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About amurray

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    Hooked For Life

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  1. Exceptional finish! I have debated buying the HPH MiG-15. Can't bring myself to do it, yet.
  2. Kevin, Sorry to be so late responding to you. You are correct that I was a victim of Photobucket. It upset me so badly that I dropped a number of modeling projects. I got on to other projects but will return to this project. I will re-enter the "Photobucketed" photos using a different hosting site. One other thing happened at the same time Photobucket decided to screw all their loyal customers: Rudy's tactful warning to me (see above) that I discarded in an off-handed manner became all too apparent. I was in the process of recognizing the wisdom of Rudy's observation and thereby re-building the interior shape of the ducts when Phtobucket struck. The two disappointments one on top of the other caused me to set this project aside. As soon as I finish an F-94C for a friend's father I will return to finish this project complete with restored photos. Thanks, Art
  3. Yak-25 Family Vautour F-80, T-33,F-94A,B,&C, F-86 (all Tamiya) F-89 family Ki-21 Sally G4M2 Betty
  4. WOW!!! Outstanding work! Thanks for the many photos. They show the kit very well.
  5. Great work, Karl. The paint job is especially nice. Do you have any photos of the underside of the model? I would love to see them.
  6. So Cool! Great job on a great kit!
  7. In looking at photos of the nose of the FR.10 it shouldn't be to too hard to modify the kit nose. Another option is to take a piece of bass wood, carve it and shape it to make a mold to "smash form" a new nose. Then just cut out a place for the side mount camera covering and replace with a scratchbuilt part. The forward camera covering would then only require some scribing to replicate. Sounds like a cool project!
  8. Couldn't see the forest for the trees!
  9. This just keeps getting better and better!!!
  10. As I mentioned earlier Revell did a great job of molding the exhaust ports in the open position. Well, such fine work goes unnoticed or looks out of place if one does not open up all the vent grills and replace them with vanes made of plastic or PE brass scraps. First step: Drill holes in the molded vents. Second step: Thin the plastic behind the vents so as to make it easier to open them up. I used my Dremel Miti-Mite and a round diamond-tipped burr. Third step: Open up the vents with a #11 Xacto blade. Don't worry if you make an opening too large. You can always go back and put in plastic strip to recover the proper shape or dimension. Fourth step: Use an assortment of files to even out and smooth the edges. I now have to experiment a little with brass and plastic to see which material I'll use for the vanes.
  11. I've started gluing pieces together and right off learned a lesson the hard way. Do not glue the the locator tabs on the ends of the wings as the instructions would have one do. I glued them and then parts 37, 38 and 40 (for the Left Wing; 44, 45, 47 for the Right Wing) didn't fit so great. The problem is that gluing the locator tabs causes the wingtip to be too narrow, too compressed. Leave the tips unglued, let the tips "float", and one can then just let parts 37, 38 and 40 set the proper spacing when they are glued to the wing. I will remember this when I build this kit again in the future as I wish to do.
  12. You are really coming along nicely. One of my goals this year is to do a resin kit. Your build is a great tutorial for that endeavor.
  13. Rudy, My test fits show this shouldn't be much of a problem. I'm only moving the splitter about 1/32 of an inch. I appreciate your bringing this to my attention. I'll certainly keep it in mind as I permanently afix the parts. Nice job on your Hunter!
  14. The cockpit looks great! I like the detail and the wash you did. Looks very realistic! Care to share any of your tips for doing the wash you did?
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