scvrobeson Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Excellent paint work, but I expect nothing less. Those AK shades really do look good, I found the Gunze 81 to a be a little too bright. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 (edited) 15 hours ago, reserve_22 said: The ,,onion"and engine inside are ,,off white" protective color same as on BMW003 restoration He162 I was fortunate enough to spend some time in very close contact with a number of Me 262 in a number of museums, some restored/repainted, some relatively untouched. I was also fortunate enough to spend some time on the Ho 229 in NASM, which is untouched and in as far as I know the engines have never been fired. I also had the chance to study very closely a Klimov RD-10 at the Military Museum in Bucharest. They all looked quite metallic with a small amount of corrosion. Radu Later edit: I also spent some time in and around the Ar 234 in NASM and the "onions" of those engines feature a white coating. I will have a look at the restoration files of that particular engine and see if there is any mention of what they are coated with. Further later edit: Photos in the restoration files of the NASM Ar 234 show that the "onions" were quite burned and corroded when the restoration started. There is also a photo taken by Junkers factory, possibly during an evaluation, showing an "onion" with the white coating noticeably burned off. I suspect that the white coating was "ablative", intended to wear away gradually. I cannot post these photos, they belong to NASM and cannot be shared without their permission. Edited January 17, 2021 by Radub scvrobeson, Greg W, TAG and 2 others 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 The top and bottom are progressing at different rates, which I think is ok until I get to the transitions like the sides of the engine nacelles. I've decided to do the majority of the markings and decal work on the bottom at this stage. The wing crosses are masks from the Silhouette Portrait based on scans of the kit decals. The stencil decals from the kit are used. They are very fine and feature legible text, even for the very small decals. The only thing I don't like about the decals is the flat finish... I prefer gloss or satin. I used Microset to dampen the area of application and once position was finalized, I rolled a clean cotton swab over the decal. Instead of Microsol, I used Walters Solvaset to soften the decal and help it conform into place. Some of the stencils are at the corners of control surfaces, so multiple applications of Solvaset were used and finally a sharp knife run along all of the depressions. I'll give this a few hours to dry and then shoot the decals with a light gloss coat to seal them. Victor K2, dodgem37, Kais and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 That underside profile, especially in black, makes the Me-262 look so incredibly good. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 Thanks Matt! The black will fade somewhat with the upcoming weathering but that will come later. I'm moving towards applying the Light Blue RLM 76 mottle over the green so... Let's do the red "10" markings! One of the first things that I do when I get a new kit is to scan the decal sheet. The decal sheet for this build was used to create custom masks for the major markings including the "10". Since the numbers have a thin white border, masking is a little bit trickier than single color markings. First, I transfer the entire mask onto the model using tape to hold the different components together. This is necessary since there is a free-floating oval within the "0". The Oramask 810 material is translucent and really helps facilitate the proper positioning and alignment of the marking. Leaving the oval in place, the other components of the mask are carefully removed and saved for later use. The first color, which will be the white for the outline, is now ready to be sprayed. Make sure that the edges of the mask are uniformly flat on the surface. Before I spray the white, I repeat these steps for the starboard side. Upon removal of the inner mask components for that side, a tiny sliver of backing paper got caught on the mask's adhesive. Poking it out stretched the skinny part of the mask a bit... you can see the kink on top of the "0". I could possibly make this work but I thought it would be prudent to cut an identical mask just to avoid any potential issues. The white is sprayed and allowed to dry for a few hours before moving on. The thin border masks are then carefully put into place. This is the most fiddly part of this operation and it pays to make sure that these thin masks butt up nice and tight to the masks that are already in place. Even with magnification, it is difficult to see the fine gaps that might allow some paint to seep through. To prevent this, additional masking is recommended. You can used bits of tape but for this example, I chose to use a liquid mask. It looks sloppy but I've been careful to make sure that the liquid mask stays away from the mask edges. The red is sprayed on. I like to use thin mixes to minimize the paint build-up and resultant edge that might develop with thicker paint. The masks are pulled off to reveal the completed red "10" markings. There were a couple of small spots of paint lift but very minor... a very acceptable result. The lifted paint spots are sprayed with Neutral Grey first, which helps blend in the repair, and then sprayed with the camo color. TenSeven, LSP_Kevin, Landrotten Highlander and 19 others 20 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Key word I noticed here is 'or' in front of the underlined text which, in my opinion, would allow for considerable variation 'after some hours of operation'. Paul in Napier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 A short pause after I've applied the fuel stencil decals. I think I can start on the mottle work soon. Scotsman, levier, Paul in Napier and 25 others 27 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Looking the business, John! Kev Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Flawless work John, the effort you put on to the awful fit of the nose parts has really paid if!! Regards. Andy Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Great work so far, John. I like the number "10" very much. If still needed, here are some photos I took in NASM. Horten 229 (selfie , but I cropped my face). This is unrestored and the engine look used. It is possible that the engines fitted to this Horten were "second hand and used" engines put in place just for construction/clearance/balance purposes because in as far as I know this aircraft never flew. Restored Ar 234. This is in "brand new" pristine condition. It seems to me that brand new engines feature a white coating, which wears off with use. HTH Radu Greg W, Uncarina, Landrotten Highlander and 6 others 6 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 Thanks guys! Taking some baby steps toward the next painting phase, which will be the Light Blue RLM 76 mottle over the greens. I've decided to use Mr Hobby Aqueous RLM 76 mixed with white for this shade since it sprays very well. Here are a few of the smaller components with the light blue... F-4Phanwell, Victor K2, LSP_Kevin and 13 others 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeA Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Beautiful work! Really shows off the detail. Thunnus and Rockie Yarwood 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Molitor Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 This current Me 262 build is going to look awesome, John. Just like all the rest. Found this picture for the gang and hoping not to interfere in any way with the great build tread. The white'ish exhaust cone, The lowered flaps, Taped over vertical seams with horizontal rivets showing! The whole conundrum going on here! LOL.... What is this world coming too? Carry on and more pictures when available. Lovely efforts going on here. Rockie Yarwood, scvrobeson, Thunnus and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fab Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 12 hours ago, Radub said: Great work so far, John. I like the number "10" very much. If still needed, here are some photos I took in NASM. Horten 229 (selfie , but I cropped my face). This is unrestored and the engine look used. It is possible that the engines fitted to this Horten were "second hand and used" engines put in place just for construction/clearance/balance purposes because in as far as I know this aircraft never flew. Restored Ar 234. This is in "brand new" pristine condition. It seems to me that brand new engines feature a white coating, which wears off with use. HTH Radu Hye! After more or less 70 years exposed well or bad conditions of storage... Of course, I am speaking about the "onions"...not about Radub... Amities Fab Radub, Landrotten Highlander, Rockie Yarwood and 4 others 3 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockie Yarwood Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 7 hours ago, reserve_22 said: Here we give all photos that we found - ebay ....45 page of inspiraton Thank you. That is a wonderful set of photos! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now