Leaderboard

Trumpeter Su-27 1/32 finally finished... I tried to build heavy weathered Flanker based above polar circle with units called “ Guardians of the North”. I used Zacto intakes, nosecone, missiles and pylons. Aires Cockpit, wheel wells and exhausts. Armory resin wheels. Front windshield is a scratch build as kit part was really bad in shape. Colors - MRP paint including silver primer, transparent paints and metalizers. Tamiya panel liners and weathering Masters used.

MiG-23ML "4644" 1. SLP. Planá airport, České Budějovice, 1991 -first take-off of the aircraft was made on November 27, 1982 - fly to Czechoslovakia to ČB 22. 12. 1982 - total air raid 1136h and 41 minutes - The last flight took place on 26th October 2000 by Maj. Zdeněk Ouda Model: Trumpeter, Scale: 1/32 Author: Petr Pícha Photo: my frend Miloslav (thank you) Accessories: Aires-cockpit, nozzle, Wheels bay, avionics Eduard- photo etched part-exterior, Quickboost-cooling of aggregates Master-pitot tube, sparkers Linden Hill-Decals Customization: partially modified air intakes, APU-23, APU-60 -Helping keel - exhaust and suction channel of the turbostrarter - undercarriage legs -IR sensor -Other little things More Photo + building: https://www.leteckemuzeumliborezy.cz/mig-23/

I have had a thing for this machine for longer than i cam remember! I was planning to upgrade the old Revell kit when along came Dragon & AIMS. The AIMS set is an absolute dream to use. All the parts are designed to be "drop in" with no surgery is required, the parts needed to modify the 110 to a G4 just replace the kit parts. The Master turned brass aerials are included in the set along with a very extensive etched set. I didn't use the etched seat belts, instead I used a set from HGW. Initially the set came with a vac form rear canopy, but AIMS now do a clear resin part which is very nicely cast. I used Xtracolor RLM matched paints for the colour scheme. Thanks for looking, Angelo

Hi guys, I would like to present my other project, A-4N Ahit tail number 389. I used the Trumpeter A-4M kit with Wingman Models A-4N upgrade set, AMS corrected intake, wheels and refueling probe, Aires cockpit set with homemade upgrades to N version and Eduard exterior, flaps and slats set and Isradecal decals. I used MRP paints and Ammo of Mig washes and Oilbrushers as usual. As the source of information and pictures, I used Double Ugly Book A-4 in IAF service. Thank you for all comments...

1/32 Hasegawa kits HGW rivet set, wet transfers Barracuda wheels Eagle Cals #104 Aires wheel bay, engine, gun barrels Avionix cockpit All colours MRP

I pulled this kit from the SOD where it has been rotting for at least 4 years. It's the really nice Hasegawa kit with some Eduard etched parts, CMK resin bits (weapons bay), kit decals (except for the national markings for which I used home made masks from Tamiya tape), paints used were Gunze throughout: I hope you like what you see. Modelling isn't as easy as it used to be, hands have become shaky and eyesight is diminishing, but I still enjoy it. Lothar

Cheers everybody, it's bee a while since I finished my big Prowler - buying a new background for my photo booth was a good opportunity to finally take some photos of the finished model. For those who haven't followed the build, here's the link to the WIP thread: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/57040-how-to-destroy-an-expensive-kit-with-just-a-few-cuts-or-prowler33/ Photo quality is not ideal, I've been playing around with the photo settings but I am obviously not a good photographer... Anyway, comments, questions and critique are welcome as usual. "Beaker" waiting for the rest of the crew to board the aircraft.

Hi guys, I finally got around to taking some better pics of this model, which I completed earlier in the year. Chuck, big thanks for nudging me on the pics Thx for looking, Marcel

Howdy pardners Thank you so much for all your kind words - it really spurs me on to do my best I needed to move on under the fuselage to the scoop exhaust area - again this is a bunch of compound curves, but quite an interesting part of the airframe.. ..having chopped out the 'kit' part as it wasn;t right, I had replaced it with a card & filler structure, but this still needed rework when I got to it as the sidewalls needed to be strong to take burnishing down the metal skins to get the curves.. ..so the first thing was to create some stiff brass walls... ..this was then lined with pre-rivetted ali skins.. ..on the real deal, you can see the roof skin is ribbed to aid airflow and there is an opening for the strut that controls the door in this area.. ..I CA'd some brass wire to the roof to form the ribs over and started working an annealed sheet into the opening - this sheet was prepared by riveting the trailing edge and making the strut hole & rivets.. ..the tips of the scoop ribs were done by cutting the straight edges & pre-riveting, and then sticking these in place before forming the edges over the structure.. ..both sides done (before final finishing) - you can also see the ribs in the roof now.. ..the side panel has a hatch in it so this was added - here as the impact adhesive goes off before being folded back into position.. ..the other side has an indented oval (no idea what it is...) so this was made, then attatched to the skin and a hole made in the fuselage to accept the adaptation.. ..then it was all sanded to uniformity & any missing / lost rivets added.. ..I had also made the radiator before so this was test fitted.. ..have moved to the underwing panels behing the main gear -once these are down, the radiator airscoop can be added back and all the skinning under there completed TTFN Peter

1/32 Hasegawa kits HGW rivet set, wet transfers Barracuda wheels Techmod decals 32011 Aires wheel bay, engine, gun barrels Avionix cockpit All colours MRP

Hi everyone, I burned through this build because I found myself happily casting aside all of the historical chains and other things that bind us into extra hours of our hobby. Instead of taking super crisp hyper detail shots, I decided to put the bird to a color background in a series of pictures. I kept less than 1 in 3 pictures because I'm finding it very difficult to take acceptable photos lately. I hope you'll forgive my caprice and my lack of photographic talent and enjoy the pictures: Thank you for looking! Gaz

This is the 1/32 Roden O-2 kit with the following modifications and additions. Modified kit to a later version with larger pilots side window Added RB Productions seat belts Scratch built throttle quadrant Opened air vents on side of fuselage Thinned cowl flaps EZ line aerial wire Flattened tyres Strengthened and thinned the main undercarriage legs with brass sheet . Added scratchbuilt hoodlining Scribed many panel lines around main undercarriage legs and also oil filler access panels. Paint and Markings: Painted to represent aircraft flown by David Robson during the Vietnam war. AOA decals with custom masks made for the kangaroo/snoopy logos on the nose and tails.

This time the model quite difficult to paint. The model Su-27 Ukrainian Air Force in camouflage "Digi" set is Trumpeter 1:32 model well-known so it doesn't make sense to describe something about this set again. I can write one thing - we are waiting for a new model of this aircraft. Model made straight from the box, I painted this model with the home made mask so they are not a perfect reflection of the camo Su-27. I hope, however, that this model will please you, I like this camouflage very much ..

AND SOME MORE Thanks for looking!!

May 29/19 After 1 month, I'm finally back with an update. It may not look like much, but this next step took me about 20 hours of picky, detailed work! The engine on the F-5 has a zillion fine rivets, both on the rear nozzles and the titanium panels just forward. This is what it looks like on a Swiss real deal.... There are two types of rear nozzles supplied with the kit. One set has fine recessed rivets and comes in two halves, creating a big seam, while the kit also supplies some one piece resin replacements, which I used. As you can see, they are cast kind of rough, the raised rivets are huge and there's an unfortunate casting block right where you don't want it, on the lip of the nozzle on the right. They also seem to have been cast crooked, but I found that the shallow lip goes on the outside, while the thicker lip goes on the inside. Of course the instructions say nothing about it! Here I have sanded off the monster rivets on the left. The rear of the nozzles should have two thin circles of metal, separated by a gap. To improve this look, I sanded the outside thinner, while carefully sanding the gap within. It's not perfect, but from a few inches away, it looks not bad. The titanium panels just forward of the nozzles have recessed rivets, which look OK, but I can make them better. As mentioned above, I have used Archer resin raised rivets many times before, so I've learned a few things about this great product as follows: 1) The wider the decal film, the stronger the chain of rivets, but the higher the chance that it will show under paint, no matter how much decal softener you use. 2) The narrower the decal film, the more fragile the chain of rivets, which often break apart, but it will not show as easily under paint. 3) Rivets applied to curved surfaces should be done in short chains, for ease of handling. 4) Even single rivets can be applied successfully, so if you bump off one or two, repairs are easy. With the above in mind, I found some Archer rivets that were about the same spacing as the kit rivets, but just slightly larger, so they would still adhere without filling the recessed ones. I found that chains of only 5 worked best, because they were easy to apply, but also compensated for the slight differences in rivet spacing. These are found in #AR 88015, with thin strips of rivets cut as shown. After many, many hours of work, they look pretty good. Not perfect by any means, partly because the kit spacing isn't perfect either, but when these areas are painted the same color, the small imperfections should almost disappear. Engine nozzles and V-shaped antennae on the sides are only dry fitted with masking fluid "glue". Top And don't forget the bottom, because it is covered with raised rivets as well in roughly this pattern from references. I see that I've missed a 3 rivet pattern on the top and bottom of the antennae at the front, so consider that fixed. Next step is to spray these rivets and panels with clear acrylic X-22, to seal them, toughen them and help hide the decal film. After paint, all you should see is raised rivets and no film. On to the fiddly stuff, like landing gear, gear well doors, etc. Not my favorite part of any build, but very important nonetheless. Cheers, Chuck

I would like to present you the model that I prepared for the model exhibition. I chose a fairly difficult to build model, Su-25 Frogfoot A Trumpeter 1:32 Model I made straight from the box + Pitot from Master. I decided to make this model very heavily exploited. This plane is a work horse in the Russian Air Force, so this look is the norm. I add a lot of photos on a light and dark background, I hope they will please you.

My messy paint booth offers the perfect background for the requested photos - there are quite a few things to give you an idea of the size of the beast. I am currently running test prints of the sponsons on my Photon but I am not happy at all with the results. I may have to find another solution to print them...

Hi, i just finished this kit by MRC which i bought 20 years ago. had some major issues, as the decals have deteriorated and somehow the canopy had warped and a slight crack. other than than, it was an interesting learning experience building this kit without a conventional build guide. the mrc kit's instruction were more of an instruction with words rather than the normal pictorial guide. after some reading, there is a black and white photograph of how the part should look like after assembly. sure was interesting to me. I used the 2 bobs decals "whiskey in the mix" and Eduards BIG ED photo etch parts which were a real delight as the added quite a bit of detail to the kit. anyway, hope you enjoy the pics. sorry for the poor photography.

Hello, I've finally finished this one.... As in title - this is P-400 Airacobra "Airacutie" by Special Hobby , reboxed by Revell. Model isn't good, I'm sure that Kittyhawk one is much better but it was on sale so I bought it Basically it's OOB but there are seatbelts from Eduard and guns from brass pipes. Lady on wing is from Masterbox Pinup set. Whole model is painted with Mr.Hobby range and weathered with MIG,Tamiya and AMMO products. It has very shallow panel lines so wash didn't go well. I found a topic about Airacutie on this forum so I know that this particular P-400 had it's gear covers dismounted. After finishing I found that left cockpit door on real P-400 was permanently blocked. Another mistake is supposedly wrong cockpit color but I have no chance to correct it now. Anyway , hope you'll like it

hello again folks Hi Craig - I only do this when using annealed litho, or the soft ali I use for compound curves - a good example of this comes in a minute when doing the stabiliser fillets - it's a really good way of getting a virtually invisible seam rather than trying to butt two complex edges together.. So, fillets.... they are all curved as you woulkd expect, some in multiple directions - I was hoping the dorsal fin was the last panel as the very tip of it overlaps the fuselage skin I can't add until the cockpit is in.. but no, it's the first panel down - I guess as it's the least removed in service.. ..to get an idea of the area, this is for a P51C without a dorsal fin - I couldn't find too much on one with a fin and all the resto pics I have of Lopes Hope do not yet have all the fillets fitted so some assumptions were made from what I could see that they are pretty similar to a 'D' model.. ..you can see curvature & shapes and the fittings that fasten them too ..I did the dorsal fin but forgot to take pics, so this is the upper forward fillet first.. ..a sheet is bent & taped down to start the forming process.. ..a ball pein hammer is used to gently beat it into shape, and helped with balsa rubbing blocks and hard wood coffee stirrers.. ..here I am trying to get it to conform to the leading edge and the curved part that runs out onto the fuselage.. ..after shaping a number of scaled templates were used to derive the shapes - these are side views so I have to allow for the shape as it curves away from the eye.. ..and soon all the fillets were in place ready for final shaping & smoothing - at the leading edge you can see where the panels overlap - by sanding away the overlap a perfect seam results - in fact on the full size one this is a butt weld which is finished on the outside.. ..after final finishing and finessing some of the edges, the fasteners were added - this was a vet labourious process as each one must be punched, then marked with an awl for the fastner, then flattened, then added - there are about 60 each side.. ..once the other side has it's fasteners (I can only do so many at a time without getting bored..), I will move along the underside to the air scoop & exit under the fuselage.. TTFN Peter

I've been 'hunting' for some fitting figures for the 1920's theme for quite a while now. To me It's important to get the right figures for my builds, almost as important as the kit itself. I've decided to use some of Copper State Models very nice RFC pilot's for the flying crew. The standing pilot is OOB, but I've done some modifications to the sitting pilot. I think they correspond OK with these guy's... But the passengers, were a tough one. There's a lot of WW2 civilian figures around, in 1/35 scale. I probably would have been able to live with the size issue, but I imagine it would have been a massive undertaking, converting them into 1920's flapper's and the like. Anyway I finally caught a break when I came across these Preiser train figures: They are almost perfect for the Aeromarine build, perhaps a little on the 'old' side, but nothing that is easily 'fixed'. And they are 1/32 scale! The sprues in white styrene, just like the good old 'multipose' figures from Airfix. There's even a guy with a 'boater' hat. It's almost too good to be true, many of the figures are fitting the seats right away and they are even looking out the window! The standing 'conductor' is almost an exact match to the guy in the middle of this photo... Sorry about the excitement, but I just had to share this amazing find with you! Cheers: Kent

howdy folks ..just a little update as not had much time this week.. you can see here that where the skin panels on the fin & stabilisers end, it drops down to the bare fuselage shape - this is a problem for adding all the fillets around this area as when you burnish soft metal to get the complex shapes of the fillets, if it stayed like this, the fillets would distort where the existing skin ends and would form ridges... ..that means all that area needs to be filled so the surface onto which the fillets are added is perfectly flat - even a seam line can show through.. ..the first step is to get a tape template of the missing area and cut a sheet of plain annealed litho to go there.. here this bit covers that area and the side of the tail fillet... ..then it is stuck & burnished and all the seams filled so it is one contiguous surface.. ...I also skinned underneath by the tailwheel well.. ..the fillets will come next and be quite involved - I only have drawings for the early P51B version without a tail fillet.. ..you can see how they sit on top of the aircraft skin.. ..and I have some good photo's of the fin fillet to work from.. - just need to unpick the order they go down - this fillet will be added later as it goes over panels I won't add until the cockpit is in place and the rear canopy are is built up.. ..back soon with more.. TTFN Peter

Well it’s finally finished! Overall a really enjoyable build. A great kit with some fit issues but excellent detail and brilliant value for money. I had to work quite hard on the scratch building and re scribing some panel details as I’m not a natural builder. Aftermarket was obviously the engine and also brass machine gun barrels. I should probably have used resin wheels. And I think Andy (monthebiff) mentioned seat belts and I regret not putting them in now but at the time I was pushing the build on and didn’t have any to hand and didn’t want to wait. What next? Well the airfix hellcat is only a week away! cheers Matt

Trumpeter P-51B/C with many additions and modifications. Kit is unfortunately really bad. I hope that Zoukei Mura will release theirs soon. Model presents plane of Eugeniusz Horbaczewski, whos score is 16 and 0.5.

Quick follow up because I just sprayed X-22 on everything to smooth things out. BEFORE: AFTER: I'll let this dry for a few days, sand out the tiny flaws, then give it another coat to create a nice smooth finish for bare metal painting. Cheers, Chuck

I was asked to repost pics of my Revell Has. Spitfire...could not find the original pictures,so we re shot some. They're not great.. but kinda in the middle of things at the moment.. This is the older kit..won't go into the differences comparing it to the new one..no point as this kit is getting hard to find. .Traded my last one to Martin.. hope he posts some WIP here. Back to fishing..Cheers for now...Bill.

Hi All, After seemingly endless masking I’m almost done with the painting bar a little touching up. I used mr color paints and they were really great and performed faultlessly. Gloss coat next and then a few decals before weathering. cheers Matt

first info seen on https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=105045&start=2475 based on their facebook, injection molded kit https://www.facebook.com/pg/ibgmodels/posts/?ref=page_internal first Polish made injection plastic model kit in 1/32 scale - first ever injection model of the legendary P.11c plane in this scale - researched and design based on repair documentation - full interior - full riveting - realistic corrugated sheet structure - realistic Merkury VS2 engine jan

Hi folks Back with a little more... I tried skinning the bottom of the airscoop in one piece, pre-rivetted, but I couldn;t get a good fit.. you can see the gap between the bottom and adjacent panel here.. ..so I decided to try it in two halves, tring to lose the join line down the middle - here the first half starts to get persuaded into shape.. ..and both halves with the skin overlap in the middle.. ..after sanding the join out, the rear of the panel is cut to shape and the waste peeled off.. ..and with some rivet details added.. ..moving backwards, two panels have been added, including one around the oil cooler outlet and a further one is waiting to be stuck down - the intention is to get all the base metalwork down and then sand, shape & refine before cutting out panels for doors etc and riveting in situ.. ..looking to lose another couple of seams, an infill panel between two outboard ones is ready to be stuck down.. ..and now this area is ready to move on to the detail stage.. until next time TTFN Peter

Hi all, I thought you might like to see my 18th 1:32 scale build - the German Fokker D.VII fighter. The major airframe components are 3D printed from the ‘Shapeways’ web site. The airframe structural components were designed by ‘Aviattic’ and engine parts by ‘Bob Monroe’. Other components for the model were ‘donated’ from the ‘Wingnut Wing’ kit of the Fokker D.VII (OAW built) (Kit No: 32030). This model, with associated figures, will eventually be part of a dual Fokker D.VII display. I know I don't often reply to your generous comments, but rest assured they are very much appreciated, Mike The basic list of modifications and additions to the model are as follows: ‘Taurus Models’ engine intake manifold lock rings (3211), ‘Taurus Models’ engine fuel priming cups (3219), ‘Taurus Models’ engine complete timing gear - conical valve springs (3209), ‘Eduard’ Swordfish hinge and panel set (32204), ‘RB Productions’ British wire terminals (RB-P32013). Spark plugs. Cylinder fuel primers. Valve springs. Ignition lead support tubes. Gun synchronization mechanism. Ignition leads. Oil reservoir sight glass. Hydraulic pipes. Intake manifold lock rings. Sump oil tube. ‘Flugzeugwerke’ (Bob Monroe) (printed by ‘Shapeways’) Mercedes D.III Oil Pump, Mercedes D.IIIa Cylinders (hollow), Mercedes D.IIIa Crankcase and engine block, German Aircraft Magnetos, Mercedes Cylinder clamps, ‘Aviattic’ (printed by ‘Shapeways’) Rear fuselage frame. Tail plane. Rudder. Elevator. Ailerons. Fin. Upper wing (3 sections) (scratch bracing tapes, leading edge ‘saw tooth’ fairings). Lower wing (two sections) (scratch bracing tapes, leading edge ‘saw tooth’ fairings). Tail skid (with scratch made suspension cables and springs). Wings leading edge ‘stacking pads’. Rear fuselage decking panel. Cockpit padded surround. ‘Aviattic’ Fokker seat. Undercarriage assembly – scratch built including brass struts. Fuel, oil and coolant pipes, Engine controls – throttle, magneto, alternator, spark advance, hand throttle. ‘REXx exhaust. ‘Proper Plane’ Heine propeller (wood). ‘GasPatch’ Spandau machine guns. Gun installations. Cockpit control cables – rudder, ailerons and elevator. Cockpit cross bracing lines. Gun firing cables. Gun synchronization mechanism. Engine controls. Instrument leads/cables. Fuel pressure pump pipe. Seat harness. Rigging points. External flight control lines. ‘Steve Robson’ handmade wheels and tyres. Photo-etch radiator. Radiator shutter and control cable/pulley. All internal cross bracing cables. Aileron control cables with associated pulleys. As usual I've created a downloadable build log in Adobe PDF format, for those who might want to refer to it for reference or build details. It contains full step by step descriptions of the model build, its modifications/changes and is also supported with illustrations and photographs. If viewed in Adobe Reader, each build log has book marked chapters/headings for easier navigation through the log. My model website has the gallery page, so to view any model, go to the gallery and select it. If it has a PDF build log, it will be available to download using the 'PDF' icon on that models photo's page. For any photograph, just click the photo to enlarge or reduce the viewing size. http://igavh2.xara.hosting

I also printed the instrument panel. I plan to use instrument dial decals, which Peter (Airscale) kindly sent me:

Hasegawa Ki-61 1/32 Alley Cats conversion cockpit photoetche Brengun exhaust Quickbost colors Gunze C

Coming sometime in the future to a magazine (hence only one photo - sorry, no more or I'll be in trouble with the Editor), here's my rendition of the Italeri two-seat Starfighter. The subject was an aircraft of 31 (Tiger) Sqn, Belgian AF, 1983. The tip tanks were used for the 1983 NATO Tiger meet, just before Belgium finally retired the F-104. Decals by DACO, intake covers & chocks by Video Aviation, pitot by Master, and RBF tags by HGW. Thanks for looking.

Hi All, have applied a dark brown panel line wash and have shaded the paint with oils to give it some depth and then a final flat coat. Almost ready for final assembly! cheers Matt

An update on the Aeromarine build... Have been working on the piping for the fuel tanks. Some free styling was needed to squeeze everything beneath the cockpit construction, well most of it won't be visible anyways... Also been spending some time, actually a lot of time, finding appropriate fonts for the decals/texting for the Aeromarine. What I thought would be easy, turned out to be a bit of a nuisance. I've literally been trawling through font pages to find text's similar to the ones on the old Aeromarine photos... I had to give up on the 'KEY WEST - HAVANA' text and cleaned it up in photoshop instead. The decals have been scaling to get a proper fit. Rear fuslage. Front fuselage. Just need to seal off the decals with future... Thanks for looking in: Kent

http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http:// http://

I built this one a while back and have just had the opportunity to attend Eric G's lair where Eric and I spent a day photographing models (well Eric did while I watched!!). The kit is the Tamiya E which had the usual mods, removal of raised panels, re-scribing etc. I used Aires seats, Eduard interior etch, slime lights, engine internals, Sparrow missiles and wheels, GT cans (not as detailed as Aires or Eduard but the only available that are the correct diameter), Sierra Hotel seamless intakes, Zacto sidewinders, resin cluster bombs (can't remember who by) and Master pitot and AOA probes. The kit was painted freehand with MRP paints which are excellent. I spent around 12 months to complete her enough of my drivel, lets let the pictures do the talking! ENJOY!

June 18/19 Finally, I’m really painting. A first coat of paint reveals flaws and with gloss black, they are amplified at least 3 times over a flat finish. I always start painting on the bottom, just in case I have airbrush or paint issues, but in this case, Tamiya Gloss Black lacquer (TS-14) sprayed beautifully. This paint was decanted from the rattle can then thinned with about 40% of Tamiya lacquer thinner. I expected a few flaws underneath, because this is where the kit parts do not fit very well, but I did not expect to still see so many seam lines and other flaws. The rear, however, came out looking great. With that shiny coat of X-22 over the Archer rivets, it almost looks like metal already with the smooth reflection. Back to the drawing board….. And another coat of paint. Much better now. A close up to show that those seams lines are now filled and other flaws repaired. There are so many surfaces that from this angle, it almost looks wrinkled. In the background, I’ve been busy cleaning up, assembling and painting other parts that will be attached later for ease of handling. The landing gear, doors and hardware are ready for final assembly. And here’s my first shot at painting the exhausts, which have gone from this: To this, using Alclad Stainless Steel. For the inside, I used Alclad Steel, followed by a dusting of rust to replicate reference pics. Although I’m getting near the end of this build, I still have a lot to do. Missiles, the main fuel tank and dozens of tiny bits still need to be attended to. I’m a bit nervous about decaling, because I normally shoot a good sealing coat of X-22 over the decals to seal them in and reduce decal film edges. On this nice gloss black finish, X-22 might make the finish look too artificial. I guess time will tell! Cheers, Chuck

It seems like the longest time since I've been able to work on a model, and this is my attempt to claw my way back to bench and at least try to get something built. Having lost my mojo due to the extended break, none of my started projects have much appeal to me at the moment, and having promised Espen I'd build this one after reviewing it, I decided it would be a great project to get back in to the swing of things. So, what's the project, then? I'll be using Hasegawa's Bf 109G-6 kit, and combining it with the Attitude Aviation As Hispano HA-1112-M1L (Buchcon) conversion, to build "Red 3" from the movie Battle of Britain: For more details about the conversion set, check out my review from back in January this year: https://www.largescaleplanes.com/reviews/review.php?rid=2177 I haven't cut any plastic yet, but am hoping do so tomorrow. Before we start I want to thank both Kent Strickland and William Lawlor for their efforts in supplying me with a Hasegawa Bf 109G-6 kit, and also Espen Tjetland of Attitude Aviation As for the conversion set. Hopefully some actual modelling in the next update! Kev

Right - off to grab a small glass of vino - then back to looking at B-24 wings... Iain

This time model from WW II times, I generally avoid model aircraft with a propeller. I definitely prefer modern aviation. However, from time to time I make a model for someone to order. I present to you such a model F4U-1A Corsair model from the Tamiya skal scale 1:32 This is one of the best models I've built, all the elements fit together without a problem. Model made straight from the box with one addition from yahoo. I invite you to watch, I hope that the model looks good.

Tim aka Wunwinglow was so kind to print the sponsons on his Form2 for me - thank you very much, Tim! I have spent the last evening preparing the first sponson - the nonskid on the walkways was applied using Tamiya putty, rivets lost during sanding were replaced with Archer ones. The walkways are very rough on MH-53Es, hence the use of Tamiya Putty instead of Mr Surfacer. The center fuselage windows were closed and puttied as well.

Afternoon folks Here's Airfix's classic Harrier GR3 from the venerable 1/24th scale kit, warts and all. Built as it comes, but with some home-made additions to the cockpit and seat. The kit decals and Xtracolour paints were used throughout. For its age, it's a really nice kit. The cockpit is very basic and the landing gear and bays are lacking in details, but with some good old-fashioned scratch-building you can make a decent representation of the Harrier. Happy modelling! Tom

Bonjour à tous , je vous propose mon interprétation de ce très joli chasseur Japonais de l'école de chasse d'AkEno. Kit Hasegawa 08880 Eduard extèrieur 32238 Figurine CMK Rivetage et traitement de la carlingue pour un effet de stress . Peinture Vallejo. Merci de m'avoir regardé A bientôt

Hello again! I’ve been busy printing and prepping parts. The skeleton and first layers of detail are ready for final fitting and assembly. Everything received a coat of black epoxy primer, for two reasons to seal the FDM printed parts and fill machine marks and layer lines on the CNC cut, and resin printed parts. I mixed up some chromate color with Tamiya yellow and green and sprayed a base color layer. A few days later I received some MRP paints...I've been looking a paint solution since the demise of Floquil. Great paint, and I super happy with the results. Anyway, I sprayed a thin layer of MRP chromate over the Tamiya color and I was pleased with the mottled effect and overall fidelity of the base color. Details were painted in their appropriate colors, then the parts were sealed with Future. A layer of lamp black and burnt umber oils, thinned with Japan dyer was applied, then promptly wiped away. This dirtied up the surfaces and created a good back ground for the details to come. Assembly is underway, with some printing successes I'm looking forward to share in the next installment White parts CNC cut acrylic and styrene, green/blue parts are resin printed, and the dark gray part in the middle was CNC cut, top and bottom halves the make up the cockpit floor and nose gear well overhead. The nose gear well half had a printed detail appliqué added. Primed parts Base Tamiya color Weathered parts Detail composites This stuff is coming up. These are the console panels that were cut from 0.040” styrene on the CNC mill. Thanks for tuning in! Timmy!

Sooo, here we are again Here is the trolley (or however this is called). It is higly speculative, as it's based just on a few crude black/white photos. I was inspired by this awsome model: http://archiwum.plastikowe.pl/relacje/cant-z506b-airone-72-supermodel I'm afraid the weird wheels are a bit too big, so they probably will be redone. I made new floats with the Anycubic Photon printer. I could print some surface details. The forward parts are filled with some lead bullets to prevent the notorious tail sitting. So, here we are at the moment Cheers Alex

Some progress

Here is 1/32 Hasegawa Messerschmitt Bf-109 G10 finished with the markings of “White 43” W.Nr.130369 from 1./NJG 11 İN Fassberg-Germany during April-May 1945. Cockpit modified by MDC cockpit set. Other modifications are: Quickboost exhaust Master Details Horizontal Tail Surfaces set. Barracudacast wheels Barracudacast Propeller set AIMS Decal set “Monotone Me’s” Paints : Gunze Sangyo acrylics.

I painted the ejection seat. I used a very fine tipped Copic multiliner marker pen to draw in the stitching on the belts and the black lines in the ejection handles. Next up was the rocket rails. I scratchbuilt one good one from plastic card and rod. Fitted with a rocket for sizing. I have used the Aires RP-3 rockets with concrete warhead practice rounds. i then made a copy of the stubs in resin Which I multiplied by 6 pairs. I used plastic rod for the rail part. Test fit. My good mate Les was kind enough to make me up some 803 sqn crests for either side of the tail to match the ones on the real 109 I used the excellent Australian made gloss clear produced by SMS to clear coat the model before applying the stencil data. Highly recommend this stuff. Getting closer to the finish line.

All parts dryfitted :