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Hi folks Eric from Aircorps Aviation who restored the real Lopes Hope 3rd has been in touch asking for some pictures for the current owner – I thought as I had them, I might share them as I haven’t done an RFI post It’s not actually finished yet as I am waiting for the display case to be built so it can go in there dust free and safe, but there are only a few things to do like aerials, fix the canopy parts properly & detail them, and the drop tanks & mounts The final pic is with a US aircraft compass to give a sense of scale TTFN Peter

i would probably take the B58..

I've taken the B-17 off the wall and added the last few items to it. I wanted some dramatic blue skies pictures of it but the weather is either really windy or raining so, I took these (rather poor) pictures of the FINALLY FINISHED display. Granted the pictures are kind of crappy dark out of focus and with a horrible back drop. But, it's because the only room big enough to take pictures of this is my garage; Now I just have to hide it away somewhere until I can get it to a show...someplace. Thank you for looking

I finished this one a few days ago. First time using the steel rigging used in the kit. I used some of the tyre placard decals from a Wingnut Wings kit. Better pics soon.

July 3/20 A bit of an update already, in order to document some challenges with this kit and how to fix them. Step 17 and 18 have you install the cockpit cage assembly and the rear landing gear housing into the fuselage halves. This wasn’t very straight forward. First, the rear bulkhead part J6 is too wide, holding the fuselage halves apart at the bottom. After many fine-tuning sessions with a sanding stick, I got the fuselage halves to fit together nice and tight at the bottom, without the need for clamps. Chuck Tip: Try avoid the need for clamps to glue large parts together. This often leads to cracks later and other parts sometimes don’t fit due to swelling. If parts don’t fit, there’s usually another solution like the examples below. The windscreen isn’t installed in the instructions until Step 40, but I want to install it now to protect the gun-sight. Unfortunately, it doesn’t fit very well either, due to a shallow front lip on the fuselage parts and a very thick front of the windscreen clear plastic. And resultant fit. As with the rear bulkhead, the solution is to sand the bottom of the windscreen, especially at the front. Here it is installed after masking and painting the windscreen flat black on the inside, with the kit vinyl masks applied to the outside. Near perfect fit now. There are two arms on either side of the gunsight platform that apparently serve as braces attached to the sides of the windscreen frame. I could not get them to touch the windscreen frame without the gunsight hitting the glass, leaving a gap. To close the gap, I applied CA glue in layers until I achieved the correct thickness, which is a lot easier than applying shims. After sanding the CA glue and painting it green, the arms now touch the windscreen frame. I could have glued them as well, but the gun-sight platform is strong enough without the added risk of glue (and fogging). The rear landing gear well is nicely detailed, but it doesn’t fit the fuselage parts at all. After gluing the parts together (J2, J7, J19) as per the instructions, I wound up pulling them apart, The long angled part J2 is too long, so it needs to be trimmed at the bottom (top of pic) and it should sit forward of the angled guide on Part J-19, so I inserted a styrene shim behind it. The upright front Part J7 is a bit too shallow, so I added another styrene strip to support it from behind. These parts were glued to one side to ensure proper alignment. After painting, the gear well now fits both sides of the fuselage halves in a clean snug fit, without any gaps. With everything now glued into place, it’s time to set it aside and let it dry, before I cleanup all joins with CA glue and new scribing. Thanks for your continued interest in this build, which I am really enjoying right now. It has the right balance of kit quality- and enough flaws to fix- to make it fun. Cheers, Chuck

Here I present my Roden Fokker Dr.1 (before Meng gets theirs out). This is Josef Jacobs' ride, complete with a Clerget 9B engine (captured from Copper State Models), extra braces on the landing gear, God of the North Wind graphic taken from an enhanced photo of Jacobs' plane, and the cowling is made from aluminum I spun on my lathe. Jacobs' plane was a glossy black, as well. There is a build log on ww1 aircraftmodels.com. Thanks for looking and comments are welcome.

Number 2.

Hello everyone! First off, a very big thank you to Ben Schumacher aka Starfighter for designing and 3D printing the tail fin sensors and to Colin Robinson aka crobinsonh for providing the extremely rare Zotz decals F-4EJ resin conversion parts. It's people like you that make me appreciate this hobby even more! I used a razor saw to cut off the kit's plastic sections and superglued the conversion parts in place. The tail fin sensors required a bit of blending and for this I used Milliput epoxy. It has been mentioned several times before but I've also had similar issues with the transparencies. Because of the way Tamiya has moulded the sprue gates, the clear canopies end up having fracture marks on one side. I filled in those sections with superglue and sanded everything smooth till clarity was restored. The marks that have remained will be covered with thin strips of masking paper to simulate the canopy insulation strips. I also added more detail on the weapons pylons in the form of rivets and wiring. This concludes the construction stage and I can finally move on to painting! A few more pics of the main airframe and subassemblies.

I have spent most of the last evening preparing and assembling the engines, drilled the fixing holes and inserted the fixing pins. This enabled me to temporarily fit the engines to the wings which really gives that “Skywarrior” look to the model. The model also gets more and more difficult to handle due to its sheer size. I need to plan carefully what to do next in order not to make my life more difficult than necessary (which is one of my specialities...). The idea is to complete the engines before putting them aside, then to paint the cockpit floor before starting to design the landing gear. A freshly printed tail rudder is currently curing by the way.

Hello all, here are my two Shiden-Kai. Number 1.

Happy 4th of July everyone! We are just going to hunker down and have a quiet celebration at home... seems fitting with what's going on at the moment and gives me some more modeling time. Here is the Type 98 gun sight with all of the bits added on and painted.

Here's a quick look at the first and probably only model I have finished in 2020, Academy's excellent 1/35th scale AH-1Z Viper. Probably the best kit I have ever built - excellent surface detail (raised rivets!!), perfect fit. The cockpit is a bit of a letdown detail wise, but nothing that can't be fixed with a bit of effort. Clear parts are a bit of a disappointment as well. The model was published in issue 6/2020 of German magazine ModellFan, so I can just post a minimum of photos at the moment. I am working on a little diorama which I'll show you once it's finished. Just a quick summary of the materials used: Blade fold & blade fold rack by Legend Productions, some PE from Eduard's AH-1W set, Master Model gun, Flying Leathernecks decals, Werner's Wings stencils. MSR/SAIP pod, ground handling wheels, Sidewinder seeker head cover and FMV pods on the tail boom designed & printed by myself. If you have comments, critique or questions, please do not hesitate!

Just get on and announce it for God’s sake. all this announcing an announcement is bs

fist pic is up for the viggen its the bang seat and still in design fase Will try to update this when more pics will come online For me it already looks good Mark

Hi all, I want to show you my recently finished F16 Sufa. A very nice kit to build, unfortunately I F23ked up the very last decal, being one of the big decals on the vertical stabilizer. But a replacement decal question on this forum all worked out. A big thanks to Peter Gregor, Kagemusha, Oeguy and Helmsman who all offered help! It is not one of my best builds (or photo's) but I am more than happy with the result. Unfortunately, a matte spot appeared on the canopy, I have no clue how it ended up there. Luckily it isn't visible from the position were it is parked! I hope you like it. With regards, Rob

Thanks Guys! I have closed and finished off the front fuselage halves, using my usual technique of using Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color in Black to check for flaws. After sanding, every panel line was re-scribed and just about every rivet was re-punched, so there's a high chance of slip-ups that could be revealed after the first coat of paint. By adding a dark wash now, these flaws can be seen and fixed easily, so I now hardly ever have to fix something after painting which can be a real pain. After sealing up the front fuselage, I found plenty of little slip-ups here and there and for the most part, they are all fixed now. I notice quite a few other modelers using this method recently, so maybe I started something? The dark wash would ooze into tiny cracks that would otherwise be invisible to the naked eye. There were a few, which I have now fixed. Note there are no gaps around the rear landing gear well, due to the modifications I did above. This kit has lots of fine rivet and panel line detail, but not all of it is very clear. Re-doing much of it brings it back to life. In a month or two, it should look a bit like my last model of the Kitty Hawk Harvard below, which had a very smooth and glossy yellow finish. With a big investment in early flaw detection, it paid dividends later with yellow paint that was hard to touch-up. With a weathered camo-finish, this model should be even easier to eliminate surface flaws. I'll be gone again for a few weeks, so no more modeling until I return. Thanks for checking in. Cheers, Chuck

Significant progress today. There are still a few small things to complete here, like the bungee on the seat height mechanism and some gas cylinder plumbing, but it's moving right along now. The shots below are just dry-fit (which of course fits perfectly and hangs together because Tamiya). I can't install the seat until my HGW seat belts get here. I may shift gears after this and start prepping parts and base coating the engine. I really need to study both Sean's excellent build and my Aero Detail book (when is it getting here!?) with regard to the back of the engine, plumbing, wiring, etc between engine and firewall. I'm determined to make that whole region visible with removable panels and cowling, so I've got to build a credible mess o' wires and linkages.

Thank you all for the kind words! So many great modelers here- great friends as well. heres some more. Really; it’s not that bad to do- and oddly relaxing. Who knew? Started on the opposite side of the tail, and as before, moving forward towards the cabin, I find this side a little easier as I am left handed. cheers Pete

I've gotta admit I'm not the best at keeping up with in progress pictures, but now it's done. What WIP pictures there are is in the WIP thread Zlatko Stipcic was an Croatian ace who flew this machine for at least one victory before it was flow by Vladimir Sandtner to Falconara in Italy, where it was extensively photographed. As a croatian Stipcic fits into my current theme 'aces of the smaller nations in WWII' - more are on the way Hope you enjoy As

Hi everyone I've been a bit quite on the forums lately and that's because I've been spending more time building and less time writing. I had to take a break from the relentless detailing of the Star Destroyer (which I will go back to because I want to see it done), and so for the past month or so, I have been away quietly building my 48th scale 199 Eagle. I've long loved the design of this ship and have dreamed of having a kit of this as a boy when I saw it in an old Airfix catalogue but just never bought one until a couple of years back when I saw one of these going relatively cheaply instead I clearly grabbed one. Naturally, me being me, I also was never going to paint it like the show. Then I saw The Admiral's build (http://resinilluminati.com/showthread.php?t=17378 ) and it's inspiration from him that got me going on mine. So I naturally borrowed/stole his cockpit idea and subsequently made my own poorer copy. However, it reinforced my previous desire for a non standard white Eagle, so I came up with the most obvious option: paint it in black! Everything looks good in black right?! Painted in Tamiya NATO Black, flat black and German grey and something else to. The engine stuff is all painted in bare metal just because I thought it would look cool. That general concept is prevalent throughout this whole build really I'm going to blow my own horn here and state that I am super happy with how this came out. Yes - after taking the photos I realised that there are some paint issues to fix that have alluded me prior to now but they are easily fixed and TBH, I'm not going to take another series of shots to show them fixed. It's been hard enough to get enough light to take even these pictures. Love Melbourne weather! At any rate, you'll get the idea from the following pics and this is my rudimentary cockpit which I shamelessly stole from Bill. Thanks again mate!! I can't paint faces to save myself, so I sprayed shaped pieces of masking tape silver followed by clear red and a mist of clear orange. It looks much better to me The screens behind them are decals which I cut up and stuck onto the back wall with a hole behind it where fiber optic stubs had been inserted into the side panels - all lit by a single SMD each side. The red cockpit glow is a standard but sanded 5mm LED. It looks good against the black. Well, that was a fun build in so far as that I didn't have to make details for anything. Like I said, I'm super happy with this. I think it looks seriously cool, but that's just me Anyways, thanks for stopping by and having a look. Si

Following is my recently completed Bf109 E-4 representing a I/JG27 aircraft. It is one of my contributions in the Battle of Britain Group Build and you can see both the build log and more photos in that thread. I opted to show the aircraft as moderately worn and the simple diorama attempts to tell the story of a pilot preparing for yet another sortie over England. The kit is a DLM offering and I built the model mostly OOB, only using HGW seatbelts, a Henri Dähne prop and some AM decals, both the wet transfer type and the normal type. I also did some very limited scratchbuilding in the cockpit, the antenna and (because I was forced to) one of the wheel well canvas covers. Ernest

Yes, yes, I know that there is Tamiya's one the best. But this old model had been put onto the bench when I and my friends decided to organize local group build with the slogan: "Building kits older then their owners")) So, I blew a dust from the box and started. I decided not to dive into extensive and expensive way of total correction and make it for fun BUT... I've already had Verlinden cockpit and two old Eduard sets need to be deployed. Just one thing bothered me yet - an ENGINE. If overall exterior is simple but pretty decent, the engine is just ugly. I had pair of Quickboost R-2800 but they didn't fit big Revell cowling, just hanging out inside and moreover didn't resemble particular engine model in details. Finally I decided to make my own "quickboost" using 3D and futher aim to adapt it to different models uncluding other scales, for example 1/48 Corsair and bunch of old Monogram bombers and, of coouurrse 1/24 P-47D)) As for this Corsair plan, it will be one of VF-17 (likely "Chico" Freeman plane) in flight configuration (not to build undercarriage). So, the progress in the pictures below. Engine itself consist of three large parts (crankcase, first and second rows) and three small (magneto, airscrew governor and oil pump). Backplate is separate part just for Revell Corsair to adapt engine to the model.

The remaining scoops and protuberances have been fitted. I need to sort out the area below the coaming in the cockpit which had a little butchery applied earlier in the build, then I think a coat of primer might be in order!

Evening all The B-52 has external hardpoints between the inboard engines and the fuselage - modern day H-models can carry a wide range of weapons on these pylons from the basic 'dumb' free-fall bombs to the most modern and sophisticated cruise missiles. As the Sanger kit comes, there are no external pylons provided but their locations are marked on the wing. However, these bare no resemblance whatsoever to the large pylon mounts seen on the real aircraft: IMG_0308 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr B-52H Underside by Thomas Probert, on Flickr As my model will be finished without the pylons, I needed to make a more accurate representation of the mounts, so I grabbed some plastic card from the stash and started to fashion them: IMG_0312 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0313 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Lots of careful trimming and sanding ensured a nice, snug fit to the wing: IMG_0319 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I presume on the real thing the pylons are mounted to this plates - and I use the word plates as that just what they look like and have very little in the way of surface details. Both are now done and look like a significant improvement over the original kit offerings and are certainly more in keeping with the real aircraft: IMG_0317 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0318 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr That's another job done! Take care all, Tom

Hey everyone, It's been a while since I posted a build here. I'm not good enough to be a slow builder, but there has been a lot of armor and other scale stuff that I've spent time on. Once in a while, there is a photo that pops up that just know you must do. Sometimes, I find that other modellers have already beat me to the punch, and I need to find another scheme. I did Wollf's D.Va by WNW a couple years ago, and although I enjoyed every minute of it, I felt like I was just 'assembling' somebody else' fantastic work once finished. This has caused me to give away the remainder of the Green Tail Trilogy decals. Likewise with this Fokker D.VII. This kit is actually the Fokker D.VII (Alb). But I have dressed it up as a Fokker D.VII (OAW). And here is my inspiration photo: I've probably gotten quite a few things wrong... but what else can you do when you have one picture? Guesswork. And a little help from some people who know more. Anyway... here are my results: Thank you for looking!

This is 1/32 Hasegawa Messerschmitt Bf 109 F-2 flown by II./JG 53 Heinz Bretnütz May-June 1941 while the unit was still based at St Omer Arques in France. After market parts are: Aires cockpit set Aires Wheel well parts Aires wheels Decals: Xtradecal Bf 109 Stab Pt 2 Paints : Gunze Sangyo acrylics Happy Modelling

It's almost been half a year and I finally pulled the Spit back from the SoD. The cockpit recieved its dark green wash and a flat coat. The IP is finally finished with the instrument glasses made from clear acetate. How could I evere live without a punch and die? Stay tuned for more progress on the camera assembly. I decided to scratch the camera cradle and leave the camera compartment wide open. Cheers Joachim

Here some more pictures: Landing light with weathered glass:

The Bendix-Scintilla DF18LN magneto, used on the Corsair (there also is a Bosch magneto that seems less common) is a complicated little bugger. And it is hard to find good pictures or drawings. I did find this though: This comes from a R-2800 "operators Manual" I found at Aircorps Library. This provided alot of good scaling at least for the side view. I also found a magneto on E-bay with some good photos like this: This plus other photos of R-2800's gave me enough to go on. So a ten-times size (10/18 to be sure) layout, and just short of a hundred little plastic parts later I got this: Mounted on the engine, and wired up: I am so glad to be done with that infernal .025 gold painted solder. Next is the propeller governor. I have found some material on Aircorps Library on this too, but there will still be guesswork. After it is installed, I really have to decide what to do next. There are many options, including the back sections of the engine - something I have never done before, and something that requires guesswork as well. Stay tuned!

So, I'm still working on this one, and I finally decided to get a Silhouette Portrait 2. Best decision ever!!!! The learning curve is a little steep, but the results are awesome. This should allow me to do "Teggie Ann". So here is a pic of my first efforts with the vinyl masks I cut myself.

Storm in a D cup or tea cup?? I dated a storm in a D cup once. Never again.

I actually finished this model a couple/few months back, but was having trouble getting good photos, due to the metal base finish and the lighting in my shop. I kind of put the photo shoot on the back burner, but everything came together yesterday and I was able to get a good session in with some cool clouds in the background. This is a fairly basic build of another great Hasegawa kit. I added Quickboost exhausts, brake lines from wire and the antenna wire is E-Z Line. Oh, and I also riveted the entire airframe. The base finish is Testors Metalizer Aluminum Plate from the rattle can. It was buffed to a decent shine, then coated with Future. The rest of the colors are Model Master enamels. All of the national markings were masked and painted. The decals came from my spares and represent an aircraft from the IJA Akeno Flying School. Weathering was done with oils and pastels. This was also another opportunity to improve my figure painting skills. Still a long way to go, but that's why I'm practicing! Enjoy! John

Back on the Vc and finally to paint. Preshading with browns and blues Then gunze h314 for the sky blue underside. Test fitted the hurricane 44 gallon tanks retro fitted to some spits. I'll find the photo! Aaron

I have reprised a scheme I did before back in 2013. These are Pheon decals, a Rexx exhaust, Roden Spinner and Gaspatch/Bob Turnbuckles. The colours are all DB lacquers with the RAF roundel blue as the Bavarian blue. Figures are CSM and Elan 13. Polak Meadow grass base.

I was working on the main gear doors. As is well reported the lower edge should be straight, not curved. One straightened and compared to unmodified kit part. I'm not too content with the results as now the door is too narrow at the front end. No one would notice right? Since I had a lot of fun making a gun bay door cover for the Me 262 I decided to try and make new gear doors from scratch. More work, but who cares. I cut out two new doors from an empty beer can, production of which has been exceptionally good lately. The things I do for modelling... This basic shape will be laminated with very thin stock card, and then I will cut the inner details with the Silhouette from the same stock and dress them inner surface up a bit. We'll see... This is where the little Spatz is at now. All primed and lower surfaces have been painted MRP RLM 76. The wings are still loosely attached as I want to spray the cammo pattern under the wing roots first and this area is much more accassible this way. The wingroot-to-fuselage fit is again excellent! More than that. Design of the parts is such that glueing them in place enforces them to assume the correct anhedral.

Thank you Robert and Michael! With the majority of the PE pieces assembled, if not permanently glued in or painted yet, I thought it would be a good time to dry fit the cockpit assembly. Many pieces are just sitting there so there is probably alot of misaligned and skewed parts. But it gives a sense of the scope of enhancements that the Brengun PE set brings to the table. There is still lots to do in the cockpit including the photoetch and acetate instrument panel, seat harnesses, maybe some wiring and painting, of course. I cut the upper wings off their sprue. I was keeping them attached to protect that thin trailing edge extension that will probably get broken at some point in the build. Rough fit with a few pieces of tape show a very good fit at the wing root. I do see a bit of that "underbite" along the trailing edge of the wing fillet that I've seen on other builds but that should be a very easy fix. Checking to see if the RB Models brass gun barrels need any special attention for attachment but they seem to be a plug-in fit.

Printing results are better when parts are angled in 99% of all cases. Details are more crisp and suction is reduced when a part is angled. When printing, one should forget any thought about "waste of material" when it comes to printing angle and supports. The photo below shows the difference between a detailed part printed flat on the left and printed at an angle on the right - the difference is obvious. The part on the left would have been even more crisp with a slightly lower exposure time.

I'm impressed with this Brengun PE set. Very well thought out and executed. I tackled the gun sight attachment, which I thought might be difficult since it involves some of the smallest and most delicate of parts. The brass set adds the sighting bead and crosshairs. The frame is super delicate and I'll need to be extra careful not to break it. Here's what a full-size replica of the Type 98 gun sight looks like... I test fit the windscreen and found that it butts up right against the crosshair so that means the armored glass won't fit. So I decided to make a modification by shortening the delicate arm holding the crosshair. I did this for two reasons. One is to allow enough room for the armor glass between the gun sight and the windscreen. Two is to strengthen that fragile filament that was holding the crosshair away from the gun sight. I had already knocked on it a couple of times and was afraid that it was just a matter of time before it broke. I carefully snipped off the crosshair and re-attached it on leftover filament. I reinforced the join from the bottom with a bead of CA glue. The gun sight is a little inaccurate now but it's stronger and I can fit the armor glass. It took a few tries but I got the tiny frames for the reflector glass mounted on two pieces of clear acetate. I used acetate that was a little thicker than what was supplied with the Brengun set. The edges of one of the elements has been painted clear blue/green and the other element has been tinted. Storing them in a small baggy to keep them safe!

I have been working away at the engine, it will not be as nice as Thor's superb engine but I am happy with it, at first I used a mix of polished aluminium, matt aluminium and steel to give some different colours to the various components, but it looked all wrong so I reverted to Humbrol matt aluminium with a light grey crankcase (Humbrol126 satin US medium grey). The only thing that I added was lots of fuse wire for HT leads, again painted matt aluminium, unlike the Hayate this time I cheated and drilled the crankcase to fit the wires instead of drilling the ring. I then gave the cylinders a quick wash with very dilute satin black. For the exhaust I used my old favourite Humbrol 113 Matt Rust, I let that dry and then rubbed it with some pencil graphite. And in one of the builds that I studied there was a small problem fitting the engine to the fuselage so I did a test fit, I found that I did have to do a bit of sanding on the fuselage to get a good fit. Cheers Dennis

... or a typical Meng model too. Keep in mind that this is a test shot and they use a different plastic (recycled/reground plastic) for test shots - test shots always look heartbreaking. Radu

Thanks for looking in and encouraging my delinquency. I bumped it off the shelf for a spell (foiling a model is a bit of a boring chore I find) to finish the "Higher call" and build, yet another, 1/72 Beechcraft 200- Kingair which is off in the paint drying stages now so back to foiling this kit. The fuselage has been completed and work is moving to final assembly of the flying surfaces and fitment of those surfaces to the fuselage Again, thanks for looking

Small progress. I have been adding small details and getting a flat finish on the model. In an attempt to add some visual interest I have taped over some panel lines and then sprayed the clear flat. Hopefully when I remove the tape strips there will be some panel line "augmentation". I am not sure if this will work, but if it looks too strange I can just apply another flat coat. Later.... Dan

And to end that area, we will now add the tube visible in front of the front face of the radiator: This is just a small section of bent plastic rod added on a short length of Slater plastic strip. Again, a row of screw heads should be visible (close the the front edge of the ramp). However, for the same reason, I will only add them later. I will now look at the oil cooling system. Fortunately, this will be far easier to recreate!

The build is complete. All in all it was an enjoyable build and the final result was decent. I did not add very much scratchbuilding; a couple of O2 lines in the pit, the canvas cover in one of the wheel wells, and some minor stuff on the aerial. The camo turned out well, especially the mottling that has a nice toned down look to it. The weathering, while not perfect, is viewable. The figures turned out very well and I think they are perfect for telling the story of a pilot prepping for a mission. I took some quick photos with a basic photography setup on my bench. I will get the photo tent, lights, etc setup tonight and shot some better photos to include a few "scene setting" type shots. I will be starting the Mark I Hurricane tomorrow and plan to make it the ying to this build's yang - i.e. I plan to show it returning from a sortie. Ernest A few shots of the base under construction, such as it is. Airfield scenes are about as easy as it gets when it comes to diorama bases. I added a bit of bushy grass and some natural ground debris; the purpose being to suggest a tree line just off the base. Ugh, white balance is a bit off on this one. More to follow!

Since I’m reaching the end of my vacuform build of one, it’s clearly an English Electric Lightning!

I know more about what the kit isn't, than what it actually is, and I don't think anybody has guessed it so far yet. All I know about it is that it's a new kit that has not been previously announced or discussed. It's been ready for over a month, but distributors asked Neil to hold off on the release due to COVID. In any case, whatever it is, Neil's sending me one on Monday, so I guess I'll know at least some time next week. And if I'm allowed to, I'll share it with you guys (I may not be, however). Kev

Thanks to members help, I was able to tone down my flat finish by spraying TS-80 Tamiya Flat clear coat and planning to add a little sheene with an old T-shirt and wool...... I know it's kind of hard to see the difference but trust me, it's way better than it was.... Was done with the paint, and time for the metal part.... and tape......lol. Running out of Model Master Magnesium metalizer, had to improvised with other finish... And it end up very close.... Getting closer to the finish line for this one....Yeah. And few touch-up on accessories. Will try to finnish it by next week and show it in RFI soon..... Hope you still like it and have fun.. Dan.

Thank you guys for the compliments. I wish I could answer to each of you, but I am up to my neck at work and by the time I get home I am running on fumes. I managed to get rid of Some annoying seams in the intake and wing root area: Also, I did a gloss black coat on the bottom, since the scheme I am doing has a camouflaged top and NM in the bottom. Hopefully, something like this: So far: Again, thank you guys!