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HK Lanc review


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44 minutes ago, Gloucester Nige said:

 

That's what i meant Ray, little tabs all around the periphery to avoid EPM's onthe parts.

Not trying to start something but you seem to be saying modern kits shouldn’t have ejector pin marks on the model surface or tabs for the ejector pins to contact so as to avoid ejector pin marks on the model surface?

is there another way of removing mouldings from castings that doesn’t use either method?

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13 hours ago, chrish said:

Not trying to start something but you seem to be saying modern kits shouldn’t have ejector pin marks on the model surface or tabs for the ejector pins to contact so as to avoid ejector pin marks on the model surface?

is there another way of removing mouldings from castings that doesn’t use either method?

 

I've obviously not been at all clear.. oh that makes a change!! NOT!!

 

I am trying to say that, in my opinion, manufacturers should try to aviod EPM's on visible surfaces by using the tab type, or indeed adding sprue across openings with an ejector pin on it, much like WNW do.

 

The funny part for me with the Lanc kit is that there are about a million pads on the fuselage halves, there are pads on other parts too, but on some parts, the bomb bay sidewalls for example, there are EPM's and external pads.

In this post I refer to EPM's as the marks on the model surface, and I refer to pads as the external ones off the part but attached via sprue.

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Can I just chime in here? 

 

In my honest opinion, the addition of the blisters is a non issue. They are provided as a separate option, as i believe some of the early Lancaster 1's didnt have them, some later had one, some subsequently had 2. 

 

There is ZERO drilling required when adding the blisters as once attached you cant even tell the clear part is "double glazed", such is the clarity of the parts. For anyone interested, I overcame the problem by dipping the canopy in Klear likewise the blisters. Once dry I offered up the blisters then using a cocktail stick, dripped some more Klear onto the blisters. This ran round the blister effectively melting the dried klear and securing the blister to the canopy once dry. 

 

Not the best picture i know, but the double glazing is hardly noticeable. Look at the far blister in the image below.

 

46084243082_17bca22d79_b.jpg

 

As far as the ejector pin marks in the bomb bay, another non issue as they are positioned so far up the bomb bay doors and are so shallow, they are unnoticeable. likewise the marks in the bomb bay itself. Shallow, and once painted black not noticeable, more so with the bomb load in position. Im not saying you cant see them but unless you are displaying the aircraft upside dow, spending time correcting these would in my book, be a waste of time. 

 

46134091681_928e3441bd_b.jpg

 

Lack of detail at wing root?  make ones own mind up as to whether it spoils the model. 

 

46084226302_9dc69aecc7_b.jpg

 

 

 

The moulding pads come off cleanly and with a little smoothing work the fuse halves go together well. Zero filler was used in this build. Honestly! 

 

This was a test shot and without the PE set, but as far as I am concerned, the kit exceeded my expectations of exactly what a test shot is. The kit itself i am sure exceeds even this. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Phartycr0c
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2 hours ago, Phartycr0c said:

Can I just chime in here? 

 

In my honest opinion, the addition of the blisters is a non issue. They are provided as a separate option, as i believe some of the early Lancaster 1's didnt have them, some later had one, some subsequently had 2. 

 

There is ZERO drilling required when adding the blisters as once attached you cant even tell the clear part is "double glazed", such is the clarity of the parts. For anyone interested, I overcame the problem by dipping the canopy in Klear likewise the blisters. Once dry I offered up the blisters then using a cocktail stick, dripped some more Klear onto the blisters. This ran round the blister effectively melting the dried klear and securing the blister to the canopy once dry. 

 

Not the best picture i know, but the double glazing is hardly noticeable. Look at the far blister in the image below.

 

 

 

As far as the ejector pin marks in the bomb bay, another non issue as they are positioned so far up the bomb bay doors and are so shallow, they are unnoticeable. likewise the marks in the bomb bay itself. Shallow, and once painted black not noticeable, more so with the bomb load in position. Im not saying you cant see them but unless you are displaying the aircraft upside dow, spending time correcting these would in my book, be a waste of time. 

 

 

 

Lack of detail at wing root?  make ones own mind up as to whether it spoils the model. 

 

 

 

 

 

The moulding pads come off cleanly and with a little smoothing work the fuse halves go together well. Zero filler was used in this build. Honestly! 

 

This was a test shot and without the PE set, but as far as I am concerned, the kit exceeded my expectations of exactly what a test shot is. The kit itself i am sure exceeds even this. 

 

 

 

 

I saw this at Telford last month and it's totally blown me away. I was on the verge of committing to the WNW version next year, but have now placed an order for this. 

My rationale for buying...

Is it huge? Check

Will it look like a Lanc' when it's finished? Check

Will minor glitches/inaccuracies bother me? Not in the slightest.

Will it be value for money? I'll get approx 2 years worth of building and painting out of it so, yes, it's worth every penny I will shell it on it. 

Postie, stop fooling around with holidays and get my model here NOW! :)

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5 hours ago, Phartycr0c said:

Can I just chime in here? 

 

In my honest opinion, the addition of the blisters is a non issue. They are provided as a separate option, as i believe some of the early Lancaster 1's didnt have them, some later had one, some subsequently had 2. 

 

There is ZERO drilling required when adding the blisters as once attached you cant even tell the clear part is "double glazed", such is the clarity of the parts. For anyone interested, I overcame the problem by dipping the canopy in Klear likewise the blisters. Once dry I offered up the blisters then using a cocktail stick, dripped some more Klear onto the blisters. This ran round the blister effectively melting the dried klear and securing the blister to the canopy once dry. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello Phartycroc.

Thanks for posting those pics. I agree, those teardrops do look good, thanks for posting the method you used to affix them. Of course, the benefit in doing it this way that you havent mentioned is that they can easily be removed if you %£$& it up. Please remind me.. what is used to remove future from clear parts. I will also agree, as mentioned in my review, those clear parts are some of the clearest I've ever seen!!

 

I will however, "wait and see" on those EPM's?? I hate the bloody things, and probably have a mental issue with them??:(:( As I mentioned in my review, they'll not be easy to remove, and they shouldn't be there in the first place. HKM have shown what they are capable of.. this kit reflects both ends of the scale in my opinion. Still, whinging over.. it is a beautiful kit and I am really looking forward to building the cockpit. Yes.. just the cockpit!!Then we'll take it from there....

 

Thanks again for posting those lovely pics. May I ask.. how much of an issue was the fit between front and rear fuse sections? Can the nose turret be removed even after the fairing has been fitted over the top of it?

Edited by Gloucester Nige
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It just seems to me that there are some who just 'have to have b$%ch' about something, no matter how small or insignificant. Claims of inaccuracies with no evidence, going on about pin marks which as I said previously are so shallow that they can't be seen with certain light directions. 
Well the bottom line is HKM have sold out of the first production run with the clear fuselage parts, so whine on if you must....... 

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I took a look at the bomb bay roof in my kit and they're proud of the surface. To me, this actually makes them easier to deal with versus having to fill them in and then sand them down.

 

At the same time, I just purchased a new tool from Gunze called the Mr. Scraper. According to the packaging, it's designed to remove seams and irregularities where it's not possible to get a piece of sandpaper.

 

IMG_20181229_215033-L.jpg

 

IMG_20181229_213419-L.jpg

 

I decided to try it out. You can see the results on the upper row.

 

IMG_20181229_214611-L.jpg

I was even able to remove the pin mark in the upper left corner too. 

IMG_20181229_214841-L.jpg

 

You could probably get similar results with a small chisel but I'm happy with it. 

 

Carl

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3 hours ago, Gloucester Nige said:

 

Hello Phartycroc.

Thanks for posting those pics. I agree, those teardrops do look good, thanks for posting the method you used to affix them. Of course, the benefit in doing it this way that you havent mentioned is that they can easily be removed if you %£$& it up. Please remind me.. what is used to remove future from clear parts. I will also agree, as mentioned in my review, those clear parts are some of the clearest I've ever seen!!

 

I will however, "wait and see" on those EPM's?? I hate the bloody things, and probably have a mental issue with them??:(:( As I mentioned in my review, they'll not be easy to remove, and they shouldn't be there in the first place. HKM have shown what they are capable of.. this kit reflects both ends of the scale in my opinion. Still, whinging over.. it is a beautiful kit and I am really looking forward to building the cockpit. Yes.. just the cockpit!!Then we'll take it from there....

 

Thanks again for posting those lovely pics. May I ask.. how much of an issue was the fit between front and rear fuse sections? Can the nose turret be removed even after the fairing has been fitted over the top of it?

Hot water works well too.

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Hi Nige, 

 

As  Juggernut and mgunns have said, both hot water and ammonia will easily dissolve klear. allowing mistakes to be corrected. 

 

In terms of EPM's its each to his own on this one, i am not particularly bothered by them unless of course they are glaringly obvious and can easilly be seen, That said, I was "up against it" to get the Lanc done for Telford so couldnt really spend too much time correcting them.

 

The front to rear fuselage joint again, is really very good. it has been well thought out by HK in terms of engineering and tolerance. The photo below shows the join of the clear part to the normal part (just behind where "wavy painted " the camo.

 

32263038818_58fd3de9a8_b.jpg

 

the image below shows the port side joint. It is the joint immediately behind the observation blister.  It interlaces with the wing root connector. There is plenty of strength in this joint. 

 

45222888935_e40077a5f8_b.jpg

 

I would suggest following the instructions in connecting front to rear before joining the fuse halves as attempting to join a complete front to complete rear is waaaaay too much of a faff (if that makes sense) 

 

The font turret is captive when the top faring is secured. Again that said it doesnt present too much of a problem by getting in the way. 

 

One other point, the gun barrels are Master raf Brownings, not the kit parts. 

Edited by Phartycr0c
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