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Everything posted by Gazzas

  1. That would be a shame. This is my first ZM kit and I admit I was expecting high quality. And it is a high quality kit, though with questionable design philosophy on the tail. Otherwise, I’m just the first guy paving the way in my own bumbling manner.
  2. Thank you, Reimund. I have some UV gel. But I have always been afraid to touch it before I activate it.
  3. Guys... Thank you for the kind words and super support. It's time to consider the canopy. To check it for fit and to begin clean up. There are a lot of sprue gates and ejector pin tabs. But that just makes for higher quality parts. I was so afraid of chipping or cracking, that I snipped them from the sprue as far away as was practical, and then sanded them down with my electric-toothbrush sander. (the best tool tip I ever got) Fit on the left: Not bad. Fit on the right: Better... Fit in the middle: Meh. What's you favorite filler around the canopy? This is the first time that any 109 model I have built has a back wall to the canopy glass as well as the cockpit lights. You may notice that I accidentally broke and then repaired this part. And... and... the armored windscreen is a separate part. This is the fit of the early hood. The antenna mast will be attached to your fuselage if you use this one. The parts are thin with some flex. Good thing I added them seat belts... the view is nice. A second shot for your viewing pleasure... OK... one more.... I... and all of you Hartmann builders will be using this later canopy. The antenna mast will be attached to it. ... oh... and you have to drill a hole for the mast. There are generous tabs representing the canopy hinges. The armored head protection fits firmly into significant recesses. I can't tell you how many 109's and 190's I've built where getting the head armor into the correct position was a chore. Yes, I did wash my hands after work today. There is some distortion in the armored glass. But I ain't gonna worry about it. The Revi reflector sight. I think those two pieces with the arrows by them are for the canopy lights... I can't seem to find them in the directions. More research is required. Finally... a super-sized gun sight. Get our your Novus kit to polish those teenie-weenie little panes. That is all for now. There are canopy masks in the kit.
  4. I can’t take credit. I borrowed it from Jeremy Clarkson of Top Gear.
  5. Love the scratch building. The title, though... I can't but think of triangular topiary.
  6. Looks great, Chris! Nice technique for those wing holes.
  7. No... the current error without fixing sticks out about a scale inch or more at both front and rear ends/
  8. As someone who is building this kit, the error at it's worst represents over 25mm in scale on each side. When I buy this kit again... and I will... I'll have the foreknowledge to deal with it. Next time, I'll turn the two-piece stabilizer into two Two-piece stabilizers and bring the halves closer together after shaving the excess from the inside. I will also put fillets into the vertical fin to make it clean and pretty. It's a great kit. Not WNW great... but the best looking 109G of what is really a poor field in 1/32 scale. It's a shame Tamiya never made one.
  9. Do you like sharp railing edges? I certainly do. But ZM didn't take this opportunity to ensure your flaps and ailerons were molded that way. They did on the rudder and elevators. In my limited experience, the only company that molds overlaps on the trailing edges of the main wings is ICM in their 1/48 lines. I haven't done any ICM in 1/32, yet. These are test shots after filing and sanding the flaps and ailerons. Obviously getting the taper right isn't easy if you want to preserve molded-in detail. And another interesting positive feature... The brake lines are glued to the wheel well covers instead of the LG legs. Happy modelling!
  10. This inspires me to get the kit... if I can find it.
  11. Nice work on that fairing, Craig. One of the hardest parts on any plane.
  12. Some things you can fix and some are too difficult. For instance, I can't scribe straight lines very well. So, Trench-like panel lines, like the ones on the F-104, are things I dread.
  13. The only thing that scares me is how they may Italerize it.
  14. Goodmorning, Campers! Work continues. Surface work and final joins of some panels. There were a few sink marks. Since I hate waiting for Mr. surfacer and other hot putties to dry, I added gouges giving black CA something to hold on to. A spritz of activator, and then sanding. I will say that I do love some things about this kit. I have perfect dorsal and ventral seams. Something I can never do on my own. But since all of the cement holding the halves together is on the internal frames, there is no rounded glue joint requiring scribing. Below, you'll notice a segmented line of black CA between the oil cooler ring and forward edge of the cowling. The reason is because the profile of the cowling didn't mate up neatly with the oil cooler ring. The problem was that I needed to push the cowling out to mate neatly with the cooler ring. Fortunately, I have some filo files that are curved at the ends. I was able to insert them though a gap in the top of the oil cooler and apply pressure and a few drops of black CA. Perhaps if I put all of the engine plumbing in, this might not have been necessary. YMMV. I have also been sanding the textured surface of the model.
  15. I disagree. The BoB trilogy will always be more famous than anything else, if, simply for the reason that it is immortalized in film. You aren't going to get orders from the world market with a niche model that will sell like hotcakes in NZ. Decal sets for BoB aces would make all three sell even better.
  16. I just hope they sell enough to continue with operations. Spit 1, Hurri 1, 109E3 (shush you!) should be a good leap out of the gate. I like/liked the idea of having a quality model company just across the Tasman.
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