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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/17/2019 in all areas

  1. 24 points

    MiG-21MF "1910" Trumpeter 1:32

    This time the model with Polish insignia. MiG-21MF with side number 1910 stationed in Minsk Mazowiecki. The model is Trumpeter 1:32 scale, I hope that eventually someone will release a new version of this model. Model as always straight from the box.
  2. 23 points

    P-51D-20-NA Col. John D. Landers

    Hi all, my another Mustang finished. Tamiya kit 1/32 Barracuda wheels HGW wet transfers Eduard Look dashboard Lifelike decals All colour MRP & Gunze Sangyo SM01
  3. 21 points

    RAF F-4J(UK) Phantom 1/32 Tamiya

    Hello, this is my last model, an F-4J(UK) Phantom (E / ZE353) with the 74 (F)Squadron, also known as "Tiger Squadron", based at RAF Wattisham in the late 80s. The model is based on the Tamiya kit with the addition of the Black Box resin cockpit, GMT resin J-79 exhausts and engine auxiliary air intake, resin wheels and a resin SUU-23A gun pod. I made the reinforcement strip running under the fuselage along the wing using plasitcard. Other minor details come from the Eduard PE sheet. I've also added some hydraulic hoses and plates to the undercarriage wheel bays. The pitot and AOA tubes are made of metal by Master. A couple of red coloured resin FOD were added to the main jet intakes. The unique camouflage is done using Tamiya and Gunze colors: for the greenish bluish gray I made my own mixture. Decals are from Yellowhammer, but I've used small roundels from a Xtradecals sheet... the Yellowhammer's are too big. CIAO! Piero
  4. 13 points
    This has to be one of my favourite kits. I have built quite a few. After we lost our little Daughter i built one and sold it for charity , along with an airfix 1/24 spitfire , so i have a very soft spot for it. Both are on this site. This one came courtesy of a facebook auction group and it came with Paragon , UC set , exhaust set , and ammo belts. It also came with Radus belts , airscale instruments , brass gun barrels , fasteners and grils , and Barracuda Wheels , and for a fantastic price. I have just added to it with eduard interior and instrument panel , with plans to add the metal legs from SAC and radiator from Eduard. I have the Tamiya 1/32 Mosquito so i can use that as referrence to scratchbuild some details too. This will be my own most detailed one so far. Im very much looking forward to the journey. I like the Tamiya 1/32 mosquito , its exquiset , but to me the Airfix one is a bigger challenge and it has more "soul". Stay tuned , this will be a long one....
  5. 13 points

    1/48th B-17C - Revell/Koster

    The B-17 is my all-time favourite aircraft and I've always wanted to build an early version in 1/48th scale. I bought the excellent Koster conversion a few years ago which gives you a new rear fuselage and stabilisers to convert the Monogram B-17G to an earlier B/C/D model. The conversion also comes with a Cheyenne tail turret and staggered waist gun set up to make a late G-model - parts I'd used previously: DSC_0129 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr The main components are all vacuform, and are molded very crisply. There are crystal clear canopies (the B/C/D models had a different flight deck arrangement as well as a more heavily framed nose piece) as well as decals for an early USAAF B-17C/D: DSC_0123 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr I decided to actually use the Revell B-17F kit, as it requires less modification to the nose than using the Monogram B-17G. However, you still have to do a fair bit of surgery to backdate the F to the earlier models. The nose needs cutting off and a section removed due to the shorter noses on the B/C/D models. The whole rear fuselage also needs removing just aft of the radio room: IMG_E1390 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr The new vacform rear fuselage can then be offered up to the Revell fuselage: IMG_E1388 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr Here the shortened nose has been reattached and mods carried out to the cheek windows which were the earlier style without the later enlarged cheek gun windows seen on the late E-model onwards: IMG_E1428 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr It was then a case of painting the interior and gluing everything together: IMG_1633 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_1632 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr And that's as far as things have progressed so far. All pretty straight-forward as far as conversions go, helped by the excellent quality and fit of the Koster parts. This will eventually be finished as an RAF Fortress MkI as a tribute to the pioneers of daylight bombing very early in the war. Tom
  6. 13 points
    John Craft

    Corsair Mk II last show

    I decided at the last minute to take the 1/32 Corsair Mk II to one final show. Went to the 2019 SprueDoo in Little Rock, Arkansas this Saturday. Thought about not taking it, but decided to anyway. Glad I did!! I won a Gold, Best Aircraft and Best of Show Military! My first Best of Show! I was shocked and very honored!
  7. 12 points

    Vietnam Hun "nashville sound"

    started to add some PE in the wheelwells and on the wings
  8. 12 points
    Brett M

    Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1 Birdcage Corsair

    Good thing no one has noticed that I put some decals on upside down....or zoomed in Random update, decided I would replace the headrest.....added the beading around the front and back of the headrest using stretched sprue. I think it's not bad...but let me know what you think!
  9. 10 points
    Here's the final photos of the Wingnut Wings Felixstowe I completed. I had posted a few pictures earlier in the WIP Section but these are much better shots. This particular model was completed as aircraft 4291, a Saunders built machine delivered to Killinghome on 4/20/1918. This aircraft, under the command of TC Patterson abd AH Munday, shot down Zeppelin L62 over Heligoland on May 10. In July of '18, she was transfered to the fledgling US Naval Air Service, after which it was painted overall black and had spot lamps mounted under the wings for nighttime operations. 4291 came to an inglorious end (along with the US Sailor responsible) when said sailor used a match to check the fuel level in the main tank. Seeing as this beast is too big to use my regular photo setup with, I had to shoot it outside on a cloudy day. Just as I snapped the pic a fortuitous gust of wind came along. Great timing. Running up Engine 1. I chose to model her as she would have appeared just before being painted black, as the natural look of the wood and linen was more appealing to me than any of the dazzle schemes. I hope you like it and as always, feedback, comments and critiques welcome. Cheers Mike
  10. 9 points
    Tolga ULGUR

    1/32 Revell Junkers Ju-88A-1

    I have used corrected resin tail and rudder which was purchased somewhere in Germany years ago. You can see the shape difference of the Revell s part and the corrected resin unit.
  11. 9 points

    Lancaster weathering

    OK, consider these two well used warhorses: then these: and this, one of my favourite Lancaster pictures and I would suggest fairly typical of your "average" condition: Winter in Bomber County:
  12. 9 points

    A6M2b Zero - shades of grey

    On with the engine. Radials are lovely to look at, and I think it has to do with the repetition of shapes and symmetry. When it comes to masking and painting however that means everything 14 or even 28 times over! The same applies to producing tiny bits like these spark plugs and clamps that I cut from hypodermic needles. Mass production thinking is the key. As you can see, I have gone with the colours in the tweak list. In essence it is pretty black, with the central bits in a blue enamel. The kit engine is a mish-mash of the Sakae 12 and 21, which was a bit disappointing in a way. They are very different engines. I sanded off the kit pipes from the rocker covers, and added my own styrene connecting pipes lower down as they are on the Sakae 12 - these appear to be natural aluminium. You may have noticed that I added baffles to the top of each cylinder, with a central pipe and a guide hole for the spark-plug lead. they don't look so good from the top as they are just straight styrene. The actual baffles are intricate shapes that were probably pressed metal. It would be great if someone could 3-d print these. On the captured engine photo, you can see a very obvious silver intake on the top cylinder of the rear radial bank. I assume it is a duct for cooling air into the ancillary compartment? This is my styrene version of it... Here the basic parts are, painted up and ready for assembly. Now I hope some researchers are watching since I need to paint the engine firewall and cowling supports next. I'm not sure that Tamiya have the colours right, based on photographs that I have seen. This is the dark art of black and white to colour alchemy of course! The cowling supports look like they could be black, not Aotake. The firewall is invisible of course. Any pointers here would be much appreciated. Sean
  13. 9 points
    Tolga ULGUR

    1/32 Revell Junkers Ju-88A-1

    Some progress. Painting of the wings terminated
  14. 9 points
    Hi all! With the undercarriage and wheel wells done I now started work on the tail booms. The construction is a bit tricky due to multiple parts requiring careful alignment before committing to glue. KH sure did design the kit for both engines to be left exposed. The fit of the engine covers was just atrocious and more clean up is required...
  15. 8 points
    Managed to get the rest of the camo on tonight. Just masking up various other parts now. Still got landing lights and a few other bits to put on and of course the weapons.
  16. 8 points

    Aviatik 'Berg' D.I

    Hi all, I've been working on preparing the wings, fin/rudder, ailerons, tail planes, elevators and their associated support struts. The struts should, I think, have steel reinforcing pins moulded through them, but I found the 'Z' shaped cabane struts had ends without pins. Also the fuselage indents for locating these struts had no locating hole. The single piece fin and rudder had no locations for attaching it to the fuselage and neither did the tail planes. The separate ailerons and elevators also has no locating pins/holes. Therefore I added support pins of 0.6 mm diameter for the wing struts and ailerons and 0.4 mm diameter pins to locate the fin/rudder, elevators and tail planes. Mike
  17. 8 points
    Thanks boys! I spent most of yesterday assembling and finish fitting my new 1/24th-1/32nd JH Models stand. This thing is WAY bigger than I thought and substantially larger than my 1/32nd-1/48th JH Models stand. Its going to fit most larger models and is quite well built and reinforced. Its footprint however may take up more room than I want. I subbed in some felt I pilfered from the wife in place of the supplied rubber bands to glue to the places where the stand contacts the model. I set it up for the F-104D, and test fit the tip tanks: I removed the tanks and wings and did some finish sanding on the fuselage tonight followed by some needed filling. I plan on getting the filling/sanding, re-scribing as well as the intakes added and smoothed prior to gluing the wi Gs and tip tanks on permanently. Ater that I will add the slats and flaps and I should be ready for the prep stages of paint!
  18. 7 points

    1/24 Airfix F6F-5 Hellcat

    All done Build thread here: Very hard to photograph being so large... Surprising how different the colours look with a differing background... And, again, don’t usually do black & white for aircraft, but it kind of suits the aircraft... Thanks for following along, Guy
  19. 7 points
    Rick K

    SH Tempest Mk.V

    A Thing Divine For Nothing Natural I Ever Saw So Nobel Special Hobby Tempest Mk.V #32052 was used for Evan Mackies mount. Mackie, RNZAF, was the highest scoring Tempest ace with 20+ kills. Albeit, most of Mackies kills were in Spitfires. This kit is a most difficult build. I started this almost 2 years ago and binned it several times as my MoJo was clearly flattened with this. From the cockpit, wing root and landing gear construction offered me plenty of WTFFF! and Are You Kidding Me! moments. There was a good chance you may have heard my screams. This kit is clearly recommended for experienced modellers only. I chose Mackies build as I have several Kiwi friends and the lack of ordinance and invasion stripes show the beautiful lines of the Tempest. Weathering kept to a minimum as this aircraft was delivered to Mackie May 1945. See my build log. Build Details Yahu 3214 IP, center panel only as side panels do not fit Barracuda 32334 Nose Correction Set, 32140 Tempest Wheels, 32011 Spitfire Cockpit Upgrade Part II (Acemaker II gunsight only) Master Model 32096 Tempest Mk.V "short" Cannon Tips Maketar Masks 32122 Tempest Mk.V REXX 32043 exhausts ANYZ AN011 .5mm Braided Thread, AN016 Line Connectors MV Lenses 197 Amber, LS800 Red & Green, PN21 Clear Albion Aluminum Slide Fit Tubes .3mm, .5mm, .7mm and .9mm MR Paint 77 Nato Black 110 RAF Green 111 RAF Interior Grey Green 112 RAF Medium Sea Grey 115 RAF Ocean Grey 118 RAF Sky 122 RAF Marking Yellow 123 RAF Marking Red 135 Insignia White 183 Oxford Blue Vallejo 306 Dark Rubber Various Alclad Colors Tamiya X22 Clear, XF86 Flat Clear MiG Washes Dark Wash Streaking Grime 1203 Engine Oil 1408 PLW Deep Grey 1602 PLW Green Brown 1612 MiG Pigments Light Dust 3002 Black Smoke P023 Rust P025 Russian Earth P034 These publications, highly recommended, were critical helping me on this build. Especially the landing gear rake. Airframe Minature No.4 Hawker Tempest Osprey 27 Typhoon and Tempest Aces of WWII Warts and all this build yielded some great lessons. Thank you all for your encouragement and support during this build.
  20. 7 points

    Aviatik 'Berg' D.I

    Hi all, On the top of the fuselage and to the rear of the radiator is a condensation matrix for cooling radiator steam back to liquid and returning it back into the cooling system through a pipe connected to the rear of the assembly. Apparently this avoided a build up of steam pressure being lost through the filler cap and losing coolant. Anyway I wasn't happy with the resin one piece part in the kit. I felt it was too large at the base and anyway the top was slightly off centre with the bottom. Also the kit doesn't appear to have the 90 degree pipe at the back of the assembly. So I cut the part in two, re-shaped the base, connected them with brass tube and added the rear pipe using annealed 0.8 mm brass rod. Strangely the photo-etch in the kit supplies only one 'matrix' disc for the condensation matrix, which presumably like a radiator, would have the matrix from front to rear? I used the photo-etch from the front of the matrix (as that will be more visible) and drilled 0.3 mm diameter holes in the rear face to replicate the matrix, Mike
  21. 7 points

    Aviatik 'Berg' D.I

    Hi all, The undercarriage assembly is completed. Struts modified by removing the pre-moulded axle ends and bungee suspension cords. Cross bracing anchors points added to the bottom front of the forward undercarriage struts. Axle secured to the undercarriage struts and 0.4 mm diameter lead wire used to replicate the bungee cord suspension. Bracing bar in kit replaced (too short) with 0.9 mm diameter brass tube, Mike
  22. 7 points

    HK B-25H

    A bit more progress. decided to mask/spray the mouth using the decals as a template for masks on my cutter. Came out better than I thought, so happy with that. I've applied a pin wash all over (photos to follow), and then it's just a case of putting it all together. Thanks for all the generous comments
  23. 6 points

    Lancaster weathering

    A look at the top of the wing, and fuselage, of a Lanc showing how weathered they got: Jari
  24. 6 points

    Make the others jealous

    Ok ... so this stuff arrived a couple of weeks ago ... Unfortunately at about the same time ... or maybe a few days earlier ... I had a couple of software updates ... They usually go off without a hitch ... but this time with the Catalina update and the iOS 13 one - something went wrong with photo sync. Good thing about the internet is ... you just type the issue into Google and find out that everyone else has the same problem ... There's still an issue with the new "Music" app ... it switches off the equaliser/pre-amp after every track ... but at least I can download the photos off my phone now! A LARGE box arrived from Frontline with some goodies for RAAF builds: With large kit boxes inside ... An EA.18G ... A couple of F/A.18A's With Australian Markings included ... The pilot is damned Collingwood supporter!!! And an F.35 model ... of which we're getting the real deal here someday. And meanwhile this came from Metro's ... cleverly disguised with the wrong box art for the ad ... That makes Just 2 SWS kits short of the entire 1/32 collection now ... The Navy Spad ... and the Do.335A-12 Rog
  25. 6 points

    Bladder problems

    Thanks guys! Now Available!!! www.Zactomodels.com
  26. 6 points

    Bladder problems

    That title though... Sorry, couldn't resist. I've received several requests to make replacement parts for the nasty rubber bladder parts included in the Trumpeter 1/32 F-14 Tomcat kit. The rubber parts are difficult to glue, difficult to paint and some have even had them weep oils that ruined their paint. As with rubber wheels, there is the fear that they will deteriorate and completely fail in time. While there are basically 3 positions for the wings, extended, swept and over-swept, I decided to only offer two, extended and swept. Those who want to do over-swept will have to do some filing and sanding. Here are the swept position parts: The bladders inflate using air pressure from the engines so there is some variability as to how much they inflate. I've found pics at cat-launch where they appear over-inflated while in others they have relaxed and the ribs in the under-structure show. I have made the (extended wing) bladders slightly relaxed to where the sub-structure barely shows. Those who want it to be more prominent can sand away material and those who want them more inflated can add material. Here are the extended wing parts: The stock kit has the wing glove sealing plate intersection with the forward section of the fuselage flush and have the rubber bladder notched to allow this. In reality the intersection should not be flush the full length, but flush at the front and raised at the rear. I made the bladders without the cut-out notch forcing the parts to fit properly. The parts in the previous pics are just sitting on the kit. Here you can see how they will look when everything is glued: Also note that the gap between the sealing pates and wing in the previous photos shows the parts just sitting on the kit with only a little tape holding things together. The gap will be tighter on a fully assembled kit (sorry, no pics to show this). The actual bladders are a Teflon coated canvas. They do get scuffed up and show wear. In some cases slight wrinkles show and in some pics it appears as though they have had large sections patched with slightly different colored canvas. Check your references for the plane you are building. I chose to make the bladders smooth and clean. You can add scuffing, wrinkles and patching if you choose or just (have fun and) replicate this and the weathering with paint. I will be pouring more production molds in the coming days and making some simple instruction sheets (the parts are drop-fit so there's not much to write about). I'm hoping to have these ready to release in the next week or two.
  27. 6 points

    Mech resin garage kit

    This has been on the back burner whilst I was building the hellcat, but had time to do a little painting over the last few nights. I’m learning a lot and having fun. Cheers. Matt
  28. 6 points

    Lightning (English Electric) Completed

    I'm sticking a fork in this one and calling it done. Yet another perfectly good model with all kinds of potential heading off to collect dust on my shelf. Some weathering done with pastels oils and acrylics. Remember I strive for mediocrity Hope it meets approval.
  29. 5 points
    composite guru

    Hasegawa 1/16 Sopwith Camel

    Hi, not been around for a while as I’ve been building smaller kits. I have always wanted to build a museum type model of the Camel and finally go around to buying one. This is the plastic version and not the larger wooden type so creating the wood effect was a learning curve for me as I’d never done it before. Here are some pics of my build for you to look at. As you can see I’m trying to rig the structure as it would have been using reference photos as the kit asks you to rig most of the parts with one continuous piece of line. I’m making the turnbuckles by hand as no one seems to make 1/16 versions. That’s been a job as there are around 300 in the whole aircraft. Anyway enjoy the build. Hope the image links work ok. Matt
  30. 5 points
    Rick K

    Fa330 Fock Achgelis

    My plan is to crank this out by November then start something really big. The Fa330 always interested me as a unique aircraft with an equally unique mission. This was towed by a U-Boat so the pilot could see beyond U-Boat horizon view and report any enemy activity. Finally there is a lot of rigging and I will use either RB or GasPatch turnbuckles. This will get me feeling comfortable for my WNW build, next on the bench. That's right Kiwi Mike...no typo here. 30 minutes into this build I was already regretting this. This aircraft is mostly tubular and the parts are typical short run injection. Loads of flash and seams. Cleaning these tubes are going to drive me batty. So I will cut all remaining tubular parts from .5mm, .4mm and .3mm styrene rod. This will actually be easier than cutting from sprue and cleaning. Building balsa wood and tissue models experience will come in handy. Resin main control pully wheel (feel free to correct me on correct definition) and control stick installed with epoxy. I also wrapped the control stick handle with .2mm lead wire. A brush coat of paint will give the handle a ribbed appearance. Spar and 4 sub control pully wheels are cut from styrene. More fun with .5mm and .4mm styrene rods. The rudder gets a .4mm rod on both sides and will be sanded down and this was fabric. Will also add grab handle I cut out at top of rudder.
  31. 5 points

    HK 1/32 B-17G 96th BG/337th BS

    All- Here she is, in all her splendor! I may still fiddle with the weathering a little, but I sure am pleased. I wasn't able to get her into work today for good photos, so I snapped a few outside in the overcast with an actual camera, rather than a cell phone. I started this kit over 4 years ago, and its kind of sentimental to get this one done. She depicts my Grandfather's aircraft, 44-6888, of the 96th BG/337th BS. Her crew unofficially named her "Ragged But Right". The war ended before nose art could be applied. My Grandfather, Joseph Denver, was a bombardier and completed 13 missions at the end of WWII. He first mission was in February of 1945, and he remained in Europe until 1946 as part of the occupation forces. He flew most of his missions in this plane,and that is why I chose to depict her. This is the HK 1/32 B-17G, their initial release, with all of the bells and whistles from Eduard, Profimodeller, and some scratch building. She's airbrushed with AK Extreme Metals and Model Master enamels, and sports a combination of kit decals, Kits World, and custom J Bot Decals for the markings. Here's some photos: DSC_3323 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3324 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3325 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3326 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3327 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3328 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3329 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3336 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr DSC_3338 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr I wanted to close this post with the Eight Air Force's letter to St. Peter, which is quite sobering: Let them in, Peter, they are so tired; Give them the couches where the angels sleep. Let them wake whole again to find new dawn fired with sun, not war. And may their peace be deep. Remember where the broken bodies lie... And give them things they like. Let them make noise. God knows how young they were to have to die! Give swing bands, not gold harps, to these our boys. Let them love, Peter - they have had no time - Girls sweet as meadow wing, with flowering hair. They should have trees and bird song, hills to climb - Tell them how they are missed. Say not to fear; It's going to be alright with us down here. All always folks, comments and critiques are welcome. Thanks for tuning in. - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA
  32. 5 points
    Not a LSP but this baby is bigger than my 1/32 PhantomII! My daughter loved the real plane at the USAF Museum in Dayton. She had my wife look all over for it online so I did my best to make a quality build out of it. Surprisingly the seems are really tight on this. lacking detail but hey that's what painting skills are for :-) So Revell released this before the public unveiling. They tried to predict what it might look like. Not so close. I took pics from the real Spirit, pulled out every decal sheet I own and found individual decals that would make a legit looking bomber. I tried to get some better shots outside tonight to show the weathering I did. Somewhat better. I think in the end though I was a little too heavy with the top coat of grimey black and splotches of tire black. Next time even less of a covering would show off the weathering better. I tried this in B&W to see if it shows better online Next here's some glamour shots... I think this one shows the weathering the best And the pièce de résistance, a bronze award at the Cincinnati Scale Modelers Show last weekend!
  33. 5 points
    Cees Broere

    TELFORD 2019

    I will be present both days manning the HK Models stand. So don't be shy and say hello. Cheers Cees
  34. 5 points

    Make the others jealous

    I don't know what I was thinking but it was a good price, this kit arrived today. (image borrowed off the internet)
  35. 5 points
    Here is one, in b&w but the caption says it was in 1944 and you can see a lighter colour in the nose turret: Jari
  36. 5 points
    Hi everybody! Thank you all, I appreciate you like my work! Absolutely agree, moreover, problems how to dye the surface are gone using real materials Finally, I have gathered some pics of the current state. The fuselage itself is complete, the port side wing needs only a few touches to finish it. I am slowly approaching to the moment, when all the rigging takes it's place. For a long time, I have been thinking about the best way how to make the structure of the fuselage. A friend of mine, who is an RC modeller gave me an advice to try carbon rods or profiles, available at RC models shops. It is quite difficult to glue this material together, as well as it is almost imposible to bend it. BUT, it is a great material as it keeps its straightness. It is very solid and strong, but easy to cut or sand it. I used those rods make all the masters and then as reinforcements whithin the parts when they were casted. Traverse struts of the fuselage are those carbon rods only. The result is satisfactory, strong enough and nice to work with it...
  37. 5 points

    Airfix 1/24 Hellcat

    Hi All, the big airfix hellcat is finally finished! An enjoyable build of a really Great kit. No real issues just took some careful building and plenty of dry fitting before glueing in place. The blue was tricky to get any depth and variation and didn’t really like being worked with oils. I used a neutral wash for panel lines and as a filter. Resin wheels was the only after market and all markings are painted. cheers Matt
  38. 5 points
    Hello gentlemen, Sme details on the masts of the central float, always renforced with inox tube Contrail profile. Rhodoid square is only there for the photo.......Six hatches are missing and will be cast in resin. At the rear of the masts the "big" pulley where the rudder cable runs. Here, two small pulleys on each side.
  39. 5 points

    Revell 1/32 Me-262 in stock Spruebrothers

    Well, as Ray pointed out, the "well" had to be created to accommodate the flaps on retracted position. If I were to have a choice, I would have left the slats retracted. I have seen five different 262s when this was designed. On all five, if the slats were pushed back, they stayed back. Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know, I know, gravity+airflow controlled slats and all that, but fact remains that on an aircraft resting on the ground, slats stayed however they were pushed. If pushed back, they stayed back. When the engine started, vibrations would "disturb" that "resting position" and they would deploy anyway. They are movable. For years I have seen people tearing into each other over this kind of stuff, yet all they did was argue over what they read on the internet, basically fighting over Google results. I had the opportunity to touch these machines and I am telling you what I saw, not some third-hand copy-pasted stuff. Radu
  40. 5 points

    MH 60 Academy SeaHawk. 1/35 scale.

    Paint job is done.
  41. 5 points
    Brett M

    Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1 Birdcage Corsair

    Thank you both. Not sure how weathering the rear bulkhead will be, but I'm sure I'll add some chipped paint or scratches....somewhere. More minor updates for today. Unfortunately, I still haven't found the HGW seatbelts in the US. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to look? Seat assembled, some chipping added. I will probably take some of the Tamiya weathering pastels to add more wear through the paint where the seatbelts would rub against the seat. I decided not to do much else with the bands on the O2 tank, since it won't be very visible once the fuselage is closed up. And headrest....Tamiya calls for grey for the headrest mount. I haven't found a good picture that show's different. Any opinions here? As always, comments, critiques, "Brett, you've screwed up, change XXXX" are all welcome! Thanks for looking. Brett
  42. 5 points

    Tamiya 1/32 P-51D Mustang

    One more post for today! I have managed to finish the cockpit and it’s side walls. The barracuda parts are fantastically detailed but a few of mine had some minor shrinkage. The cockpit placards and stencil decals are lovely and a great bit of detail. I thought they were writing but have a similar block letter style like the Eduard pre-painted parts. It may not be 100% accurate (mustang fans, please forgive me!) but I’m loving the detail! First the cockpit. The hgw belts are great as always. The barracuda seat is nice but not much more detailed than the kit part, though the backpad is much nicer. As is the mustang standard I did the work black showing wood underneath. The wood texture is the decals that came with the seatbelts. The barracuda battery and radio are definitely worth the money though! The gun sight has been left off till I put the armoured glass in later so I don’t break it off. The sidewalls are a wealth of wonderful detail, even oob, but with the barracuda resin and decals they get taken to a new level. I still need to semi matt coat them and add a little bit of weathering. The photos tend to show up little flaws that are either not visible to the naked eye, or will never be seen once finished. Hopefully tomorrow I can seal up the fuselage and get going on the wings and wheel bay. So much detail to add!
  43. 5 points
    So a little more work done over the last few days, first up I built up the bomb bay assembly, not to many parts really but some care is needed in getting everything square but the close fit of parts does help. In general I think the interior is pretty good on this kit, however I do think the bomb racks are very very clunky and poorly done but not a lot will be seen when complete. I believe Eduard make a couple of sets to replace a lot of this but its an expensive upgrade to be honest, I do think when its all painted up and closed up nobody will really notice to much as its hardly like a B-17, Lancaster or even a Mosquito for that matter with big wide open bomb bays showing everything off. I've also test fitted the whole interior in to the fuselage before moving on to adding any further detail and the fit is very good, here are a couple of shots. and a quick shot of the cockpit opening. I've got a good picture on which direction I'm going on this now and which area's to add further detail to. The nose and waist areas will get the main attention from here now. Regards. Andy
  44. 5 points

    Transporting Aircraft

    This is one of my favorites. I very much need to model at least one truck & Komet combo. Someone else did here (smaller scale though)... http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2009/08/25/after-action-report-ipms-national-convention-pt-iii/
  45. 4 points

    Revell 1:32 P-51D

    My 4th completed build this year (tap myself on the shoulder ). I found this kit surprisingly nice, especially the detail in the cockpit is very good. A bit of care needs to be taken during building, but actually hardly any filler was needed. Paints as usual from Gunze, the colors are my very own interpretation of this much discussed subject. Add ons were some Eduard placards in the cockpit and again RB seatbelts. Hope you like. Lothar
  46. 4 points
  47. 4 points

    1/32 WNW Sopwith Pup

    Pete - I made the pulleys on my lathe. Some general progress... Moving to the top wing next. Thanks for following along and commenting, everyone. Ken
  48. 4 points
    Mr Creosote

    Revell Mosquito.

    Work continues on my Mosquito despite other projects that delayed this build. I have prioritized this build by tackling the time consuming problem areas first. For this build these areas are the wings and nacelles. Both wings were warped both span and cord-wise with the port wing being the least warped and the starboard wing the worst. My solution was to use brass tubing attached to the lower wing halfs held in place with sheet plastic "saddles". The port wing. And the starboard. The brass rod for each wing was only glued ,with CA, inboard of the nacelles. This would allow the brass rod to 'float" if I needed to adjust the any misalignment of outer wing panels. The forward tab was notched and an opening was made for a brass rod that will be inserted into the tubing when the wings are attached to the fuselage. The rod will run nearly the length of the tubing in each wing. This is probably overkill but it will make for a solid join. All in all an old school solution for an old school kit. RD
  49. 4 points

    1/32 WNW Sopwith Pup

    woodgrain done with oils A little chipping also... loading up the gun... Still slogging through the general painting.
  50. 4 points

    1/32 or 1/35 ?

    1/35th scale is the scale of Satan. I refuse to do any aircraft that are in 1/35th scale; for example, I'd love to do a Hind in a large scale, but I will not do it in 1/35th scale. Seriously though, it irritates me no end that not only did Tamiya ruin armour forever for this modeller by choosing this offscale (1/35th) for their armour, but now this wretched offscale is polluting aircraft, becoming the preferred scale for helicopters, and I've even seen a few aeroplanes in it. I believe the only reason Tamiya chose this scale, instead of the long-established 54mm or 1/32nd scale is their bean-counters figured nobody would notice the difference and they could make a few extra bucks (or a lot of extra bucks - this is Tamiya, after all) by doing armour in a slightly smaller scale. That's my theory and I'm sticking with it! Rant over. Regards, Learstang
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