themongoose Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 I tried a search but if something is out here i must have selected poor key words lol. Below is the photoetch i need to glue to the inside edge of the canopy on my F-4. What can i use that will hold it without fogging up the clear plastic? Uncarina 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 I use superglue, never had an issue with fogging. LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 PVA, however if youve 'kleared' the canopy you can use CA i use the Delux, it dries quick and comes with a tiny nozzle add on LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themongoose Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 No future or anything to klear the canopy has been done. It sounds like I should go the pva route. Will have to stop at the LHS tomorrow. LSP_K2 and Mark M 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 (edited) Future or the equivalent will also work as a glue. Plus dries clear. Cheers, Tom Edited April 20, 2017 by Uncarina Mark M and CANicoll 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 I use Gator Grip Glue. strong, yet slightly flexible bond. CharleyGnarlyP290, Mark M, phantomdriver and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 Gator Grip or Micro Kristal Klear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 might find PVA cheaper at your hardware store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 I try as much as possible to avoid using superglue with photo-etched parts. It cures too fast with no time for adjustment, you need to have the steadiness-of-hand and rapidity of an olympic sharpshooter to get the part where you need it in the time given. I prefer PVA-type glues such as those mentioned above. One of my favourites is Pacer Formula 560. When large folded parts need to be joined I use tiny drops of superglue to "tack" parts together and then secure the joint with the PVA-type glue or Future/Klear (run it along the joint with a brush). For applying flat parts on flat surfaces like that, by far the best is Klear/Future/Pledge or whatever it is called nowadays. It dries clear, hard as nails and it allows for some repositioning. Radu nmayhew, Rick Griewski and Uncarina 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottsGT Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 I keep a bottle of RC-56 around for things like this. It's sold to the RC airplane guys to glue canopies down. It's like Elmers, but thicker and seems to hold things in place better while curing. LHS should stock it if they support the RC airplane guys. CANicoll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red Dog Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 (edited) Regular Superglue (cyanocrylate) that you buy in stores may fog transparent plastic. but it is easily avoided if you let the vapor from the superglue evacuate away from the plastic part. For instance storing it upside down while the glue sets. the plastic will fog if a lot of superglue was used and vapor are trapped for a long time on the plastic part. Some specific cyanocrylate superglue (brand 21) for instance doesn't fog at all, even for longer contact with the plastic. And they have a slow drying cyano which makes it perfect for PE work. No affiliation with the company, just a happy user of the product http://italienstylerenov.com/english/ I tried to use gator as well, but the glue is too thick (although i diluted it with water) and it doesn't get stored very well. It ages bad with time becoming more and more dense. I still use it as well but i find it hard to work clean with it. Edited April 20, 2017 by red Dog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesHatch Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 No one's heard of odourless/non-fuming CA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 If you can find it, G-S Hypo Cement from Micro-Mark is very useful but they call it Watch Crystal Cement. It is clear, more than a bit gooey so it sticks and stays, but is not an instant adhesion so you have time to move things around a bit. But once it dries, it is rock-hard. Watch Crystal Cement For Clear Contoured PlasticThis special cement with needle point applicator is ideal for cementing clear contoured plastic canopies and windshields on airplane and car models. Can also be used on many other model assembly projects. Cement dries crystal clear and won't attack plastic. Uncured cement cleans up easily with ordinary rubbing alcohol. Special needle point applicator tip makes precise placement easy. Wire-in-cap keeps applicator free flowing. Cures to the touch in 15 minutes. Two 1/3 oz. tubes. $9.95USD sandokan and Big Texan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Texan Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 (edited) Watch crystal cement works well. Dries clear and you never have to worry about fogging. Yep, I second CANicoll on this fellars. A tube will last a long time! Edited April 20, 2017 by Big Texan CANicoll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 Thanks Big Texan! I actually used it last night to attach the clear bits to a HellCat I'm building in 1/72, esp the two pieces behind the cockpit. I wanted something pretty sturdy to hold up to the masking. I've had my tube at least 7 years; its all crinkled up, but the top keeps it fresh. Chris Big Texan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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