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The Panavia Tornado is a family of twin-engine, variable-sweep wing multirole combat aircraft, jointly developed and manufactured by Italy, the United Kingdom and West Germany. There are three primary Tornado variants: the Tornado IDS (interdictor/strike) fighter-bomber, the suppression of enemy air defences Tornado ECR (electronic combat/reconnaissance) and the Tornado ADV (air defence variant) interceptor aircraft. The Tornado was developed and built by Panavia Aircraft GmbH, a tri-national consortium consisting of British Aerospace (previously British Aircraft Corporation), MBB of West

Ok, here is a quick look at my next project. This is the Combat Models F-106. I picked this up about 8 months ago and just recently bumped this up to the "Next" pile. Yes I know, I already have a couple of builds going, but this has been calling me. I have already cut the parts out from the backing sheet. Surface detail is quite good for a vac. It has a mix of recessed panel lines and raised panels. It comes with 2 vac canopies. Anyway I will begin construction slowly as I wrap up other projects. Here is an overall shot of the main c

January 14/21 With the cockpit, avionics bay, most of the landing gear and the engine done, it’s time to glue everything into the fuselage and seal it up. This is going to be very tricky, since the many resin parts need to be glued with CA glue while the fuselage halves will be glued with ordinary Tamiya thin cement- and all at generally the same time. I have a method to do this that has worked for me in the past, so I will show how to do it later. Before I glue anything together, I want to glue the engine intakes onto the fuselage halves for ease of handling and befo

The rear engine faces are now glued into the surrounding engine bearers. There are brass pins and consecutive fitting brass tubes in the engine and rear faces, and fit fairly precisely together, so I just stuck the rears on the engines, got the engines where I needed them, then super glued the rear engine faces to the bearers. Once that was set, I utilized some JB Weld to make sure they stayed put. I left the engines on the bearers attached to the rear sections until the next day when the JB Weld was cured enough to do some heavy lifting to secure the rear engine faces. In progress

January 18/21 Before I seal up the main fuselage, the navigation lights need to be installed from behind. These were painted in clear red and blue, then a backing of chrome for reflectivity and depth. The reference pics I have show the starboard light to be blue rather than greenish blue, which is more normal, although my F-5E had blue lights as well. The other thing I wanted to check is the wing fit. I’ve read a few build logs of this kit that noted that the wings fit sloppy and needed shims on the inside of the fuselage and as a re

Thanks to the great suggestion from Maru, let's start an LSP engines thread. After the cockpit, it's my next stop for modeling bliss! I'll start with these: ZM He-219: ZM Ki-45 Toryu: ZM HO-229 Horten: Tamiya F4U-1D Corsair: Hasegawa N1K2 Shiden-Kai: Let's see what you have! Cheers, Tom

Used Tauro decals for the markings, printed myself the black oval antenna you can see here above, navigator left screen has been 3D printed, pilots are a mix f Aero Bonus with PJ heads and life-jacket made with blue tack Paints are by MRP

Hey all- the very fiddley right/aft countermeasures are up- I added a few Archer rivets to the boxes, decals, and power cords and connectors. a little grain to the paint here and there that I’m just noticing..hmm. Might need stronger cheaters! cheers Pete

A short pause after I've applied the fuel stencil decals. I think I can start on the mottle work soon.

FINALLY! Sorry for the huge delay. This one has been done for a while, but I've been neglecting the photo side of things. Here are a few now that she's in the case... You can find the build thread here. The replacement Eduard resin spinner and prop arrived (well, the new spinner and baseplate) so I had to alter the already-glued props to the hub to make the prop diameter wider to clear the wider spinner. I didn't quite get the spacing right on one of the props... BUT! I did finally get the spinner properly painted! And yes, the main gear doors are UP. Little bits of re

Thanks Matt! The black will fade somewhat with the upcoming weathering but that will come later. I'm moving towards applying the Light Blue RLM 76 mottle over the green so... Let's do the red "10" markings! One of the first things that I do when I get a new kit is to scan the decal sheet. The decal sheet for this build was used to create custom masks for the major markings including the "10". Since the numbers have a thin white border, masking is a little bit trickier than single color markings. First, I transfer the entire mask onto the model using tape to hold the different

Dear fellow modellers, here is an update on the thrust reverser section of my Jaktviggen. What took you so long, you may ask. Well, the inner parts of the thrust reverser went in like a charm. They literally fell into place and a drop of glue was all that was needed to keep them from falling out again. This was quite unexpected because dry fitting was nearly impossible and I just had to hope that my math was correct. Miraculously it was ... Now, the outer skin panels were a different story. They fought me all the way. Somtimes I forgot to punch a row of riv

Added this little detail- the tail rotor anti ice connection-

Progress....

Well i finally got there, ive managed to source all of the bits i need to start this project so heres what ive got Kit Airscale cockpit instruments decals Resin seats (may not use these depends on the kit ones) Litining pod (thanks to wunwinglow) both the xtradecal and fantasy print shop decals (thanks to Phartycroc and Scotsman) also im tempted with the storm shadow's from the Revell typhoon i have spare metal pitol as for the exact aircraft, the plan is for ZA614 in the special livery, this is a photo i took a few years ago a

Couldnt see what I was doing with the white plastic card, so shot Mr Surfacer and....whoa, there goes a whole pile of areas that now need sorting out... In case you are wondering...most of those openings are different sizes Cheers Anthony

Thanks for the great information on the jet exhausts! The top surface painting is finally underway! Since this will be a field-applied mottle over a factory scheme, I will restrict my pre-shading to the panel lines. For the base camo, I've decided on a RLM 81 (Dark Green Version) and RLM 82 combination and will be using AK Real Colors. I'm going to swap between the two colors, choosing to concentrate on areas rather than finishing one color. The wing root has been treated with hairspray so I want to finish that area first.

So I think I'm calling this one done. I've added a few bits and tweaked the weathering. Only modifications to any of the kit bits was to drill out the opening on the trailing wire antenna tube that protrudes under the fuselage near the bottom of the entrance door. Normally when I wrap up a build like this, I list all the extras I put into the kit, in case anyone wants to use my build as a guide. For now, I just don't have the time to go back and recall everything I added or tweaked. I'll circle back with y'all on that one. So here are some last pictures. I'll put up a

I used this construction method to get into building "our" way again, and it was a nice covid distraction doing it. I used a "ersatz"LEGO construction kit (polish brand by the name of COBI) to build a 1/300 scale Titanic, and i had lots of fun building, and i must say the end result is impressive, almost 90cm long (36 inches) , pretty heavy in weight, mainly because of the internal build-up in order to have a solid hull, and the only downfall was the rigging (i mean really, it was too tedious to do, dah.....), so here it is:

Ok, as I want to do a PAF MiG-29A here some specifics references for this bird: a beautiful decal sheet from Techmod Decals and a comprensive book from Polish Wings series dedicated to the early years of the Fulcrum in PAF. Going to the kit. First of all the Trumpeter MiG-29A kit is better when is compared with the old Revell kit, but also the Trumpeter kit has some errors/mistake in shapes and size. The main fuselage part includes the wings and is splitted with the lower part of the fuselage longitudinally. Personally, I like this solution.

While I'm messing about trying to finish my 109e-3 thought I'd post my build of Tamiya's gorgeous Corsair F4U-1A I did a while back (I know, another one! But it's such a beautiful kit). The subject is Greg "Pappy" Boyington's 833 from the famous Black Sheep squadron VMF-214 based on Vella Lavella in late 1943. The kit was a pleasure to build with excellent engineering from Tamiya and plenty of detail to play with. As such, aftermarket was kept to a minimum only using Barracuda cockpit stencils and placards and Montex canopy and insignia masks. I scratchbuilt some additional engine

Who's used to it... Jari

Hey all, Started working up the GAU-18/A .50 cal guns. These are the Live Resin guns, and they are really nice. Beware though- the Live Resin set is engineered for the Academy kit. Also, the guns are left/right sided- pay attention to the feed chutes- the left side gun feeds left and right feeds right- below you can see the Kitty Hawk mount on the left and the Live Resin mount on the right. I’ll use the Live Resin part, but will have to modify the mount slightly to interface with the Kitty Hawk attachment point on the sponson- cheers Pete

The top and bottom are progressing at different rates, which I think is ok until I get to the transitions like the sides of the engine nacelles. I've decided to do the majority of the markings and decal work on the bottom at this stage. The wing crosses are masks from the Silhouette Portrait based on scans of the kit decals. The stencil decals from the kit are used. They are very fine and feature legible text, even for the very small decals. The only thing I don't like about the decals is the flat finish... I prefer gloss or satin. I used M

Hey Guys, I am very happy to announce that KLP Publishing will soon have an eBook out on this build, to help those who want to build this kit and would like an easy to follow guide. This eBook will be in a much clearer format than sifting through all 29 pages of this thread and will go well beyond, with references and identification of aftermarket items, etc. Thanks to LSP Kevin for doing all the heavy lifting and putting this book all together! Building the Special Hobby Tempest in 1/32 Scale Cheers, Chuck

Some stuff I must finish.

Once again, thanks all. The nacelles and upper roof of the nacelles (bottom of the wing effectively) are as complete as I can get them without fully attaching them to the airframe, as the oil tanks and piping and rear roof of the nacelles cannot be added until the nacelle itself is glued down. Nothing has been glued in yet, as I still need to fully re-scribe and rivet both nacelles before gluing them in: Upper nacelle roof/bottom of the wings are about as done as they are getting prior to gluing things down as well:

So LSP stands for Large Scale Porsches right? Ok, ok, must stay on target. I've been wanting to do a Death Star trench diorama from a while. This just made it a bit easier. I've got Bandai's Tie Fighters and Tie Advanced in the stash so it's ready to go now. Carl

Most excellent power plants here. Just finished a couple of R2800s:

Rolls Royce Merlin from the Tamiya Spitfire MkXVI kit: Rolls Royce Derwent jet engine from the HKM Gloster Meteor MkIV. The engine is actually aftermarket Profimodeler for the HKM Meteor. Allison V-1710 from the Kitty Hawk P-39 kit (together with moth of the other innards - it was the best picture I have of this engine!) Napier Sabre, from the Airfix Hawker Typhoon. Cheers, Michael

Thank you, Maru! --------------- one picture, but alot of work and going cross-eyed: Still need some touch-ups, a wash, weathering, filters, etc, but it's IMHO a nice start. Looking at the flat uninspiring kit panels and mostly black and grey switches and knobs made me keep pushing this job ahead of me, but by using white and grey for labels and lines (some need a bit of retouching, photo's are always killing!) I'm actually quite happy with the result. As I wrote before, the cockpit will be closed, but it's a large and clear transparency, so I didn't really want t

Hi, last mold for Helldiver is done. Then the time, when we will start selling is here. (two- there weeks ?). The website is also in english. http://www.infinitymodels.cz/en/ The language switcher is at the very bottom.

Thanks Jeff- appreciate that! Hi Tim- I was mistaken- I used the HIQ Parts Mirage Green Seal on the disco light. Although the name implies that it is “green”, it’s still iridescent, and flips between gold and red mostly. I used the SMS film for the large lens of the FLIR. The SMS film is sensitive to the background color you apply it over. In this case, I masked and shot the lens background black on the FLIR, then applied the SMS film over that- the black patches at the top of the FLIR turret are carbon fiber decals, cut so that the strata on the decal were horizontal

Hey all, finally got the “disco light” figured out- I made several of these; starting with the kit part, 2 different ones from Shapeways, and then finally grabbing this one from my very excellent Zactomodels OH-58 Kiowa Warrior update set. I tried several different types of adhesive iridescent film- finally using one from Japan who’s name escapes me right now- Dave Roof makes an excellent disco light as well, but I never got to it- I’ll use it to replace the light I stole from the Zactomodels set. Creating a convincing, reflective disco light was one of the mo

Hey all- left side GAU-18/A coming along... the gun metal finish was super easy- just a base coat of Tamiya NATO Black and then a rub with AK Gun Metal powder, and then AK Polished Metal powder on the highlights- applied with a micro brush and then rubbed with a Q tip. cheers Pete

Not sure how jealous this may make anyone, but I’ve just managed to ship a 4kg parcel of LSP raffle goodies, across to Canada for the measly sum of £26/$35, instead of a potential £91/$123. That’s what I call a RESULT!

I like this idea. Engines are my favorite part of a build. This one is for a future build of a Corsair: This other one is for G. Gladiator:

A little more done today working on the bomb aimers/ bomb bay bulkhead. Looking at various pictures the glycol tank is a little bit on the skinny side so fabricated a new one and added various rivet and rib detail Also working on the various panels in the nose at the moment and lots to do in this area. Not sure if I will do it but pondering using some fibre optic lighting on this one and incorporate them in the scratched navigators and radio operators lights? Regards. Andy

Thanks Andy! I've thought that landing gear and tires can be a neglected component of a build and wanted to move beyond the paint-it-one-color-and-move-on treatment that I used to practice. The really fun part begins now as the camo starts getting applied. I've wondered the same thing Johnie. Especially since Vince posted that last pic of Red 10... I'm going to mimic that and spray that area with a light grey after the camo painting. That's why I have not been masking off that area. Thanks Kirby! Lo

A little more done this evening with the drift recorder scratched and added. Bomb aimers position to work on now with plenty of scope to improve what is in the kit. Regards. Andy

Thanks Guys And now I have to start building another model

I built the control linkages on the back of the engine. Not as detailed as Mark's, again, I know my limits...but hopefully representative of something linkage-y being there. Then joined engine to firewall. Now I can proceed to install the plumbing and control linkages that pass between firewall and engine. But I'm going to wait a bit on that as I need a break from squinting at tiny things. So instead I've started painting up the central cockpit parts (floor, IP, stick, pilot's seat, radios, etc) that go into the next steps.

I reduced the size of the part in my opening post so it would amply fit. But, when installing the gunsight now the windscreen would again NOT fit, touching the gunsight. I simply removed and discarded the aforementioned part and just installed the gunsight. The windscreen was masked inside and out, painted, and I installed it to get past this debacle. Life is too short. Not very serious, not much can be seen. I have strong doubts anyone at Eduard tested their set though... On to the Eduard flap inside detail. I removed existing detail according to the instructions, and

From the latest SH newsletter; "One of the most exciting models we are going to release this spring is, no doubt, the Westland Whirlwind Mk.I in 1/32, which is in the final stage of preparations now."

It's mostly OOB but not the usual colour combo for a Merlin.

Great engines all! Thanks Tom for starting the thread and Maru for the suggestion - engines and cockpits can really be little models within a model! Here's my R-2800 Double Wasp from Tamiya's magnificent F4U-1A kit. Cheers, Kirby

Thanks for that comparison, Max. Hopefully this new kit will attract the aftermarket attention that the Matchbox kit failed to in its more than 40-year existence! Here's the instrument panel I scratch-built, compared with the Matchbox/ICM one: Kev

First color on. Got a little carried away in the nose area, I'll have to put some of the light gull gray back. Then there's the dark gull gray to add.

After spending some time creating the cut images for stencils (hours), I finally got some more paint on this puppy. Early in the 109s development there were quite a few changes / evolution in the size and placement of factory markings. Not fretting over total accuracy but want to get things to fit into a general time frame , late 1938ish. Next is some red , then black. Gettin' there, putputput

Great job thru the topic. Something by me... 1/32 F-16 Aires