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1/32 Cyber Hobby HGW rivets, wet transfers, seat belts Yahu instrument panel All colours MRP

Even though we've all seen this plane done dozens of times, it's always been one of my favorites, so here's mine all finished up. Details: Hasegawa ST19 kit Eagle Editions "Yellow 10" decals for specific markings and swastikas HGW wet transfers for national insignia and most stencils HGW seatbelts HGW wood decals for flaps Aires wheel bays and cockpit Airscale instruments and placards (thanks, Peter!) Grey Matter Figures (Rutman) D-13 conversion set S.O.W. main landing gear legs (thanks Damian!!) Eduard exterior PE bits and canopy masks Barracuda wheels Moskit exhausts (thanks WilliamJ!) Wire antennae, brake lines, brass tube gun barrels Homebrew washes and chalk weathering Thanks for looking! Tim

Thanks Les but I really don't know any specifics about the prop construction other than they were primarily wood. I know the wood props on the D-9 had metal plated leading edges so it quite possible that the VS9's were constructed the same way but I chose not to replicate this. I finally got the radiator flaps and cowling into place. It took some force and fidgeting to get it to seat right. The clear parts have also been glued into place. With all of the forward fuselage components in place, I wanted to check to make sure the HD prop looks ok when mounted. The canopy frames were painted in RLM 66 Dark Grey from the outside. The cowling has been primed with Mr Surfacer 1200. The painting process can now begin!

I've decided to group the prop into some sub-assemblies. The prop blades have been glued into the individual blade mounts. The cannon mounting plate has been glued onto the prop hub, trapping the brass prop axle within. I've scanned the Eagle Cal Ta152H decal sheet and have prepared four spiral masks. The first two were used just to work out how the mask best fit onto the unpainted spinner. When I thought I had that figured out, I painted the spinner white and applied the mask. It didn't go on as easily as I expected until I figured out to take advantage of the flex of the Oramask 810 material to pull the mask into the correct position. The black (Tamiya Black thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner) gave me a funky reaction that I had not seen before. The paint seemed to pool on the areas where the mask had been... some unseen leftover adhesive? So that effort was scrubbed off using iso alcohol. The second time around worked very nicely and I got a clean spiral right off the bat. In the meantime, the prop blades were being painted. I used a sandy brown as a base coat since the Ta152H had a wooden prop. Hairspray was used to do a little bit of chipping on the blades. The painted blades were given a couple of layers of salt fading to roughen them up a little. I still need to weather the spinner but prop painting is essentially finished. g

Thought I'd dive in head first with what is probably my first LSP post! I've recently finished my Trumpeter 1/32 Harrier GR7 of IV(AC) Sqn RAF Laarbruch, Germany in 1994 (I served on this Sqn and worked on this aircraft) The kit is woefully inaccurate but with the help of serious amounts of resin extras (from a fellow modeller on BM) I hope I've been able to create a quite reasonable model of the real thing. Paints are all Tamiya XF-81 Dark green 2 RAF for the top sides and XF-71 Cockpit Green for the undersides. Resin or Brass: Nose section, BOL rails, BL755 Cluster Bombs, CBU87B/B Cluster Bombs, 48KvA GPU, Oxygen Trolly, Tow bar, CBLS100 Practice Bomb carriers, Flare pack, Wheels, Eduard Interior & Exterior sets, new fuel tank fronts (to correct shape), AIM9L Acquisition rounds. Decals are kit, spares box, custom printed, or the large set by Airframe. All panel lines were rescribed (some maybe a little heavily) and the pylons corrected in shape and fit, gun-pods were resized, re-scribed and detailed. Canopy MDC is also an add on (can't remember who) It's literally hundreds of hours of work over two years as I had a massive hiatus from modelling of 10+ years... Anyway, on to a few pics: Hope you enjoy Steve

Here's a little something I cracked the whip on last week. Basically wheels up OOB with the exception of a new scratch-built intake lip to make it curvier and a resin cockpit set. I loaded up the fuselage with magnets and will fashion a proper display stand at a later date.

hi everyone latest work on my PB4Y-1

This time one of the most beautiful jets in the world. F-4J Phantom II VF-151 Tamiya 1:32 I made this model as always straight from the box, taking this model to the workshop you will not have any problems. Everything here fits together perfectly.

Hi happy modellers When I saw these pictures few years ago of This Me 262, I decded to build one... And Then last week I found another picture??? ... You can read her history here : https://falkeeins.blogspot.com/2018/06/me-262-kgj54.html Well the Trumpeter kit is a good one without problem,. I used Gunze and Tamiya acrylic RLM 76 (H417), RLM 81 (h421), RLM82 (XF 26), RLM 76B (H417 and H74) To be continued...

Good day, colleagues! Allow me to present my new finished model - Arado 234 blitz bomber. I added some wires in the cockpit and 1000/500kg bombs from MDC. Also i've used tonnes of CA glue and putty... Model finished by Gunze paints (rlm 76, rlm 82), AK real color (rlm 81 (3 variant)), and Tamiya. AA code painted with masks. Thank you! Regards, Sergey Budyansky.

Have been trying to stay busy while not at work, my B-17D conversion has hit the wall, waiting for things to come in the mail, can't do any 3D drawing for printing until I go back to work...So I went into the storage room and brought out the Hobbyboss monster B-24... I've been putting off dealing with the wing issues, the root being the wrong cross section and the incident being off as well, also the thickness of the wing out to the tips and the wing tips needing to be more horizontal. I think I finally got it to a good place, a ton of cutting ,sanding, gluing , cursing and forced twisting.... The wings look nice and thin now out towards the tips and the roots look more like a Davis airfoil now. The wing tip is thinned way down, doesn't really show here, but the tip is about half the original thickness of the kit wing now, and if you look at the rest of the wing in the background you can see how much more horizontal the tip is in relation to the root. The root of the wing has been increased in thickness about .125" on the top , about 2/3rds the way towards the leading edge, I cut all the molded in wing ribs, on the top and bottom wing halves and left only the upper wing's main spar and some of the wheel well bay locating ribs, I made a new profile styrene "root rib" and glued it into the top half of the wing after some persuading "cold" forming of the upper wing halves without the ribs in them anymore, I also re-profiled the end walls for the landing gear bays to match the re configured arc of the upper wing . I had to also remove material from the bottom/front of the main kit spar in order to change the angle of the wing, bringing the center of the leading edge up about .125" from where the kit wing was located. The pencil lines on the fuselage in the following photos are where the kit wing was suppose to locate compared to the relocated and reshaped wing. Also I need to make fillets for the tops of the wings to take up the gap created by changing the tilt/incidence of the wing.

Good day, friends! Congratulations to all on Victory Day. Unity is our strength! Model from Special hobby. I used: PE from Eduard, Begemot decals, A-resin and Yahu models dashboard. Pains are from Gunze, Akan and Hataka. Regards, Sergey Budyansky

almost done. I need still to add some pigments and exhaust soot I have used neutral grey (MIG) and different tan shades (AMMO) for panle line wash finish with mixture of matt and semi matt MRP varnish wheels exhausts thanks for looking jan

So there we were, Lins (my wife) and myself, doing a bit of gardening when along comes Mama Duck, calling loudly and receiving back many cheeps! Trouble was, her ducklings were the other side of our deer and rabbit-proof fencing, in amongst stinging nettles, brambles and much other dense undergrowth. I climbed over the fencing and set about re-uniting Mama and babies, handing each one carefully to Lins. Mama sensibly took them straight onto the pond.....duck to water comes to mind. Long story short: 3 hours later we had found 8 and Mama gradually stopped calling, but we thought one was still missing. Despite all our best endeavours we never found it. Later in the afternoon the duck parade marched off to the lakes next door. Entertaining, worrying, rather sad but delightful to see all the babies. Enjoy! Not easy for a day old duckling to get through.....nor for a 72 year old to find them! Warm and drowsy!

A lot of time passed since my last post here, I promise I'll try to be more active. Since my MiG-23, I finished 4 birds, I'll present one of them here, next will post in a few days. My Nighthawk was made almost Out of the box, I've changed only wheels for Eduard ones. Base was inspired by last flight box by Academy. Biggest problem was with exhaust painting, I did some research, but it is so hard to find a decent photos, so it is my vision of exhaust. Watch and comment - and please, be gentle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The Dauntless has always been one of my favorite Naval aircraft and I’ve built a couple of the old Monogram 1/48 scale kits, so I picked up one of the Trumpeter SBD-3 kits some time ago and finally decided to give it a go. This is really a nice kit! A huge improvement over their Wildcat which taught me a very important lesson - follow the instructions! COCKPIT Lots going on here, more like a cockpit with an airplane around it. I’m trying to keep this build simple with minimum aftermarket parts which I’ve limited to Eduard PE which, although labeled for the -5, seems to work without any obvious issues on the -3. Besides I’m only picking and choosing a few items including the printed parts and “easy” other PE pieces. The only other aftermarket is Master Details .30 and .50 cal gun barrels. My search for a paint that doesn’t hate me brought me to Mr. Color lacquers. I had originally started using MRP but at that time there was only one source in the US and backorders were taking a month to be filled. Since I’m fortunate to have a relationship with Stevens International I can get Mr. Color at wholesale, but I have to buy box lots of 6 jars at a time. Regardless, now I actually enjoy painting again. PAINTING CAVEAT: I build for fun and to pass the time and therefore I’m not color-match-crazy. If it says RLM 02 (or whatever) on the bottle I’m good. That’s not to criticize builders who anguish over the correct colors, it’s just not on my priority list. Individual parts first painted with AK Xtreme Metal Aluminum, then hairspray, then black pre-shading followed with varying densities of Interior Green. Gloss coat, oil wash feathered with a brush and finished off with a custom mix of 50/50 Mr. Color satin and flat. Chipping is very easy using lacquers. I use Dove Extra Hold which comes in a pump spray bottle, applied straight with airbrush. One wet coat is all that’s needed. In hindsight, the chipping could be more extensive but it is what it is. Moving along to the Instrument Panel. Using the Eduard printed PE parts I sandwiched a piece of clear acetate that I cut out with my Cameo 2 between the instruments and the panel front to add clear lenses. Extreme closeup of the acetate parts. Flat acetate lenses actually look like lenses. Ignore the glare. For some reason the Eduard set omits whatever instrument is supposed to be in the top center so I decided to get clever and add one that fits from a sheet of Waldon US fighter instruments. Of course, of all the options on the sheet I blithely chose the worse possibly one, a duplicate. Undeterred by Blunder #1 I pressed on to the seat harness. The kit comes with PE belts, something I’m loathe to deal with. If anyone makes fabric belts for this model I sure couldn’t find any so I decided to attempt to make my own out of paper. I use Adobe Illustrator for just about everything so I scanned the kit PE fret for size, imported the scan into AI, traced over it and fiddled around with a color that, to my eye, looks like khaki. I had to make the ends separate pieces because the belt folds around the hardware. These were glued in place with a tiny dot of super glue. Photo of the finished paper belts printed on a color laser printer. Inkjet printers won’t do because the inks are water soluble. There two sets here, one for the pilot and one for the rear seat. Using the kit PE hardware (lacking detail as it is) I assembled the belts, brushed on some water and they drooped down pretty convincingly. Better look at the belts and IP. Because the bulkheads need to line up with the locating points on the inside of the fuselage I dry fitted the cockpit sub-assembly. In the process I discovered that the fuselage halves had a nasty gap at the top and I had to remove a serious amount of material from this part to close the gap. Material removed from this part to get fuselage halves to touch. Stay tuned for the next exciting episode where I assemble the engine and try to avoid Blunder #2. Comments and critique welcome.

Here is my 1/32 Kittyhawk OV-10A that I completed late last year. This model was built to represent the aircraft that Squadron Leader Graham Neil and Flight Lieutenant Ken Semmler flew during the Vietnam war on the 6 JUNE 1970. Both of these men were pilots in the Royal Australian Air Force and were part of the group of 36 that served as FACs under the USAF during the conflict. Graham was awarded a Distinguished Flying Cross for his conduct as a Forward Air Controller during this mission. I haven't had the chance to show Graham the completed model yet due to Covid19, but I was able to show him the partially completed model during its construction. The model. Additions: Airscale instrument decals. Master Pitot tube AoA decals Reskit wheels AMS ejection seats Eduard exterior photo etch Aerobonus Helmet with hand painted Roo. Archer raised rivet detail added to forward fuselage Modifications/Scratch built items: Raised cowl fasteners replaced with engraved ones. 5 x fuel caps scratch built. Scribed the missing fuel panel on the centre of the top wing. Scratch built the missing lower left access step. Scratch built bomb beam inside centre pylon. Added small bolts to front of spinners. Scratch built cockpit access ladder. Scratch built forward air vent in front of the windscreen. Scratch built the air vent under observers canopy and tops of both crew canopies. Added lots of wiring inside the cockpit. Scratch built the throttle and pitch levers. Scratch built canopy actuator and stay mechanisms. Scratch built the canopy window locking mechanisms x 4. Scratchbuilt bulkhead and armour plate behind pilots seat. Added brake lines. Faired in pitot tube to the nose cone. Various antenna and aerial wire. Scratch built stall warning tab outer right wing. A few other things I have forgotten. The actual aircraft after the mission mentioned above:

thanks for looking jan

Hello All, Just finished the new ICM Gladiator. I liked it very much. Simple build (like an Airfix 1/72 starter kit really), but none the worse for that. Just good fun. Thanks, Guy

Hey all- started with the cockpit stuff. first I shot some primer yellow (Tamiya XF-4 yellow green) on those spots I was going to chip. When dry, this was shot with a barrier coat of flat lacquer. (You can skip the lacquer if your primer color is enamel) once dry, shoot it with aerosol hair spray right out of the can. Let that dry. A hairdryer will do the trick in a minute or two. When the hairspray is dry, airbrush Tamiya Rubber black over that. Clean your airbrush. By the time you have your airbrush put away, you can start on the next step. grab a short bristled brush and some water. Wet the area you want to chip. Let it sit for a minute, then start working the chipping with your brush. Clean the black off of your brush periodically as you go- when all that dries, dry brush with MM Gunship Grey enamel. The instrument panel went a little differently. First, I shot it with Tamiya Rubber black. When dry, I dry brushed the whole affair with MM Gunship Grey. To get the contrast I wanted between the raised instruments and flat panel, dry brushing wasn’t enough.. there needs to be two distinct blacks..a noticeable but subtle difference between the instrument bezels and flat panel. To achieve this, I used an old-school technique- I carefully applied a jet black wash with a long bristled thin brush..carefully flowing the wash in between the raised instruments. This was built up slowly in thin layers. You need to put this on thin to get it to flow. Capillary action is your friend. from here I can start the detail painting, etc- cheers Pete

As much as I try to buy local - that is getting harder and harder and some things, like MRP paint, is impossible to find locally. Same with canopy masks. On to Spruebrothers. I placed an order a couple of weeks ago and when the shipment arrived the tube of putty I ordered had a broken top - it was packed too tightly in the box. Not the end of the world, but sent an email to their customer service, to the help address, to let them know of the problem. (Nothing would fix the top either - not CA, Gatorglue, nothing I had). Didn't hear from them immediately - to be expected for sure in these times. I sent a quick follow-up email a week later (last Friday) just to see if they received my email, and to see if they could add a few more items to the shipment - one package, save on postage. 9pm Friday night my cell phone rings, from KC. No clue who is calling me from KC so let it go to VM. Its Charlene from Spruebrothers. Giving me her cell phone number. I call her back but it goes to VM. Before I can leave a message, she's calling me again. She is incredibly apologetic about the non-response saying they are just swamped (a good thing I think for business!) and that she was going to come in on the weekend, and would ship out my order and I'd have everything on Wednesday. No problem adding the other bits I wanted to add, and she checked while I was on the phone to make sure they were in stock. I fully expected the message to be something along the lines of ' please be patient as we deal with staffing issues and an increase in volume due to COVID-19'. Instead, had a very nice chat with a wonderful lady late on a Friday night. I really appreciated the personal touch from Spruebrothers.

Hi guys Firstly I want to say that I hope everyone is staying safe out there whilst living in these difficult times. I have been away for a while as I have been building the smaller stuff!....but I'm back with the big boys now!! Well it is time to get down and finally attempt to finish this Mammoth B17G project. Some of you may know that I started this 7 years ago with a few breaks in between sections to build other stuff. As a recap : I was originally going to just scratch build the nose section but kind of got hood winked in carrying on down the length of the fuselage! .....so I then built the Bomb bay....followed by the radio room and ball turret section and now it is time to finish this off with the tail section. Just to let you all know that I will not be building the wings and the 4 engines that go with it! I got together some old post photos from the start of this project and thought I would show you of how I got to this point today! This first photo shows the completed fuselage up to the ball turret position..... Here is a shot of the cockpit....... ...and the bomb bay looking from the radio room through to the cockpit.... Here is the radio operators table in the radio room..... ...and finally the ball turret in place on the hanging harness..... So my aim has always been through out this project to display as much of the internal detail as possible as I have always been fascinated with the Flying Fortress!.....so to that end I have tried to construct the whole fuselage with the top removed. This over the years has given me many headaches and will continue to I'm sure ... because I didn't want to take away the shape of the B17!... For example my next problem will be how to display the detail with that ruddy great dorsal Fin attached?......well I have an idea which I will show you as we get on with the build. The other problem I have is how to ship it back to the UK from here?....I have made a bespoke box out of MDF but I am getting ahead of my self!....lets put that to one side at the moment and get this last section underway! So here we go then..the first of many photos and posts that I will have to make!! I am going to make the fuselage out of balsa wood as I did with the the front sections....so after digging out the scale plans that I scaled up to 1:20 I cut out all the formers I would need. The bottom half was built up first ...then the top half .....here they are temporarily joined. A few years ago I started strengthening the fuselage by filling in between the stringers with scrap pieces of Balsa wood. All you have to do then is sand down carefully to the formers and stringers to get the ...hopefully.... correct shape. Here is the bottom half..... Here is the top half just placed in position..... So here the scrap balsa was filled in the gaps and sanded. You can see that I have left an area open at the top so you will be able to see down into the detail...... Now I turned my attention to the dorsal fin which runs along the top of the fuselage which eventually turns into the tail fin.At this stage I am only building so far back and will complete it by somehow attaching the tail fin at a later stage...there is method in my madness as you will see later! Once I had filled the gaps with balsa ,I glued the dorsal fin on top of the fuselage and as you can see there is still enough open space to eventually look at all the detail. I thought I would clamp the front section onto this to see what it might look like......JEEZ!.....It's about 3 feet 5 inches long!! Well that's as far as I have got with this so far! I do hope some of you will come along with me for the ride on this final stage of this project...would appreciate the support! Until the next post.....thanks for looking in and stay safe guys! Fozzy

Work continues on the Corsair all be it at a snail's pace. I've had to do so many "do overs" I stopped counting. It seems that I've lost a certain edge after having left the bench alone for over a year. Pure and simple persistence has been the order of the day some days. It's definitely not the kit. I continue to marvel at what Tamiya has given us with this model. The fuselage has been completed with all rivet detail restored where sanding was required to eliminate any seams. RB Productions rivet wheel was very instrumental in accomplishing that. Thank-you Radu! Once the fuselage assembly was done I returned to the engine. I completed the Vector cowl flaps, painted them, and added the control cable for the flap actuators. I mixed a light grey color to paint the inside of the flaps and discovered that I'd mixed a color that perfectly matched Tamiya's Royal Light Grey. Any required touch ups used that color. The outside of the cowl flaps and front engine cowling were painted with AK paints Sea Blue, Intermediate Blue, and Insignia White, which is actually an off white slightly creamy color. It's my first time using AK's paints and I'm duly impressed with them. The kit's exhaust were replaced with metal ones from Rexx. Two of the kit exhaust pipes were lost (granddaughters at play) so I ordered the Rexx items. The lost exhaust pipes is what caused this build to stall so many moons ago. The windscreen had some additional framing added to the bottom edges and to that was added the mountings for the front cockpit lights. I also added extra detail, according to my references, to the flap position selector. The inner windscreen was masked off with Montex Masks and sprayed Tamiya's Nato Black. I had some ragged edges to my masking so Tamiya tape was used to re-mask and re-spray. The flap position selector had a decal applied from BarracudaCals cockpit data stencil sheet (an absolute must for this kit IMHO) and was glued in place. The forward windscreen was then permanently affixed with Tamiya's extra thin cement. I also managed to complete the tail wheel assembly. I think the tire needs a bit more weathering though. A photo I saw in Detail & Scale's book on the Corsair shows the shock strut had a data placard so Archer Fine Transfer came to the Rescue. Thanks Woody! The data placard was dry transferred on to Archer's wet media paper and then applied to the shock strut as a normal decal. The shock piston was covered with Bare Metal Foil to give it that chrome like finish. As I've been bouncing around through the various steps of construction and experimenting with AK paints I decided to assemble and paint the rudder. That included adding the small hook atop the rudder post that the antenna wire will attach to. More has been done on the build but not ready to be photographed yet. We're slowly gettin' there though............... Cheers, Wolf

I'm going with 82/83/76. I left the supercharger intake off to make painting easier and the hole has been left empty. I really don't care if any overspray gets in there because I'm gluing the supercharger intake on top of it after painting. Applying the RLM 76... here we go! I'm using AK Real Colors for this shade. I really like how this color goes on. Thinned at 2:1 with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, it goes on very smoothly with enough transparency to dial in the pre-shading effect. I had the bright idea of using Mr Hobby Aqueous RLM 76 to provide a slight contrast to some panels. To fully utilize the pre-shading, I paint panel by panel, trying to build up the most paint in the middle of the panel and to leave the edges just a little bit darker. It's ok to be inconsistent and not too uniform so as not create an obvious grid pattern with the panel lines. Panel by panel, I start covering the bottom. It's also a final check to see if my re-surfacing work turned out ok and the rivet holes register under this coat of paint. I'm pretty happy with how this troublesome area looks under a coat of paint. Ok... the bottom is done. The pre-shade effect is very subtle and usually doesn't register visually until you get closer to the model. There will other layers of weathering that will add some depth to the model later so we don't have to accomplish everything with the pre-shade. It's also important to go back to an area that you think you've finished as the Tamiya Lacquer Thinner can "bite" into the darker mottle and bring it to the surface as the paint dries. We continue the RLM 76 up the sides of the fuselage. Compared to the pre-shading, the application of the RLM 76, even with the highly-thinned mix, goes pretty quickly. For whatever reason, I don't like the contrast between the two RLM 76 shades on the topside. I think it'll get knocked back quite a bit by the application of the topside green colors but it is bugging me. I like how the bottom turned out. The contrast here seems to work better and adds a bit of visual interest to an otherwise boring landscape. First stage of painting is complete. I now must gather my references as there are some things I need to note about the topside camo like how high the demarcation line is, the mottle pattern and how to go about doing that sawtooth pattern on the leading wing edge.

Progress!! I've managed to get most all of the main stuff done. I did a bit of weathering starting with a panel line wash with Florys wash. I did some staining with Tamiya makeup, went lightly as there are a lot of pics that show a suprisingly clean aircraft. Made certain areas grimy where hands would touch loading weapons, boarding, tops of intakes due to boarding, hinge points, typical stuff. The rear fuselage on any Phantom gets dirty, nature of the beast so i went heavier here. Still have to weather the fuel tanks, pylons and weapons. Everything is painted, decalled and gloss sealed, they just need a weathering, a wash and dullcoat. I found on this build my new go to matte coat. Vallejo matt varnish, 70-520. I had initially dusted it with Tamiya XF-86, found it to have a little too much satin sheen. Tried the Vallejo on the airbrakes and flaps, looked great!! Almost dead flat and really helped to blend the thick Tamiya decals in. The AOA decals are just great, they absolutely looked painted on. Back to work tomorrow so will slow down a bit. Don

Here is my another P-40E Included all sets from CMK All colours MRP

Hey all! more progress- Thanks for for stopping by! cheers Pete

Here is my latest scratchbuild, a Thomas Morse S4C, known as the Tommy. I think this is a significant plane as most WW1 aviators had time in one. This 1/32 scale rendering has a Vector resin engine and a turned aluminum cowling. Turnbuckles by Gaspatch and Eduard. Insignias painted on. Thanks for looking in. Comments welcome.

Not confusing, Matsu! I am aware of that stencil. When I was doing internet research, I stumbled onto a French discussion board which discussed this subject. The artist, Herbert Kruse, did a profile and close-up of this side of 150007 based on the photo from the LO+ST book that you've referenced. I don't think I have such a decal but I'll take a look at my spares box to see if there is something similar. Otherwise, I'll have to do without. After I sealed the decals with a thin gloss coat, I did a pastel wash. Usual homemade mix using scrapings from pastel chalks. Dark brown for the bottom and almost black brown for the topside. I did the bottom of the wing halfway so that you can see the difference between the washed and unwashed sections. I do sections at a time so that I don't forget to leave a section unwiped. I focus alot on this center bottom area because of how much work I had to put in to clean it up. Some of the areas that didn't hold the wash will be rescribed to get a uniform result. Back into the light box for a better look at the first stage of weathering.

More Have to say, it was satisfying getting this one of the SOD, time to think of the next build. Don

Hi. This is my first post here. Im from Argentina. This model represent an specific plane that participated in the falklands conflict. Was piloted by the captain Garcia Cuerva in one of the first encounterd with english planes. It was down by argentine artillery for communication problems with the base. The model used is from the Italeri brand, IIIe in 1/32 scale. It have some modifications comparrd to the french version. The support base is based on the parking area prior to the takeoff of missions, from the Rio Gallegos air base. I hope you like it... Saludos!!

It's a pain to go back and re-do but sometimes that voice in the back of my head won't shut up! I got a couple of things done... the upper wing crosses were redone. They were re-sized to 900mm instead of the 1000mm crosses that my references state. Seems to fit the wing better. Also, I got the fuselage mottling done. This is actually my second attempt as the first was way too heavy. Light wisps of paint seemed to work best. Most of the mottling was done with the darker RLM 83 color but a few RLM 82 spots were added randomly.

muzzle )))

This’ll be a very long term project that I will likely work on in between other things. An HK Lancaster with parts I’m designing and printing at home to convert the plane to a Lincoln. This is one BIG model! The conversion adds roughly 3 inches to the length and 6 3/4 inches to the wingspan of the Lancaster and calls for a totally new nose, new wingtips, engine nacelles, longer ailerons and landing flaps, tail modifications, new wheels, and new nose turret and dorsal turrets. Probably other changes too but those are the main ones. It’s a project I started last summer and it took me until last week to finally get the nose drawn up where the contours look halfway decent. Prototypes of the new nose and fuselage extension were printed on my new FDM printer over the last two days and the wingtip extension printed last summer on my resin printer. The nose print failed at 99%; more than enough to confirm the shapes. A bit of tweaking needed but nothing major. A full section of the rear fuselage has been removed and replaced by a longer printer part. Simply cutting and adding a plug doesn’t work as the contour of the belly is uniform, and this way it means the farther-forward turret position of the Lincoln is also captured in one piece. This multi-colored extension section is one piece; ran out of filament part way through and had to use what I had on hand

After assembly, the horizontal tailplanes were pushed into place. The fit is crazy tight... I may have to shave the tab thickness down before they break on me. The addition of the tail planes shows us how far we've gotten and also how close to painting we are.

The exhausts are in and she's very much standing on her own legs: The position lights made from red or blue acrylic sheet turned out quite nice: Targeting pod: The True Details wheels are outstanding: This is by far the most challenging build I have done and even though I get gratification from the result, I am borderline not enjoying building anymore since every single step of the process is painful. Hardly anything fits, I guess Aires just threw in the towel on fit also, the front door hinges in no way match the Aires gear well. Can't wait to get her done! Cheers, Marcel

I keep putting off the work on the Harrier II I'm building, so I built Revell's very nice Rammjäger. It isn't completely done (I'm waiting for some seatbelts and easy wire for the antenna I've ordered), but wanted it to show here already. It is built out-of-box, except I riveted the kit. Took me about 6 days to build it. Decals are also from the box and I have to say; some of the best I've used! Very impressive! In all, there are 4 canopies in the kit, This is the 'open' one with the armour side windows. This kit is ideal for when you like to build a weathered kit! The instructions mention the camouflage to be RLM 74/82 over RLM 76, but it is RLM 74/75 over 76. Here's the starboard side: And the port side: And just one more on the field: This is a great kit for a very reasonable price and I will surely build another one of the rammjägers. I have an F8 in the stash, maybe I'll give that one a go! However, I can't keep putting off finishing that Harrier, so that'll probably be the next one I'll post here. I hope you like the result of this A8/R2! Keep building, you all! Nic

I pushed on and finished the model after getting sick of moving it out of the way to work on other stuff! The big challenge in this build was getting the FOD covers and bungs right. I felt that these were required to make the model ‘pop’ with its fairly boring grey scheme. From the time that I saw pics of the 3sqn aircraft with these in, it had to be done. I made up a four part mask to paint the exhaust bung. I attached the Aires vinyl remove before flight tags and matted them with some flat clear. There is a thin dark yellow line around the cross which I hand painted that has been blown out by the photo and can’t be seen, it I am pretty happy happy with how these turned out. some pics of the completed model In its new home in my ‘mostly Aussie’ cabinet.

As the person who wrote the Wingnuts article which has sparked this thread I would just like to note that it was written for the WW1 aircraft models forum and an LSP member linked it to this site. Reading all the posts it has generated here it seems I have some haters judging by some of the remarks, which is unfortunate because I'm also a member of LSP and have always held this site in the highest regard. I believed- mistakenly it seems- that we should always try to be supportive of one another. I am sorry the article seems to have outraged some people. It concerned me that the closure of Wingnuts seemed to just generate a stampede of hysterical Wingnut kit buyers and the people who created these model kits seemed to have been ignored. Also, Wingnuts has enjoyed a loyal customer base for 11 years and generated a fan base that is still mystified as to why the business suddenly closed down. As a matter of interest NZ's leading online news website Stuff.co has today published an article stating Wingnuts has closed and refers to my article. To the Moderators frustrated about WNW threads - I have not generated any of them and am only responding now to address the negativity. Dave Wilson Gold Coast Australia

Seems as though I've had a lot of free time today. So I've spent most of the time on the modeling bench. I started on the fuselage markings. This is the tail end of the red and yellow unit ID band of JG301 with the green Gruppe bar. Pulling off all of the masking shows the finished band. Note that I've left the horizontal stablizers detachable so it's easier to paint around the tail. Very small WNr codes for the tail printed from the Silhouette Portrait... The fusleage crosses, tail swastika and WNr codes are done. I'll let this dry and then I'll try the painted out CW+CG codes.

I appreciate any and all comments, Pete! Just to show that the Silhouette Portrait is not infallible... The upper wing cross was a simple fix... The sawtooth correction was a little more involved. First, I had to re-establish the RLM 76 base. In order to equalize the new RLM 76 with the old, I put down a base of neutral grey underneath. After the RLM 76 was applied over the neutral grey, the new masks with a smaller and tighter pattern of triangles was used. The result is a little less dramatic than the first attempt, which was the goal here. In preparation of the re-painting, I brilliantly thought to use the mask leftovers to protect the crosses. So that saved me a step or two! The sawtooth redux is complete. As you can see, I've lowered the camo demarcation on the front end but have not started on the mottling yet.

Cheers everyone! A few beers more and I started adding the NACA ducts and vents to the fuselage which meant cutting more holes... As usual, the parts were 3D printed. Drilling the window for the ECM evaluator's compartment was a bit more difficult than initially expected. The very brittle resin was shattered when I drilled the hole; not a huge problem though. Body filler, Magic Sculp and a stainless steel ring cut from a tube to obtain a perfectly circular and neat window frame and a bit of sanding.

Long time since the last update. I put this kit aside to concentrate on getting both my OV-10A and F-100D finished. Now that they were done, I have done some more work. I remastered the intake bungs and added a lot more depth to them, also designing a small paint mask to enable me to paint the 3 SQN logo on them. I am not usually a fan of intake/exhaust covers but in this case, with a relatively boring paint scheme, they are essential to make the model pop. The ejection seat was the next area that I wanted to change. The kit one is OK, but differed from the excellent walk around photos of a seat that my good mate Peter took. I removed the back rest and made a new one from plastic card that I shaped and installed along with some Tamiya two part putty to make the large fairing behind it. I stippled Mr Surfacer over all of the cushion surfaces to give them texture, and then ditched the kit photo etch belts, cutting off the buckles and combining them with thin aluminium strip. I dressed the shoulder straps, hanging them behind the head rest as per some reference photos that I found. The painted seat. Still have a few small placards to do. The black strips of the pull handle were done with the thin strip decal stripe that separates schemes on most Wingnut Wings kits. I painted the cushions with a Tamiya NATO black. How it looks now. Sorta want to get this off my bench!

Yes folks, that was a fun ride. Our hosting company is next to useless, unfortunately, and when I couldn't log in to or even restart the server, they left us high and dry for 48 hours. Needless to say, we'll be moving to a new hosting company as soon as it's practical to do so. Thanks everyone for your patience and understanding! Kev

Today progress

The fuselage looks like a Whale again - time for a beer! Now comes the interesting yet annoying part - adding surface detail. That's when a model comes to life. The firt panels were scribed and raised details were added. My Silhouette Protrait was very helpful to cut scribing templates and raised details. Some of the raised details will be replaced with plastic sheet whilst some will remain vinyl, such as the strengthening plates at the tail extension. I will now cut holes into the fuselage again to add some NACA ducts and vents. Then, I will add the closed camera bulges.

Hi all, getting closer on the pilot seats! The carabiners still need to be strapped in. the chem light glow sticks are just Evergreen rod, with one end pinched flat with a flat nose pliers, then a little Tamiya clear green- the first aid kits are Live Resin items, with markings from Archer- dry transfers that I made into decals. The intercom panels need some markings; but man they are small! We’ll see I guess- the seat frames need some dust too- cheers Pete

Some little progress this week - I'm continuing with the interior at a glacial pace, but have got the navigator's and engineer's seats done. A basic structure was made from plastic card and Evergreen, and then some cushions were fashioned from Milliput: Seats by Thomas Probert, on Flickr These were then painted up and some etch seatbelts from the spares box were added, and now the seats sit patiently with the other interior components ready for installation in time: IMG_0087 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr That's about all I'm going to do for the main interior area as very little will be seen when the forward bulkhead is installed. In other news, I've finished off the last shaping of the rear fuselage and have got some primer on it: IMG_0081 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0080 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0078 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr IMG_0076 by Thomas Probert, on Flickr It's good to see the rear fuselage and tail all one uniform colour and I'm happy with the rear fuselage mods now so this section is ready for scribing. Until next time, Tom