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The days I strived for perfection and accuracy have long gone. These days I'm just happy to finish something. This is my 5th model this year. Paints are Gunze, decals are from HAD - a bit brittle, otherwise excellent - conform to panel lines beautifully. seatbelts are from Radu (superb!). Hope you like. I've also finished a Revell P-51D which I will take pictures of later today. Lothar

G'day everyone. Here's my rendition of ICM's I-153. Very nice build. Good detail, nice fit, but their soft, flexible plastic made for interesting alignment of the long thin wings. It's built almost out of the box, eduard etched seatbelts (I wasnt a fan, and will stick to HGWs belts in the future), and Quickboost exhausts. Painted with MRP paints and rigged with EZline. Denzil

Hi all, A couple more details. The inspection window in the upper surface of the wing, for the aileron pulley and cable. Also seen is the wing centre joint and head padding on the trailing edge of the wing centre section. Finally the wheels (not weathered yet), Mike

Greetings everyone! I have been around the site for quite some time following posts and WIPs so I thought it was about time for my first large project. The following WIP will be my first in the 32nd scale and the first one in Large Scale Planes! As the title shows I will be trying my luck on an F-14B, based on the Tamiya 1:32 kit. Initially I was thinking of representing aircraft 105 from VF-41 with full low visibility colors however I changed my mind during the summer after seeing some wonderful shots of an F-14B 1:32 scale with the VF-102 Diamondbacks decals form Fightertown Decals. The decal set was particularly difficult to track, as it is out of print, however I managed to find a copy in a Japanese online store and in perfect condition no less. The aircraft that will be represented, flew with Diamondbacks during the OEF campaign in Afganistan in 2002. I will be using the 2003 version of the Tamiya kit which includes some updates in comparison to the 1994 and the 1980 versions. Also the following after market sets will be used accordingly: -Teknics ΤΚ32012 F-14B Tomcat/Bombcat Cockpit Superset -Teknics TK32013 F-14B Airframe conversion set -GRU-7(A) ejection seats from Avionix cockpit set BLC32039 -Aires 2099 F-14B/D Tomcat exhaust nozzles -If it is possible to get my hands on the exhaust nozzles form the 1:32 Tamiya F-16 they will be used instead -Hadmodels 432003 F-14B/D Upgrade photoetched part set -Crossdelta CD32002 F-14 Step area & Stiffeners -Master Model AM-32-031 F-14 Alfa Probe & Angle Of Attack probe -True Details TDP32202 1/32 F-14D Tomcat Resin Wheel Set (Late) -Eduard 32144 F-14A Tomcat exterior photoetched part set -Fightertown Decals 32009 VF-102 F-14B "Diamondbacks" OEF -Armament from the kit or Tamiya's F-16 The construction began with some modifications to the airframe around the cockpit area and the nose. Tamiya's mold in general includes not only raised lines but some panels as well. Initially I thought it was a mistake however it seems that very early Tomcats did have those. I could not find photos form both sides however at least on the right it seems that the panel was raised for some reason. In later photos these areas are not raised, so they were sanded down. One thing that is weird is how Tamiya chose to represent the refueling panel. In the kit it is neither closed nor open so since I would not doing it open it was covered with epoxy putty and sanded down while afterwards the panel lines were rescribed. Next, a characteristic electronics panel behind the cockpit was rescribed adding a bit of detail. An area on the Tamiya kit that can be improved are the NACA vents. The kit provides the correct gun vents for a late Tomcat however they are provided as one piece with the airframe. Using a rotary tool the plastic behind each vent was removed, the thickness of the leading edges was reduced and Evergreen plasticard was used to restore them. Eduard's PE was used for the gun muzzle blast fairing. HAD models PE set provides a replacement for the grills beneath the aircraft's ladder so the kit's detail was removed using a rotary tool. After the PE was in place, the area was rescribed and epoxy putty was used to restore the raised detail. The gun gas exhausts are provided in a slightly wrong position by Tamiya and because HAD models provided PE parts for the re-enforcement plates around them I decided to change their position. The old exhausts were filled with CA and sanded down while on the new positions the kit's plastic was thinned from the inside and new ones were opened accordingly. Initially the PE parts for the re-enforcements were used however I could not get them to glue properly in place so off they went! Two new pieces were created by using Evergreen plasticard and glued in place. Also HAD provides two pieces for the grills that are found inside them which were used. Eduard's set provides some nice details for the ladder in order to be represented in open position so it was the next area I started working on. Unfortunately Eduard provides a simple improvement to the kit's piece so a few additions were deemed necessary to be included. I worked based on photos of the real aircraft while Kai Wolter's exceptional F-14 build has been of great assistance and inspiration as well. Eduard's guide was not followed. Instead the two main ladder parts (1 and 2 ) were used to sandwich a piece of Evergreen in order to increase the thickness of the ladder while the PE steps (parts 73) were not used. Evergreen was used to create the two steps and to add the various small details. Parts 12 and 13 were used to create the handle mechanism. So ... that's about it for this time. Thanks for your interest! Andreas

Thanks! If I could offer you only one piece of advice, it would be to use this reference site for details on the Tomcat, in this case a "D". It is exactly what you need when modifying and creating panel lines. Of note is the panel line detail at the back around the horizontal stabilizers and exhaust, which few modelers get right. F-14D "Christine" Restoration I also note that you are contemplating using the Tamiya F-16 exhaust nozzles, just like I did. I did so, because there really wasn't any other good GE F110 exhaust nozzles available at that time. You are much better off with the Aires set you already have. They are more accurate and detailed, while the Tamiya ones are a bit too small, just like the Wolfpack conversion set. The other thing that still comes to mind is all the raised panel line detail that needs to be removed and re-scribed at the rear. Although time consuming, it's not really all that hard to do. I lightly scored a panel line beside each raised one, sanded the raised one off, then deepened the scored panel line while aligning them all up. The panel lines on the horizontal stabilizers should be sanded off too, but only slightly. They are real, but barely noticeable on the real deal. Good luck. With the great aftermarket stuff you have already and what I've seen of your work so far, I just know that this will turn out terrific! Cheers, Chuck

Hi All! With the engine, cockpit and fuselage halves done, there´s only one thing left to do. It´s time getting the fuselage together! But, before that, there´s actually one, last thing to do on the Trumpy Hellcat. As we all know by now, the fuselage Is a bit ”fat” , but the Hellcat ain´t fat, It´s a lean, mean cat. The fuselage should be more of a triangular shape, sides should be ”slab”-shaped and the back should be more of a razor-back. You can see that I have sanded down the sides on the fuselage formers to a more correct shape (as much as I dared to). I also had to shave off a lot of plastic (2-3mm in total) from the top as they now overlapped quite a bit, to be able to close the top seam properly. A very simple fix that takes about 10min to do, but the model looks so much better now! Unfortunatly I forgot to take any pictures, sorry. Everything fitted as it should, excellent, even if I had to apply a bit of force in places. The new Resin wheels from BarracudaCast done; A small gap in front of the cockpit that I filled with some plasticard Test fitting of the cowl, now the prop is at a more correct distance from the cowl. Trumpeters R2800 is a kit in itself and a very good one too, but it is about 2mm too long between the cylinder rows, thus the propeller also will sit too far from the cowl. With this engine I have built six of these now, I have learnt that If I shave off 2mm of plastic between the cylinder banks, the props will sit correctly. We are getting close… More to come soon! Stefan

Hello Everybody, we're back to LSP after long time to announce that just a few weeks remain till our first kit release.

This one sat on the SOD for a while. I built this to test/experiment with the Vallejo Metal Color paints. After the near disaster i had with the P-38, i needed to iron these out. I used The Vallejo stuff for all NMF colors on the build, but using Tamiya primer. What i found is these paints work great!! I have no reason not to reach for these as long as i don't use their primer, i used Tamiya rattlecan primer on this. There is absolutely no accuracy as far as decal color scheme goes, this was only a test!! Don

Yes. In fact, AFV Club reboxed the Academy Sufa kit as a RSAF F-16D, with the major change being the decals and the deletion of some of the IDF specific sprues. https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10220190

THAT is hugely interesting. I helped pick the danish 219 out of the water some years ago, but noone has been able to establish a wnr for it. All of the machines listed in the LW documents are accounted for, so it had been speculated if it was a Heinkel test bird, also because it did not have a full armament aboard... perhaps it's one of those ?

Ok ... so ... back to models ... Today a LARGE parcel arrived from Model Hobbies in UK ... With a few kits inside First ... The rather decent Fw-190 ... "Sturmbock" edition ... I didn't get the Hasegawa version of this so it's the only Sturmbock in the stash. Then the (apparently) "better-than-Trumpeter" Me.262A ... we'll see ... Next ... another Mirage ... RAAF Decals - BUT different time period Decals are from 1983, whereas the Italeri kit I bought earlier has the 1966 markings ... and finally an F/A 18.F Super Hornet ... I need some RAAF markings for this one ... and some of that non-existent AM!!! ... Rog

Almost there. After ... several years of struggle, finally I can see the light. There were some difficult moments, when I removed the masking from the canopies... together with most of the paint from their framing. Did my best to make it look acceptable however, decided rather to avoid cleaning up all the work and starting it over again. Maybe it was a wrong decision but otherwise the project would probably have stalled for another year or so. Just some weathering and final touches ahead.

She's alive! Need probably just few hours to get her done, but how to find them? So many other kits started...

Today update.

It looks incredible

I totally agree with Chuck, the Prime Portal site with Christine, along with the DACO book were very helpful to me when I did my 1/18th scale F-14B conversion. I will revisit both when I start my 1/18th scale F-14D conversion as well. Steve "TOMCATS FOREVER, BABY...!"

Hi all! This is my bulld for this GB, a Grumman F6F-5(N) Hellcat from Trumpeter: Lots and lots of virgin plastic in the well-filled, sturdy box…. To be continued… Cheers! Stefan

I'm not good at posting WIPs as I go, but I thought this might be of benefit to anyone with one of Eduard's 1:32 Bf 109Es. When I started, I had a look at (among other things) Thierry Laurent's "Tweak List" on the LSP site ( https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=2924 ) which is, of course, generally applicable across the range. It mentions something I had already though of: if the engine is omitted to do a model with the cowlings closed, there is a big void which is potentially visible through the cooling slots in the cowlings. It is difficult to fit the engine and close the cowlings. But here's my solution. 1: Fit E24 & G16 as per the instructions, then fix G25 to E24. The position is approximately correct (I checked by dry-fitting the engine block etc). This puts something in the lower cooling vent. Assemble the basic engine block with the top panel and front portion: parts G27, G32, G8 and G24. Remove the top front portion of this assembly; you don't need the main block any more. Fix packing pieces of sprue to the sides of what's left of the block, so that this can be fitted inside the top cowling (A6). The wooden stirrer is attached using white glue as a handle for painting. If you're wondering why the cowling is a different colour, I messed up the original kit cowling. The replacement was "robbed" from an E-1 in the stash which is earmarked for an Alley Cat Bf 109C conversion. The plan is now to spray the whole lot suitable dark colours. The exhausts etc can now be fitted as per the instructions for a closed cowling. Note also that I've filed down the interior of the gun compartment (so that the cover for that will fit) and added a spreader bar as Thierry suggests to the cowling. Hope this is useful.

hello all , my last kit , another mustang .... (sorry ) : voila voila

Nice work, there! Stefan

HG or not, just like the BvR release, this allows us 'late to the party' to aquire these OOP kits without donating kidneys on ebay.

I would strongly have to disagree with that statement. I purchased my Artograph 1530 almost 10 years ago, and it's been by FAR and away the best modeling purchase I've made. It's super professionally built, comes with 3 different layers/types of removable and replaceable filters, it pumps enough air to get the paint fumes up and out my window about 6 feet away. The charcoal/fiber and cloth filters are easily replaced and cheap in a large roll too and it's big enough to hold most LSPs besides the huge multi engined bombers. Thing works phenomenally. And I paid about what it would cost for 3 LSPs too. Best decision I ever made.

I was thinking about this morning on the way into work...I think for me, the idea of how to pull off the all white finish and make it interesting is the challenge...give what could be a very dull and boring paint scheme some life.... haven't decided yet as I have way too many projects and one more won't help. Just my thoughts...not important. P

The Dragon kit is better all round in my view

Work continues on the other wing now. Once everything was dried and sanded back, I thought I'd attach the wings before slotting on all the other parts. Fit on both is again tight, perhaps too tight and it does well to shave a little off some of the mating surfaces to get a better fit. Still ti will require some work on the lower joint. But it is a Trumpeter kit so I was expecting the fit to be "good enough". There is actually a saying for that in Chinese industry that roughly translates to "close enough", which makes sense if you've ever built Trumpeter. Oh look, with a little bit of wiggling and perhaps selective words being said, the wing fits reasonably well. I haven't even looked at the weapons and pylons, there's probably more parts in those than there is in the aircraft itself.

Hi Matt, The serial number B9276 was created using the 4 mm wide strip from ‘Xtradecal’ white stripes (XPS2) and the black number/letters (X72157). The black fonts are not quite correct for that period, but are close enough. The serial number strip was cut to length then applied and sealed. Then each letter and number were cut out, with most of the carrier film cut away, then transferred wet to the strip, positioned then dried. The fin marking of ‘AMAºE’ and the fuselage names ‘Swallow’ were created using ‘Xtradecal’ white number/letters (X72158). Mike

Goering or not its a WNW D.V11 with a WW1 ace not interested in war criminal drivel there were plenty of those on both sides in WW2 and this is based on events long before then.

Hmmmm.......Tony?

Like a certain breakfast cereal character..?

Pretty exciting.....cant wait!!!!

Houston, we have a new nose!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! After much confoundment with creating wall thickness to be able to print, I finally have something physical to show you! Despite my best efforts, the printing software blatantly refused to print the "eyebrow" section above the windscreen. I checked it out on Rhino before and it seemed all good. Sometimes these things just do what they want! Amusingly, as soon as I detached this piece, it was more than happy to print it separately!!! Anyway two big questions.... 1) how did it turn out? and 2) did it make a difference to "the look?" Well here's the pictures. Note this is a trial run to see it I had the dimensions and shapes right. I'll go back now and add the windows, then the final print will be in the Photon I don't know about you guys, but I reckon it looks a lot more B-17 like to me! Already you can see the inclusion of the correct #3 shape is making all the heartache of the CAD work worthwhile Over the next few days I'll cut the other side out and then mock it up complete and next to my other unbuilt kit. But for now, I'm happy that I have a workable solution to fix the nose issue with minimal disturbance to the rest of the kit. There you go, it CAN be done! Cheers, Craig

......and will it go “GRRRRRR"!!!????

It will be a biplane this time...

Indeed. The old Revell 1/72 Fokker D.VII has been released over the years with Goering's aicraft as a decal option as well. I also seem to recall that there were murmurs of discontent from various quarters when WNW released the W.29 without including decals for Friedrich Christiansen's aircraft - and he turned out to be a Nazi war criminal too. So much discontent, in fact, that WNW went with his aircraft as the sole option for the W.29 in the Felixstowe Dualists set...

Eduard released Goerings Albatros years ago. Did anyone make a hue and cry back then?

Hi all, I've spent the last day or so applying the decals to the 'Swallow'. The PC12 upper surfaces and the CDL undersides were 'Aviattic' linen effect decals. The decals are supplied as A4 sheets and are not 'cookie cut', so each has to be templated and then cut. The white fin marking (AMA.E) and the name 'SWALLOW' of the fuselage sides were created, letter by letter, from 'Xtradecal' sheets. The specific serial number of B9276 was also created from number/leterrs and white strip from 'Xtradecal'. The biggest problem was the wing roundels, as the wing of the 'Swallow' had a wider wing chord than that of the 'Camel, therefore the 'Camel' decals were way too small. In the end I resorted to Cutting up and re-assembling decals from both the 'Wingnut Wings' Sopwith Pup (RNAS) and the SE5a, both of which I had as spares. For example the wing upper roundels were created from four separate cut decals. The colouring of the blue (lighter shade) on these roundels reflects that used towards the end of the conflict. Mike

Thanks guys. I've made some more progress.

If they’re going to go there, hopefully WNW will release Christiansen’s W.29.

Well folks. the end is dangerously close! This will likely be my last work in progress photo before she's complete. One wing is done, and the other will go under matte coat today. Weathering, little bits, and it'll be complete! She's looking like she'll be done for the IPMS Great Plains show on Saturday, Sept. 28th in Loveland, Colorado, USA. I'm looking forward to showing her off! If I am able to get her done this week, I will try to sneak into work next Monday to take some more professional photographs in our photography lab. 70887941_10103079334765662_8044854618812841984_o by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr Stay tuned! - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA

He wasn't that in WW1. I have little interest in his figure but I'm not opposed to seeing it modeled. He was the JG lead and had unique markings. I think your question would fall into that usual question of why model SS or Nazis in general? Granted it's not the same category of crime, but Randy Cunningham ended up in prison and his jet is probably the modeled USN F-4 in any scale. Add...Maybe also because he is so (in)famous is a reason why they chose him?

thanks for watching, did a foam base, the tank should really be blended into the base, maybe later (maybe not)

First but not last Batmobile in my little collection. It's a modification of toy. Batman is an addition to one of AMT models, The rest from scratch. Painting as usual, Tamiya, Gunze, Vallejo. Accessories is eduard and what else was lying around. Weathering is mainly Tamiya and Mig.

Okay, here you go The Dakota. Anyway, back to the Buccaneer. Some more progress has been made The 1/48 Airfix kit helps to see if I'm on par with the general shape. Nose fold detail.

Just finished my 1/48 Gladiator. For those of you who are interested the following aftermarket products were used in this build of the Eduard/Roden kit. Eduard PE set (in addition to the Eduard PE in the kit) My AIMS bracing wires PE My AIMS hatches and latches PE (for missing gun pod plates) SBS engine/cowl Quickboost gun pods Quickboost red fuselage nav light (unable to use wing tip lights as way over-size - perhaps designed for Merit kit) Master Browning 303 barrels. Rob Taurus Vac form canopy Finished in Mr Paint Silver with Exhaust/collector ring in Alclad Jet exhaust followed by Pale Burnt Metal. Figure and dog from ICM. Thanks.

So, the Aeromarine build has reached a major milestone... Maybe it doesn't look of much but I guarantee you it has been one of those moments, where I wasn't sure if all the work has been worth it and the parts would all fit together and line up correctly. Getting the engine mounts and the scratched struts to fit together with the upper wing. The instrument panel is in place... The radiators for the Liberty engines. Still the oil tanks aren't in place. A lot of pipes is also needed, but it's getting there... Cheers: Kent

Good evening, My name is Jonathan, and I'm also from beautiful Cape Town in South Africa Me in the front cockpit of SAAF Buccaneer #416 restoration project, I've been working on.

Hi guys, I'm John, from Cape Town, South Africa. Here's a picture of me and my my Boy (Ross, and he loves aircraft too) sitting in an Impala Mk.1. Cheers

Hi, I am LSP member couple months already and this is first time I am uploading my work here. I got this kit from my wife back in 2000 and since then it stayed in stash as I was away from hobby for the same time. This is Tamiya's kit representing F-4C of 497th TFS based in Ubon, Thailand around 1967. Aircraft was originally deployed to Vietnam in Navy standard colors Light Gull Grey FS16440 and White FS17875. After some time original grey Phantoms were repainted in local paintshops with SEA camouflage on top, while bottom remained in original Navy White FS17875. As painting conditions were not ideal, Phantoms were prone to heavy chipping and there were original large insignias, corogard and letters showing through SEA camouflage colors. I used following extras during build: Avionix cockpit (nightmare to fit...) GT Resin: Seamless intakes, center 600 gal tank, outer USAF pylons Eduard: etched interior set, exhaust, masks, Sidewinders, Sparrows, TER, MER Videoaviation: BLU-27 Napalm fIre bombs MB MK.5 seats were in stash for 17 years and I do not remember what make are they... I used original Tamiya insignias, all letters and night owl are homemade masks... Paints: Mr Paint colors and Flory washes Thanks and regards,

i also did the unhitching beam and added some lead pencil to the tracks

hello fellows Had some great fun with this kit, lots of firsts for me and my new airbrush, did some colour modulation, some free hand camo which I'm not sure is good enough for a plane but looks good on a dirty tank Mix of German grey and sea grey Modulation but too much maybe Free hand camo Playing with some rust mixes Tracks painted and trial fitted I recon i should frame this a sell it for fortune Up next is waiting for the masking set for the German markings, weathering the un-hitching beam, then full dirt and rusting thanks