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Everything posted by KUROK

  1. Actually your chipping looks fine if the rest of the aircraft gets weathered too. The other areas look too clean that's why it stands out so much.
  2. If you need dimensions on any of the cockpit panels let me know. DM me.
  3. CB Model Products made it. Not sure if it is around anymore tho...
  4. I was able to sand and repaint the messed up areas. These things happen. I was in a hurry and as they say "haste makes waste"! So I found some Aussie Decals for the RAAF roundels. They went down ok but with some of the white flaking off. Not too hard to touch up but I had some Micro liquid decal film on hand, but didn't think to use it. Wish I had done that after the first roundel flaked... I'm getting old. One bit of good news: The 40 year old MicroScale decals went down perfectly! Way to go MicroScale!!!!! You can barely see the Tamiya "dark grey" panel line accent product. It's subtle and I liked using it. You can see it more on the lower surface grey. Here it is in the landing gear alignment step. I bought a special tool for this but it's worth it as I am adamant about having perfectly aligned LG legs. This is attempt number two. I discovered they were raked too far forward last night and fortunately, the clear Gorilla glue was soft enough for me to pull them out for a second try as you see here.
  5. Beautiful paint job. Looks real! They don't get much better that this!
  6. I want. I want!!! Take my money!
  7. Sweet! Yes, I'd like a copy of your Duxford photos for reference if possible. One comment: The landing gear fairing on the inboard side, there is no hard edge as it comes to the wheel well. It tapers all the way down to the wing by the time it gets to the wheel well hole.
  8. KUROK


    Nice job on that one!
  9. Well... I had some time recently and was getting to the home stretch. After struggling with Mission Models primer clogging my airbrush, I had finally figured out how to thin it and got a layer of black primer down. Then came underside grey which was a local brand (Folk Art) of craft acrylic that airbrushes really well. Model Master Acryl medium green was added on top around wing and control surface edges. Masking was a chore but after that I got a good coat of Mission Models OD. It was looking good! I decided to paint my own RAAF insignia so I could get the size exact to my liking. I had used Folk Art for the white and another craft acrylic for the blue (darkened with Vallejo). This other brand of craft acrylic was a little difficult to airbrush but would atomize if correct pressure employed. So it was a bad session for sure. The masking of the roundels was time consuming and the painters tape I used was the correct type (sensitive surface) but due to its age it was a bit too sticky. Do you guys have any advice? Seems I should have laid down a protective layer of Future to help with pull up. . I don't want to strip the whole thing. Perhaps just the wings from the guns outboard? And the fuselage around the bad spots.
  10. LOL! What is your favorite color? Airbrushing Future smoothly has been my Grail for quite some time. Although other clear coats for models are more available I never (almost) gave up seeking the Grail. Now that I have the "White whale"...I may be able to move on now to another clear gloss...
  11. Hi, I used it as a mix with the Future. My first experiment was about 30-40% Liquitex. John S. says he got good results with only 10-20%
  12. I had tried everything I could think of over the last several years to get Future/Pledge to airbrush consistently smooth. My original reference was the Swanny's Models article all about it. Sadly, the link seems to be defunct today: https://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html I tried Isopropyl Alcohol, Windshield washer fluid, distilled water, Simple Green, and maybe even Mr Color leveling thinner. All of them gave inconsistent results. The results were sometimes rough/pebbly and sometimes it would crawl and pool up on me. So, recently, I swore I would stop trying and use clear coats made for models going forward....but I'm a cheapskate! I tried one more time! I used this flow aid at about 30-40% ratio and it airbrushed/atomized well. The result was really smooth and nice...smelled good too! I'll let you know if the results are repeatable but I'm encouraged to try again. I bought this stuff at a craft store, Michael's.
  13. Thanks denders, I think you are right! My latest theory about shaking it too hard prior to mixing MM thinner proved wrong. I thought I was introducing air bubbles and this causes the MM thinner to make it set up way too fast. It took me two complete tear downs of my Iwata Neo to get all the sludge out. I tried the Createx 4011 with the black primer and am happy to report no congealing inside the airbrush! It took a while to dry but that's not an issue for me. Some have said 4011 is same as MM thinner; but they do smell different.... with the 4011 having almost no odor at all. p.s. Next experment: Use black primer and 4011 again but use a couple extra drops of MM thinner just to speed up curing/drying. Who knows???
  14. I have one of those. It was the first airbrush I bought as a young man back in the early 80s. it might be 40 years old. I think it cost me $25. I recently dug mine out and have cleaned it. I want to see how it handles craft store acrylic paint. Seems like this pic yours has the "H" heavy duty tip?
  15. Hi, Awesome work. One comment: The wheel well walls are not round cylinders like a spitfire. It's more a of a rectangular space under the round hole.
  16. KUROK


    Yep! That was another nice Hasegawa sprue boxing from Eduard!
  17. KUROK


    Eduard has re-popped the P-40 a couple years ago. Hope they do it again. They do a great job with that....great decals, resin, photoetch...
  18. You are right about the windscreen. They made a mistake on the early E boxings and have extra framing on the port side which didn't happen until the P-40M.
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