Border 1/35 Fw 190A-6 Nowotny Double Chevron

[Thunnus]

The Hien build is complete and I want to start a new project.  The Infinity D3A1 build is being shelved for the time being.  It's in good shape but I don't have the will to complete the rivet removal process at the moment.  I posted the contents of the Laminar Flow Design XIVe conversion for the Tamiya Spitfire XVIe kit but I'm a little unsure about the specifics of the different XIVe variants and l want to follow BloorwestSIR's build to educate myself before I start mine.  And I just received the Italeri Mc.202 Folgore kit.  It looks like a fun and interesting kit but there is already an excellent Folgore build just started by Quang and I don't want to be redundant.

 

So I want to start something that I don't have to do as much brain work on... I've decided on the Border 1/35 Focke-Wulf (aka Messerschmitt) Fw190A-6.  It's about as close to a quick, out-of-box build that I can get being in a unique scale for aircraft (not much aftermarket available).  Quang has already posted an excellent WIP that I can (and will) use as a reference. I was really intrigued by this model when I saw the sprue shots and I've always liked this scheme...

 

Walter Nowotny's Fw 190A-5 Double Chevron Werk Number 410004

 

 

I've seen some references to this aircraft as an A-6.  Regardless of what this aircraft actually was, I am going to take a certain track, based on the kit plastic, and not be too hung up on complete accuracy.

 

Let's take a look at the sprues. A sprue tour is as educational to me as it is to others... it really helps me get acquainted with the kit parts.  First up is the wing sprue.

 

Like I said, I was interested in this kit when I first saw the sprue shots.  I was really impressed with the crispness of the moldings.  And that's been verified now that I have the kit in hand.  Very impressive molding.

 

 

Note the underwing gun bulges that are specific to the A-6 variant.  If you look at the photos of Nowotny's machine, there is no evidence of these outboard guns.  The A-5 outer gun panels are a little different than the A-6 but still feature bulges, which I do not see in the photograph of Double Chevron.

 

 

This sprue, C, holds the fuselage halves.

 

 

Panel lines are recessed and rivets have been molded, indicating kindship with its Trumpeter and Hobby Boss brethren.  However, the rivet detail is noticeably finer than what I found on the Trumpeter P-47D kit.

 

 

Molding is super crisp throughout, with super sharp edges everywhere, which will make painting that much easier

 

 

The engine cowling has molded detail on both the outer and inner surfaces.

 

 

The landing gear legs look good.  The Border plastic is on the softer side so I hope that these skinny legs will be sturdy enough.

 

 

Sprue G has cockpit components and some exterior stuff like the one-piece prop.

 

 

Great detail on the prop hub!

 

 

Details on the cockpit tub are excellent too.

 

 

I really like how Border molded the upper instrument panel.

 

 

Better than the noticeably softer version that Zoukei Mura provide on their 1/32 Ta152 kits.

 

 

To be continued...

 

[Troy Molitor]

Oh yes.   Thank you.  

[Thunnus]

Two copies of Sprue D are provided.

 

 

I love the extra detailing on the engine parts.

 

 

Only one style of wheel/tire is provided.

 

 

Due to the slide molding technique used, the gun barrels are round in cross-section and have hollowed out ends.

 

 

Sprue H has most of the engine components.

 

 

The BMW 801D is beautifully rendered.

 

 

Unlike previous Fw 190A kits, there is considerable engine detail behind the cylinders.  

 

 

Another example of using slide molding to add hollow tips to the exhausts.

 

 

The clear parts are thankfully clear, which didn't seem to be the case on some early production samples.

 

[Thunnus]

With the sprue tour out of the way, I can show you what I've started on.  As I mentioned before, Nowtony's Double Chevron does not appear to have the outer guns.  And I don't see any indication of the bulges that would be associated with either the A-5 or A-6 wing.  The Border kit has the outer guns with the A-6 type covers with bulges on the wing bottom.

 

 

My approach, right or wrong, will be to remove the outer gun positions, flattening both the wing panel and the barrel fairing on the leading edge.  Under the assumption that the A-6 panel with bulge and barrel opening were replaced with a flat panels. So first, I'm going to fill in the recesses with putty.  I couldn't find Milliput at my local hobby store so I opted for Apoxie Sculpt, which is a similar 2-part epoxy.

 

 

The depressions for the wing bulge and leading edge fairing were filled from the inside with putty. Once this is dry, I will begin grinding the bulge and fairing down.  Of particular note on these photos is the visible grain of the plastic.  The surface of the parts has a subtle but distinct pebbly grain to it.  It is not perfectly smooth.  I don't think this will be an issue after a few coats of paint but it's worth noting.

 

 

I've also started on the BMW 801 engine by gluing the cylinder bank halves together.  At this point, I am wondering if I should add ignition wiring.  The spark plug leads on the fronts of the cylinders are tiny.  Because of the tight cowling and the cooling fan, the view of the engine from the front is virtually non-existent.

 

[quang]

Haha, an obvious feeling of déjà vu although it seems like it happened a long time ago in a far, far away galaxy…

In any case, I’m a keen follower because there’s always something to learn from the fabulous Thunnus WIPs.

[scvrobeson]

You certainly never let the grass grow under your feet John.  Happy to see you already on to your next project.

 

 

Stay safe down there with the Tropical Cyclone taking aim at us in California.

 

 

Matt 

[Thunnus]

15 hours ago, quang said:

Haha, an obvious feeling of déjà vu although it seems like it happened a long time ago in a far, far away galaxy…

In any case, I’m a keen follower because there’s always something to learn from the fabulous Thunnus WIPs.

Yes, I'm sure this all looks familiar to you, Quang!  Hopefully mine will turn out half as good as your effort.  Your weathering is always so good.

 

 

9 hours ago, scvrobeson said:

You certainly never let the grass grow under your feet John.  Happy to see you already on to your next project.

 

 

Stay safe down there with the Tropical Cyclone taking aim at us in California.

 

 

Matt 

Too many new kits arrived at the same time, giving me a bit of a conundrum on which to start.  This one, in many ways, will be the simplest so it's the one that I chose.  Weather is starting to turn and I've got a fishing trip scheduled for tomorrow... will have to bring a rain jacket!

 

After the Apoxie Sculpt has cured, I can start grinding down the gun opening fairing and gun panel bulge using a rotary tool and power sander.

 

 

I took it nice and slow and tried to be careful but still managed to gouge out a small area behind the gun fairing inadvertently.

 

 

So I had to fill that area with Black CA, sand and re-scribe.

 

 

For this type of work, it helps to have the right tools.  The David Union D300 rotary tool quickens the grinding process and the D400 sander helps keep the work surface nice and flat.

 

 

Here are the two wing gun positions after the grinding/sanding process.

 

 

A light spray of Mr Primer Surfacer 1000 to check my work.

 

 

I can't say that this is accurate but it at least fits what I see in the photos of Double Chevron.

[LSP_Kevin]

Nicely done, John!

 

Kev

[scvrobeson]

Great start to the conversion work. Enjoy the fishing trip, hope you avoid the worst of the weather

 

 

 

Matt 

[MikeMaben]

Thanks for the sprue tour John. That is one fine looking kit. Have fun.

[Thunnus]

Thanks guys! For those that are curious, here is a comparison between the 1/32 Hasegawa 190 wing and the 1/35 Border wing...

 

 

Continuing my work on the engines, I've decided deviate from the kit instructions and mount the exhaust collector stubs onto the exhaust collector ring instead of on the back of the cylinder heads.  This will make painting easier and I can address the glue joint.  Once the individual stubs are glued onto the collector ring and glue joint is still pliable, I mount the ring onto the cylinders to ensure that they fit together and let the glue dry like this.

 

 

Pay attention to these small parts that go on each cylinder head.  They look the same on the exterior but the backs are different to account for half being mounted on the front cylinders and the other half on the rear cylinders.

 

 

 

Here is the one-piece prop.  The hub is detailed very nicely.  I thinned the prop blades, primarily from the back side .

 

 

Without putting any pressure on it, the prop shaft broke off.  I'm guessing was under stress during shipping?

 

 

I re-attached it using CA glue and a short section of brass tube for strength.

 

 

Here are the engine parts minus the exhaust piping.  I've glued together as many subcomponents as possible without getting in the way of painting.

 

 

I'm going to try and wire the engine so I've drilled small holes into the ignition harness tubing.

 

 

The tiny nibs at the spark locations have been cut off, drilled out and replaced with Anyz replacements for the front cylinders.  These are 1/32 scale parts but close enough.  I just drilled holes in the rear cylinders because they won't be visible.  Actually... I don't think the front cylinders will be visible either once the cooling fan and prop is mounted.

 

 

Here is a dry-fit of engine parts, again without the exhausts.  Amazing... I'm actually shocked at the amount of detail Border has been able to cram into an injection-molded radial engine, without resin or PE.

 

[quang]

1 hour ago, Thunnus said:

I'm actually shocked at the amount of detail Border has been able to cram into an injection-molded radial engine, without resin or PE.

Living proof that you don’t necessarily need PE or resin to make a good model. Good show and great photos, John!

[shadowmare]

Engine is outstanding. But for me their 1:35 models fits rather for diorama, so their idea of making Kate with Akagi bridge is a good thing.

[Rocat]

Thank you for the sprue tour. The very visible ID letter on the sprues is a nice touch. I'm following.

[BlackCanopy]

I foresee "The Most Beautifully, Accurately Painted BMW 801 Scale Model, Ever", (Thunnus style), in this theatre, very soon, just to be completely hidden from sight under closed cowlings forever.

 

You still prefer your models with clean, unbroken lines, don't you, John? You wouldn't stray from that principle, wouldn't you, just for once? Ooohh, It's going to be a tragedy... ;-)

 

Cheers, Joerg