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airscale 3D hangar - Looong term project 1/32 Do17Z


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Hi Peter - yes that was fast.  The props look really good, and I am pretty sure i know how you did them.  ;)


The nacelles look great.  And it appears you were able to minimize control points.  I just finished episode eight of the 14-episode "Primary Surfacing" class (can be found on YouTube), where I believe I am learning some critical tips on how to surface and not get yourself into trouble (which I have done many times).    It is taught in Rhino by a guy whose voice I am very tired of, but I will persist.  Fairly soon I will test it out on the P-51 smiley face nose intake - if I can do that I can do anything (surfacing anyway).   


I too am trying to decide how to 3D print an entire model (probably a Mustang), only in 1/18.  Your Dornier might be just about as large as that!  Good luck and we should compare notes!  Especially on the transparencies.

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2 hours ago, Shawn M said:

I think this may be the "future" of our hobby


Hi Shawn - IMO it has a ways to go.  This opinion after I have had a couple of months experience with my new printer.  First of all 3D print does not lend itself to mass production.  The process is painstakingly slow, the machine printing off very thin layers one layer at a time, with several seconds of exposure time, then more time to lift up, hover, come back down, and get set for the next layer.  For large parts with height (e.g. more layers) it can take literally hours upon hours to complete.  Mass production would involve more than one printer, and large printers with beds that can accommodate more than one part.  I would say limited production at best.  Also, the many many support columns required to make a good complex part all tend to leave pimple marks when trimming them.  To me that is an issue worth mentioning - more serious than sprues and sink marks.  So any part can be expected to require a bit of putty or CA work.  It is at the very least annoying, and at worst can seriously degrade the quality of the part.  There are also some thickness limitations - under a critical thickness (a half mm or so), brittleness and fragility become issues.  Some resins are better or worse than others, but brittleness is a thing with 3D print.  I suppose that can also be true of other materials and processes - but you can get polystyrene plastic pretty thin and still have a good part.  And keep in mind that common plastic glues do not work with resin.  With time, I would hope 3D printing technology will improve more and more, and maybe it will indeed become the future in modeling.


However - as Peter says - things that do not currently exist can be made to exist!    



Edited by JayW
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Looks like some pretty good "playing around" if you ask me, Peter!!


I understand what you mean, though. It's kind of funny how making a computer model of something always makes it look more complete and accurate than it may actually be. We deal with that in the architecture world all the time. Using current 3D modeling software always fools the clients into thinking that the design is "almost done" because it looks so crisp and thorough, even though it's not even close yet!!


So you're going to be done next week, right?



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I have the Tigger vac which John did as a bit of a favour. It was pulled from an old mold with a few bits missing here and there. I’d be very keen to get a set of your engines and nacelles, as well as the undercarriage and props. I have a full set of transparencies if they’re of any use. 


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