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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/27/2019 in all areas

  1. 48 points
    RAF Liberators

    HobbyBoss B-24 Liberator

    Hey folks, I'm normally a lurker here, I don't tend to post outside of my regular sites just read other peoples stuff. But I've been told I should post this over here so here I am, cap in hand showing you my finished bird. It's out the box and yes I'm fully aware of all the shortcomings of the kit, Davis Wing, Turrets yardy yar etc etc I've put Master Model Barrels on it and some RB belts, not that you can see them, but other than that she's El Naturel Finished in Alclad, Gunze and Ushchi metal powders, weathered with Mig products. Thanks for looking and be gentle......... Gary
  2. 41 points
    Gisbod

    Factory Corsair Tamiya

    Hello all, Tamiya’s masterpiece Corsair. The best kit I’ve ever gotten my sticky mitts on. Grey Matter engine bay and various additions - see the build log for details. Thanks for looking in Guy
  3. 34 points
    Hi guys, I finally got around to taking some better pics of this model, which I completed earlier in the year. Chuck, big thanks for nudging me on the pics Thx for looking, Marcel
  4. 33 points
    Lothar

    IAF A-4N

    When I had to spend some time in the ICU earlier this year I made a promise to myself: Should I get out of this somehow, I would build and COMPLETE a model as soon as possible - and I did. It's the Trumpeter A-4M kit with IsraCast conversion and IsraDecals. Colors are Gunze. Hope you'll like what you see. Lothar
  5. 27 points
    This time the model quite difficult to paint. The model Su-27 Ukrainian Air Force in camouflage "Digi" set is Trumpeter 1:32 model well-known so it doesn't make sense to describe something about this set again. I can write one thing - we are waiting for a new model of this aircraft. Model made straight from the box, I painted this model with the home made mask so they are not a perfect reflection of the camo Su-27. I hope, however, that this model will please you, I like this camouflage very much ..
  6. 24 points
    Cheers everybody, it's bee a while since I finished my big Prowler - buying a new background for my photo booth was a good opportunity to finally take some photos of the finished model. For those who haven't followed the build, here's the link to the WIP thread: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/57040-how-to-destroy-an-expensive-kit-with-just-a-few-cuts-or-prowler33/ Photo quality is not ideal, I've been playing around with the photo settings but I am obviously not a good photographer... Anyway, comments, questions and critique are welcome as usual. "Beaker" waiting for the rest of the crew to board the aircraft.
  7. 23 points
    Hello friends. I started last week a new model that I was commissioned. The fully scratchbuild model is a 1/32 scale Grumman Hellcat F-6F in polystyrene plastic with resin parts such as wheels and propellers and canopy in acetate plastic. The construction is well advanced with almost all the fuselage ready including the rivets marked and wing installed. In the coming days I will post more photos of progress. Thank you! Hercules de Araujo
  8. 23 points
    Hi Here is 1/32 Hasegawa P-40K Warhawk with the markings of “Miss Wanna II” from 25th FS 51st FG (Summer 1943) . Modifications: Eduard interior set, Master model pitot tube and gunsight set Decals: Superscale decal set #320261 Paints: Gunze Sangyo acrylics
  9. 22 points
    CZPetrP

    He-162 1/32

    Kit - Revell Engine, tail - CMK Cockpit, Wheel Bay with Wheels, Gun Bay - Aires Seatbelts - HGW Colours - Gunze Mr., Alclad II, Wash- AK interactive Model and accessories are built without any problems. I recommend to all Photo: my friend Miloslav (thank you) More photos here: https://www.leteckemuzeumliborezy.cz/he-162a-2/
  10. 22 points
    evening ladies Hi Mark - interesting spot - I hadn't noticed that - the factory picture shows this as being unfilled so rightly or wrongly thats how it is going to be Hi Brian - well, I cover that in a moment, but I also did a whole compound curve tutorial that shows wingtips being done too (bless that old F7F..) Hi Bryan - I use solder in 0.6 & 0.8mm and found by rolling it straight (using a steel ruler on a sheet of glass), the best way to bend it is to slide tube over the bit you want to bend up to the bend itself and then holding the 'pipe', pull the tube in whatever direction and you keep the thing straight (well straighter anyway..) seems the last few weeks has been a bit slow, but to be honest I have been hard at things, learning from a few mistakes on the way and redoing stuff I wasn't happy with.. ..the first thing was to finish skinning the leading edge of the wings at the underside wing root - I needed a smooth surface to skin onto as this had all been chopped about to add in the frames & ribs in the landing gear well.. here, at the top you can see the curved sub-skin added... ..there is a lip / ledge the gear door sits on so a jig was made and some annealed 'L' shaped litho bent to shape and painted.. ..these were then added and filled flush with the new skin so I can put soft annealed litho on top of both without it picking up the uneven surfaces below - here before filling.. ..then the panel itself was made by getting a tape template of the shape and cutting it short at the curved edge to get the lip.. .. I then forgot to take a picture of the finished panel, so onto the wingtip ..I started by cutting the straight edges where the wingtip panel meets the other panels, then this join was taped down and the shape burnished to follow the curves. Once this was done a straight edge was added at the very tip where it will meet the underside tip skin.. once I had the main shape, the fastening rivets were added and here it is seen hinged upwards before adding the impact cement to fix it.. ..before sanding smooth, the shape is pretty good anyway.. ..and the final wingtip - as it is going to be being painted, any tiny blemishes can be dealt with using primer or filler.. ..the bulk of the last couple of weeks was spent prepping for priming as I know alclad is so unforgiving.. I also replaced the landing light panel three times as I just couldn't get it to blend properly with the surrounding panels and actually found when I fitted the main skin as I rolled the leading edge skin over the edge, it was not all stuck right onto the surface so I had this hollow area that kept crushing and denting - it was all pretty frustrating.. ..to add to that, after finally etch priming both wings, I found the primer easily coming off - so after a bit of research it turns out etch primer has a best before date - if it is not fresh, the acid in it goes off and it is basically like paint rather than etching and grabbing onto the surface that all needed stripping, the rivet depressions cleaning out and the whole prep process done again... anyways, I got some proper single pack etch primer from Phoenix Precision and have just painted the first coat - I am impressed when thinned 50/50 it goes on well and preserves much more detail than my old primer.. ..you be the judge ..that stuff needs 36hrs to etch the surface so after that I can get a look at further prep for an alclad finish - though that stuff is pretty fragile so not sure what stage to paint it as I don't want to damage it and even taping up the wings is a risk as I have had it come off with masking tape.. more next time TTFN Peter
  11. 21 points
    Hi all, my another Mustang 1/32 Revell (new) Lifelike decals set HGW wet transfers Barracuda battery, wheels, cockpit decals. Eduard LooK instrument panel Colours MRP, Gunze, Alclad II
  12. 21 points
    Fancherello

    F/A-18A+ Flying Omar Splinter 08

    hello I'm not used to that, but I hav a second project in progress. I've been collecting and documenting VFC-12's 08 Hornet because of its weathering, and some decals have been issued recently. When waiting for some parts for my twin B&W project, I couldnt resist starting that project, which will be rather slow, though. Aires cockpit in progress: Cokcpit has been painted with several layers of shades with hairspray between each one of them, then a wet brush chipped the worn areas. Thanks to Miro Medzihradsky for the negative film tip ! I'v been using Anyz' products for hoses, leg straps and knob decals on the consoles. Very good products. That etched stencil has been issued recently by Radu Brinzan. Great product for weathering. bye Fanch
  13. 20 points
    My messy paint booth offers the perfect background for the requested photos - there are quite a few things to give you an idea of the size of the beast. I am currently running test prints of the sponsons on my Photon but I am not happy at all with the results. I may have to find another solution to print them...
  14. 20 points
    b757captain

    1/48th Monogram B-24D

    Hi gents, This guy has been on and off my shelf of doom for several years so it could be subtitled "Glutton for Punishment". One fine day in the somewhat distant past I came to the realization that over the years I had built all the Monogram (and Revell) 1/48th big bombers, except one: any version of the B-24. Well, gotta fix that! I kinda sorta knew that it would not be a "shake-n-bake" kit but little did I realize just how much work it would turn out to to be! Thus the time-outs on the SOD. I gathered some AM for the kit and ended up using some of it - the wheel wells and engines are CMK, good additions and not too terrible to make up although the wheel wells are a little fiddly to build up. They do look much better than the kit wells though. I thought long and hard between the engines versus the engine/1 piece cowl set and finally decided I couldn't justify the cost difference. Please, please - learn from my mistake! The kit molds the nacelles and cowls as top and bottom halves with the wing. Lots and lots of sanding, filling and re-scribing. I think each nacelle got its own trip to the SOD!. I got the Squadron vac-formed canopy and nose but it was damaged in shipping (big dent in the nose) but after looking at the molding I thought they were not as good as the kit pieces so ended up not using them. Finally the decals are Kits World. Kind of a letdown because the US insignia on the real thing is unique but are not included with the decal set. I tried to find just the insignia with no luck and had no intention of masking and painting them so finally just used the kit insignia. Eduard interior - just the instrument panel but you cant see any of it anyway and brass gear rounded out the AM pieces. As for the rest, paint is a custom mix from True North (figured I'd give them a try since my go-to MM is becoming scarce). Jury still out on the paint. Weathering was just a wash to accent the highlights. Here we go: More to come, Cheers, Mark
  15. 20 points
    April 27/19 Another update, but before I show anything, I was asked what I meant above when I said that a part of this build got the “Chuck Treatment”. All that means is that every single piece of plastic is sanded smooth, every panel line re-scribed and every rivet re-punched- sometimes several times between sanding sessions which remove detail. Some panel lines are added, others are removed and then I use Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color in Black to check my work. You’d be surprised how many flaws that you can’t see pop out with this wash, which means less corrections later after a first coat of paint. That’s a good segue into this next step with the tail of the jet. The vertical stabilizer is two-piece like most kits, but instead of two equal sides, this one is split half-way on one side, which is a real pain to fix. Further, there’s a sink mark and other surface flaws on the plastic. My subject doesn’t have the fin cap, so it should be cut off and slightly rounded at the front edge. Again, after the “Chuck Treatment” of about 6 hours, it can look pretty darn good if I do say so myself. The rudder and horizontal stabilizers are just dry fit. There’s a circular gizmo that isn’t on my jet, so I cut it off and the main seam should be filled with panel lines rescribed. You’d be surprised how many builds of this kit out there retained this seam as a panel line. The bottom join is a bit crude, but with careful sanding and some thinned putty, the gap is filled. Same with the front of the tail fin. There should be only one panel line that extends down the sides and not two, so the front seam should be filled and sanded smooth. Again, CA glue is clear and you can’t tell that it’s filled. Checking references, I forgot to add another panel at the rear, which will be the demarcation line from black paint to titanium. The horizontal stabilizers were sanded thinner and all trialing edges were sanded to a sharp edge. The holes for the stabilizers are too wide, so I used a few coats of CA glue to tighten them up nice and snug for later installation. Frontal view for reference. In my earlier post of the wings, Paulo kindly pointed out that the ailerons were drooping down too low, which is the natural angle of the kit parts. The fix is tricky, but I found the main culprit is the outside hinges, which are too thick on the bottom, forcing the aileron down too far. I carefully trimmed them with a knife, but to ensure a perfect angle, I glued them in with thin cement which is much stronger than CA glue after paint. All other parts will be left off for ease of painting. Note that the correct angle has the horizontal panel line on the aileron at the bottom of the wing- and no lower. That’s it for now boys. I’m off on another vacation in a week, because we Geezers need to travel while we're still above the dirt! Cheers, Chuck
  16. 19 points
    Plm

    OV-10D Bronco KittyHawk 1/32

    Hi, Here is the second one of the year. After the Tempest, I continue in the propellers but in more modern way. I added the Aerocraft metal landing gear wich are much more rigid than the kit ones. As for my P-61, I added a metal spar that covers the entire span, highly recommended because the bonding surfaces are very small between the three parts of wings and beams. Markings are painted with masks cut with the Silhouette. The armament configuration is totally invented. Hope you like it. This is my second KH kit after the Kingfisher and they are not so difficult to built if you take your time. Philippe.
  17. 19 points
    some more Peter
  18. 17 points
    Robert

    1/32 F4U-1a 'Brat III'

    Hi all. Here is my Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1a Corsair. I chose No.18 'Brat III' flown by Capt; Dean S. Hartley Jr. of VMF-225, Guam, August 1944.  Thanks for looking.    
  19. 17 points
    howdy folks ..just a little update as not had much time this week.. you can see here that where the skin panels on the fin & stabilisers end, it drops down to the bare fuselage shape - this is a problem for adding all the fillets around this area as when you burnish soft metal to get the complex shapes of the fillets, if it stayed like this, the fillets would distort where the existing skin ends and would form ridges... ..that means all that area needs to be filled so the surface onto which the fillets are added is perfectly flat - even a seam line can show through.. ..the first step is to get a tape template of the missing area and cut a sheet of plain annealed litho to go there.. here this bit covers that area and the side of the tail fillet... ..then it is stuck & burnished and all the seams filled so it is one contiguous surface.. ...I also skinned underneath by the tailwheel well.. ..the fillets will come next and be quite involved - I only have drawings for the early P51B version without a tail fillet.. ..you can see how they sit on top of the aircraft skin.. ..and I have some good photo's of the fin fillet to work from.. - just need to unpick the order they go down - this fillet will be added later as it goes over panels I won't add until the cockpit is in place and the rear canopy are is built up.. ..back soon with more.. TTFN Peter
  20. 17 points
    I come back to modelling with the old Trumpeter’s Su-27B. This kit stayed almost 4 years on the shelf with half work done. So I decided to finish it as soon as posible before I ruin all that I did before. It seems so hard to pull the trigger for my new enlisted project in 2019. This old kit nicely detailed fit well together but also presents some minor mould’s errors. Luckily, the decal sheet still in good condition and I have no problem to finish her. Su-27 is a big plane, compared to thoses from US like F/A-18F, F-15E, F-14s. It’s big, so it’s Russian. Here we go and I hope you, friends love her.
  21. 17 points
    Today update. First with decals. Second in colours.
  22. 17 points
    skiner

    Heinkel He 162 A2 Revell 1/32

    Here 's my last product. This kit is correct and of course we could enhance some parts as we want. My sources to make my kit are mainly: French magazine Wing master n°44 Heinkel He 162: From Drawing Board to Destruction: the Volksjager Spatz Classic Publications / Ian Allan Publishing and a french web site http://memorial.flight.free.fr/He162.html The paint are for the camo RLM 76.....Gunze 417 RLM 82.....Tamiya XF 26 RLM 81.....Gunze 421 Well , I hope you like See you for a next one....
  23. 17 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Bf109K-4 Weisse 8

    I agree on all points. Henri makes beautiful props! On my D-9 build, I was able to use a magnet to make the spinner removable so that you could see the detailed hub. But this one has a cannon firing through the spinner so I don't think I'll be able to do that. Yes, this one is going to get riveted. I actually prefer the look of manually applied rivets versus the usual 1/32 molded rivets (Trumpeter and some Revell). Wow... that is great information and an impressive piece of hardware. It looks brand new and it looks modern... for a restoration? Since it is so hidden, I'll probably leave it as is. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I move through the build. Thank you Vincent! I played around with fitting the Eagle Editions cockpit into the fuselage. First, I wanted to check fit of the kit without the cockpit. The molded details on the interior of the fuselage walls has to be removed. I scraped it off using a curved x-acto blade and then finished it off with rough sandpaper. The rear sill needs to be trimmed to accommodate the new sill. Once that is done, I stick the sidewalls into place using blue-tack. Then the cockpit rear wall, front bulkhead and floor and slipped into place and secured with tape. Hmmm... not bad. The junction between the rear sill and fuselage has be repaired but otherwise fit is pretty good. That rear bar resting on the sill was sawed away from the resin piece since it seemed like it will obstruct the fit of the canopy. I may have to shorten it. The wing assembly has a spar so I wanted to check to see if it would conflict with the resin cockpit. It did so I had to trim two of the mounting tabs on top of the spar. Once I did that, the wings sat into place fairly well. The fit is ok but there are some gaps that will need to be addressed once it come time for glue, I'm guessing.
  24. 17 points
    Dukie99

    A Tale of two Cobras: FINISHED

    The Whiskey is finished. Super happy how the transparencies turned out, more pictures along the Zulu when it is done. Cheers, David
  25. 16 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Bf109K-4 Weisse 8

    I'm going to see if I can keep two builds going at once. I'm almost to the halfway point on the Corsair build and once the wings are complete, painting will begin and I think that is a good time to have another project going. This is the Hasegawa Bf109K-4 kit. I've not built this one yet but having built the Hasegawa Fw190D-9 three times, I feel a sense of familiarity as I look at the sprues on this kit. I'll be adding some aftermarket to this build including, in no particular order: 1. Eagle Editions 109K-4 Resin Cockpit Set 2. Henri Daehne 109G/K Resin Prop Set 3. RB Productions 109K-4 Wheel Well Detail Set 4. RB Productions 109G/K Erla Canopy 5. Barracuda Studios 109G/K Resin Wheels 6. AIMS Late War 109s Decal Sheet 7. Eagle Cals 109K-4 Decal Sheet 8. Airscale Luftwaffe Instrument and Placard Decal Sheets 9. MDC resin ammo chutes The aircraft I will be modeling is White 8, Werk Nummer 332884, which was captured in this striking color photo: It's represented in this profile painting by Claes Sundin: And also recently by AIMS Models on their Late War 109s decal sheet: Since I have Silhouette Portrait cutter, I will be using the AIMS decal sheet to produce masks for the major markings. The only decal I will be using from the AIMS sheet will probably be the "Gabi" inscription below the canopy. The Eagle Cals 109K-4 sheet will be available for stencils. I am going to try and use the AIMS and Eagle Cals decal sheets to produce masks for the spinner spiral.
  26. 16 points
    Thanks guys It’s pretty much fallen together now, I’ve installed the engine and bay and the other appendages and it looks like a Corsair now. I can’t tell you enough what an amazing kit this is - go and buy one today! Still to do - the wing and attachment, and the ground equipment; no idea how I’m going to tackle that. Guy
  27. 16 points
    Miloslav1956

    P-47D-25 & P-47D-30 1/32 Hasegawa

    Today update - base colour.
  28. 16 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Bf109K-4 Weisse 8

    Thanks for the great discussion, everyone! Lots to think about when it comes to the belly modifications but I'll make some decisions when I get to that point. Right now, I'm still working on the cockpit. I brush painted some colors over the RLM 66 base on the instrument panel. The instrument panel was given a gloss coat. I have a set of Airscale instrument panel decals as well as a placard set. Using a punch set, I began to populate the panel, one instrument at a time. Using the same punch set and sheet of overhead transparency plastic, I created a set of glass dials for all of the instruments. Before the glass dials are stuck in position, I give the instrument panel a final flat coat (actually a 50/50 gloss/flat finish). You can forgo the dials and put a drop of Future/Gloss in each dial and call it finished. The glass dials are just an extra touch. Here is what the finished panel looks like in the light box.
  29. 16 points
    Thanks Guy's - Today's the fourth of May and it's 74 years ago Ulrich Planck landed at 'Fliegerhorst Grove' with his Arado Ar 234 8H+BH. At Bernard Montgomery's headquarters in the Netherlands, Wehrmacht forces in northwestern Germany, the Netherlands and Denmark surrendered to the Allies, effective at 8:00 a.m. on May 5. The Germans Surrender to Montgomery on Lüneburg Heath, 4th May 1945 Well I wasn't able to complete this diorama for this anniversary, still want to add some extras. But I'm pretty sure it will be all done, next year for the 75th anniversary. Cheers: Kent
  30. 16 points
    Miloslav1956

    P-47D-25 & P-47D-30 1/32 Hasegawa

    Today update. Great praise for HGW and J. Bobek for their work. Everything fits perfectly.
  31. 16 points
    Last small update.
  32. 15 points
    hello again folks Hi Craig - I only do this when using annealed litho, or the soft ali I use for compound curves - a good example of this comes in a minute when doing the stabiliser fillets - it's a really good way of getting a virtually invisible seam rather than trying to butt two complex edges together.. So, fillets.... they are all curved as you woulkd expect, some in multiple directions - I was hoping the dorsal fin was the last panel as the very tip of it overlaps the fuselage skin I can't add until the cockpit is in.. but no, it's the first panel down - I guess as it's the least removed in service.. ..to get an idea of the area, this is for a P51C without a dorsal fin - I couldn't find too much on one with a fin and all the resto pics I have of Lopes Hope do not yet have all the fillets fitted so some assumptions were made from what I could see that they are pretty similar to a 'D' model.. ..you can see curvature & shapes and the fittings that fasten them too ..I did the dorsal fin but forgot to take pics, so this is the upper forward fillet first.. ..a sheet is bent & taped down to start the forming process.. ..a ball pein hammer is used to gently beat it into shape, and helped with balsa rubbing blocks and hard wood coffee stirrers.. ..here I am trying to get it to conform to the leading edge and the curved part that runs out onto the fuselage.. ..after shaping a number of scaled templates were used to derive the shapes - these are side views so I have to allow for the shape as it curves away from the eye.. ..and soon all the fillets were in place ready for final shaping & smoothing - at the leading edge you can see where the panels overlap - by sanding away the overlap a perfect seam results - in fact on the full size one this is a butt weld which is finished on the outside.. ..after final finishing and finessing some of the edges, the fasteners were added - this was a vet labourious process as each one must be punched, then marked with an awl for the fastner, then flattened, then added - there are about 60 each side.. ..once the other side has it's fasteners (I can only do so many at a time without getting bored..), I will move along the underside to the air scoop & exit under the fuselage.. TTFN Peter
  33. 15 points
  34. 15 points
    Here is 1/32 Hasegawa Messerschmitt Bf-109 G10 finished with the markings of “White 43” W.Nr.130369 from 1./NJG 11 İN Fassberg-Germany during April-May 1945. Cockpit modified by MDC cockpit set. Other modifications are: Quickboost exhaust Master Details Horizontal Tail Surfaces set. Barracudacast wheels Barracudacast Propeller set AIMS Decal set “Monotone Me’s” Paints : Gunze Sangyo acrylics.
  35. 15 points
    jbrundt

    Trumpeter TBF-1C Avenger

    Started the Avenger with a crapload of PE....mix of soldering parts and CA.
  36. 15 points
    I'm not a big helicopter builder but I've always loved the AH-1 ever since I watched them fly overhead and knock the sheet out of 'targets'. It was a sight to see to say the least. Iv'e never seen the newest version up close but it looks like a killer to me. I have a rule that for every new kit I finish, I have to pull one off the shelf of doom and finish it before I start another. I have been doing fairly good with that rule until Academy came out with the AH-1Z, damn you Academy haha. After opening the box, I knew I wouldn't be able to resist starting it. It really is one of Academy's best kits. The exterior detail is just amazing! With that said, it's not perfect. The cockpit is very basic and not all that accurate, they didn't even include seat belts. What's up with that? The canopy is very close to the real thing but the top part is flat when it should be a bit rounded. The clear parts themselves are crystal clear either. The kit is very basic when it comes to things like open panels and not having engines. Some will like this and it seems to be a way of saving money, this kit is fairly inexpensive after all. I had planned on going all out on this build but I couldn't find enough detailed cockpit photos to scratch the details, plus there isn't a lot of aftermarket stuff available. I know I'll be building more than one of these in the future so I decided to build this one OOB and build another after hopefully more aftermarket becomes available, specifically a cockpit. I'm already at the paint stage but I haven't had the time to post a build thread. I'll try to go through the issues I had along the way so it will hopefully help others with their build. I have to say that so far there hasn't been a lot of problems to deal with. The fit is first class and even rivals Tamiya's latest stuff. There are a lot of kit photos on the internet but I'll drop a few to show just how nice it really is. Slide molding, how nice is that! Here is the Pit, not great but not bad either. They did a good job with the IP's and they really stand out. This first thing I noticed was it didn't have full intakes. Turns out not to be a problem with the way it angles back to the engine face. It's hard to explain how it works but it's not an issue at all once it's all built up, even the big panel line you see here isn't visible. On the other hand, the ejector marks are a different story... These need filled too... The cockpit fit is really good, this is the only place I used putty. Only the bottom part is visible once everything is put together. Black cockpits are difficult for me. I tried to break up all the black using different shades and dry brushing. The pit reminds me of the Trumpeter Intruder pit, neither are very detailed and accurate but look pretty good after they are painted up. I think it came out ok but it's still a lot of black! I think the pit floor is supposed to be grey but I had already finished it before I found out. This kit includes green decals for the touch screens but every photo I've seen they have a purple tint to them. I was going to use clear film for these but I had to remind myself that this was supposed to be a quick build! I just painted them dark purple... Here is my attempted at making the belts, not great but will do the job. Cheesy, I know. I used lead sheet for the belts and some old buckles from the Tamiya F-16. I made the bottom buckle based on a very grainy photo I found. I still can't get over how these weren't included especially when there was a really nice PE set that came with the kit... I'll post more soon, thanks for looking! Bryan
  37. 15 points
    The model will be made from Italiari's TF-104 duel control F-104: The full lighting set up: AM, plus a Master Model pitot tube, including two Nam era pilots. It was about as close as I could come for 1959/1960. I know their helmets may be a bit too up to date for late 1959, but hey ho, they were better than any of the other choices out there. AM also includes the gorgeous Eduard exhaust and a 7/8" by 12" clear acrylic rod for the base I have yet to purchase. No further AM really needed on this one since two pilots and some lighting will take the focus in the pit, and no need for AM wheels, gear or wells with none of that showing: Lastly, I will supplement my build with the very nice Victory productions F-104 Starfighters Part 1 decals: I will use custom made paint masks on my Silhouette cutter for the rest of the markings not included in the decal set, along with the stars and bars. Im really looking forward to a change of pace here with a jet, as well as getting back to my roots of foiling with kitchen foil! yay! Cheers till the next episode!
  38. 15 points
    A giant leap forward with the Aeromarine. After painting the fuselage with several thin layers of white and sealing it off with future, it was time to start the masking process.. I decided not to use a complete black paint, rather a rubber like tone. The bottom of the hull. Masking for a second time for the windows. Finally the tape is off. It's beginning to look like an Aeromarine... Cheers: Kent
  39. 15 points
    After some additions and final touches "Old Crow" finished...
  40. 15 points
    Mr b

    1/32 Intruder A

    Thanks a lot folks The goose is cooked....better pictures later....for the gallery n RFI...hope to take it along for the local group build tomorrow.......overall quite a nice build.....not much of modelling in the near future.....for me.....once I get settled and send for my things, will hopefully restart..... in the meantime, hope you enjoy my mud mover.....thanks to Mark in Belgium for obliging with those wonderful decals.... best regards and happy modelling folks brian
  41. 14 points
    gunpowder

    Airfix 1/24 Hellcat

    Some more of the cockpit.
  42. 14 points
    Gisbod

    Tamiya Factory Corsair *finished*

    Thanks Ferry, Yes, just need a more positive mindset! Just thought I’d post a close up of the ridiculously perfect surface detailing. This kit is the best I have ever made - bar none. It’s going to be tricky building anything else ever again! I’ve added some factory numbers to the wing roots as per production line photos: Guy
  43. 14 points
    Thank you very much ! I added some details tom the Mustang's wheel wells that have to look busy, they are now painted metal, yellowZC ( well, rather greyZC ) will come next bye Fanch
  44. 14 points
    molds for Whirlwind on SH facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pg/specialhobby/posts/?ref=page_internal jan
  45. 14 points
    Painting and adding grass to the 'Grove' base... The corner with the 'Rasensteine'. I had to put glue into every single hole to add the grass to the grass concrete slabs... Detail of the concrete surface. Some stains and 'shadows' to enhance the texture. The rainwater drain alongside the runway. Detail of the drain. This wasn't too bad after all, quite fun doing actually! Cheers: Kent
  46. 14 points
    And here completed :
  47. 14 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Bf109K-4 Weisse 8

    Thanks guys! I've been planning to do a 332xxx or 334xxx K-4 defensive scheme and I noticed White 8 when the AIMS decal sheet came out so... Started toying with the Eagle Editions resin cockpit, sawing off the pour stubs and fitting the components together. So far so good. The different colors of resin bothers me for some reason. I may shoot the components with primer just to have that uniform "pre-painted" look. I'll be looking at the necessary modifications to the fuselage parts next.
  48. 13 points
    Today update.
  49. 13 points
    baffozac

    IMAM Ro43 1/32 scratch-built

    Same part for the upper wing: 3D printed ribs and 2,4 mm Evergreen tube for the spars. The only change is the inner spar a 2 mm carbon rod. Now it looks more like a biplane.
  50. 13 points
    Thunnus

    1/32 Hasegawa Bf109K-4 Weisse 8

    Thanks for the great comments and the additional info about the G-10 breather placement! And thanks to the generosity of an LSP member, I've received MDC resin exhaust chutes so I don't have to make my own. Thanks Damian! These have a curved surface on the downwind edge of the chute that would've been hard to replicate. I've performed some corrections to the central belly portion based on an excellent article by Vince K. These include filling in the vent in the center, opening up the Mk 108 chute and putting in some breather outlets for the engine. Some questions were asked along the way regarding components of the correction and Vince himself was kind enough to elaborate on the reasoning behind these changes. As you can see, the Mk108 chute needs to be blocked off since the wing spar part is visible. The exhaust tips have been previously hollowed out. There exhaust deflectors supplied as separate parts in this kit but they are on the thick side. Instead of trying to thin them, I thought it would be easier to replace them with brass sheeting. The port side deflector has a bend to deflect the hot exhausts away from the supercharger intake. Much better in-scale representation, I think!
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