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Returning to the wooden flaps... first, the recessed panel lines were filled. I used black CA so that I could still use the lines as a guide for placing the decals. Only two colors this time, white and off-white. I am going to use another wood decal pattern that has more grain detail. I like this a little better than the initial try and much better than the decals that Eagle Editions supplies.

Ok, lets start with something small. The underwing fuel tanks have a good shape and recessed panel lines, but the plastic is very thin, hard to glue. I could use a central keel again but on something that is supposed to be round the keel will distort into an oval. So .....I have printed out a round core that will support the outer skin. First step, measure the interior diameter of the tank. 18.87 mm. This precise measurement allows the printer do produce the exact size needed. It is one of the advantages of using a 3d printer, 18.87mm needed, 18.87 mm produced. I have a

One tank primed, the other in process. Although my 3d printed core is very useful it did not help out on the ends of the tanks. So I filled the end of each tank with Bondo. When it had cured I sanded each half flat and then super glued it together. The pylons came from an F-16 and were cut down to the correct shape and size. As with almost any Vac subtle shape differences crop up between the different halves of almost anything. Case in point, the fuel tanks, Although they look identical they are not and this leads to extra work to get them right.

Hi guys, as promised, here's the X-15A2 list of tweaks. Finalizing it took more time than foreseen because of conflicting information linked to the differences between the three airframes and the constant evolution of the appearance of the X-15A2. The kit is quite nice but still asks for a ton of work to get a very nice replica. As usual, feel free to correct, comment or ask. I'm quite happy this one is ended as the lack of final evaluation and the conflicting information prevented me from working on the kit for years..! There are many booby traps. For insta

Pre-production example of Revell Me 262: More coming soon!

Yet another book arrived today, a marvelous companion to the P-51 & P-47 books from the same series.

Here we give all photos that we found - ebay ....45 page of inspiraton https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=80971&start=660

Especially when they don't have paint on them: Jari

with some more detail (and a fingerprint - sigh)

@chuck540z3 Stunning work Chuck!! I'm not too much of a jet fan, but the Lawn Dart has always fascinated me! Love what you're doing to it, always a great fan of your work and your methodology!! @Anthony in NZ You and I might have a lot of home time to do some modelling soon unfortunately, I know a lot of people, and I, who feel the same regarding the complacency here. Our "pandemic manager" at work is starting to make noises again.... But either way, please keep posting as well, your work is just absolutely stellar as well!!

Hye! After more or less 70 years exposed well or bad conditions of storage... Of course, I am speaking about the "onions"...not about Radub... Amities Fab

Warning label on my brand of super glue: "Sealing of mouth and nostrils simultaneously with CA can cause severe reaction. Immediately flush with de-bonder and seek psychological help."

A short pause after I've applied the fuel stencil decals. I think I can start on the mottle work soon.

Hello, with the new year is time to start a new project, a MiG-29A (9-12) Fulcrum. At the beginning I was thinking to do a Czech Fulcrum, but now I've decided for an ex-Czech Fulcrum sold to the Polish Air Force. In the '90 the original Czech's camouflage was retained, and because my Fulcrum will be one of the jets during the exercise "Eagle's Talon" in the 1997 a white band was applied at the time around the rear part of the fuselage. Starting set includes the Trumpeter kit of course and some good books as references. Some aftermark

Hi Derek, thanks for the link and suggestion. After a long furlough my wife has restricted my modeling budget somewhat, so I am restricted to what I can find on the internet for the time. I did find this on the Greek Mirages. The above photo also is a great help to verify the pattern on the upper surface. Hi Alain Thanks very much for the photos of the bare metal tanks. Fortunately you stopped me in time just before I painted the tank in light grey. I an happy with my mix. It is close to 36375 but with a little less blue. For the Bl

Thank you my friends! Some update on the engines nacelles. With all the putty and sanding the surface details has gone... so its time to rescribe the panel lines and rivets: tools and references for this task. Here the result of the task... some details in the engine covers has been already restored too using little bit of plasticard. A thin layer of neutral grey has been sprayed to show the uniformity of the area. CIAO! Piero

P-51B

Sounds awful Dave. I don't like fumes of any kind while I'm building so I clamped one of these a couple of feet away. I don't think I have any allergies re modeling but this thing also helps eliminate other fumes , like the ones eminating from me Good luck

Also out of left field, the IBG PZL P.11c is very nice, but probably somewhat low on popularity.

I usually need to use Flonase and eye drops after a long session with a resin kit and supper glue. Even with a fan pulling air across the bench. Now I have started tacking parts together with small amounts of CA glue and then using epoxy.

Front office starting to come together. Just dry fit for now. Added the kit cockpit placard decals and a few extras from an Airscale set to match reference photos. As usual for Tamiya this is all a super-tight-tolerance click fit, so you have to be super careful that nothing you add from scratch in any way interferes, because there's no wiggle room at all. So far it seems to fit both sides, but I still need to check that the whole fuselage closes around it. That test also requires the radiator ducting assembly, which I finished and which also fits

I’d have to vote for kits still in the box, haven’t built anything made in the last 5 years at least

So, are we not allowed to talk about it in a thread? I’m not asking for a poll or voting. Just people’s thoughts for discussion.

We haven't done KOTY in years. We decided as staff that these are a huge amount of work to compile with little participation so we abandoned the concept around 2015.

Thank you, gentlemen - I appreciate the feedback. The time spent on drawing up the cradle was worth it - for a MAG58! Unfortunately, there’s no commonality between the the cradle for light/medium machine guns & the 50 calibre. As can be seen above, the cradle for the .50 is pretty beefy! Hopefully I’ll have time to finish it this week.

Thanks guys! Taking some baby steps toward the next painting phase, which will be the Light Blue RLM 76 mottle over the greens. I've decided to use Mr Hobby Aqueous RLM 76 mixed with white for this shade since it sprays very well. Here are a few of the smaller components with the light blue...

dryfitted. the inlet is so small you cant see inside, so its just blacked out

these parts were ceneterd on a used minibrush handle, with a resin disc to center in the engine inlet. the 3D printed spinners were shortened and freed of their propblades

so i worked a little on the forward part of the engines and the spinners. using a maverick missle head i scratched the fins

Recent addition.

Well it's been a long time....... Essentially all of my modelling gear was in storage moving from Australia back to NZ in December 2019, then whilst we were in temporary accommodation looking for work and a place to live in NZ. Then of course Covid interfered, which dragged out the process of house hunting for another three months. And after finally getting settled in August 2020, I managed to fracture a heel bone. This meant unpacking stuff and organising the new digs became a tedious affair to say the least. Finally, around Christmas I was able to gingerly place the offended heel on the floo

It depends on the scheme you want to do. I chose an F3 during the gulf war as many stencils and walkways were not present. Many of the Revel RAF version have similar stencils and these were also used. RAF low vis roundels cut, masked and airbrushed. The biggest problem were the white NO STEP signs which I eventually cut with the Silhouette cutter. An easier one is to use Eduard photo etch NO STEP stencils. Not easy but not impossible to do a F3. Hope this helps

Looks like you may already have this pic of a restoration ... Looks a little 'redder' than yours. Somewhere between yours and Jerry's maybe ?

Remember , you can have masks made as well.

Guess I’d have to go with the Kitty Hawk HH-60G P

I don't have the ICM Gladiator but, from the reviews I have seen and online builds, it looks like the front runner for KOTY. Another contender in the "Left field"category, would be the HK Lancaster Nose kit.

So i have person over at the Art Station web site and they do some pretty cool drawings and he had one of a B29 Tie Fighter and thought it would be cool to do this in 3D. So here is the 3D work and now I am of to the printers!, I do have the engines for a B24 kit i hope to use.

Did I say that? no I did not. I just answered your question.

That’ll be £250 please

This current Me 262 build is going to look awesome, John. Just like all the rest. Found this picture for the gang and hoping not to interfere in any way with the great build tread. The white'ish exhaust cone, The lowered flaps, Taped over vertical seams with horizontal rivets showing! The whole conundrum going on here! LOL.... What is this world coming too? Carry on and more pictures when available. Lovely efforts going on here.

At one time I considered the Trumpeter 1/72. I don't have the space for it. Flory models did a review. The conclusion was: It's really big!

1942 de Havilland D.H.82C. Tiger Moth - N667EA (CF-IVO) | EAA Aviation Museum | Oshkosh, Wisconsin https://www.eaa.org/apps/virtualtour/dh82c-cockpit360-eaa.html click on "i " for information on the cockpit shown. use fingers to navigate 360°. and to zoom on. click on camera icon to get rid.

Ok, as I want to do a PAF MiG-29A here some specifics references for this bird: a beautiful decal sheet from Techmod Decals and a comprensive book from Polish Wings series dedicated to the early years of the Fulcrum in PAF. Going to the kit. First of all the Trumpeter MiG-29A kit is better when is compared with the old Revell kit, but also the Trumpeter kit has some errors/mistake in shapes and size. The main fuselage part includes the wings and is splitted with the lower part of the fuselage longitudinally. Personally, I like this solution.

Great work so far, John. I like the number "10" very much. If still needed, here are some photos I took in NASM. Horten 229 (selfie , but I cropped my face). This is unrestored and the engine look used. It is possible that the engines fitted to this Horten were "second hand and used" engines put in place just for construction/clearance/balance purposes because in as far as I know this aircraft never flew. Restored Ar 234. This is in "brand new" pristine condition. It seems to me that brand new engines feature a white coating, whic

Hi In addition to the previous pilot hands on sticks, we converted our US Navy modern fighter pilot sitting 6 (RIO) to the JHMCS helmet. cheers Norbert

Snowbird3a - thanks for explanation on the different wing types. To keep this easy on me, I'm going to keep the cord as is and make a 6-3 hard wing. I've spent numerous nights Googling Sabres, and I've found a couple of great sites with colored photos of Sabres during the Korean War. I'm starting to enjoy the research associated with the builds. I've made some good progress on the build. I started with getting the cockpit sidewalls installed. After scrapping away the kit's sidewalls, I glued in the resin sidewalls: After getting the sidewalls in, I next wor

The blade just keep the gap open so that you can get glue into it. It's kind of an assembly line process where you put glue in the gap, move the blade away from the open gap, close the glued area together with tape, then repeat. The glue is always wet this way and reacts with the plastic much stronger than if it was allowed to dry a bit. We've all applied Tamiya extra thin cement to a long piece of plastic. By the time you get glue to the end, the beginning of the join has dried quite a bit. This method eliminates that. Of course when everything is glued together, I still appl

Even a Stuka pilot's wife is not impressed...

Hi Dan, Our own Frank Mitchell made this kit some years ago: https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=209 Derek