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David Hansen

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About David Hansen

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/17/1966

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  • Location
    Peoples Democratic Republic of Portland, OR
  • Interests
    USN WWII-1980, 72nd, 48th, and 32nd Scales.

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  1. Beautiful job, Brett! Such a distinctive marking. It's really a pity that there isn't more background on the history of this plane. -d-
  2. Nice looking Cutlass! I am told it weighs a ton....
  3. Amen, Brutha! <looks in shame at unfinished RF-8 project on Shelf of Doom....>
  4. A splendid-looking model. I absolutely love working with Mr Color lacquers. Opens up a whole universe of Navy subject matter to me! -d-
  5. I mentioned in my last posting in CORKTIP 632 that i wanted to build a VF-211 Tomcat. So, i did. here it is..... Tamiya 48th scale kit, finished with Eduard Ejection Seats and Wheels and a MASTER brass AoA probe. Todd Enlund provided the "110" Modex and BuAer Number decals, as well as paint masks for the "NG" Tail Code and stylized "VF-211"s that go on the ventral fins. The Model was painted with Mr Color Super White on the Undersurfaces, Tailplanes, Rudders , Flaps, and Spoilers. The Gull Gray was Mr Color H315 Gloss Light Gull Gray. You cou
  6. Eric, i went off the radar for over a year. Any updates on this project??
  7. Hi Brett, A couple of observations. 1) I too have found precious little information about the "Reluctant Dragon" aside form one black and white photo taken of the artwork. The plane DID exist and in all likelihood it was ANA Sea Gray over Light Aircraft Gray. I wish i knew more about the plane. Others may know a lot more. 2) When i built my 2 Birdcages i used a block of Evergreen stock wedged into the intake openings, filled around it with CA and sanded it flush. 3) I used Barracuda wheels on both of my builds. You do need to be careful when inst
  8. Yes that's correct. These "sleeve" pieces are merely placed in position. If they are glued in, the clearances get too tight, and the spar will not slide all the way into the outer wing segments. I am amazed how many people building this model have cacked up this step. -d-
  9. Hey i don't mean this answer to sound flippant but, you could cut a circle-shaped mask from Tamiya tape, lay it down in the correct position, and then make pilot holes by eyeball, using a needle in a pin vise, and then open those out a little with a #80 drill bit, or something smaller if you can find it. Sand down with 100 grit wet, then take a look and see what you think. -d-
  10. I'm sure it is. It was actually an inside joke referencing some childish behaviour going on at another well-known plastic modeling website. -d-
  11. I did read it and was an excellent, well-researched and authoritative treatment on the subject. An original work for sure. Did you notice in poring over the photos, that the upper left national insignia varied in size a little bit, and tended to shift slightly in its location?
  12. Not just any B-26. A B-26K "Nimrod". I'll show myself out.
  13. Anything that adds visual interest to the generally bland wing uppersurfaces of a Corsair is a good thing. I've seen those ammo cans up close, and like everything having to do with the Corsair, it's over engineered. -d-
  14. Eric i will proceed with the Fisher wheel well. Especially since i have it painted, LOL. My biggest concern right now is the cross section at the belly. The forward belly was flat as a pancake, but the resin parts have sort of a tenuous mating surface and i feel that if i don't somehow clamp the lower surface to something perfectly flat while gluing, the end result will resemble a Revell Germany kit box.. Know what i mean?? -d-
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