It looks very nice so far. If you don't mind, i'd like to point out a couple of things you need to be aware of as your build progresses. None of em have to do with your technique; rather just some quirks of the model you need to be prepared for.
When you glue the left and right fuselage halves together, pay attention to get a straight across joint at the front of the base of the windscreen. If the two haves don't join level with each other (when viewed from the top) you might have fit problems when mounting the windscreen. If you tape the parts together and test fit you'll see exactly what i mean.
When you assemble the outer wing panels, pay close attention to the instructions. There is a sleeve that is nested in the wing without glue, which then slides over the wing spar. If you glue this piece in by accident, the wing will slide onto the spar 3/4 of the way and then get stuck. People have reverted to hacking off the ends of the spar, or scalloping away from their surfaces to make the wing fit.
If you follow the instructions, when you slide on the wings, you will notice the upper surfaces have a gap between .005 and .010., running chord-wise, aft of the main spar.
This is consistent and appears on both wings. You will not have a similar gap on the wing undersides, where they mate to the center section.
when you glue the wing center section to the lower fuselage, you will be left with very fine gaps in front of the wing leading edge where it mates with the lower fuselage. Those are supposed to be there. The only gaps which need to be filled are in the rear lower fuselage along that angled joint.
Be careful mounting the firewall inside the front fuselage and make sure its seated properly against the ridge. When you glue on the horseshoe shaped "boot cowl" to the front of the fuselage, you will again see a gap where it joins. Do not fill this. Its hard to see when the part is unpainted, but there is very fine Dzus fastener detail which becomes visible after a coat of paint goes on.
The landing gear strut attachment is very strong and positive, but if you test fit the struts, once they go into their sockets, they do not want to come out. Make sure the mounting pins/flanges on the strut are free of paint- and don't forget to install those metal rods!! The weak point of the gear struts is just above the upper torque link on the strut. If you use enamel based weathering washes they will soften and weaken this part until fully dry. Take my advice: do not go there.
Its a lot easier to paint the model if you leave the middle and inboard flaps and horizontal stabilizers off until after painting. Makes it a lot easier to maneuver the airbrush and avoid getting fuzzy overspray in places where it shouldn't be.
When building the engine, The cowling nose ring in front and the cowling flap ring in back serve as the retainers for the upper and lower cowing segments. Most people who have built the model (myself included) have found the gaps around the front and back to be excessive. This mainly has to do with the engine getting "longer" as its built up, leading to build up of fit errors where each point comes together. Most people have been filling the gaps with Mr Surfacer, white glue, etc.
I hope this is helpful and allows you to continue your build without worry or unwelcome surprises.