Grizly

Oops! I just noticed that I forgot to remove the masks from the landing lights. Fixed.

Regarding the 250 pound bombs and carriers, they were provided as a gift. As far as I know, they are not available commercially.

The aircraft represents, "Butch the Falcon" flown by 402 Squadron. As the title sez, the model is based on the Revell kit with a little Eduard in the cockpit, 3D printed bomb pylons and 250 pound bombs, custom stencils (the AE Q) and custom decals (the serial number and nose art) which complement the kit decals. Camouflage paints are all Xtracolor enamels with Tamiya acrylics for detail parts and Alclad II for the matte finish. An excellent kit.

Grunticus Unfortunately, my 78 year old hands are no longer capable of free hand demarkation lines. I use masks slightly raised above the surface to get the desired effect.

Timing can be everything when it comes to modelling. Leading Edge Models (lemdecal.com) had an extensive series of Canadair Sabre decals in 1/32. These decals not only included unit markings but also a complete set of maintenance markings. Below you can see my Hasegawa build of a Mk.6 using the Leading Edge decals (and Cutting Edge drop tanks). With a little luck you might be able to find examples on the likes of Ebay. Failing that CanMilAir (canmilair.com) have decals for four different Canadair Sabres.

As the subject sez, it's my 1/32 HKM Boston. Additions included Eduard's cockpit detail set asnd Sutton harness and I replaced the US 500 pound bombs with the excellent RAF 500 pound bombs from Belcher Bits. A great kit, however, fitting the cowling around the short exhaust stacks did test my patience a little.

For all you LSP enthusiasts that missed out on the Arado first time around, go for it as it is a very nice model. Here's mine with the Eduard colour interior detail set.

It's been a number of years since Hasegawa last offered their 1/32 Curtiss BF2C-1, Boeing F4B-4 and Boeing P-12 inter-war biplane kits. Sure would be nice if they were to do a re-pop. Even better if they were to upgrade the kits a tad. Failing that, how about the likes of ICM taking on the task. They would make nice companions to the likes of their Gloster Gladiator. Speaking of Hasegawa 1/32 models, doing a re-pop of the likes of their P-47 Thunderbolt would also be appreciated as it is certainly a cleaner offering than the Trumpeter kit.

I'm getting towards the end of my A-20J/Boston build. I used the kit's metal nose gear and went with the all plastic for the main gear. While both are robust enough for the job, I do recommend you at least use the metal nose gear as it is most certainly stronger than the plastic option. While a form of white metal, it is extremely rigid. As an aside, I also used an after market 3D printed instrument panel which proved to be not worth the added cost as it is barely visible once the fuselage is all buttoned up. Also, being that I modelled it as a Boston, I acquired the Belcher Bits Brit 500 pound bombs. As Tony the Tiger would say, these are great!

I have the subject kit and my question has to do with the external plating as provided by their etch parts Ep-11, 12, 13 and 14, which apparently provided additional protection to the nose gear area. Since HKM would have you install these parts on their A-20J/K and A-20G kits, am I to assume this was a factory installation and not a field mod. My question is, since the RAF used the Boston IV as a medium bomber rather than as a low level ground attack aircraft, would the external plating have beeen removed as a weight saving undertaking much like the RAF who apparently had no operational requirement for the .50 cal nose guns and apparently had them removed (as specified in the kit instructions). Simply, should I be adding the etch parts to my Boston IV build?

My model represents Colonel Harold Rau's aircraft, "Gentle Annie", a P -38J-15-LO which, according to Juggernut above, should have a landing light under the port wing. Right or wrong, my model has the landing light just outboard of the pitot tube.

Grizly here...... I assume Mike Maben is referring to my P-38J build and my assembly suggestion. I've read posts by others where they followed the steps in the instructions and required considerable amounts of filler and sanding for the lower wing/boom joints. Simply, I attached the lower wing components to the boom halves at the outset. They are 'butt' joints so had to be reenforced with plastic card on the inside. The end result was perfect joints that required absolutely no filler. The following collage shows just that. I also removed the bumps on the lower wing and didn't apply the dive brakes. I discovered after that the wheel wells should have been aluminum. My bad.

I completed my Trumpeter P-38 as Colonel Harold Rau's aircraft "Gentle Annie". While I am happy with the model, it would be great if Tamiya were to offer a P-38J or L in 1/32 scale.

I built the model as a 94 Squadron Kittyhawk 1a as flown by the Canadian ace Stocky Edwards.

It may be old but it can stand up quite well to its newer equivalent by that other company that offers a 1/24 Ju-87B-2. Add some seat belts, additional detail between the firewall and engine and a coat of paint and you can have an eye capturing winner. The figure is from Series 77.