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Picked this up from HLJ, via group order, when Tamiya first released this kit in 2015. Saw plenty of beautiful builds of this kit on LSP. The bar clearly has been raised. This will be an out of box build with exception of instrument panel and gun barrels. Cowlings, .303 and 20mm gun bays will be buttoned up. I'm leaning towards a SEAC scheme. hard to believe there are almost 2 dozen parts here. Primer applied to the future "hard to reach areas". Primer complete. MRP 111 Grey Green, MRP 77 NATO Blac

This is going below my framed copy of Keith Ferris’ “MiG Sweep”. I snagged the 8th TFW patch on eBay recently, and I’m about 90% sure it’s a circa 1960s locally Thai-produced one. Lots of later ones, but none of them look like this, and this is what you see in pics where they have it visible on flight suits. Really tickled with the way it turned out!

the main parts are now epoxied together

OK guys, I'm artistically challenged and need your help with honest criticism. You won't hurt my feelings. I just want to learn and get it as close to right as I can. This is done in oils and any of it can be removed, modified or added too. I want to get some opinions and let it set overnight and look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow.

Thanks for the feedback guys and the chipping and weathering tips. Having said that, I just started! You haven't seen anything yet! As you all know, good weathering is made up of many thin stages and I'm only on Stage 1. Three things come to mind: 1. No chipping will look good or realistic with a glossy finish. I need a flat coat and I'm a long way away from that right now. 2. No chipping will look good or realistic without further weathering. Chipped up birds are almost always dirty. 3. Chipping and weathering is an art and like all art, wh

Thank you again guys. Had some time to let the whole thing sit for a bit so I un-masked the fuselage stripe, home defense bands/Hinomaru, the 53rd Sentai on the tail/rudder and the yellow leading edge area. This is one COLORFUL scheme! It will all be toned down with weathering including chipping, mud, washes and some Tamiya weathering pallets. Im not going as hard on the chipping as I did on my Rufe, but this one looked like it flew a LOT of missions, so it will be weathered fairly thoroughly. Not going to miss this one setting on a table............

Here we go again. I will try to enhance this kit with the Aires detail set that would be perfect, if only it fit properly! I want to build A-4E Bu151059 on its later time. Based on what I have found about it, the plane was repainted, from its first Adversary camo, between 1989-1990, in which the Sand FS 33531 and Brown FS 30219 were inverted. I have no clue why. The fuselage and wings stars, went from grey to brown on the inside part. Photographs suggest that, at least initially, the Adversary red star on the vertical plane, changed to a North Korea star representation, whil

spent today working on the gear sponsons. Not done, but solid progress. I figured it’d be easier just to make my own telescoping oleo struts for the unweighted gear- cheers Pete

After 15 years of tryingto have a model in FSM the MH60s will be published in Fine Scale Modeler for December 2020 issue.

Second.

Hi all, here are my last finished models. 1/32 Hasgawa kits Aires cockpit HGW seat belts, Wet transfers & rivets Eagle wheels Eagle cals All colours MRP

... with a bit of emotion, despite his age (class '66). The first step in a group already started is always exciting. My name is Fabio and I live and work in Rome. I spend my free time between flying and modeling. The latter made me land here and I hope you want to welcome me among you. I started this wonderful hobby in 1972, with a 1/72 Airfix Komet, painted with my mother's enamel, a cherry red! Personal and work issues have kept me away from modeling for many years, but now, fortunately, I have resumed our wonderful hobby. Like someone who has been deprived of something for a long

Yesterday I was finally able to present the completed model to the man that flew the real one, Graham Neil. I had lunch with him and his wife Ronni at their house in Noosa, Queensland, just up the road from me. Here are some pics of the special moment.

Thanks and sure. As mentioned above, photographing this model is hard to do due to the shine which is very reflective, especially on curved surfaces like the fuselage. Here are two of the right wing from different angles that show the chipping, metallic wash and the residual brown staining of that wash, which is a good starting point for further weathering. Cheers, Chuck

Finally done!!!!! This was an awesome kit! So easy to build if OOB. I made it a little complicated by adding goodies. Enjoy!

The builder is slow but the model is very patient. Here is the "finished" payload. I hope to start weathering the main fuselage in the next day or two depending on other responsibilities.

The tank does look big: Jari

- model was painted black - masks are removed not bad, very small amount of over-spray that can be easily fixed to be continued...

Hi Ben, This is indeed a camera pod. Out of my memory, they appeared when the retractable rocket launchers were added under the wings. Hth Thierry

Yeah, I really shouldn't.... Cheers, Chuck

Very nice progress John. You're nearing the finish line! So THAT is what this stuff is! I've been wondered for years what was on the elevator of this Mk I Spitfire. I bet it looks similar on a Mosquito. Cheers, Chuck

started a long, boring process. based on model size (a fuselage height near engine is 21 mm) on the nose should be 3 black rhombuses, spent whole weekend on it, I tried to make them 7*7mm - too big, 5*5 too small, made them 6*6mm - looks good to me to be continued...

since i have some oramask left, i will try. i have constructed some axels for the props and made them removable the small air intakes at the lower front of the nacelles have been scratched

The Hurricane has been dull coated and I am about 85% finished with the weathering. I have also added most of the cleat parts. I am trying for a somewhat worn look without making the plane look ready for the boneyard. I highlighted some of the panel lines and then airbrushed an acrylic fading medium onto the horizontal surfaces in a random manner to give them a uneven faded look. Underneath I added a fair amount of oil, soot and other types of fluid stains to the center part of the fuselage as a lot of photos show this area as pretty grungy on many operational aircraft. I still need to ad

October 29/20 Aren't we all so very lucky to have our hobby during this gawd awful pandemic? With winter almost here and the second wave hitting the world causing new restrictions, I would go nuts without it. BIG Update! The surgery on my right hand was as successful and quick healing as my left hand, so although I still can’t glue tiny parts together, I can do broad strokes like painting- a LOT of painting! The following has a lot of new first for me as follows: 1. Finally using MRP paints for the first time. More on that below.

Hi all, I was going to keep this untill the next GB. But with a new COVID lock-down in Belgium,I might as well start now. Plenty of other kits to go into the GB's.

Thanks Tim and Chris Now continue with adding more details to fuselage: Cheers friends

I'm afraid that's just a tall story. As Radu already pointed out: anyone's grip strength will fail long before enough force is reached to dismember a joint. While with the right technique or through sheer brute force it's fairly easy to dislocate joints and fracture even major bones, dismembering a joint through brute force is very difficult - medieval drawn-and-quarterings would often take hours. Also consider that, if memory serves me right, the world-record for a single handed deadlift is something like 360 kg, the record for a raw double handed lift is something like 460 kg, and with strap

@Michael931080, The big difference was the P-80A and B didn't have an ejection seat. The C version added one and they had to move the windscreen and instrument panel forward 9 inches so the pilot wouldn't lose his legs during an ejection. There were some minor differences in the canopy fairing between the versions, too. The A and B didn't have that little lobe coming out of the aft tip of the canopy frame you see in the above photo. The "F" and "P" were just a change in naming conventions when the USAF was formed in 1948. The P was originally used to designate "p

I think it looks awesome! With phantoms anyone could find a photo to support the level of weathering that matches their idea of what it should be, due to the fact they ranged from fresh paint to the extreme heavily weathered examples in the Vietnam war. I think yours is a really nice mid range level of weathering that it helps show off the detailing and shows good effect, but not too much or over done.

This is about what I was after except maybe a bit more subtle.

Hope this is legible! This from the F-80 parts catalog: The legend for it here: Cheers, Rockie

Buy one, just do it. You know you want too.

Stop showing that F-4E.....I’m going to end up buying one.

There is no right or wrong in weathering as it varied as you can see by the bottom of the tanks of this example: and this one: Jari

Well that was easy. Its on the Spitfire site http://spitfiresite.com/2010/04/supermarine-spitfire-variants-the-initial-merlin-powered-line.html/4 The initial aim with the “C” wing was increasing the armament to four 20-mm Hispano cannon and indeed, initial production Spitfires Mk. Vc were delivered with this type of armament. Combat experience in the Mediterranean had shown that such heavy armament was impractical, and in time the production standard shifted towards two cannon and four machine guns. The structure was re-stressed and strengthened. Also, the S

Coming along magnificently Chuck! Those metallic washes look the biz, I've tried to achieve the same effect with aluminium enamels but it just leaves sparkly residue all over the surface like the model's on its way to a 70's disco. If you want to try and achieve that chipping pattern along structural and rivet lines shown in your picture of the museum Spitfire, I've found this can be most effectively done using a silver pencil (first image) or hairspray if there is sufficient surface detail for your brush to grab onto (second image). Keep up th

This is roughly the weathered Greek AF Phantom that I want to do with my Z-M kit

i have decided to assemble the main three parts to first take care of the seams and then shoot the high build primer so i epoxied the rear fuselage to the mid part, the rearmost part has been glued before

You can make it easier on yourself and not use vast majority of the airframe data/panel numbers. By that period in the mid 70s they were much more reduced in usage, here's examples online from that period with 451 where they're pretty clean as far as data markings go:

Thanks for the welcome back! It feels good to be back building again. The mojo is not full-bore yet though but I can feel my interest coming back more each day. I've yet to finish the scribing and riveting on the bottom so I thought it would be a good time to test some ideas for the metal finish on the stabilizers. These parts are large enough where I'll be able to lay down some pre-shading texture but small enough to be easily wiped if the paint test goes awry. First, I applied my customary black pre-shading onto the stabilizer bottoms using a mix of freehan

hi Nick I did a dry test fit of the nozzle , I have the same issue , the fuselage is a little bit too big than the resin nozzle . before cutting the fuselage as you did , I think I will go to the reskit set . I don't know if the fit will be better , but I know , that the details are "sharp" ..... in fact , I think that most of the modelers have chosen the second option .... ignore the problem I am stunned that the guys from KH could have made such mistake on the tank . I don't want to question Romain's word ( he is a meticulous modeler ) , I haven't the answer , but nobody , men

Your feedback is always most welcome! I have sealed the model with matt varnish yesterday evening which will be followed by even more weathering. Including more fading of the national insgnia! Pics will follow of course.

I've seen 70 year old and much older pistols stored in the original holster without rusting too. I have also seen a couple ruined with reproduction holsters. I ruined a really nice knife with a modern made scabbard and the humidity in my house rarely goes above 50%. It might be a good idea to at least check it now and then to be sure.

Hi all, Here's the shots of the completed Italian Sopwith ‘Baby’ (Serial No. So.5005), built under license by the SA Aeronautica Gio Ansaldo of Turin. The resin model is from 'Lukgraph. A fully detailed build log, in PDF format, will be available to view or download from gallery 2 on my site (just click on the PDF icon) from the site link below. The forum build log for this model can be found here: Mike

Special Hobby 1/32 Yak-3 set

Whilst on the subject of "red dope", here's another great picture that was posted on BM. Apparently even brand new aircraft could't escape a few patches here and there. I've added a few patches on KK-Q, I'll post an update soon.

I know this isn't a Navy or USMC Phantom but it's a great weathering example and also just a plane cool picture. Notice the actual shoe shaped marks on the top of the fuselage.

Hi. I just buy a pucara 1/32 3d printed. Here in Argentina. If you want... send to me your email address, and i tell you a whatsapp telephone number to comunicate. Saludos!!

I added some decals last night and this kit’s decals are the best I have ever used! So thin and strong, I’m impressed.