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1/32 Hasegawa Bf109K-4 Weisse 8


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Thanks guys!  Got a lot done this weekend!


Two coats of MIG Scratches Effect wasn't enough to get good chipping results.  The Mr Hobby Aqueous over the metal was extremely stubborn and I had to use a toothpick to get most of the chips, which lead to a less than natural effect.  Oh well... I can work with it and augment it later with sponge chipping and colored pencils.


I gave the model a gloss coat (Alclad Aqua Gloss).  Removing the masks to check out the landing gear wells.


I thinned the Alclad Aqua Gloss with Mr Leveling Thinner and it had a funky effect on chipping area at the port wing root.  Gonna have to fix that when the gloss dries.

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On 5/18/2019 at 1:08 AM, Thunnus said:

Thanks for checking in guys!  I appreciate the input!

The joint between the forward and rear fuselage parts has been cleaned up on both halves.  I've re-scribed the panel line too.  I'm going to leave it there for now until I resolve the canopy situation.


Here's the canopy frame folded but not yet glued. It's reasonably close but I don't think this is going to cut it.


Gluing down the top of the canopy to the side frames improves things but it's just not square enough to sit flush.  And being a delicate metal frame, it's hard to make adjustments without throwing other areas off.  I think this is beyond my pay grade.


Here is the kit canopy as a comparison.  I'm thinking that I can round off the top corners of the rear canopy and the fuselage from the canopy to about one panel line back.  And then polish up the canopy afterwards.


For back-up, I have a copy of the Revell G-10 canopy that I might be able to use.  It is narrower at the base but I think I can use some hot water and coax it a little wider just in case something goes wrong with the Hasegawa canopy.  I'll set aside the metal canopy frame for now.


I've added an actuator to the rear of the oil cooler housing.


Hello from Bavaria


I am following this threat with great intrest...found it while searching for material for my Revell/AMUR Reaver G-6AS build. I also do have a Hasegawa/Revell k-4 in my stash and I already did the modification of the rear fuselage. I glued the halfs togther like you did and I will be using the 2nd Erla canopy of the Revell G-10 kit for it. Fits very good and even better when positioned opened. With the Revell kits being cheap it might also be an option to use the larger wheel buldges...




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Thank you for that fascinating photograph, Antonio!  I don't think I'll be able to replicate that type of chipping at the wing roots with this build but it certainly gives one inspiration for the future.  Hairspray chipping has its positives but I'm not able to achieve consistency with this method.  When it works, it looks good but once the paint gives way to bigger and bigger chips, the effect is easily lost.  Plus there is some physical degradation in the paint finish that can occur and those are hard frustratingly hard to correct.  Paint removal using Micromesh is one way to replicate the effects shown in the photo and I may have to look at this further... maybe on my Corsair build?

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21 hours ago, LSP_Ray said:

Hmmm...Is the Aqua gloss water or lacquer based? Strange what it did.

Looking good, though; I don't think that will be a hard fix.


I believe it is a water-based acrylic.  I've used Aqua Gloss thinned with iso alcohol, Tamiya Lacquer Thinner and Mr Leveling Thinner.  Although I get a nice smooth finish with MLT, I've noticed a few strange things when using it.  I think it is a "hotter" thinner than the others and seems to cut into the acrylic paint a bit.  I've had some pre-shading leak through the top camo coat when sealing it with MLT-thinned Aqua Gloss, especially if it is an especially thin coat.

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The MLT might be the problem. I had a similar thing happen when I used MIG washes on a KV-1 painted with Tamiya acrylics. Turns out the enamel thinner used in the washes is pretty hot. Of course, it didn't happen on the test scrap I tried it on first with the same paints!

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