work. The first picture is a close-up of a turnbuckle on the Sopwith Camel at the United States Airforce Museum (where I shot about 200+ reference pics). The next three photos show what the hand-fabricated turnbuckles will look like when I'm done. The prototype in the photos is a mess because I used super glue just to get a sense of scale and design. I also only finished one end because this is a design experiment. The ones that i'll fabricate and use on the model will be much cleaner (solder instead of glue) and will have links at both ends. The new nut in the one I built tonight is a 00-120 but I think I'm going to use 00-90's instead. Each turnbuckle will consist of 6 pieces and will be drilled out and safety wired (per the prototype). And i've got to make over 100 of these things!!! I think I know what i'll be doing for the next week or two. (The silver piece in the last photo is a "turnbuckle" that was cast in pot metal and included in the Model Airways kit.)

shot some primer to check the surface 81 by karl holubar, auf Flickr