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KUROK

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Everything posted by KUROK

  1. KUROK
    For years I have used the classic Robart paint shaker. It was adequate. Last year, Barbatos Rex on YouTube reviewed this product and I decided to try it. It is more of a circular/vortex action versus shaking. At about $100 US it is pricey...but I can recommend it. Several old bottles I had thought were gone...it restored them to smooth consistency! Barbatos Rex review hotlink: Barbatos Rex review Here is another video review: YouTube review
  2. KUROK
    Riding along. (although I should be at my bench, working on kit)
  3. KUROK
    Gorgeous job and I love this colorful scheme on the "Butcher Bird"!
  4. KUROK
    Stuck doing some heap big filler work at all four corners of the wing/fuselage joint. Taking my time and trying to do a little bit each day. Paint is right around the corner and as of today, I have a proper spray booth.
  5. KUROK
    Superb build.
  6. KUROK
    One of the guys at my local HobbyTown said that when Hasegawa last did a release, it was sold out rapidly. I cannot remember what he said was the time span but it may have been only days. That may have been the Kittyhawk III version that had all the parts to do E, long-tail-K, M, and N-1. I hope Eduart/Eduard do another run.
  7. KUROK
    Looking good, Tolga. I'm enjoying the ride along here.
  8. KUROK
    Great project and I'm following!
  9. KUROK
    Gorgeous results!!!
  10. KUROK
    Totally exciting project! The Raptor is near and dear to my heart...
  11. KUROK
    Wow, Tolga, that looks very SHARP! Well done!
  12. KUROK
    ...Thanks Mal_Belford! Perhaps posting updates is one way to keep me going at a steady rate and keep that MOJO. Got the ol' airbrush going on some small parts...probably avoiding the big paint job in my own way. The drop tank got sprayed with craft acrylic. Why? The Folk Art brand matte colors airbrush well for me, as well as model paint. It also dries tight hiding no details as you'd expect from acrylic. I can brush on a coat of Future and it will be tough enough for some weathering. This thing will look well used. This color is a little lighter than Neutral Gray and I did that with the idea that this shows the drop tank came from a different government contractor...which is true. BTW, I got this Dove Gray paint for a Adam West Batman model that I will get to, one day... Also used some of this now extinct MM paint for the Eduard resin exhausts. Since it is precious, I spray in small quantity. My Grex has no color cup...so I airbrush "gangster style".
  13. KUROK
    Aye - Yi - Yi !!!!
  14. KUROK
    Thanks! I'm hoping to push this one over the finish line soon. It's been two years since the group build it started with. I had a many-month "slump" while I had a loss of project Mojo.
  15. KUROK
    I will try. This is my first time using masks of this complexity! It will be an adventure for sure.
  16. KUROK
    Getting closer to paint, gents. I have the wing attached and am doing the body work, filling. You can see I used a glass rod to hold the wing arrow-straight while the glue set up. Clamping pad were donated from an old drink koozie...you know, the soft foam ones from the 80s-90s. The wing tops were attached first. Hasegawa built in a glue weep area but I had the foresight to shim it prior to clamping. Worked out.
  17. KUROK
    I removed this thick, molded detail from the forward canopy part and replaced it with styrene card. It's a little detail I wanted to improve....at least to get to scale thickness. I'm not sure why Curtiss added this to the Kittyhawks. Perhaps rain or exhaust was getting into the interior at that corner? I can see that, when doing rolling maneuvers, exhaust would go right over that corner of the sliding canopy.
  18. KUROK
    Wow! Coooooool !!!!
  19. KUROK
    I did some searching on Google and the answer is right at LSP. Radu had the answer. The vinyl masks do not shrink over time, it is the backing paper as it absorbs moisture that changes shape.
  20. KUROK
    Some progress. I put a metal rod from a paper clip into the radio mast. It was sealed in with CA and sanded flush. Hasegawa indicated the mast goes dead center but references show it is just off-center to starboard. So I used my drill press to make a perfectly straight hole for it. Now it will be true and strong. Now a question. Painting is not too far away now. I plan to use the Montex masks to paint the Parrot face. Yeah...I should just use decals but I do it the hard way sometimes. So I have no experience with these. For starters, why do they appear to have shrunk or otherwise slid around??? Also, is the large "step 1" piece to be put on top of the masks to help transfer it all off the sheet onto the model? It seems that is the only way to get the thin parts for the "black" transferred to the nose. Just having trouble interpreting what they want me to do... Edit: I'm getting some clear "transfer paper" to move the mask onto the model. It was not included in the Montex set.
  21. KUROK
    Very nice work!
  22. KUROK
    I really have an affinity for those 1/72 Hasegawa Kittyhawk kits. I built three of them and have about that many in the stash. You did a nice job on this one!!! The recent Special Hobby Kittyhawks are really very good! Also, a resin cockpit upgrade I got for the old Hasegawa kit actually fit very well in the Special Hobby kit.
  23. KUROK
    Sublime build! I have been eyeing that Airfix kit and your build makes me want to do one!
  24. KUROK
    Very nice!
  25. KUROK
    It just keeps getting better. Have safe travels... p.s. I have a logistics question. I see that you used the Tamiya grey surfacer in small amounts during the gap sealing phase. Did you have to strip/clean your airbrush each time? What do you do for that just flush with some lacquer thinner? It seems so much work for me when I use surfacer in the airbrush...in small shots. Thanks.
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