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Out2gtcha

"The Star of Africa" - Hans-Joachim Marseille's Do-335 A-2/Trop - Yellow 14 - FINISHED!

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After many hours of tweaking I got to a place I liked. Its far from perfect, and the pre-shading is still quite visible (later to be reduced in starkness when the RLM 80 spots are added) but I like the look.

I was going for a worn, used faded look, but not really a chipped up look, although I do plan on adding some very mild chipping using a silver pencil. I took some of the RLM 79 and mixed in some white, and some extra thinner, and turned the PSI on the compressor down to sub 5 lbs, and shot some fading on.

This fading was only applied on the horizontal surfaces, including the wings and top of the fuselage, then later blended in with more straight 79. Again, harder to tell what it really looks like IRL from pics. Very hard to capture the nature of how it really looks:

 

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Flying surfaces also appear different in pics, and they seem much lighter in the pictures than they are IRL:

 

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I peeked just a tad bit under the masking last night, and if that is any indication I think the string worked really well, holding a very consistent edge. The only down side/drawback to it, is unlike blu tack that is itself sticky, and holds to the model, string has to be connected via the strip of tape, so holding your airbrush at a 90 deg angle to he work at ALL times was a must.

 

Also had to be very careful of not shooting down into that space with the airbrush from above while painting the upper surfaces. In this case the tape over the rear exhaust was the main issue, but from what I've seen I seemed to have dodged that mostly (I hope

 

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Thanks guys.

 

I think it's my crappy cell camera Kev. Its a lot more mustardy/sandy IRL.  I also threw a lot of different colors to it too that may effect it in pics.

Honestly neither the 78 or 79 looks in pics like it does in person.

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6 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

       Again, harder to tell what it really looks like IRL from pics. Very hard to capture the nature of how it really looks:

 

Always the case.  Looking good Brian  :speak_cool:

 

 

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Thank you gentlemen................

 

  K1 is right, the RLM 79 looks way too yellow in pics,  especially after seeing my paint test bed Zero with actual yellow on it, and my sandgelb next to it...............IRL, they look like they should; sand and yellow.............via my camera lens, you can see how yellow it looks.

 

Youll have to trust me, is does NOT look this yellow in person!    Did some initial testing with some colored pencils and RLM 80 spots:

 

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Im not too happy with my placement or overall shape of the spots, but the proof of concept test did prove to me that they can be hand sprayed without issue. 

Now I just have to perfect the shape and spacing of the spots.

 

 

 

 

On to the unmasking / unavailing! 

It really looks cool IMHO in person (other than yes, looking too yellow in pics) and the string trick worked REALLY well for masking.

 

However, I did make one big blunder....................................

I'll give you 21 guesses.   Im thinking you will only need 1!
 

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I stupidly picked matching sides of the elevators when painting them.  Shame on me...............guess Ill have to live with the physical differences between the elevators, and just repaint the starboard one.

 

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Well, back to the paint booth! 

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Looks pretty yellow, but I believe you. A possible solution: does your camera have a white balance adjustment? My Canon lets you take a pic of a white sheet and use that to reset its settings to make colors more correct. Or, if you are using Adobe Photoshop, you can shift the colors to more real life tone.

The pre-shading looks like it is working, though.

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That's part of the issue Ray, it's just a crappy cellphone camera.

 

I've got a really nice nearly brand new Nikon D3400 that I have barely even used.......I have only long distance zoom lenses and don't have any close up ones. I almost have to stand outside the model room to even get the photo booth in the picture.

 

I know the  phone camera is on the fritz anyway since if I use a straight white background, it will put tan lines across the while screen.

 

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9 hours ago, Out2gtcha said:

That's part of the issue Ray, it's just a crappy cellphone camera.

 

I've got a really nice nearly brand new Nikon D3400 that I have barely even used.......I have only long distance zoom lenses and don't have any close up ones. I almost have to stand outside the model room to even get the photo booth in the picture. 

 

I know the  phone camera is on the fritz anyway since if I use a straight white background, it will put tan lines across the while screen.

 

I can only recommend to get a good macro lens for your DSLR!
Using one makes your life a lot easier and adjusting the pictures in photoshop/lightroom is a must!

I'm a Canon guy so I got a 60mm macro lens for a good price on ebay but I'm not sure about a Nikon equivalent.

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Considering that they are cellphone photos they are pretty good, and I bet the fading looks better in real life than it does in the photos, my camera does not like green and I always have to adjust the photos before posting them.

Aside from the technicalities of taking photos I think it looks great.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

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Thanks guys. I took a couple of pics outside of the photobooth yesterday with some yellows in the pics to see how it looked in different lighting.

 

It really is amazing how much lighting can change the look of paint. These 4 pics are probably a better barometer of what the color actually looks like. These 4 were taken on the bench under the workshops main lighting but minimal spot lights :

 

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This one has NO lights other than the ceiling lights on it, and although a bit dark, is probably more accurate than the rest:

 

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Got all flying surfaces assembled in prep for the coming leopard spots. I goofed on a couple of spots, and had to repaint some parts of the flying surfaces.

After that small repaint, I put everything back together under full spotlight lighting & you can see how even the desk lamps bring the yellow in:

 

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I've got a plan for the spots, to keep them with the right shape, and spacing I want while still maintaining the hand sprayed appearance.

 

Cheers!

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