Juggernut

I still have a bottle of Pledge (aka Future) but I've read this stuff is just as good and is available at places like Home Depot, Walmart, etc.: Quick Shine Multi-Floor Finish

Andy's Hobby Headquarters is releasing two such vehicles, the M10, and the Achilles. M10 M10 IIc Achilles They just happen to be made by Takom (as you can clearly see on the box at the above links).

Too large for my available space.... As good as the price is, I'll have to pass.

Yeah, I'd say that's dirty pool too.

Happy Birthday! I haven't been onsite much today and didn't notice until now. I have been accused (by my lovely wife) of having selective hearing and vision.

Just got this book. It's amazing! Well done and kudos to both authors! I was a little impatient waiting for it to arrive from Spain but it was here within a two weeks (about 10 days to PA).

Do these help? \ REFERENCE: Air Corps Library, F4U Corsair Aircraft Drawing Repository, Accessed 9-10-2023 @ 13:40 EDT.

Well, I can't directly answer your question as I've never built the Trumpeter kit but try this: 1. Securely tape the fuselage halves together with the appropriate components in place. 2. Try and insert the turret after the fuselage halves are taped together. Either way, you'll know the answer.

There’s a bunch of differences between the D-15 and D-20 and D-25. Just from recollection the battery gets relocated from behind the pilot to under the engine cowl with a corresponding air scoop on the lower left side of the fuselage/ engine cowl (which is not present in the photo above) I think the battery may have been moved during the -30 NA production run but not entirely sure; 44-73060 is definitely a P-51D-25 NA and it is definitely not relocated (no scoop in the above photo). A P-51D-25 NA would have zero length rocket rails under each wing. I think the AN/APG-13 tail warning radar was standardized in the D-20/25 series. Drop tank fuel line entry point were moved from alongside the rack to in front of the rack. Painting of the wheel wells became more standardized on the D-20/25 than was prior (CRC-359-1 - interior coating of zinc chromate primer to all interior metal surfaces (O'Leary pg 160)). I think the hydraulic oil dip stick access panel was added in front of the windscreen with the D-20. K-14 "Ace Maker" gunsight standardized on and after P-51D-20 NA (with corresponding throttle lever change to incorporate pipper adjustable knob). Message bag (inside the cockpit) was deleted during P-51D-20 production run. Gun camera cover introduced at P-51D-20 and subsequent. Access panels on the engine cowls changed shapes (no longer identical size or shape) sometime during that period. There are others changes that may or may not be visible and while I’ve done my best from memory, some of these changes I’ve mentioned need to be corroborated. If I get the opportunity, I’ll have a look at my Mustang Manufacturing book (O’Leary) and see what he says changed.

Here's a link to a PDF of VMF-312's history: VMF-312 History

Can’t answer which Trumpeter kit is better but yes, AMS has been picked up by BigTim. Link below

Nice! Mine’s just about finished too.

Is this book available in the U.S. or is it going to be? I'm keen on getting it but shipping across the pond isn't in the cards.

Fantastic rendition John! Great to see the long-nose Tony done up so nicely.

Hey Kev, I built the Revell Bf109G-10 and from what I remember, this is what I used for aftermarket: Barracudacast Bf109G seat without belts Barracudacast Bf109G wheels (large tires - to accompany the large bulges on the wings) Synthetic Ordnance Works (Damian), Revell Bf109G main landing gear struts. Barracudacast Bf109G Prop spinner and blades (the kit one is a bit "off") Barracudacast Bf109G-10 Supercharger air intake, exhausts (also comes with hollow scoops for the vents on the nose) Quinta Studios Revell Bf109G-10 cockpit set HGW Bf109G-10 seat harness The build was very straight forward but there are a some sticking points that might have been self induced but here they are: 1. Put the tailwheel in the forwardmost hole in the lower fuseage wall. If you don't, it'll sit angled like the G-6 wheel. You may have to open the hole up as if memory serves, it was flashed over. 2. The clear part for the fuselage antenna (near the tail on the left fuselage part). I had to enlarge the hole in my kit to make the piece fit. I may have installed it incorrectly but I dont' think so. 3. If you haven't glued the top wings together yet, glue the inside top of each wing to the fuselage before you install the outer and bottom wing pieces. It just seemed to work better for me and eliminated any nasty gaps. 4. My kit suffered from some sink marks on the top of the Erla cowl. i had to fill those with Milliput. 5. If you use the large wheel well bulges, my kit had sink marks around the circular wheel well roof (on the outside of the bulge. Again, Milliput to the rescue. 6. My kit suffered from some asymmetrical landing gear rake. That could've been self-induced and it took me some effort to install them correctly. Like Thunnus, I riveted my kit and had a helluva time painting it (that was definitely caused by my choice of paints) but eventually got it done. Somewhere on the Ready for Inspection forum, it resides. Overall, I liked the kit and the aftermarket helped the look immensely.

From the above linked article: The pilot, listed as Dan Filer.... I wonder if that guy is Pete's buddy?

Nice job! You're braver than I am with that two-tone camouflage. I have this very kit at about 80% complete. I'm getting ready to spray the trim on the tails. Mine will be VF-111 Sundowners circa 1982 overall gull grey. How'd you like those decals on the missiles? Sheesh, there were more decals on those missiles than on some entire aircraft models. I had to use Solvaset to make them behave. Dipped them in Future (Pledge) to overcoat them with gloss. I had never done that before and it came out ok. I figured if it works for canopies, why not missiles?

Yeah, I'll wait until they (IPMS TIdewater or the National Committee) open the "official" announcement for the 2025 venue, then I'll book hoping to get the "IPMS Convention Rate" which will most likely be less expensive than not.

I can certainly relate to that... I'm starting to get the financial wheels turning for a 2025 Nats attendance. Can't go in 2024; too far for my old-ass to drive (After Las Vegas, I told myself that if I can't drive to a Nationals, I'm not going. Primarily because the cost of shipping "acquisitions" back home is prohibitive). Hampton, VA, on the other hand, is well within my driving abilities. With the upcoming Border Dambuster and the 2025 Nationals, I have to open a new savings account and siphon money now or like you, I won't be going. Still haven't totally committed myself to a Border Dambuster (it's really HUGE [and expensive]) but I'll be damned if I'm going to miss a National convention that's in my "range". PS: I would definitely do Las Vegas again even if it means I can't purchase any models while there (or enter any). Hey, it's VEGAS Baby!

Nohara, S. (1999), Aero detail 24, nakajima ki-84 hayate "frank", Dai Nippon Kaiga publishing, Tokyo Mikesh, R. (2000), Japanese aircraft interiors 1940-1945, Monogram Aviation Publications,MA. Bueschel, R. (1997), Nakajima ki-84a/b hayate in japanese army air force service, Schiffer Publishing, PA Famous Airplanes of the World No. 19Army Type 4 Fighter "Hayate" Bunrin Do Co. Ltd. (no other publication information can be found - Japanese text only) The Maru Mechanic No. 33 Nakajima Army Type 4 Fighter "Hayate" (Ki-84" (Japanese text only) You may have difficulty sourcing several, if not all, of the above titles and the Mikesh text, even if available, will cost a small fortune to acquire. These are the only references I know of on the Ki-84 but there may be a Model Art reference on it and I think there's a Kagero book on it as well. I cannot speak to the information available within either but Model Art is normally very well detailed (may or may not have English text to accompany the Japanese). There may well be others and if so, someone will post them.

Oh boy.... I'm gonna do some financial magic and hopefully get one of these guys. THIS is the version I've been waiting for.

Aren't there flare launch tubes shown in the instructions? I'd imagine those panel lines are indeed meant for flares.

Well now, for me, the best news to come out of the 2023 IPMS National Convention is that in 2025, it will be held in Virginia Beach, VA! I know that’s not great news for some of us but I’m all in! I can drive there in about 4-5 hours. I think the dates are August 6-9, 2025… Somehow I think the theme (or one of them) will be related to the events that took place between those dates in 1945. We’ll have to wait and see. Time to set up a 2025 Nationals savings stash so I’ll be able to run amuck in the vendor room. UPDATE: I’ve been informed that the convention is in Hampton, VA rather than Virginia Beach. That’s even closer so that’s a plus.

Saw that and wondered if you were acquainted with the pilot of that particular aircraft. Apparently past V1, wonder if the pilot declared an emergency or if he just notified ATC he lost the canopy and flew the pattern to land the aircraft? I haven’t read about any NTSB incident reports but that doesn’t mean much. Since you have one, is the canopy jettisonable? I’d imagine it would be if there are bang seats installed or do the seats have canopy piercers?

Those are indeed great and will serve for a long, long time. I had two.... Having said that, after a few years, the plastic "gripster" portion of one of mine started cracking where the metal end is that holds the blade.... First I disassembled it, swapped the plastic part, end-for-end and reassembled. I then had to wrap aluminum tape around the cracked portion to keep it from splitting more. Finally, I had to resort to discarding it because both ends became cracked and the knife just wouldn't hold tight any longer (meaning the blade would not be held securely). I suppose I could've looked around for a tube of the same ID/OD and replaced it but that's too much work for what these cost. I still have one more that I faithfully use but when it finally fails, I'll go back to the tried-and-true, plain old X-Acto #1 handle (a few of which have lasted me decades without fail).