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1/18 Curtiss P40C - Finished :)


airscale

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evening folks :)

 

very kind of you all :)

 

On 2/5/2023 at 5:17 PM, Captain Boogaloo said:

Is it not time to have a gathering of Peter's builds in one section of the forum?

 

Captain Boogaloo

 

I am very humbled by this comment Captain B, but there is no way I would want that. There are many more super talented people on here and I learn from them and everyone who contributes. What I love about this place is the blend of everyone from first timers to the best on the planet, so thank you, but with the greatest respect, no thank you :)

 

 

 

On 2/5/2023 at 5:20 PM, scvrobeson said:

It's just hard to find the words after each update. You find new ways to impress and push the medium forward Peter, and you make working in metal look better than working with paint and plastic.

 

 

 

Matt 

 

Hey Matt, thanks for stopping by - I actually much prefer metal than plastic, I watch people like Oliver (Shark 64) and just gape at what he can do with such precision and finesse - for me I find working with plastic much harder - i am always rounding corners, can't cut a straight line and generally find it unforgiving. Metal on the other hand takes a lot more work to mess it up :)

 

 

6 hours ago, JayW said:

Wow Peter, just like everyone else, I'm floored by the aluminum work.  It occurs to me that this P-40 might have been your biggest skinning challenge yet?  

 

You got it Jay - this is definately the hardest skinning so far - it's really quiet a curvy airframe :)

 

Had a day off today and with Mrs airscale out & about, I got to start another part - I settled on the rudder as it makes a change from skinning..

 

..started by creating a drawing from the plans with profiles & rib sections - although the GA drawing for the ribs is really washed out so I couldn't make much of it out

 

..this was stuck to brass sheet with Pritt Stick- I like brass as it keeps its shape when working and gets a really nice sharp trailing edge

 

..you can see on the drawing there is a torque rod right the way through the lower leading edge which also needs to be factored in..

 

T4vynA.jpg

 

..it's easy to cut out the shape with a dremel & slitting disc cutting down into a sheet of balsa..

 

D4gJIP.jpg

 

..all of the rib positions etc were transferred from the drawing to the blank

 

..you can also see the trim tab has been largely cut out, but not removed, and the little hole at the top where a big rudder horn connects from the fin..

 

HuJ4pE.jpg

 

..the torque tube was added by soldering in a tube (with brass end caps to stop the tube flooding) and then cutting out the gaps afterwards..

 

LAL2Ph.jpg

 

..the known rib sizes and profiles I could determine were added from brass sheet..

 

RqIaPl.jpg

 

..all the structure was added from plastic stock and a blob of P38 filler.. the trim tab must be done too so it can just be broken away later with exactly the right profile..

 

bFnEki.jpg

 

..the structure is then shaped with a sander and files until the profiles are hit..

 

D6RVtv.jpg

 

..a shot of primer helps get a good feel for how it is shaping up..

 

B74KKs.jpg

 

T4gz5q.jpg

 

Qyzqng.jpg

 

tzSRvM.jpg

 

..next up, skinning it with thin plastic sheet, scored with a biro at the rib positions to get a light catenary effect

 

TTFN

Peter

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6 hours ago, airscale said:

next up, skinning it with thin plastic sheet, scored with a biro at the rib positions to get a light catenary effect

Dagumn Peter. I honestly had to google that phrase.

I’m gobsmacked and now I’m even having to translate English.

Even your scribing on the brass is better than most of my scribing attempts on a finished product… Epic update as always. Between you and Pig, I’m bringing us Peters down!

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thank you chaps :)

 

..to conclude the obvious cliffhangar that was making the rudder core, but saving the skinning - I did that today...

 

..first the drawing was amended to show where the rib score lines were and the visible rivet heads under the fabric - this was then stuck to thin plastic card - I guess it's 0.10 or 0.15 slaters or plastruct..

 

cWAXvv.jpg

 

..these black lines were then run over with a biro and the rivets a pin in a pin vise..

 

..the leading edges were rolled around a tube to make them curve and enough fat left on them to roll around it..

 

 

xLpuJR.jpg

 

..then a thin layer of evo stick contact cement on all surfaces - no blobs or it melts the thin plastic..

 

FdlAzB.jpg

 

..and the skin is laid down & trimmed at the centreline to meet the other side..

 

EbtGAl.jpg

 

..i plunge moulded the bottom cap as this is metal and added the rivets, then the edges were sanded & blended..

 

8ZCiVn.jpg

 

..the subtle effect of the scoring on the reverse side to make it look like fabric can be seen here.. no need for fabric effect as when the real ones are doped and painted these surfaces are generally smooth..

 

qWPTNP.jpg

 

xtNiGJ.jpg

 

..I have some decal sheet on order and will do all the rib tapes & edges with that - it needs to be able to take a lot of masking tape though for the red and white stripes so we will see how it holds up..

 

TTFN

Peter

 

 

 

 

 

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A very beautiful rudder Peter.  Man.  I smell trouble masking over decal.  Have you done it before?  Thankfully on my F4U, I don't have to mask over the decal strips.  Makes me wonder if painting instead of decals is better.  A couple of coats ought to be as thick as a decal.....

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